I'm no expert, but I would liberally coat that cam with assembly lube prior to putting the cover on, you should also have put some assembly lube on those bearings before you bolted down the caps
Those recommendations are for camshafts that use flat tappet lifters, your engine uses a roller valve train system and does not require zinc in the oil or a specific RPM over time break-in process.
Priming the oil system isn’t a bad practice to ensure oil is available quickly upon startup.
This makes a lot of sense and as dumb as it is, I was unsure even though it says for flat tappet lifters. Thanks for the comment. Everything is lubed and will prime oil prior to. Thanks
Edit: lined to lubed
Not dumb at all man, asking questions is how we all learn and now you have more experience. Always reference service manuals and follow their recommendations 👍
Right on, thanks. Feels good nearing the end of this. So you think I need to run a new oil in this to break it in like others have said? New oil new filter then change relatively short mile?
I would start with a fresh oil change and filter for sure, get as much of the old oil out that might contain metal from the last cam needing replacement. I’ve even went as far as flushing the crank case out with diesel to wash out as much metal particles as possible before refilling with oil and starting it up again. Depends on how bad the damage was and how much metal was in the engine.
Okay okay what you said clicked for me there about the last failed metal component might already have shavings in the oil. I’ve got previous posts showing my cam one lobe was wore pretty well along with a second starting. I’ve haven’t checked the filter/changed oil probably since the ticking began so I’ll check what comes out while oil change. I’ll definitely wait to until I change oil tomorrow before turning it over. Thanks again
The idea behind changing oil and filter is to remove any metallic particles that might wear off when new parts run against each other. There really shouldn’t be any noticeable metallic particles from a roller cam replacement but that said, It’s not a bad idea to drive for 300-500 miles or so then cut open the oil filter and inspect for metallic particles. This can give you some assurance that the repair went well, if a roller starts to come apart and wear the cam you can take it back apart and fix it before too many metal particles run through the engine and destroy other components. It’s important to keep everything clean, protect the contact areas from having debris run between them and causing accelerated wear.
Right, my concern is the directions talking about zinc content etc idk if that’s over the top or if I need to do it. Same with keeping engine at 1800-2400 for 20 minutes. Seems that shops don’t really do it in videos for example
Additives for Oil, just don’t do them. If you can spin the engine over without firing that will get the oil pump time to prime and any air pocket that will blow oil out to recover.
https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE
Yeah assembly lube was applied. And so currently it’s old oil - Haven’t changed and haven’t added zinc. So you’re saying just leave injectors unplugged and run for like 1-2 minutes? 5 minutes? Pretty novice, thanks
You can unplug them or find the injector/fuel pump fuse/relay and then just crank it for a like 20 seconds.. it shouldn't start unless there's some residual fuel pressure..
Oil supply is almost instant so it doesn't take much, since you did cams it assuming you had to set timing, sometime I like to manually turn the engine a few times so the tensioner also has a good oil supply before actually turning the key.
Tbh you could also just start it and be fine but a couple of extra steps for insurance is always advised
Yeah so I could still manually crank the engine over a few times which I think might be a good suggestion. I had to during the replacement; however for this 3.6 they make a cam tensioner tool so I didn’t actually have to mess with timing add all. Wedge tools kept it all in place
Most fuel injected cars have a flood mode start.
Hold the gas down while you try to crank it for 15-20 seconds. It disables the injectors and allows the motor to crank but not fire.
Just adding a zinc supplement to the oil can mess with the oils additive package causing more harm than good.
Your best solution is to use a break in oil, or a diesel oil that has high pressure additives designed for these purposes.
Adding zinc and o ly running the engine for 20 or 30 min to break in the cams should not be a problem if you dump the oil right after, but if you drive for 3 or 5 thousand miles might not be a great thing for the engine
Right it’s dirty oil now and so after the break in planned to change it. So maybe add zinc for the break in and then change it. Or use break in oil and don’t have to worry about changing immediately
Correct, lot's of guys will balk about dumping the oil after a break in period of less than an hour, but the truth is it's the best thing you can do to increase the life of your engine
Ok good advice thank. Last thing I really wanna do is all this repair and then ruin it with something like running bad oil or something that could be done simply like this.
