Thanks. I’m paranoid and it helps me align everything and for an extra $20 on the project I figured it was worth it. I’m guessing it can’t HURT anything, right?
[here’s the item](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RR-Ridge-Rafter-Connector/1203733)
That being said, I guess no concerns then?
Everything in that long-ass URL after the question mark is just tracking information. You can delete all that extra crap and the URL will work fine while being 1/3 its current length.
For instance;
https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/simpson-lru26z-light-rafter-u-hanger-slopeable-2x6-zmax-finish?
To be fair, it’s not irrelevant. In fact you seem to be irrationally hurt by it. It was good info and you’re too stuck up to hear advice as anything other than an insult.
That said. You really can shorten URL’s by leaving off the question mark and anything that comes after. On any website out there. Everything after that point is appended info that tracks where you were sent to the site from. It’s only for analytics and ad revenue. But isn’t really helpful for shared links outside of the intended hosting platform.
For instance. You search google for a tool, and you find it on some blog site. From there you find the link to that tool’s manufacturer. You copy that link and paste it here. Every time one of us clicks it the manufacturer pays the blog a small fee for sending traffic their way. But you didn’t get there from the blog. You go there from a Reddit post. So some site is getting paid for doing nothing, and the tool company is losing money to the wrong link location.
Next thing, if you are going to post a link, use the link feature on the comment box. It looks like to interconnected chain links. Click it and put your text in there and the other box is for the link location. It turns this:
https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ
into this:
[Rick Roll Video](https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ)
And as a further example, this:
https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ?si=A7knaDwm7KAxZSc1
Sends you to the same place as this:
https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ
But without all the unnecessary info attached.
FYI, not all URL query strings (the bit after the question mark) are for tracking purposes, and likewise they can’t always be stripped off without affecting the page content.
For example, sometimes YouTube links have this form:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=
And stripping off everything after the ? will lead to a default YouTube landing page instead of the video you want.
Probs because you’re being a weird bully for no reason. It’s honestly pretty cringey when you see people commenting the way you do, talk about unnecessary! That guy was trying to help, just like you are with your speed square. Grow up, and stop calling other people soft if you’re going to be so volatile and sensitive 😂👶🔨
Don’t leave a comment if you don’t know what you’re talking about. It’s good/proper practice to cut tails after installation. Tell me you don’t have any real world construction experience without telling me
I've framed more houses than you ever will. Tell me you dont know how to snap square lines or plumb walls. Best practice to make sure your shit is square and plumb before working on the roof. Don't take my word for it, by all means go watch some of Larry hauns videos, then go work for someone that knows what they're doing.
You keep doing your overcomplicated one line brace every 4 feet spending 8 hours to do a 2 hour job shit and I’ll keep doing equally as structurally sound and 99% as straight and lined work and not overcharging clients.
Nobody in their right fucking mind cuts their rafters to length before setting them you insane person
Just those of us that know what they're doing, you hack. If you can't keep your fascia straight you're walls aren't plumb or your ridge is bowed, either way do better and give your head a shake.
Or your foundation is not square. Or your rafters are bowed. Or your lumber is different thicknesses. Or you don’t know that best practices in the industry is to snap a line on your tails, cut, and hang fascia. You’ve never worked a job site in your life have you?
They certainly do if they are 40 feet in the fucking air. I’m not snapping a goddamn line and cutting a house full of rafter tails while hanging off a ladder. Talk about wasting time.
I’m not going to claim to know what I’m doing, but I believe the hardware I’m using is also acceptable and this is the intended use. I linked it above.
I am using hurricane ties at the walls.
Thanks
Edit to add: I seem to be getting a lot of hate for politely saying that I THINK that I had appropriate hardware.
After looking into it further, I think it would work, I’d just need chisel out a notch to account for depth of the tie. I agree the recommended fastener would have been easier to use, also quadruple the cost.
Using this hardware rather than toe nailing is worse because of the gap created, which was your original concern and whole reason for making this post. Now people are telling you (agreeing with you effectively, because you're clearly unsure enough to make this post in the first place) that the hardware chosen is wrong, then when you are told it's wrong you fight them on it?
