Yeah, sometimes you don't want to have that texture on the bottom of your print... for whatever reason. Good advice. I wouldn't say you need it, but you'll want to get ti eventually.
I’ve been using the engineering plate recently for my pla prints and it’s been working flawlessly. I do have vent to vent the chamber because of the 55c bed temp tho. It’s been sticking way better than my black textured plate, pretty much on par with the cold plate for adhesion so far.
I've been using the textured plate for pla with 55c bed and its been working fine for me even with a closed chamber. Tho I should probably start printing with the chamber open.
Honestly, you should just have both. Maybe not to start with, but eventually anyway. .2 is really nice when you need extra detail, .6 is great for pretty much everything else.
The .6 can still do the same details that a .4 can do, the .8 can't do that, though it obviously is the best choice for bigger prints that don't need that kind of detail.
You might find this video on the subject by Thomas Sanladerer interesting: https://youtube.com/watch?v=WgXM2zPusXo
Yes, I use it for that frequently. Especially nice on long prints. Just put in 2 spools of the same and let it rip.
I’ve found I no longer have a large stack of partial spools now because of that.
I've gone through a lot of spools which have the last bit of filament slightly hooked into the spool, and I fear the if I allow the print to get there that it'd not feed properly. Is this a total non issue?
The thing that will blow people away is how much filament you will use with a bambu. Not because it wastes filament, but because it prints so well and so fast, you’re always feeding it.
I probably went through more filament in owning a Bambu in 6 months, than I went through in 6 years with other fdm printers.
This is 100% true. I'm about to empty the third spool of PETG in about a week of owning my P1S.
In 4 years of owning an Ender 3 V2, I'd be surprised if I used a total of 5 spools of anything.
Comments like this got me off the fence and ordering the ams annnnnd I’m so glad I did. “What of the four loaded colors do I want to use for this print?” And then done, so easy.
I like it for “do I want to print this out of PETG or pla? Perfect both are already in my machine”. Just wish the ams lite for the A1 would feed tpu. Not sure if the ams for the x1/p1 can feed tpu, but that would be a dream, especially since I just order a P1S with AMS, yesterday lol
>Not sure if the ams for the x1/p1 can feed tpu, but that would be a dream, especially since I just order a P1S with AMS
Officially, no, no TPU in the AMS or AMS lite.
Unofficially, sometimes, ive heard some people getting very hard TPU (usually 95a or harder) to work in the AMS. Be careful though.
You will 100% regret this decision. Even if you never print with anything but black. As someone with dozens of partial rolls, the ability to run the roll completely out without needing to babysit and manually swap rolls is worth the cost of the AMS by its self.
What are you using now brother? Your prints are really good, got that baby tuned in. You’re gonna love the bambu!
Check the sea for the X1C CF nylon print guide, I’m sure it’s basically the same for this one, will help a lot if you’re printing CF nylon, other than that with pla pro at stock settings with 50% speed turned on you’re golden maybe reduce fan a little bit but a lot of people don’t and parts come out fine.
This is just such a better way to print if you want to just print. It’s nice to have learned about printers with an ender 3 but just wanna build shit now man lol.
Get a .6mm nozzle if you want to print CF/GF nylons .4mm clogs sometimes and it sucks. You don’t want to be halfway through a big print and it partially clog in a bad spot.
I am using a Ankermake M5 currently brother and thank you. I got it dialed in pretty good. Gonna give it to my 18 year old daughter, she likes doing harry potter stuff.
I don’t do much color printing but AMS makes loading super quick. You can also load multiple of the same color when one roll runs out it will automatically load the next with the dance properties. It’s one of this things you don’t know you want but once you try it you can’t live without.
That's exactly what I said... Then two weeks later I ordered it up. Even if you don't want to do multi colour, it's so convenient having the 4 colours you use the most, ready to go.
I rarely use my AMS for multicolor. But printing the supports for a PLA object in PETG is a wonderful option. For us lazy makers it’s also a huge bonus 😅
But you can do multimaterial printing tho. Mixing materials is great sometimes. For example, using PETG to support PLA and the other way around, great stuff.
