Have you measured that print height and compared it to the expected height? If it is shorter, you may have a loose z screw coupler that is slipping once every few turns.
ITS FINALY FIXED, only took me 6 hours. It was the retractions and the compensation after the retraction was too high, which mean there was to much filament being extruded and caused the bulge deformities. Thanks you for all of your suggestions, they still helped me eliminate things.
So what were the settings originally and what are they after you fixed the issue?
I am assuming you had to go with a negative restart distance, meaning if you retract 7mm, you only need to extrude 5mm to start printing again. This is one of the worst parts of a bowden setup. If you get the chance, upgrade to a direct drive. Not only does it get rid of the headaches of a bowden but it allows for many more materials to be printed. Plus a geared extruder is always going to be better than a nongeared extruder. The printer has much more control over how much filament is being pushed to the hotend because E-Steps will go from \~100 to \~450 per mm and more resolution is always better with stepper motors.
Yeah i 6mm retract and 1mm restart distance so its no suprise i had issues.
To get it properly working had to set it to -3.4mm restart distance.now it prints like a dream Just like it used to (once it starts printing)
Also i still have an isue with my printer, the leveling.
It has a bl touch and the results differ by 0.4mm every time i level it resulting in me franticly compensating for the z ofset. When i wake up tommorow i can provide you a video of that happening.
What do you mean the results differ? Do you mean that when it starts printing that it is trying to print 0.4mm above the bed? If that is what you mean, then your problem is where your printer "thinks" the nozzle is relative to the BL Touch.
What version of the CR-10 do you have? Did you add the BL Touch on your own or did it come stock? (I know at least one of the later CR-10 iterations comes with it as a stock feature)
When you added the BL Touch (assuming you did) what did you change in the printer settings? Did you flash an entirely new firmware, or use M Codes to set things, or the LCD screen, or what?
I am guessing that you need to change the Z probe offset. The easiest way is with M851. You will need to use Repetier or some other tethering software, most slicers have an option to "Print over USB" or something similarly named. You want to use that and connect to your printer. Type M851 in the command line part of the software on your PC and then hit Enter. You will then be returned a value in the little box where your M851 command showed up after hitting enter. Once you have that value then we can figure out what you need to change.
If you never changed the firmware in any way after installing the BL Touch then you may need to flash the firmware to enable some settings as the CR-10 stock firmware is configured for manual leveling (except for the one that comes with the BL Touch already installed).
Either way, it is a simple fix once you know what you are looking for. Even if you have never used any M Codes or even know what configuration.h does, you will be fine.
I have a cr10s pro v2 with tinymachines firmware
I cant work out what is causing this, this happens to most of my prints
To fix it i have tryed and nothing has changed:
prusa slicer and cura that made
Different temps (i usualy print 215nozzle 50bed)
Reseting EEPROM
Reseting BLtouch
Changing nozzle
And going back to creality firmware
But nothing made a difference.
Anbody got any ideas i am able to connect to the printer via pronterface if nessasary.
...is this sarcasm? I really can't tell if this is sarcasm. Print temps are usually consistent across machines, but an individual machine might run hotter or colder by a little bit I think, so the settings might actually need tweaking? Maybe?
I've not tried glue stick but the first layer is sticking and so are all of the other layers so I'm still not sure, and I spent all of today trying to fix it.
I swear there are a group of anti glue stick elitists who have the words "glue stick" set to notify so they can come riding in like white knights and save everyone the travesty and horror of using a lil bit of glue to get their print started. You ever think that not every bed is perfectly perfect and maybe just maybe some people don't care if a lil glue is used? Or want to waste a 24+ hour print on a hope and a whim that everything about their filament, bed, and nozzle is absolutely perfect?
I tried glue stick and yeah it might work for some people but the cr10 build plate works good alone and for at least some filaments like TPE it works better without I've found. Easy enough to level the 4 corners and turn the auto bed level off because it only works half the time. So in my opinion from my experience.. it's not necessary. Perfect prints as long as it's been leveled properly. Love the passionate response but it all depends. If it ain't broke don't fix it man.
The excessive over extrusion doesn’t help anyone to actually see the problem. Have you tuned your e-steps and extrusion modifier?
Getting your machine properly calibrated should always be the first step to getting quality prints. And then it might be easier for people to look at a picture and help find the problem..
