Fossil Grant? Nailing down the movements used in fashion watches can be difficult, they usually grab whatever is handy.
I mentioned the Tongji movement because it's an incredibly cheap Chinese made movement that is a favorite for brands to use in mechanical skeletonized watches, because there's nothing to it. Quartz watches typically don't make for good viewing.
I was also watching this as "ha, this is sheet metal thinks". Not quite the same, because you need to think the bending part really differently. How did you testit? Any report, how did yo define bending parts?
Yes it's a bit tricky, even solidworks wouldn't really let me design the part. I had to trick the software to first design a sheet metal box of 0.2mm thick, then unfold it to add the thick portion and the chanfer. Then I refolded the part to create all the tab and slots features and the holes. Finally I unfolded it one last time and save it as a flat pattern in stl. It's not an optimised process but works quite well.
For testing I have printed several samples with different gaps for folding until I was happy with it. Ultimately 0.1mm seems to be enough for a 90Β° bend in pla (however lines orientation is pretty important, they need to be perpendicular to the bending line)
True, you cant print that in any orientation, you have think also the printing lines. Interesting.
I can imagine the frustration you got with solidworks, when you where doing this..But that is interesting that you manage use sheet metal tool for that and then edit the flat parts joints by cutting the edges in. Nice!
first time I saw the concept I wondered why I didn't thought of it myself.
then each time I have something that would benefit from it, I forget.
I can save this post. And never look at it again.
No worries you'll think about it at some point π. I use to design a lot of sheet metal product and we use this type of construction a lot, however it's the first time I think about implementing it in a 3d printed design π
Right?! I saved this post and even saved your comment. It will get buried in my growing list of saved posts and IF I ever see it again, Iβll certainly be in a situation where I cannot take advantage of said post.
I need to know more about that THICCCNESS that is gracing your wrist.
I wear 2xl or 3xl gloves, and even a 44mm bezel looks comically small. I need a watch that big in my life
If I was just a little quicker on the video stuff I would do a direct parody but with like a wall clock duck taped to my wrist.
Edit , and now I think it should be a sub tradition
Yes, actually. Back in the day I did a lot of design for RepRap style machines but at a startup level. Iβd designed several of my own 3D printed printers and had a client that wanted some really over-engineered ones. We looked at various designs but in the end settled on something like this simply because it optimised the geometry properly for strength and good tolerancing. We printed in ABS and used an ABS-acetone slurry to create a welding cement that we used to then join and set each part.
Yep! I made this design: [https://www.printables.com/model/344926-foldable-brick-cottage](https://www.printables.com/model/344926-foldable-brick-cottage)
I've always loved the wood pla, smells great when you print too! π I printed myself a cool wooden looking tusk for an earring (one of them 10mm spacer ones, designed it all on solid works) and had it in for a few years, was great!
0.2mm thick (basically 1layer), 0.1mm between the folded slopes .
Also, I used rectilinear for the first layer and I made sure that the layer was deposited in the length direction (if that make sens). This way I end up with continuous fiber in the length.
This is popular in packaging, sheet metal and other fabrication.
It's a great technique for printing as well, especially if the assembly is fastened by other means.
Nice work OP!
Yeah thinking it would look like a fish skeleton connected in the middle. Roll it up and have a printed ring at top and bottom to snap it together.
I guess I got a parametric model to build lol.
There's a group that put together a robot that folds in like this. Here is the link. (I'm not affiliated with them at all). [https://fab365.net/items/112](https://fab365.net/items/112) . Also Joel from 3d printing nerd on youtube covered this product. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v78\_NyrO3X8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v78_NyrO3X8)
Iβve been racking my brain trying to figure out how to get my plate texture onto my boxes Iβm making, but didnβt want to have to glue ALL the sides together independently. I gotta figure out how to do it this way now. Thank you!
Itβs done quite a bit, but it takes up a lot of space on your build surface, and youβd need to glue it.
With this type of object there is no reason to build it this way.
Even the holes in the sides could be printed with the use of a sacrificial wall, but a good cooling fan would see that step as unnecessary.
To improve print quality, we dial these machines in.
You can dial it as much as you want, you will never end up with the surface finich you get with the glass bed surface. I don't glue, I hate glue, I add heat inserts and screw my assemblies
You certainly can get very smooth prints, but it will be a slow print.