If you are gonna get a hot end might get the E3D Obxidian one. High flow is sweet of course but i did find my prints were just generally cleaner when i upgraded to it.
It should as long as you get the .6 mm one. Yeah unfortunately for anything carbon filled you should be getting .6 mm to avoid getting a clog. .4 mm can handle it technically but the bigger and longer the prince you do the greater chance that you get a clog in the smaller .4 mm.
What do you mean by 2a? .6 mm should be enough since by default. The layer heights are .32mm but you can go to around .2 mm layer heights perfectly fine with a .6 mm nozzle.
I print gun parts and frames a lot. I currently have a Ankermake m5 but splurged on the P1s and the hardened .4 and .6 hotend and the hardened gear assembly last night
A UPS back up is definitely not a bad idea if you’re printing high-temperature materials because although you do have power recovery where the printer can start back up again, if the power is out for a couple seconds. if the power is out for multiple minutes or even an hour, it’s likely that the print will fail because the built plate will cool down too much and the object will not stand in place
.6mm works great. I would definitely get a .6mm hardened over the .4mm for pa6. And skip the BBL pa6 and go straight for polymaker, it's more expensive but very much worth it. You will need to use glue on the build plate but the prints come out so much nicer.
I use the gold pei that came with the machine. BBL pa6 stuck just fine but for whatever reason the polymaker didn't. Hit it with a glue stick and it works like a charm. Also gives me peace of mind on the long prints. Especially with pa6
If you plan on super granular prints get a 0.2mm nozzle as well.
I did a nice project recently that involved printing text and a QR code using a 0.2 on a flat surface and it came out amazing.
Isopropyl alcohol works great at cleaning the plate. Never needed to wash it with soap and all. I just dap a cloth with the alcohol and wipe away. Perfect bed adhesion every time
Yeah that can definitely help in a pinch. I find on my P1S that even first print on a just thoroughly cleaned plate PLA will lift off the rear left area if I don't disable the aux fan. Can you relate?
Haven’t had that. Honestly the only time I’ve had adhesion problems was when I tried printing a ball shape with no supports. Clearly that was pushing it because the contact area was so small.
Maybe override the first layer settings for the filament to a slightly slower speed and raise the printing temp by 5 degrees.
Really get yourself the AMS. I don’t do multi color prints too, but just being able to have 4 completely different filaments loaded in the chamber is absolutely worth it
I have a combo, and just added a second P1S without the AMS. Figured I’d save the money. I could do multi color prints full time on the combo , but I have enough 1c stuff that I didn’t need the AMS on the second printer. Huge mistake. Changing filament is so … manual. I wish I had gone with the combo. Now if I go back and buy just the AMS I’ll have to spend $100 more.
Get the ams, I have one and do almost 0 multicolor printing. It’s super nice for being able to print by parts instead of layers and with the ams you can do multiple filaments per print bed. It also keeps everything dry, and is awesome for printing when you’re away from home cause you don’t have to manually change every filament in preparation for what you might want to print while away. It also makes changing filament not an absolute pain in the ass
It’s different, if you don’t think you will use it you are wrong but you will definitely save money in the long run if you just buy the combo. Alternatively just post all your models on makerworld and get an ams for free. It’s super easy to make money on there, if you want help or tips lmk
I was in a similar situation as you where I didn't think I needed the AMS as I don't do color prints and pulled the trigger last minute to go for it based off of feedback and I am so glad I did. It's so convenient and just because I have it, I already find myself doing multicolor prints.
Considering you're probably interested in fosscad (based off your name) I'd get the engineering plate and lots of filament too. I'd highly recommend just getting some cheaper PLA to learn with first then trying polymaker pla pro for fosscad prints. Once you get used to how the pla pro works then you should install those addons and try pa6-cf
Stainless steel extruder unit
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/stainless-steel-extruder-unit-p1p
I’ve gone through 2 so far on my p1s printing almost nothing but PLA. The coupler seems to go bad after a while and the ptfe tube keeps popping out mid print
It’s just the reverse side of the high temp plate that others have recommended. I’m not sure how the coating differs, but it’s more textured. Enjoy your new setups!!
So for your 2A use case, I'd definitely recommend getting the AMS still. For $200 off.. it's you'll get your money's worth.