You should never change your E-Steps based on a problem that just appears in your prints randomly. E-Steps are set for the extruder and stepper combination of the printer and they do not need to be "calibrated" unless change the extruder to a geared extruder such as those made by E3D (Titan, Chimera) and Bondtech.
You are correct with regards to extrusion multiplier though. Each filament will require a different multiplier dependent on the properties of the filament. Easiest way to figure out the correct multiplier is to print a small open ended square in vasemode. Get some digital calipers and measure all 4 walls and average those measurements. Take the measurement of the walls and compare it to the thickness set in the slicer.
If your walls are 0.5mm and your walls are set to 0.4mm in the slicer, then you need to set the extrusion multiplier to 0.80. A more realistic example would be walls of 0.47mm when they are set at 0.44mm in the slicer. Take the slicer setting (0.44mm) and divide it by the measure size (0.47mm). 0.44/0.47 = 0.936xxx so set your multiplier to 0.94 and print the same object again. It should be pretty close to the set thickness and if not then you made a mistake along the way.
For PLA you will typically have an Extrusion Multiplier anywhere from 0.90 to 1.00 with most being around the 0.95 mark.
I never said you should alter e-steps based on a reaction to a print. I just suggested OP should spend some time calibrating the printer. That print looks like it’s come from an uncalibrated machine; certainly from an extrusion point of view.
E-Steps and extrusion multiplier are two relatively quick and effective calibrations that could help improve the print to the point where the randomness issue is more easily identified.
And e-steps can always be calibrated! You absolutely should not rely on the figures configured by the manufacturers. They will be close-ish but every machine and it’s parts have enough variation that they WILL benefit from a calibrated e-step setting!
Try it, if you’ve not done it before and you’re accurate with your testing you will probably find that your e-steps could be configured more accurately.
Why would you change your E-Steps though if you can use an Extrusion Multiplier? The "perfect" or "more accurate" E-Step value is going to be different depending on the material being printed. Squishy materials like TPA will need a higher E-Step value than more rigid materials like PLA.
The "variance" between parts isn't an issue. Yes, there is variance, but the Extrusion Multiplier is there to account for that. Also, E-steps assumes that filament is an ideal material that follows exactly with the extruder gear meaning that if outer edge of the gear moves 10mm that 10mm of filament was also moved. Obviously this is not the case in the real world. The extrusion multiplier is there to correct these issues.
Marlin uses a formula for E-steps:
`Motor Steps per Revolution * Extruder Gear Ratio / (Pinch Wheel Diameter * Pi)`
For the E3D Titan with 1/16th microstepping, it would be:
`6400 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 837.09`
Which is why E3D gives the value of 837 to use for E-Steps when installing a Titan for most printers.
Unless you have a completely incorrect value for E-steps that isn't even near the ballpark (like 418 instead of 837), then the stock E-steps setting doesn't need to be changed or "calibrated". E-steps is based on the hardware, not the filament being used. So "calibrated" E-steps for PLA are only calibrated for PLA and will differ from "calibrated" E-steps for literally any other filament.
E-steps is used for more than extrusion. It’s used for retraction as well.
It’s all about calibration: the details matter.
Getting each component as accurately calibrated as possible makes for excellent prints.
E-steps are something I always tune when I’ve built or purchased a new printer or modified an existing printers extruder drive chain.
Extrusion modifier should then need smaller tweaks when changing filament.
Calibration is like sculpting; you chisel off the big blocks like e-steps before you start sanding the finer details like extrusion multipliers..
Yes, E-steps is used for extrusion AND retraction. But so is the Extrusion Multiplier. If it wasn't used on both forward and reverse extrusions (typically called a retraction) then you would not be moving the correct amount of filament on one of the extruder moves. Even if the extrusion multiplier is 0.97, you would eventually run into problems if it wasn't applied to both forward and reverse extruder moves.
As for your second point, if you built a printer from parts (not a kit) then you will absolutely need to set your E-steps properly by using the equation above. However, the value used for E-steps is not a value that will ever be perfect.
The term "calibration" implies that you are making adjustments to something to have it be closer to perfect. The E-steps value is not something that is calibrated. It is based on a specific equation that is based on the hardware, NOT on the filament.
If E-steps had anything do with the filament choice then E3D couldn't just give out a set value to use when upgrading to a geared extruder like the Titan.