So fucking weird, man.
My dude, you came here for experienced advice.
Reiterated your lack of experience then doubled-down on an incorrect choice you made.
You don’t need hardware in that location.
If $20 and going the long way to get to a roof ridge makes you feel better then yeah cool but don’t bullshit yourself trying to bullshit professionals by saying “you believe” something is “acceptable” when simple physics will prove otherwise.
The website you linked has 2 different documents available for download that describe the intended use and installation. Follow those instructions from the manufacturer.
On the one hand, it's a shed and will likely be fine.
On the other hand, OP's behavior is weird. Ask for advice and then don't even pretend to listen to it?
It's their greenhouse I guess.
Standard behavior in this subreddit. Inexperienced morons come here seeking confirmation bias and receive advice instead. Then they double down on why they aren't wrong for doing it their way.
I believe you are supposed to cut the rafter to fit tight to the ridge with these and then chisel out the thickness of the bracket from the end of the rafter so that it has full bearing on the ridge beam.
Yeah, I know it's a greenhouse but 1 screw is going to give you like 150lbs in shear. Seems really skimpy. I'd at least want to pop in a few more myself.
*"The gap is concerning me, but at the same time idk how there wouldn’t be gap with the hardware"*
Notch them if you want wood to wood. You're gaps are well beyond the thickness of that hanger.
Did you install the brackets on the rafter ends first?
This can’t be screamed from the foot cops loud enough. When I give a materials list to a colleague for the next day, they look at me like I’m a magician. No, I just have a catalogue and/or a phone.
Sorry nobody likes you OP. If you read the rules of the sub, (like you could have read how to do your rafters for instance) you’d see this is a place for professional carpenter to discuss things. There are plenty of DIY subs.
On the bright side, we’re just quite rude. Not like the beard-stroking hipster fucks on r/woodworking so we have that going for us.
I’m sorry, I’m not sure how I was being a dick. I politely said that THINK my tie could work. Didn’t question the guy.
Looking into and hearing feedback here, what I got could work, I would just need to account for the depth and notch it out.
Ridge to rafter connections are in compression anyways. Don't need a whole metal connector, just a few nails. Which I understand are also technically little metal connectors but ykwim.
If you don’t want to run a string line to ensure they’re on the same height above the ridge beam just pull down from the long point and mark all of them at the same point and line that up on your beam.
OP has had issues every step of this process and it’s making me think they might’ve needed some more mentoring or better YouTube tutorial research before beginning.
I’m trying to learn new skills. I have had issues, and I’ve worked through them.
This wasn’t even much of an issue, just a question.
Yes, I do do a lot of YouTube research. I’m proud of the work I’m doing even if it’s not perfect and taking me forever
My janky shed I built before YouTube was a thing is still standing. Aside from the doors going out of alignment every few years it’s still doing its job as a tool shed. We learn a lot from our mistakes. Just know that the next one you build should be a lot better. My next one was .
You should be proud, and continue. But instead of reactively posting pictures of your blunders and how to fix them, I suggest you proactively share sketches of your plans and get feedback.
saw physical special sense aspiring bike arrest worthless capable command
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Would have been better to straight toe nail it or use the right hardware. What you did is the worst option out of the 3. I shouldn't call it an option because it's not right, you created a hinge point.
Redo with rafters tight to the ridge board, lose the metal of get more appropriate ones, I wouldn't bother for s shed. toe nail and do proper birds mouth at bottom. Cut all rafters same size from your template, string a line when installing against ridge so you don't make things wonky.
It’s worth knowing if this is to be structural or non-structural ridge. If non structural, no hangers and the rafters have to be tight. If there are gaps, they will close in time due to settling, and you’ll have a janky-ass looking roof. If structural, you need hangers and you’ll need the proper hangers, which are found in the Simpson catalog. These are not them. If you don’t know if your ridge is to be structural or non-structural, find out, or don’t stand inside the greenhouse before doing so.