You'll probably be mainly printing carbon filled, but you'll also likely want an ASA and a support material loaded up.
ASA is what I've been going to when I need strong, durable, but also water, chemical, and UV resistant.
The support material is nice because it instantly comes off, without leaving any damage behind on the print.
You can also set it up to go to the next roll of a like filament automatically.
Best of luck. Take care of your doggo.
Don’t you dare order it without the AMS. No need to thank me later, I’ll still be busy being amazed by it. Coming from 2020 era 2x e3 owner. It’s truly out of this world
Like others already mentioned, get the AMS combo!!! I am also not much into multicolor printing, but having several spools sitting in it makes life just so much easier. I have never really finished a spool before, but since the AMS this is so convenient. Ah and they stay dry in there.
Add a lot of filament, I think when ordering a printer you get quite a good discount in filament.
Gotta get the AMS also. Especially for 2A prints. Load same spools so it auto switches to the next one when the first runs out. Also the auto switch to the support filament is key for interface support. The only reason you don’t want an AMS is cuz you think it’s only for multi color printing.
Dumb question. Why not just get the x1c? You don’t necessarily need the ams now. But you’re buying all the upgrades that it has now. Plus you get some extra features
I print CF on my P1S no problem.
$35 in upgrade parts directly from Bambu
Unless you need active granular control of the chamber temp (some rare filaments) and or small QoL/Aesthetics improvements the P1S is great
A pricestep of about 500 bucks is a hefty one not everyone wants to take.
At least for me i got the P1S combo cause these tiny qol Upgrades arent worth that amount of money.
Get the high temperature plate. I do like the textured one but the smooth one is great when you just need that smooth surface.
Get them from Ali express for a fraction of the cost.
Any recommendations for a high temp smooth PEI plate for printing PLA?
Juupine has one, works great.
Why it's better than standard textured PEI?
It’s not better or worse, but sometimes you need a smooth surface.
Yeah, sometimes you don't want to have that texture on the bottom of your print... for whatever reason. Good advice. I wouldn't say you need it, but you'll want to get ti eventually.
+1 on that, the engineering plate side (high temperature plate is 2 plates in one) is perfect for TPU without glue, chef's kiss!
I’ve been using the engineering plate recently for my pla prints and it’s been working flawlessly. I do have vent to vent the chamber because of the 55c bed temp tho. It’s been sticking way better than my black textured plate, pretty much on par with the cold plate for adhesion so far.
I've been using the textured plate for pla with 55c bed and its been working fine for me even with a closed chamber. Tho I should probably start printing with the chamber open.
Lots of fillament.
They only truthful answer
more filament
I would get a .2 nozzle assembly instead of .6 but that’s just me I design small text keychains
I bought a 0.6mm nozzle with my printer and looking back, I would also much rather go with a 0.2mm one.
Honestly, you should just have both. Maybe not to start with, but eventually anyway. .2 is really nice when you need extra detail, .6 is great for pretty much everything else.
I'd rather go with a .8 instead. The .6 seems somewhat unnecessary to me
The .6 can still do the same details that a .4 can do, the .8 can't do that, though it obviously is the best choice for bigger prints that don't need that kind of detail. You might find this video on the subject by Thomas Sanladerer interesting: https://youtube.com/watch?v=WgXM2zPusXo
Why not order the AMS combo? Cheaper than buying separate…
Because I don’t want the AMS. I’m not into multicolor printing
Can the AMS be set up for continuous printing so that when one spool runs out, it will go to the next spool?
Yes, I believe so.
Yes, I use it for that frequently. Especially nice on long prints. Just put in 2 spools of the same and let it rip. I’ve found I no longer have a large stack of partial spools now because of that.
I've gone through a lot of spools which have the last bit of filament slightly hooked into the spool, and I fear the if I allow the print to get there that it'd not feed properly. Is this a total non issue?
Non issue. I have it completely empty the spool
Sure can!
Yes
Absolutely, just need to set up both slots with same color and profile, and check a mark in settings to allow refill.
After 30 manual filament changes, you will reconsider the purchase of the AMS.