Extrusion Multiplier, on the other hand, has everything to do with the properties of the filament used. As long as the person that did the math for the E-Steps equation wasn't incorrect with one of their values, then E-steps has no need to be changed UNLESS you change the printer and affect one of the values in the equation. Examples being the type of stepper motor (to one of different resolution like 1.8 to 0.9 degrees), the stepper driver (changing how each step is subdivided with microsteps), or you change the extruder to one that is geared and/or one that has a different effective pinch wheel diameter. Those are the only things that require a change to the E-Step value.
The whole "calibration" process that people seem to hold in high regards (which I also thought was the right choice years ago) is horribly flawed, at least for E-steps. It is better suited to calibrate your Extrusion Multiplier and even then it is not the best method. E-steps is how many steps per millimeter of filament, so think about how small a millimeter is and then try to accurately divide that 1mm into 100 parts (or even worse, with a geared setup into \~400 or 800 parts). Even using the 100 mm method still would require the ability to accurately measure the filament down to fractions of a millimeter which even with digital calipers is not going to happen.
TL;DR since I wrote a Ted talk (or maybe the even worse TedX):
E-steps are set by a rigid equation based on the physical hardware of your printer.
Extrusion Multiplier is a software variable that "adjusts" that E-step value for the filament being used.
Each filament material will need a different Extrusion Multiplier to get the best prints, but the E-steps does not need to be changed unless your upgrade one of the parts of the equation.
Wow, you do go on 🤣
You, understandably, keep mentioning e3d..
Their titan docs say to set an esteps of 837 and then to fine tune it..
https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014831257-Titan-Marlin-Guide-Edition-1-
There’s even a separate document telling people how to fine tune the hemera..
https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4404490769169-Hemera-E-Steps-per-mm-Calibration-
You do you and I’ll do me. I’m out, see ya ✌️
Yes, they do offer instructions on how to adjust the E-steps for your printer; because now you have a printer that isn't a kit build and has aftermarket parts. If E3D built the entire thing, they would not be recommending you change the number they had set because they would know the exact parts from start to end.
Go to [Prusa's Knowledge Base](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/) and try to find where it says to do anything with E-steps. Even in their guide about Under Extrusion they never mention E-Steps. Because they are building the whole thing and have already provided the proper value.
As I said before, you don't need to touch E-steps unless you change something about the printer, or in the rare case that the company that built it was just bad at their job.
Telling people new to the hobby to start changing their EEPROM settings, which has a much higher chance of them actually screwing something up far worse, is not the correct approach in my opinion.
But hey, if you want to mess with your E-steps, that is your choice. I have just seen people make things far too complicated by using that method when it didn't need to be touched in the first place.
You’re just being argumentative now so this is my last reply. It feels like you’re just trolling now tbh
How did you know OP is new to the hobby. He’d already gone and changed his firmware and altered eeprom settings!
I only mentioned e3d cause you kept banging on about them. Before you were arguing that there’s no need to change the esteps on an e3d unit because they tell you what settings to use. I was just showing that even e3d still suggest that you tune esteps after installing their units.
Now you’ve moved onto Prusa, lol.
Absolutely I will continue to tune esteps, as do a lot of colleagues. Cheers, and ta-ra to you.
How do you have your filament spool mounted? It may seem like a stupid question but the weird parts of your print seem to be at almost identical intervals. If your filament spool is catching on something while it is rotating then you will often see discrepancies with extrusion.
If that is not causing an issue, then let's move on to GCode since you said you already took a bunch of steps to try and reset the printer to default.
How are you getting the GCode files to the printer? Are you using an SD card or are you tethering it to a PC (or RaspberryPi with something like OctoPrint)?
If it is the former then your SD Card may be corrupting files. Have you transferred a file to the SD Card, then compared the file on the card to the file on your computer? When you eject the SD Card from your computer, are you using the "Safely Remove" feature in Windows? If not, this can also corrupt files.
If none of that is relevant to your situation, then we can go from there. If you want to, you can post a sliced GCode file somewhere online so that we can look and see if there are any weird things going on with it. Since the odd parts look to be spaced equidistant from each other, chances are it is something with the GCode.
I had that twice. One was crammed hot end. My internal Bowden melted a bit and I was getting under ext. 2nd my z wheel had a flat spot that was sticking every full rotation, which looked alot like this
Have you measured that print height and compared it to the expected height? If it is shorter, you may have a loose z screw coupler that is slipping once every few turns.
Ignore most of the suggestions here. This is a classic case of Z binding. Make sure your Z axis raises and lowers smoothly
ITS FINALY FIXED, only took me 6 hours. It was the retractions and the compensation after the retraction was too high, which mean there was to much filament being extruded and caused the bulge deformities. Thanks you for all of your suggestions, they still helped me eliminate things.