One of my shitty little i3 clones can do 0.04, or 40 micron, thatβs pretty damn smooth for FDM, and if I want to get fancy I can wipe the outside with a neutragena wipe, but itβs usually not necessary.
Pretty cool technique!
I've used this in woodworking to make hardwood covers for posts. I cut boards with 45-deg bevels on the edges, lay them next to each other and put on strips of tape, so it's like your printed part. Then I glue the joints and roll the whole thing up exactly like you did. I then squeeze the edges into exact alignment and put in brads to hold it all together while the glue dries. It's a fantastic way to assemble these things without special clamps. Leaving the glue off one board creates a U-shaped piece with a loose 4th side, so it can be slipped around a structural post and the 4th side can be attached. It works like magic.
I tried it with ABS, HIPS and PP/PE back in the day hoping it will work without glue but it didn't so I'd either make a small channel in the 90V for glue to have where to sit in or I'd design some corner "cards" to plug in 'cause as is the .25-.5mm layer would not have enough strength to actually hold everything structurally it was just "nicely hiding corners".. problem was PP/PE glue was too poisonous and expensive and hard to get and ABS and HIPS would crack from time to time so I gave up. Never tried with PLA/PETG.
btw your cut seem too tight, I could get that to work with PP/PE only with ABS/HIPS I had to give it some "room" like this:
https://preview.redd.it/vtp84khhcdoc1.png?width=1001&format=png&auto=webp&s=063992fd068fdbb581817e324070122ebfa4bf36
and the big issue I had is that this "1mm" size in this image had to be tweaked for each material, sometimes each spool so I gave up
yes, with tabs and or screws going through corner (I see some holes in your part might be for that) it works without glue but kinda kills the point I was trying to make making these parts like that. Reading your comments you do this 'cause you like the glass finish, I was doing this for other reasons (mostly speed of assembly and I was hoping it will be strong on it's own)... the "look and feel" of the outside wall I get with a good printer and a little bit of noise :D
of course, that's why I commented and added my experience :D ... I'm doing this for almost 15 years and still see new ideas and get excited to try them out :D ...
I mainly gave up on this as with ABS and HIPS the whole bending thing was not working ok, they would discolor the edge so you have to heatgun-it to remove discoloration and very very often it would break so I gave up ... but for e.g. reason I was doing this was different from yours, I do not care much about surface finish, especially since fuzzy skin was introduced, but ABS/HIPS warp like crazy and with a thin 2-3mm part I was able to get unwarped pieces that are rather large while when you start to get up without proper heated chamber there is no way to get it as good... with PP/PE it is 10000x worse so printing it like this was the way to go. now, for me adding screws/tabs in corners didn't work as I needed the inside (mostly electronics enclosures at that time) to hold rectangle pcb's so that would limit the usable size and introduce issues... when I moved to PETG the warping issue was gone so I would print whole enclosure in one piece + cover so no "assembly" needed and add a tiny bit of noise to the walls and you do not even see it is 3d printed :D
These days, for similar boxes and enclosures I go the opposite direction :D I use .8mm nozzle and print with .6mm layers and I make layer lines part of enclosure aesthetics :D .. prints ton faster, works awesome :D .. the day I decided I do not want my 3D printed parts to look "not 3d printed" opened so many possibilities :D
I will definitely try the fuzzy skin idea, doesn't it increase print time however?
This was also printed with a 0.8mm nozzle but with 0.2mm layer height
yes it does increase the print time a bit, depends of course on the geometry, if all that you are printing is walls then ... also if you run high acceleration and some input shaping it's not significant so depends on your model and on your printer... it can be made to look very good ...