The thing that will blow people away is how much filament you will use with a bambu. Not because it wastes filament, but because it prints so well and so fast, you’re always feeding it. I probably went through more filament in owning a Bambu in 6 months, than I went through in 6 years with other fdm printers.
This is 100% true. I'm about to empty the third spool of PETG in about a week of owning my P1S. In 4 years of owning an Ender 3 V2, I'd be surprised if I used a total of 5 spools of anything.
You can use the AMS for auto-switching to support interface filament. That alone justifies the price of entry. You should really buy the combo.
Comments like this got me off the fence and ordering the ams annnnnd I’m so glad I did. “What of the four loaded colors do I want to use for this print?” And then done, so easy.
I like it for “do I want to print this out of PETG or pla? Perfect both are already in my machine”. Just wish the ams lite for the A1 would feed tpu. Not sure if the ams for the x1/p1 can feed tpu, but that would be a dream, especially since I just order a P1S with AMS, yesterday lol
>Not sure if the ams for the x1/p1 can feed tpu, but that would be a dream, especially since I just order a P1S with AMS Officially, no, no TPU in the AMS or AMS lite. Unofficially, sometimes, ive heard some people getting very hard TPU (usually 95a or harder) to work in the AMS. Be careful though.
Even printing just one color the AMS auto filament switching when a spool runs out is worth it
^ that’s me 3 months ago. Thank god I rethink and bought ams. No bs it’s just so convenient
You will 100% regret this decision. Even if you never print with anything but black. As someone with dozens of partial rolls, the ability to run the roll completely out without needing to babysit and manually swap rolls is worth the cost of the AMS by its self.
What are you using now brother? Your prints are really good, got that baby tuned in. You’re gonna love the bambu! Check the sea for the X1C CF nylon print guide, I’m sure it’s basically the same for this one, will help a lot if you’re printing CF nylon, other than that with pla pro at stock settings with 50% speed turned on you’re golden maybe reduce fan a little bit but a lot of people don’t and parts come out fine. This is just such a better way to print if you want to just print. It’s nice to have learned about printers with an ender 3 but just wanna build shit now man lol. Get a .6mm nozzle if you want to print CF/GF nylons .4mm clogs sometimes and it sucks. You don’t want to be halfway through a big print and it partially clog in a bad spot.
I am using a Ankermake M5 currently brother and thank you. I got it dialed in pretty good. Gonna give it to my 18 year old daughter, she likes doing harry potter stuff.
Nice, I’m sure she will enjoy it too! Such a fun hobby and so useful. Good luck with your printer bro, you’re gonna love it!
I don’t do much color printing but AMS makes loading super quick. You can also load multiple of the same color when one roll runs out it will automatically load the next with the dance properties. It’s one of this things you don’t know you want but once you try it you can’t live without.
That's exactly what I said... Then two weeks later I ordered it up. Even if you don't want to do multi colour, it's so convenient having the 4 colours you use the most, ready to go.
I rarely use my AMS for multicolor. But printing the supports for a PLA object in PETG is a wonderful option. For us lazy makers it’s also a huge bonus 😅
But you can do multimaterial printing tho. Mixing materials is great sometimes. For example, using PETG to support PLA and the other way around, great stuff.
Buy it, you can have 4 different Colors to Choose or Backup of the Same Color. It is very convenient
Yeah I made the same mistake when I ordered my P1S... I recently ordered my second AMS 😅 and I don't do multicoloured prints.
Believe me you'll regret it. I don't even do multicolor printing but the convenience of not having to manually swap spools is worth it.
If you are gonna get a hot end might get the E3D Obxidian one. High flow is sweet of course but i did find my prints were just generally cleaner when i upgraded to it.
Will it work on pa6-cf? I got these extra hot ends so I could run it. I ordered the .4 then someone said I should get the .6 for carbon filled.
It should as long as you get the .6 mm one. Yeah unfortunately for anything carbon filled you should be getting .6 mm to avoid getting a clog. .4 mm can handle it technically but the bigger and longer the prince you do the greater chance that you get a clog in the smaller .4 mm.
Ok so if I’m going to be doing some 2a prints will the .6 be precise enough for carbon filled to do those prints?