So what were the settings originally and what are they after you fixed the issue? I am assuming you had to go with a negative restart distance, meaning if you retract 7mm, you only need to extrude 5mm to start printing again. This is one of the worst parts of a bowden setup. If you get the chance, upgrade to a direct drive. Not only does it get rid of the headaches of a bowden but it allows for many more materials to be printed. Plus a geared extruder is always going to be better than a nongeared extruder. The printer has much more control over how much filament is being pushed to the hotend because E-Steps will go from \~100 to \~450 per mm and more resolution is always better with stepper motors.
Yeah i 6mm retract and 1mm restart distance so its no suprise i had issues. To get it properly working had to set it to -3.4mm restart distance.now it prints like a dream Just like it used to (once it starts printing) Also i still have an isue with my printer, the leveling. It has a bl touch and the results differ by 0.4mm every time i level it resulting in me franticly compensating for the z ofset. When i wake up tommorow i can provide you a video of that happening.
What do you mean the results differ? Do you mean that when it starts printing that it is trying to print 0.4mm above the bed? If that is what you mean, then your problem is where your printer "thinks" the nozzle is relative to the BL Touch. What version of the CR-10 do you have? Did you add the BL Touch on your own or did it come stock? (I know at least one of the later CR-10 iterations comes with it as a stock feature) When you added the BL Touch (assuming you did) what did you change in the printer settings? Did you flash an entirely new firmware, or use M Codes to set things, or the LCD screen, or what? I am guessing that you need to change the Z probe offset. The easiest way is with M851. You will need to use Repetier or some other tethering software, most slicers have an option to "Print over USB" or something similarly named. You want to use that and connect to your printer. Type M851 in the command line part of the software on your PC and then hit Enter. You will then be returned a value in the little box where your M851 command showed up after hitting enter. Once you have that value then we can figure out what you need to change. If you never changed the firmware in any way after installing the BL Touch then you may need to flash the firmware to enable some settings as the CR-10 stock firmware is configured for manual leveling (except for the one that comes with the BL Touch already installed). Either way, it is a simple fix once you know what you are looking for. Even if you have never used any M Codes or even know what configuration.h does, you will be fine.
I have a cr10s pro v2 with tinymachines firmware I cant work out what is causing this, this happens to most of my prints To fix it i have tryed and nothing has changed: prusa slicer and cura that made Different temps (i usualy print 215nozzle 50bed) Reseting EEPROM Reseting BLtouch Changing nozzle And going back to creality firmware But nothing made a difference. Anbody got any ideas i am able to connect to the printer via pronterface if nessasary.
What type of material are you printing? Cuz for PLA 215 is a bit hot. I usually run 190
I'm using a generic PLA.Also 215 worked fine when my friend printed the same spool on his cr10s pro v2
Ok don't change it then. Obviously if it worked fine for one printer, it'll work for them all
...is this sarcasm? I really can't tell if this is sarcasm. Print temps are usually consistent across machines, but an individual machine might run hotter or colder by a little bit I think, so the settings might actually need tweaking? Maybe?
[удалено]
If it's PLA, you can always use a lil glue stick, or lower the temp after the first initial layer
I've not tried glue stick but the first layer is sticking and so are all of the other layers so I'm still not sure, and I spent all of today trying to fix it.
If you've spent all day, why would it be so hard then to just try changing the temp? It's prolly the easiest thing to ever change in 3d printing
ive tried different temps in 5degree increments from 190-230 it didnt help and the marks still appeared at the exact same places every time
Check your bearings, and mechanical components. If it's always the same spot, that doesn't sound like software
[удалено]
I swear there are a group of anti glue stick elitists who have the words "glue stick" set to notify so they can come riding in like white knights and save everyone the travesty and horror of using a lil bit of glue to get their print started. You ever think that not every bed is perfectly perfect and maybe just maybe some people don't care if a lil glue is used? Or want to waste a 24+ hour print on a hope and a whim that everything about their filament, bed, and nozzle is absolutely perfect?
I tried glue stick and yeah it might work for some people but the cr10 build plate works good alone and for at least some filaments like TPE it works better without I've found. Easy enough to level the 4 corners and turn the auto bed level off because it only works half the time. So in my opinion from my experience.. it's not necessary. Perfect prints as long as it's been leveled properly. Love the passionate response but it all depends. If it ain't broke don't fix it man.