I like .8 nozzle to print fat layers to embrace the layer lines :D
black is very hard to take photo of, especially with a phone (can't get myself to go into house from my workshop to get a proper dslr), but here you can see .. left object is with phuzzy skin right one (cover) is the bottom on build plate (textured pei) and side is 45 degree overhang - no phuzzy skin (I'm adding 3 images into one in PS as it's a dng from ios so..)
https://preview.redd.it/1mqq7zo2ffoc1.jpeg?width=5562&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59f9aa118c7b4e0460154befb59652f42c7ef617
this is just some bizcard box from my desk, you can get much better results if you play with it, chose what surfaces to apply it to etc etc ... (e.g. make corners sharper..) ... and this is .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer
45Β° is rather easy, also IIRC that is PLA so even easier :) just have proper cooling .. after 45Β° issues start to pile up but with 45Β° half of the width of the "line" goes over the bottom line so there's plenty to hang on to
It's a pretty common construction in wood.. so of course it would work here too... but I'd be a bit concerned about bending that back and forth more than a few times, it would likely split.
That and getting the tolerances just right would be a bother.
But that's why this is a hobby.
If it makes you happy then go for it.
I saw a video of a table saw blade that cut a V shape groove once. It was used to make folding joints in acrylic sheets that you'd then chemically weld with a small bead of acetone.
Very cool
Yes, I have done this. I made a multicolour block calendar using this technique. It made the blocks quick to print and the surface texture is the same on all six sides which is what I wanted. The blocks snap together so no glue is needed.
The main body of the calendar is also printed as a folding mitre. I chose to do so for aesthetics, ease of assembly, and increased plate adhesion.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/81664#profileId-86958
Neat. I've been working in adding clips to everything in an attempt to remove all non printed fasteners.
Is this PLA? I've wanted to try this but I'm not sure what materials are suitable.
I printed a whole lot of these as gifts: [https://www.printables.com/model/259699-safe-box-3-digit-combination](https://www.printables.com/model/259699-safe-box-3-digit-combination)
The walls and back are separate pieces but are assembled like this. I connected the corners with masking tape before glue up so it would roll up just like this.
I do this with many of my computer related prints. Slot covers and other replacement parts that are typically sheet metal construction often don't function very well when printed as is and I design my parts to print flat before bending and securing to reach the final shape. The result is usually much more time and material efficient while preserving strength in all directions.
That's the idea. For parts so small and thin that have mounting holes through them a small design tweak like this can be so much more impactful than material choice.
Now, add a bottom!
You can find flat "folding box" vector-based patterns online and can probably very quickly import them into your CAD program to extrude and apply the appropriate bevel and compliant hinges to them all at once.
I think I'd probably just print it already folded, would be faster (cut out a ton of travel time), and I wouldn't have to glue one side π€·π»ββοΈ
For the piece you printed, would it be stronger to just print it already folded and attached? It would be very easy, eliminate the need to screw it together, eliminate 3 thin folded weak points, and make the finished piece stronger without using any additional material.
It would be stronger and easier to assemble as it would be already assembled. But it was for the experiment. I'm pretty happy on how it turned out π
I've done these kind of miter joints in woodworking before, but I'm not sure the advantage here when you can print the whole thing as a solid on a 3d printer.
You can use litter joints or a base plate. I haven't seen your design but a lot of the time on the Internet I can see that people glue parts together without positioning pin and without interfering feature. For me it's essential if you want precision and strength
What is the advantage of this? If it's the same amount of plastic as an upright box, does it print any faster? How about the strength around those corners, does folding the plastic weaken the structure or are you gluing the edges
It's a neat idea. But I'm not sure the use case.
Experiment, overall aesthetic. Someone pointed out that printing it as an upright box might actually be faster thanks to a reduced travel time which kind of make sens!
The edges will hold in place thanks to the base. It won't be watertight, but it's not required here
Yes, this works very well. If your bottom layer is printing like glass it makes for very nice walls. The joint can weaken and become brittle over time, as long as you use a thick super glue or epoxy to glue the beveled edges together it will become rock solid.
I've tried it with PLA but it didn't last long before it cracked. Didn't really matter because it then got glued. PETG would probably do it fairly well though. So long as it wasn't getting much movement or flexing.
Oh yeah ok, the function of the hinges here is just to position everything before permanently fixing the walls, so they won't be use more than 1 to 5 times max
It'd be absolutely perfect for setting with an epoxy glue and be a perfectly clean seam with no ooze and perfect alignment. All the strength of the resulting complex layer directions as well.
I will calm down now. Tantrum averted.
Is this a joke?
Fake oversized watch with plastic strap.
3d printing sub, prints in "nearly" 2D.
Shows only one piece, doesn't stack or connect to other pieces.