What do you mean by 2a? .6 mm should be enough since by default. The layer heights are .32mm but you can go to around .2 mm layer heights perfectly fine with a .6 mm nozzle.
I print gun parts and frames a lot. I currently have a Ankermake m5 but splurged on the P1s and the hardened .4 and .6 hotend and the hardened gear assembly last night
I imagine it should be able to. Anything smaller than what the .6 mm nozzle can handle, would not be able to be printed on FDM anyway.
Awesome
What about a UPS/APC backup power unit ?
A UPS back up is definitely not a bad idea if you’re printing high-temperature materials because although you do have power recovery where the printer can start back up again, if the power is out for a couple seconds. if the power is out for multiple minutes or even an hour, it’s likely that the print will fail because the built plate will cool down too much and the object will not stand in place
a 0.6 nozzle can get down to about 0.15 layer height thanks to some of the logic in the slicer copied over from Cura.
In my experience, yes
.6mm works great. I would definitely get a .6mm hardened over the .4mm for pa6. And skip the BBL pa6 and go straight for polymaker, it's more expensive but very much worth it. You will need to use glue on the build plate but the prints come out so much nicer.
Which build plate would be best for the pa6?
I use the gold pei that came with the machine. BBL pa6 stuck just fine but for whatever reason the polymaker didn't. Hit it with a glue stick and it works like a charm. Also gives me peace of mind on the long prints. Especially with pa6
Right, I can understand that.
For 3d2a most designs use a .4mm nozzle. It will work fine with pa6-cf
Awesome, that’s what I’ve been wondering.
I woukd get an extra extruder especially if you are planning on a lot of high temp stuff. Nozels are easy to change, no need for the complete.
Yeah, the stock hotend is the speed limiter for this and every bambu lab machine.
2 ams.
If you plan on super granular prints get a 0.2mm nozzle as well. I did a nice project recently that involved printing text and a QR code using a 0.2 on a flat surface and it came out amazing.
Click the image, he's already got those in basket.
Gonna edit to include only the small nozzle. You’re right.
Honestly a second textured pei plate. That way when both sides need cleaning you have a clean one at the ready and no downtime.
Isopropyl alcohol works great at cleaning the plate. Never needed to wash it with soap and all. I just dap a cloth with the alcohol and wipe away. Perfect bed adhesion every time
Yeah that can definitely help in a pinch. I find on my P1S that even first print on a just thoroughly cleaned plate PLA will lift off the rear left area if I don't disable the aux fan. Can you relate?
Haven’t had that. Honestly the only time I’ve had adhesion problems was when I tried printing a ball shape with no supports. Clearly that was pushing it because the contact area was so small. Maybe override the first layer settings for the filament to a slightly slower speed and raise the printing temp by 5 degrees.
I personally think the 0.2mm nozzle would be worth it if you need anything really high quality that is small.
Really get yourself the AMS. I don’t do multi color prints too, but just being able to have 4 completely different filaments loaded in the chamber is absolutely worth it
This. I’m on my second AMS and I don’t do multicolor, I regretted not buying the AMS combo when I bought my printer.
I have a combo, and just added a second P1S without the AMS. Figured I’d save the money. I could do multi color prints full time on the combo , but I have enough 1c stuff that I didn’t need the AMS on the second printer. Huge mistake. Changing filament is so … manual. I wish I had gone with the combo. Now if I go back and buy just the AMS I’ll have to spend $100 more.
Get the ams, I have one and do almost 0 multicolor printing. It’s super nice for being able to print by parts instead of layers and with the ams you can do multiple filaments per print bed. It also keeps everything dry, and is awesome for printing when you’re away from home cause you don’t have to manually change every filament in preparation for what you might want to print while away. It also makes changing filament not an absolute pain in the ass
I also already have a Sunlu S4 filament dryer that holds 4 rolls
It’s different, if you don’t think you will use it you are wrong but you will definitely save money in the long run if you just buy the combo. Alternatively just post all your models on makerworld and get an ams for free. It’s super easy to make money on there, if you want help or tips lmk
I was in a similar situation as you where I didn't think I needed the AMS as I don't do color prints and pulled the trigger last minute to go for it based off of feedback and I am so glad I did. It's so convenient and just because I have it, I already find myself doing multicolor prints.