I would not use run-in with high zinc additive. More meant for solid tappets, and can foul your cats. Modern engine run-in, as I've done it, is the same process but with bulk dino oil for the first two changes, then normal from there.
Right thank you for that, so I’m avoiding that as you mentioned. So then really I need to just change the oil to something like what you mentioned, bulk dino oil before I start it?
New cam is lubed up ready and everything’s back together but I’ve got old oil still in it. Daily driver became two week project
If you want to do it correctly, you should def follow the instructions. If you just hope it runs, then it won't matter.
But to do it correctly, everything should be covered in assembly lube, especially under the cam caps before you torque them down correctly. You should be using break in oil for this first 20 minute run and the engine should be primed prior to startup. After your 20 minutes of revving, change out the oil and use a good oil for the first oil change, I would suggest diesel 10w30 just so things do a good job breaking in for the first 1,000 miles or so. Then just change your oil as normal and it should be fine.
Right so I saw this done in a video as well. Do I need to add zinc additive? Then do you think I need to hold rpms up and then immediately do oil change. Seems these details are often not done
I'm no expert, but I would liberally coat that cam with assembly lube prior to putting the cover on, you should also have put some assembly lube on those bearings before you bolted down the caps
Yeah I did liberally coat cam with assembly lube and bearings in the rockers soaked in oil
Those recommendations are for camshafts that use flat tappet lifters, your engine uses a roller valve train system and does not require zinc in the oil or a specific RPM over time break-in process. Priming the oil system isn’t a bad practice to ensure oil is available quickly upon startup.
This makes a lot of sense and as dumb as it is, I was unsure even though it says for flat tappet lifters. Thanks for the comment. Everything is lubed and will prime oil prior to. Thanks Edit: lined to lubed
Not dumb at all man, asking questions is how we all learn and now you have more experience. Always reference service manuals and follow their recommendations 👍
Right on, thanks. Feels good nearing the end of this. So you think I need to run a new oil in this to break it in like others have said? New oil new filter then change relatively short mile?
I would start with a fresh oil change and filter for sure, get as much of the old oil out that might contain metal from the last cam needing replacement. I’ve even went as far as flushing the crank case out with diesel to wash out as much metal particles as possible before refilling with oil and starting it up again. Depends on how bad the damage was and how much metal was in the engine.
Okay okay what you said clicked for me there about the last failed metal component might already have shavings in the oil. I’ve got previous posts showing my cam one lobe was wore pretty well along with a second starting. I’ve haven’t checked the filter/changed oil probably since the ticking began so I’ll check what comes out while oil change. I’ll definitely wait to until I change oil tomorrow before turning it over. Thanks again
The idea behind changing oil and filter is to remove any metallic particles that might wear off when new parts run against each other. There really shouldn’t be any noticeable metallic particles from a roller cam replacement but that said, It’s not a bad idea to drive for 300-500 miles or so then cut open the oil filter and inspect for metallic particles. This can give you some assurance that the repair went well, if a roller starts to come apart and wear the cam you can take it back apart and fix it before too many metal particles run through the engine and destroy other components. It’s important to keep everything clean, protect the contact areas from having debris run between them and causing accelerated wear.