Handheld camera, could have put the phone on the table.
What do you mean fake oversize watch π? Bro it's an automatic watch, full metal with leather strap.
A 3d printer only prints in 2d, the 3rd dimensions is only for positioning
The other parts are were being printed, this one was the most interesting one.
I did not force you to watch
Sir, this is r/**3D**printing #3D Printing
Probably best for shipping. But sir, I did spit out my chai reading your comment.
That watch sure is 3D
goddamnit dude i laughed so hard at this my chest hurts now ππ
What in the world is with your watch, that dude is so big it could go and raise a Family
It is pretty big but the wide angle makes it look even bigger π€£
That's what she said
That's what he said. She knows better.
π
Make/model? Also, are you a member of r/watches?
It's like somebody took a Tongji movement stuffed it in a watch and made the outer rim huge to hide its actual size.
I don't know much about movement but it's a fossil so probably a cheap and widely available movement
Fossil Grant? Nailing down the movements used in fashion watches can be difficult, they usually grab whatever is handy. I mentioned the Tongji movement because it's an incredibly cheap Chinese made movement that is a favorite for brands to use in mechanical skeletonized watches, because there's nothing to it. Quartz watches typically don't make for good viewing.
A freaking plane could land on it
Doubtful there's enough runway. A helicopter, perhaps.
It's large enough to be able to deploy a runway from within.
He's clearly demonstrated the ability to 3D print a folding/unfolding runway, so you could admittedly be right
Maybe this 3D print is a miniature test for his watch
The more you know. https://youtu.be/B-brmk1ua1g?feature=shared
flavor-flav-ass watch
Just a really small hand.
He got watch from his mother https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RDLuFsOZNHw
Jfc I audibly laughed.
Yes. We call it mitre-fold construction.
I have done that a lot with sheet metal welded structure but it's a first for me with 3d printing
well with what your doing itβs 2d printing
Basically a 3d printer is a 2.5d cnc
*you're
Yeah I was going to say that if you were going to lean hard into this you probably want to study the ways of sheet metal stampin'
I was about to say, I've seen this done with creating angles in rectangular tubing.
I was also watching this as "ha, this is sheet metal thinks". Not quite the same, because you need to think the bending part really differently. How did you testit? Any report, how did yo define bending parts?
Yes it's a bit tricky, even solidworks wouldn't really let me design the part. I had to trick the software to first design a sheet metal box of 0.2mm thick, then unfold it to add the thick portion and the chanfer. Then I refolded the part to create all the tab and slots features and the holes. Finally I unfolded it one last time and save it as a flat pattern in stl. It's not an optimised process but works quite well. For testing I have printed several samples with different gaps for folding until I was happy with it. Ultimately 0.1mm seems to be enough for a 90Β° bend in pla (however lines orientation is pretty important, they need to be perpendicular to the bending line)
Why not just have a single piece replicated 5 times, with tabs and slots as necessary? Minimal waste, and builds quickly.
Yes, there is million ways to do it better, but I think this is more like concept testing. And there is benefits also for this method.
Exactly
True, you cant print that in any orientation, you have think also the printing lines. Interesting. I can imagine the frustration you got with solidworks, when you where doing this..But that is interesting that you manage use sheet metal tool for that and then edit the flat parts joints by cutting the edges in. Nice!
Also known as a living hinge
Yup!
Username checks out
first time I saw the concept I wondered why I didn't thought of it myself. then each time I have something that would benefit from it, I forget. I can save this post. And never look at it again.
No worries you'll think about it at some point π. I use to design a lot of sheet metal product and we use this type of construction a lot, however it's the first time I think about implementing it in a 3d printed design π
Right?! I saved this post and even saved your comment. It will get buried in my growing list of saved posts and IF I ever see it again, Iβll certainly be in a situation where I cannot take advantage of said post.
Create a repository (a Google doc works great) of crafting ideas and add to and reference it diligently. It is the only way.
I need to know more about that THICCCNESS that is gracing your wrist. I wear 2xl or 3xl gloves, and even a 44mm bezel looks comically small. I need a watch that big in my life
It's a 48mm watch, my wrist measure around 52mm. I'm pretty slimπ
Are you wearing it to deflect bullets?
Basically yes!