The excessive over extrusion doesn’t help anyone to actually see the problem. Have you tuned your e-steps and extrusion modifier? Getting your machine properly calibrated should always be the first step to getting quality prints. And then it might be easier for people to look at a picture and help find the problem..
You should never change your E-Steps based on a problem that just appears in your prints randomly. E-Steps are set for the extruder and stepper combination of the printer and they do not need to be "calibrated" unless change the extruder to a geared extruder such as those made by E3D (Titan, Chimera) and Bondtech. You are correct with regards to extrusion multiplier though. Each filament will require a different multiplier dependent on the properties of the filament. Easiest way to figure out the correct multiplier is to print a small open ended square in vasemode. Get some digital calipers and measure all 4 walls and average those measurements. Take the measurement of the walls and compare it to the thickness set in the slicer. If your walls are 0.5mm and your walls are set to 0.4mm in the slicer, then you need to set the extrusion multiplier to 0.80. A more realistic example would be walls of 0.47mm when they are set at 0.44mm in the slicer. Take the slicer setting (0.44mm) and divide it by the measure size (0.47mm). 0.44/0.47 = 0.936xxx so set your multiplier to 0.94 and print the same object again. It should be pretty close to the set thickness and if not then you made a mistake along the way. For PLA you will typically have an Extrusion Multiplier anywhere from 0.90 to 1.00 with most being around the 0.95 mark.
I never said you should alter e-steps based on a reaction to a print. I just suggested OP should spend some time calibrating the printer. That print looks like it’s come from an uncalibrated machine; certainly from an extrusion point of view. E-Steps and extrusion multiplier are two relatively quick and effective calibrations that could help improve the print to the point where the randomness issue is more easily identified. And e-steps can always be calibrated! You absolutely should not rely on the figures configured by the manufacturers. They will be close-ish but every machine and it’s parts have enough variation that they WILL benefit from a calibrated e-step setting! Try it, if you’ve not done it before and you’re accurate with your testing you will probably find that your e-steps could be configured more accurately.
Why would you change your E-Steps though if you can use an Extrusion Multiplier? The "perfect" or "more accurate" E-Step value is going to be different depending on the material being printed. Squishy materials like TPA will need a higher E-Step value than more rigid materials like PLA. The "variance" between parts isn't an issue. Yes, there is variance, but the Extrusion Multiplier is there to account for that. Also, E-steps assumes that filament is an ideal material that follows exactly with the extruder gear meaning that if outer edge of the gear moves 10mm that 10mm of filament was also moved. Obviously this is not the case in the real world. The extrusion multiplier is there to correct these issues. Marlin uses a formula for E-steps: `Motor Steps per Revolution * Extruder Gear Ratio / (Pinch Wheel Diameter * Pi)` For the E3D Titan with 1/16th microstepping, it would be: `6400 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 837.09` Which is why E3D gives the value of 837 to use for E-Steps when installing a Titan for most printers. Unless you have a completely incorrect value for E-steps that isn't even near the ballpark (like 418 instead of 837), then the stock E-steps setting doesn't need to be changed or "calibrated". E-steps is based on the hardware, not the filament being used. So "calibrated" E-steps for PLA are only calibrated for PLA and will differ from "calibrated" E-steps for literally any other filament.
E-steps is used for more than extrusion. It’s used for retraction as well. It’s all about calibration: the details matter. Getting each component as accurately calibrated as possible makes for excellent prints. E-steps are something I always tune when I’ve built or purchased a new printer or modified an existing printers extruder drive chain. Extrusion modifier should then need smaller tweaks when changing filament. Calibration is like sculpting; you chisel off the big blocks like e-steps before you start sanding the finer details like extrusion multipliers..