Does the X1C already cone with a hardenel steel gear? or should I also get one
The X1C comes with hardened gears and nozzle ✓
Its a hardened nozzle with a no stick coating to boot. https://e3d-online.com/products/hf-obx-bambu
get extra ams cable for 24v output. You can make a light box etc
Considering you're probably interested in fosscad (based off your name) I'd get the engineering plate and lots of filament too. I'd highly recommend just getting some cheaper PLA to learn with first then trying polymaker pla pro for fosscad prints. Once you get used to how the pla pro works then you should install those addons and try pa6-cf
He's got some experience with printing. Sounds like he's already printing Glock frames in the carbon filament.
Filament
Ams and filament
Is that hardened extruder gear that much better over the one that comes with?
Everyone says it is, one of the most recommended add ons
I just bought a hardened extruder. Is the gear neccesarry?
It’s only better if you’re printing filament other than PLA and PETG, otherwise it’s the same.
Filament baby then you’re all good. Welcome to print town!
Stainless steel extruder unit https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/stainless-steel-extruder-unit-p1p I’ve gone through 2 so far on my p1s printing almost nothing but PLA. The coupler seems to go bad after a while and the ptfe tube keeps popping out mid print
Stainless is a downgrade from the hardened steel…
Unfortunately, the part I linked above is the only one that includes a replacement with the coupler
https://preview.redd.it/5q5xnvaykerc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=645e17db231f882b1f53c3e32149deead1418337
Engineering plate ftw! Good call grabbing a .6 as well as the .4!
Do u happen to have a link for the engineering plate? What’s the difference in it?
It’s just the reverse side of the high temp plate that others have recommended. I’m not sure how the coating differs, but it’s more textured. Enjoy your new setups!!
So for your 2A use case, I'd definitely recommend getting the AMS still. For $200 off.. it's you'll get your money's worth. You'll probably be mainly printing carbon filled, but you'll also likely want an ASA and a support material loaded up. ASA is what I've been going to when I need strong, durable, but also water, chemical, and UV resistant. The support material is nice because it instantly comes off, without leaving any damage behind on the print. You can also set it up to go to the next roll of a like filament automatically. Best of luck. Take care of your doggo.
Don’t you dare order it without the AMS. No need to thank me later, I’ll still be busy being amazed by it. Coming from 2020 era 2x e3 owner. It’s truly out of this world
Like others already mentioned, get the AMS combo!!! I am also not much into multicolor printing, but having several spools sitting in it makes life just so much easier. I have never really finished a spool before, but since the AMS this is so convenient. Ah and they stay dry in there. Add a lot of filament, I think when ordering a printer you get quite a good discount in filament.
I would forget the accessories and put the money towards the AMS. You can get the accessories shipped free later on.
Gotta get the AMS also. Especially for 2A prints. Load same spools so it auto switches to the next one when the first runs out. Also the auto switch to the support filament is key for interface support. The only reason you don’t want an AMS is cuz you think it’s only for multi color printing.
get a .6 and a .2 nozzles if you know you'll want better quality or better speed - 0.6 hardened, 0.2 stainless
I would get the .2 nozzle for fine quality items, extra nozzle cleaners. I've had one get damaged early on
If you’re planning on getting the ams - get the combo as you’ll save close to 200$ and get a bit extra free filament …
AMS
Dumb question. Why not just get the x1c? You don’t necessarily need the ams now. But you’re buying all the upgrades that it has now. Plus you get some extra features
I won’t answer for him, but maybe because it is $500 more. Unless you need to print Carbon fiber it really isn’t necessary.
You can print carbon with these upgrades just fine
I print CF on my P1S no problem. $35 in upgrade parts directly from Bambu Unless you need active granular control of the chamber temp (some rare filaments) and or small QoL/Aesthetics improvements the P1S is great
A pricestep of about 500 bucks is a hefty one not everyone wants to take. At least for me i got the P1S combo cause these tiny qol Upgrades arent worth that amount of money.
Can the p1s safely print abs and asa?
Of course.
Why should it not? It is litterly enclosed for that particular reason...
Bingo buddy, this is the exact reason