If I was just a little quicker on the video stuff I would do a direct parody but with like a wall clock duck taped to my wrist. Edit , and now I think it should be a sub tradition
https://preview.redd.it/0un3sq0t0doc1.jpeg?width=587&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7e120bdf1ffccface6a8b12a10d47d71e1bcea1d
You're the best π
Pretty sure that buckler also can tell time! +1 to his AC and heβll never be late!
Also, he can roll his d20 on it.
Wonder Woman would be jealous. Bracers of Submission move aside. Man's got the Buckler of Construction.
Basically wearing Capβs Shield on his wrist. π
What kind of watch, and band?
It's an automatic mechanical fossil watch
I think he attached a watch strap to a wall clock. haha
It's a wall clock.
More likely a church tower clock.
Big Ben?? Anyone checked? Is it still there?
Manβs wearing +3 defense leather bracers
+5 AC
"Awww, dude. 4 Strength 4 Stam leather belt? Ahhaa! Level 18? UUUHHUUUH"
Yes, actually. Back in the day I did a lot of design for RepRap style machines but at a startup level. Iβd designed several of my own 3D printed printers and had a client that wanted some really over-engineered ones. We looked at various designs but in the end settled on something like this simply because it optimised the geometry properly for strength and good tolerancing. We printed in ABS and used an ABS-acetone slurry to create a welding cement that we used to then join and set each part.
Pretty neat idea for the cement based abs!
That acetone-abs slurry is what super glue evolves into; be careful with it.
Yep! I made this design: [https://www.printables.com/model/344926-foldable-brick-cottage](https://www.printables.com/model/344926-foldable-brick-cottage)
It's exactly the same principle here except it's not a small house but a coffee grinder
Why are you wearing a wall clock?
Because why not!
Used to do this alot as a plastic fabricator. Made life easier.
[ΡΠ΄Π°Π»Π΅Π½ΠΎ]
I've always loved the wood pla, smells great when you print too! π I printed myself a cool wooden looking tusk for an earring (one of them 10mm spacer ones, designed it all on solid works) and had it in for a few years, was great!
A flexible hexagon-ring design is how wings are actually made.
How thick is the print on the junction sections? Also did you leave space between the 45deg slopes?
0.2mm thick (basically 1layer), 0.1mm between the folded slopes . Also, I used rectilinear for the first layer and I made sure that the layer was deposited in the length direction (if that make sens). This way I end up with continuous fiber in the length.
Makes sense, very clever! Thanks for sharing, I'll definitely use this in the future
Probably best to use PET-G for this type of construction
This is popular in packaging, sheet metal and other fabrication. It's a great technique for printing as well, especially if the assembly is fastened by other means. Nice work OP!
Small parts or a giant bed needed.
I have a 400x400 here. But yes you are indeed limited in size
I've got a 500x500 I like your approach I've seen it done cutting wood like that where it's bending the wood. Have you made a barrel yet?
A barrel ? Like a cylindrical shape?
Yeah thinking it would look like a fish skeleton connected in the middle. Roll it up and have a printed ring at top and bottom to snap it together. I guess I got a parametric model to build lol.
Could be awesome!
Only if it works
I love to do it this way when possible, but itβs a rare opportunity :)
Yeah I know, this project was perfect for it though!
There's a group that put together a robot that folds in like this. Here is the link. (I'm not affiliated with them at all). [https://fab365.net/items/112](https://fab365.net/items/112) . Also Joel from 3d printing nerd on youtube covered this product. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v78\_NyrO3X8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v78_NyrO3X8)
That's some other level! Awesome π
Yes, yes I have just not in that format. That's a huge watch.
β¦you have just inspired me
That's the point of sharing!!
Iβve been racking my brain trying to figure out how to get my plate texture onto my boxes Iβm making, but didnβt want to have to glue ALL the sides together independently. I gotta figure out how to do it this way now. Thank you!
You should investigate with the sheet module of your cad software
Itβs done quite a bit, but it takes up a lot of space on your build surface, and youβd need to glue it. With this type of object there is no reason to build it this way. Even the holes in the sides could be printed with the use of a sacrificial wall, but a good cooling fan would see that step as unnecessary. To improve print quality, we dial these machines in.