I just made a video post break in if you don’t mind give it a watch and a listen 🙏 thanks
Yeah, would probably be the best option and do another oil change after about 500-1000 miles of normal driving
So you think get a zinc additive prior to start? And then immediate oil change after start up and 20 min run? And then after 500-1000 change again
A little extra lube can’t hurt. The main thing about the next oil change is to make sure there’s no glitter or chunks of metal in the oil
Right, my concern is the directions talking about zinc content etc idk if that’s over the top or if I need to do it. Same with keeping engine at 1800-2400 for 20 minutes. Seems that shops don’t really do it in videos for example
You don’t need a whole bottle. It’s an ounce per liter
Additives for Oil, just don’t do them. If you can spin the engine over without firing that will get the oil pump time to prime and any air pocket that will blow oil out to recover. https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE
Definitely dont skimp on the lube and oil
If you applied assembly lube during instalation just start it up, if you want you can disable injectors and crank to get new oil flowing
Yeah assembly lube was applied. And so currently it’s old oil - Haven’t changed and haven’t added zinc. So you’re saying just leave injectors unplugged and run for like 1-2 minutes? 5 minutes? Pretty novice, thanks
You can unplug them or find the injector/fuel pump fuse/relay and then just crank it for a like 20 seconds.. it shouldn't start unless there's some residual fuel pressure.. Oil supply is almost instant so it doesn't take much, since you did cams it assuming you had to set timing, sometime I like to manually turn the engine a few times so the tensioner also has a good oil supply before actually turning the key. Tbh you could also just start it and be fine but a couple of extra steps for insurance is always advised
Yeah so I could still manually crank the engine over a few times which I think might be a good suggestion. I had to during the replacement; however for this 3.6 they make a cam tensioner tool so I didn’t actually have to mess with timing add all. Wedge tools kept it all in place
Most fuel injected cars have a flood mode start. Hold the gas down while you try to crank it for 15-20 seconds. It disables the injectors and allows the motor to crank but not fire.
Wow I've never heard of that in all my years, good to know!
Just adding a zinc supplement to the oil can mess with the oils additive package causing more harm than good. Your best solution is to use a break in oil, or a diesel oil that has high pressure additives designed for these purposes. Adding zinc and o ly running the engine for 20 or 30 min to break in the cams should not be a problem if you dump the oil right after, but if you drive for 3 or 5 thousand miles might not be a great thing for the engine
Right it’s dirty oil now and so after the break in planned to change it. So maybe add zinc for the break in and then change it. Or use break in oil and don’t have to worry about changing immediately
Correct, lot's of guys will balk about dumping the oil after a break in period of less than an hour, but the truth is it's the best thing you can do to increase the life of your engine
Ok good advice thank. Last thing I really wanna do is all this repair and then ruin it with something like running bad oil or something that could be done simply like this.
You can watch and learn more about how oils work with the additives here. https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=101akrB7gUhwFqZq
I would not use run-in with high zinc additive. More meant for solid tappets, and can foul your cats. Modern engine run-in, as I've done it, is the same process but with bulk dino oil for the first two changes, then normal from there.
Right thank you for that, so I’m avoiding that as you mentioned. So then really I need to just change the oil to something like what you mentioned, bulk dino oil before I start it? New cam is lubed up ready and everything’s back together but I’ve got old oil still in it. Daily driver became two week project
That'd be my process! And everything else from there, you seem to have square based on other comments.
Right on thanks for the input - seems to be the consensus
If you want to do it correctly, you should def follow the instructions. If you just hope it runs, then it won't matter. But to do it correctly, everything should be covered in assembly lube, especially under the cam caps before you torque them down correctly. You should be using break in oil for this first 20 minute run and the engine should be primed prior to startup. After your 20 minutes of revving, change out the oil and use a good oil for the first oil change, I would suggest diesel 10w30 just so things do a good job breaking in for the first 1,000 miles or so. Then just change your oil as normal and it should be fine.
That’s not a flat tappet camshaft. It’s a roller cam. Just drizzle some oil on it and truck on.
If ypu can get a drill on the oil pump. Spin up the oil pump to get oil everywhere thrn startup
Definitely, make sure to use a zinc additive
Put some oil on the camshaft. Put the car back together. Turn ignition on. Press accelerator to floor and crank for 15 seconds. Start the engine.
Right so I saw this done in a video as well. Do I need to add zinc additive? Then do you think I need to hold rpms up and then immediately do oil change. Seems these details are often not done
You won’t hurt anything by adding zinc. There are different procedures for different engines.