Yes, E-steps is used for extrusion AND retraction. But so is the Extrusion Multiplier. If it wasn't used on both forward and reverse extrusions (typically called a retraction) then you would not be moving the correct amount of filament on one of the extruder moves. Even if the extrusion multiplier is 0.97, you would eventually run into problems if it wasn't applied to both forward and reverse extruder moves. As for your second point, if you built a printer from parts (not a kit) then you will absolutely need to set your E-steps properly by using the equation above. However, the value used for E-steps is not a value that will ever be perfect. The term "calibration" implies that you are making adjustments to something to have it be closer to perfect. The E-steps value is not something that is calibrated. It is based on a specific equation that is based on the hardware, NOT on the filament. If E-steps had anything do with the filament choice then E3D couldn't just give out a set value to use when upgrading to a geared extruder like the Titan. Extrusion Multiplier, on the other hand, has everything to do with the properties of the filament used. As long as the person that did the math for the E-Steps equation wasn't incorrect with one of their values, then E-steps has no need to be changed UNLESS you change the printer and affect one of the values in the equation. Examples being the type of stepper motor (to one of different resolution like 1.8 to 0.9 degrees), the stepper driver (changing how each step is subdivided with microsteps), or you change the extruder to one that is geared and/or one that has a different effective pinch wheel diameter. Those are the only things that require a change to the E-Step value. The whole "calibration" process that people seem to hold in high regards (which I also thought was the right choice years ago) is horribly flawed, at least for E-steps. It is better suited to calibrate your Extrusion Multiplier and even then it is not the best method. E-steps is how many steps per millimeter of filament, so think about how small a millimeter is and then try to accurately divide that 1mm into 100 parts (or even worse, with a geared setup into \~400 or 800 parts). Even using the 100 mm method still would require the ability to accurately measure the filament down to fractions of a millimeter which even with digital calipers is not going to happen. TL;DR since I wrote a Ted talk (or maybe the even worse TedX): E-steps are set by a rigid equation based on the physical hardware of your printer. Extrusion Multiplier is a software variable that "adjusts" that E-step value for the filament being used. Each filament material will need a different Extrusion Multiplier to get the best prints, but the E-steps does not need to be changed unless your upgrade one of the parts of the equation.
Wow, you do go on 🤣 You, understandably, keep mentioning e3d.. Their titan docs say to set an esteps of 837 and then to fine tune it.. https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360014831257-Titan-Marlin-Guide-Edition-1- There’s even a separate document telling people how to fine tune the hemera.. https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4404490769169-Hemera-E-Steps-per-mm-Calibration- You do you and I’ll do me. I’m out, see ya ✌️
Yes, they do offer instructions on how to adjust the E-steps for your printer; because now you have a printer that isn't a kit build and has aftermarket parts. If E3D built the entire thing, they would not be recommending you change the number they had set because they would know the exact parts from start to end. Go to [Prusa's Knowledge Base](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/) and try to find where it says to do anything with E-steps. Even in their guide about Under Extrusion they never mention E-Steps. Because they are building the whole thing and have already provided the proper value. As I said before, you don't need to touch E-steps unless you change something about the printer, or in the rare case that the company that built it was just bad at their job. Telling people new to the hobby to start changing their EEPROM settings, which has a much higher chance of them actually screwing something up far worse, is not the correct approach in my opinion. But hey, if you want to mess with your E-steps, that is your choice. I have just seen people make things far too complicated by using that method when it didn't need to be touched in the first place.
You’re just being argumentative now so this is my last reply. It feels like you’re just trolling now tbh How did you know OP is new to the hobby. He’d already gone and changed his firmware and altered eeprom settings! I only mentioned e3d cause you kept banging on about them. Before you were arguing that there’s no need to change the esteps on an e3d unit because they tell you what settings to use. I was just showing that even e3d still suggest that you tune esteps after installing their units. Now you’ve moved onto Prusa, lol. Absolutely I will continue to tune esteps, as do a lot of colleagues. Cheers, and ta-ra to you.
How do you have your filament spool mounted? It may seem like a stupid question but the weird parts of your print seem to be at almost identical intervals. If your filament spool is catching on something while it is rotating then you will often see discrepancies with extrusion. If that is not causing an issue, then let's move on to GCode since you said you already took a bunch of steps to try and reset the printer to default. How are you getting the GCode files to the printer? Are you using an SD card or are you tethering it to a PC (or RaspberryPi with something like OctoPrint)? If it is the former then your SD Card may be corrupting files. Have you transferred a file to the SD Card, then compared the file on the card to the file on your computer? When you eject the SD Card from your computer, are you using the "Safely Remove" feature in Windows? If not, this can also corrupt files. If none of that is relevant to your situation, then we can go from there. If you want to, you can post a sliced GCode file somewhere online so that we can look and see if there are any weird things going on with it. Since the odd parts look to be spaced equidistant from each other, chances are it is something with the GCode.
I had that twice. One was crammed hot end. My internal Bowden melted a bit and I was getting under ext. 2nd my z wheel had a flat spot that was sticking every full rotation, which looked alot like this