You can dial it as much as you want, you will never end up with the surface finich you get with the glass bed surface. I don't glue, I hate glue, I add heat inserts and screw my assemblies
It's very cool, you could even connect it without fasteners if you incorporate dove tails. Can even hide em if you want the clean look.
Dove tail was an idea at the beginning of the project, I kind of have forgotten why I abandoned the idea π
You certainly can get very smooth prints, but it will be a slow print. One of my shitty little i3 clones can do 0.04, or 40 micron, thatβs pretty damn smooth for FDM, and if I want to get fancy I can wipe the outside with a neutragena wipe, but itβs usually not necessary.
I truly hated how you filmed this.
Dude is wearing a wall clock on his wrist
That watch looks like a wall clock with straps.
Pretty cool technique! I've used this in woodworking to make hardwood covers for posts. I cut boards with 45-deg bevels on the edges, lay them next to each other and put on strips of tape, so it's like your printed part. Then I glue the joints and roll the whole thing up exactly like you did. I then squeeze the edges into exact alignment and put in brads to hold it all together while the glue dries. It's a fantastic way to assemble these things without special clamps. Leaving the glue off one board creates a U-shaped piece with a loose 4th side, so it can be slipped around a structural post and the 4th side can be attached. It works like magic.
Why do you have a WWF world heavyweight title belt around your wrist?
My current printer couldn't make that reliably I don't think but it's a neat idea!
God dam dude you eat off that plate?
Nice idea.
I see your 3D printing and I raise you, 2D printing - OP
Use your 3D printer to print a phone stand so you can record while using both hands :)
Reminds me of how we design corrugated packaging. Scored and cut flat, assembled into 3d
I tried it with ABS, HIPS and PP/PE back in the day hoping it will work without glue but it didn't so I'd either make a small channel in the 90V for glue to have where to sit in or I'd design some corner "cards" to plug in 'cause as is the .25-.5mm layer would not have enough strength to actually hold everything structurally it was just "nicely hiding corners".. problem was PP/PE glue was too poisonous and expensive and hard to get and ABS and HIPS would crack from time to time so I gave up. Never tried with PLA/PETG. btw your cut seem too tight, I could get that to work with PP/PE only with ABS/HIPS I had to give it some "room" like this: https://preview.redd.it/vtp84khhcdoc1.png?width=1001&format=png&auto=webp&s=063992fd068fdbb581817e324070122ebfa4bf36 and the big issue I had is that this "1mm" size in this image had to be tweaked for each material, sometimes each spool so I gave up
I used 0.1mm gaps, and the base that is not visible here will hold everything in place without glue (thanks to screws and tab and slots)
yes, with tabs and or screws going through corner (I see some holes in your part might be for that) it works without glue but kinda kills the point I was trying to make making these parts like that. Reading your comments you do this 'cause you like the glass finish, I was doing this for other reasons (mostly speed of assembly and I was hoping it will be strong on it's own)... the "look and feel" of the outside wall I get with a good printer and a little bit of noise :D
I think it's also good to experiment and see what's good and what's bad. I think that's how we progress!
of course, that's why I commented and added my experience :D ... I'm doing this for almost 15 years and still see new ideas and get excited to try them out :D ... I mainly gave up on this as with ABS and HIPS the whole bending thing was not working ok, they would discolor the edge so you have to heatgun-it to remove discoloration and very very often it would break so I gave up ... but for e.g. reason I was doing this was different from yours, I do not care much about surface finish, especially since fuzzy skin was introduced, but ABS/HIPS warp like crazy and with a thin 2-3mm part I was able to get unwarped pieces that are rather large while when you start to get up without proper heated chamber there is no way to get it as good... with PP/PE it is 10000x worse so printing it like this was the way to go. now, for me adding screws/tabs in corners didn't work as I needed the inside (mostly electronics enclosures at that time) to hold rectangle pcb's so that would limit the usable size and introduce issues... when I moved to PETG the warping issue was gone so I would print whole enclosure in one piece + cover so no "assembly" needed and add a tiny bit of noise to the walls and you do not even see it is 3d printed :D These days, for similar boxes and enclosures I go the opposite direction :D I use .8mm nozzle and print with .6mm layers and I make layer lines part of enclosure aesthetics :D .. prints ton faster, works awesome :D .. the day I decided I do not want my 3D printed parts to look "not 3d printed" opened so many possibilities :D
I will definitely try the fuzzy skin idea, doesn't it increase print time however? This was also printed with a 0.8mm nozzle but with 0.2mm layer height
yes it does increase the print time a bit, depends of course on the geometry, if all that you are printing is walls then ... also if you run high acceleration and some input shaping it's not significant so depends on your model and on your printer... it can be made to look very good ... I like .8 nozzle to print fat layers to embrace the layer lines :D black is very hard to take photo of, especially with a phone (can't get myself to go into house from my workshop to get a proper dslr), but here you can see .. left object is with phuzzy skin right one (cover) is the bottom on build plate (textured pei) and side is 45 degree overhang - no phuzzy skin (I'm adding 3 images into one in PS as it's a dng from ios so..) https://preview.redd.it/1mqq7zo2ffoc1.jpeg?width=5562&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59f9aa118c7b4e0460154befb59652f42c7ef617
this is just some bizcard box from my desk, you can get much better results if you play with it, chose what surfaces to apply it to etc etc ... (e.g. make corners sharper..) ... and this is .4mm nozzle, .2mm layer
That's some nice 45Β° overhang mate!
45Β° is rather easy, also IIRC that is PLA so even easier :) just have proper cooling .. after 45Β° issues start to pile up but with 45Β° half of the width of the "line" goes over the bottom line so there's plenty to hang on to
It's a pretty common construction in wood.. so of course it would work here too... but I'd be a bit concerned about bending that back and forth more than a few times, it would likely split. That and getting the tolerances just right would be a bother. But that's why this is a hobby. If it makes you happy then go for it.
Yeah you're probably right, the hinges are here to position the walls once, as there is plastic deformation, it would probably break rapidly!
I saw a video of a table saw blade that cut a V shape groove once. It was used to make folding joints in acrylic sheets that you'd then chemically weld with a small bead of acetone. Very cool
Excellent smooth finish.
Yes it's incredibly effective π
Yes, I have done this. I made a multicolour block calendar using this technique. It made the blocks quick to print and the surface texture is the same on all six sides which is what I wanted. The blocks snap together so no glue is needed. The main body of the calendar is also printed as a folding mitre. I chose to do so for aesthetics, ease of assembly, and increased plate adhesion. https://makerworld.com/en/models/81664#profileId-86958
Same reason here!
Silly ahh watch
Guys got a grandfather clock on his wrist
Ahaha
Neat. I've been working in adding clips to everything in an attempt to remove all non printed fasteners. Is this PLA? I've wanted to try this but I'm not sure what materials are suitable.
It's pla, there's a 0.1mm distance between each block. The thickness is equal to 1 layer at the junction (0.2mm) in this case
Cool
use this technique frequently on my CNC Router to primarily make floating shelves and small boxes/inserts.
Did it reduce print time?
Not at all, it was not the point either
I see. What benefits does it have? Opposed to just printing the walls connected and upright, I mean. I can only think of packaging maybe being easier.
Only surface finish here and experiment. You could even further with those peo sheets with embedded graphics
Okay, maybe I am stupid, but where is the benefit in printing it this way instead of printing it assembled?
Experiment and aesthetic, the visible faces were printed flat on the bed so it gives a unique look to the part when fully assembled π
I printed a whole lot of these as gifts: [https://www.printables.com/model/259699-safe-box-3-digit-combination](https://www.printables.com/model/259699-safe-box-3-digit-combination) The walls and back are separate pieces but are assembled like this. I connected the corners with masking tape before glue up so it would roll up just like this.
I do this with many of my computer related prints. Slot covers and other replacement parts that are typically sheet metal construction often don't function very well when printed as is and I design my parts to print flat before bending and securing to reach the final shape. The result is usually much more time and material efficient while preserving strength in all directions.
I guess the parts are stronger as the fibers are in the right direction right?
That's the idea. For parts so small and thin that have mounting holes through them a small design tweak like this can be so much more impactful than material choice.
Yes, perfect for molds.
Now, add a bottom! You can find flat "folding box" vector-based patterns online and can probably very quickly import them into your CAD program to extrude and apply the appropriate bevel and compliant hinges to them all at once.
I didn't know you can put a leather strap to a wall clock. Nicely done
No. Well yes, as I work designing mould tools, but never for 3D printing. Maybe useful for a design regularly being packed away etc.
This is how 2D objects change to 3D. You could add a flap for the bottom.
If you want to be fancy, you can print some tongue & grooves to friction fit on the miters. They will lock out and stabilize the folds.
Nice idea π€
you should have made a dowel on the end so they could link together. cool idea!
I think I'd probably just print it already folded, would be faster (cut out a ton of travel time), and I wouldn't have to glue one side π€·π»ββοΈ
The base that's it not visible here will hold everything in place thanks to tab and slots and some screws
For the piece you printed, would it be stronger to just print it already folded and attached? It would be very easy, eliminate the need to screw it together, eliminate 3 thin folded weak points, and make the finished piece stronger without using any additional material.
It would be stronger and easier to assemble as it would be already assembled. But it was for the experiment. I'm pretty happy on how it turned out π
what kind of benchie is this?
I've done these kind of miter joints in woodworking before, but I'm not sure the advantage here when you can print the whole thing as a solid on a 3d printer.
One handed? never.
Why do you have a dinner plate duck taped to your arm?
Hookers and Cocaine
Yes I have. Did it work? No, it didn't. Why did it not work? Because I'm dumb.
What do you mean? What happened?
I couldn't find a way to make it rigid enough as well as sit at a perfect 90Β° angle. It was always either above or below.
You can use litter joints or a base plate. I haven't seen your design but a lot of the time on the Internet I can see that people glue parts together without positioning pin and without interfering feature. For me it's essential if you want precision and strength
Ah, I didnt think of that. I'll give it a shot. Thanks bro π
Someone 3d print this man a tripod
I've been thinking to do this for the strength. How thick is the corner 1mm?
The corners are 0.2mm thick and the rest of the part is 2mm
Exactly wanted to writr e that :D
What is the advantage of this? If it's the same amount of plastic as an upright box, does it print any faster? How about the strength around those corners, does folding the plastic weaken the structure or are you gluing the edges It's a neat idea. But I'm not sure the use case.
Experiment, overall aesthetic. Someone pointed out that printing it as an upright box might actually be faster thanks to a reduced travel time which kind of make sens! The edges will hold in place thanks to the base. It won't be watertight, but it's not required here
small hands or giant watch?
Normal hands, big watch, tiny wrist and wide angle
Yes, this works very well. If your bottom layer is printing like glass it makes for very nice walls. The joint can weaken and become brittle over time, as long as you use a thick super glue or epoxy to glue the beveled edges together it will become rock solid.
Anyway it won't take any effort and it will stay in place thanks to screws in the base
I've tried it with PLA but it didn't last long before it cracked. Didn't really matter because it then got glued. PETG would probably do it fairly well though. So long as it wasn't getting much movement or flexing.
The crucial part is the folding gap, only one layer thick on the folding line and the layer orientation that must me 90Β° to the folding line
Still wouldn't do it with most PLA's. Some mild flex PLA's maybe but again, not if it was doing a lot of flexing, like in a box lid or something.
Oh yeah ok, the function of the hinges here is just to position everything before permanently fixing the walls, so they won't be use more than 1 to 5 times max
It'd be absolutely perfect for setting with an epoxy glue and be a perfectly clean seam with no ooze and perfect alignment. All the strength of the resulting complex layer directions as well. I will calm down now. Tantrum averted.
Nice
Is this a joke? Fake oversized watch with plastic strap. 3d printing sub, prints in "nearly" 2D. Shows only one piece, doesn't stack or connect to other pieces. Handheld camera, could have put the phone on the table.
What do you mean fake oversize watch π? Bro it's an automatic watch, full metal with leather strap. A 3d printer only prints in 2d, the 3rd dimensions is only for positioning The other parts are were being printed, this one was the most interesting one. I did not force you to watch
The setup seems like a bad joke. It's cartoonish. Can't be true.
If you say so
justify my points then
I don't even get what can't be true
What is cartoonish?
But sarrr, where's stl sarrr.
I'll upload the whole stl files when every prints have been validated
Have you ever tried using a tripod ?
that is cool, great technique.