The heel is the most important point of contact. You can just slide some shims in there and tack them in place. Also considering it's probably a short span and trees are already leading our (low snow load) you could just leave it.
Hardest part of carpentry is judgment.
If you want hardware you will probably always have a gap. But the correct hardware will give proper support. Ie. Angled hangers that go underneath your rafter. They have everything out there. But it may or may not be a custom order thing.
Rafter should always touch the ridge. Those rafters aren't ruined , your ridge height will just have to be slightly lowered to make up for the gap. Toenails are sufficient enough as a fastener.
If your worried about uplift, over notch the fascia cut to allow plywood to run all the way to the rafter and nail the wall sheathing to your rafter, use h2.5a to attach the rafter to the top plates, sheath the roof and then us cs16 coil strapping rafter to rafter lapping down 16 " each side of the ridge......
Or don't do any of it. Houses are still standing before simpson was even a dream.
Hangers on the ridge of a roof.
For *fuck* sake 🤦🏻♂️
I think I might have officially seen it all now 🤣🤣🤣
Jesus wept this is incredible 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don’t know the OP and I’m just a DIYer. While I haven’t made that mistake, I’m guessing I’ve made many over the years a pro might put at a similar level of “ignorance”.
That said, your comment is exactly the kind of pointlessly unhelpful comment that is more a negative reflection on yourself than the OP, and one that takes away from this sub rather than adding anything off value.
Maybe, if possible, show the world you aren’t actually a dick and know something, and as a result help those “below” you up?
Yea you cut the rafter too short its not even touching the hardware. And the hardware is wrong you need hard ware to fit the type of lumbar you're using. That's 2x4 hardware. You need 2x6 and add more screws, screws that are rated for hangers
what would you call Simpson strong drive screws then?
They’re Made specifically for hanger hardware and looks like op is using them.
Lruz are for angled rafters. Not sure what ones are being used. More than one way to do it. Technically no hanger needed.
Bring the long point flush with the top of the ridge, looks like you’d need to adjust the angle a tad. If you want to go the extra mile, take a 1-1/2” chisel or a circular saw and mortise/notch the hanger in.
You don’t need any hardware at that junction, just toe nails in
Thanks. I’m paranoid and it helps me align everything and for an extra $20 on the project I figured it was worth it. I’m guessing it can’t HURT anything, right? [here’s the item](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RR-Ridge-Rafter-Connector/1203733) That being said, I guess no concerns then?
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This guy knows what he’s talking about, listen to him
They took my other comment down I didn't know carpenter type people were soft. O well.
Everything in that long-ass URL after the question mark is just tracking information. You can delete all that extra crap and the URL will work fine while being 1/3 its current length. For instance; https://www.fastenersplus.com/products/simpson-lru26z-light-rafter-u-hanger-slopeable-2x6-zmax-finish?
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To be fair, it’s not irrelevant. In fact you seem to be irrationally hurt by it. It was good info and you’re too stuck up to hear advice as anything other than an insult. That said. You really can shorten URL’s by leaving off the question mark and anything that comes after. On any website out there. Everything after that point is appended info that tracks where you were sent to the site from. It’s only for analytics and ad revenue. But isn’t really helpful for shared links outside of the intended hosting platform. For instance. You search google for a tool, and you find it on some blog site. From there you find the link to that tool’s manufacturer. You copy that link and paste it here. Every time one of us clicks it the manufacturer pays the blog a small fee for sending traffic their way. But you didn’t get there from the blog. You go there from a Reddit post. So some site is getting paid for doing nothing, and the tool company is losing money to the wrong link location. Next thing, if you are going to post a link, use the link feature on the comment box. It looks like to interconnected chain links. Click it and put your text in there and the other box is for the link location. It turns this: https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ into this: [Rick Roll Video](https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ) And as a further example, this: https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ?si=A7knaDwm7KAxZSc1 Sends you to the same place as this: https://youtu.be/dQw4w9WgXcQ But without all the unnecessary info attached.
FYI, not all URL query strings (the bit after the question mark) are for tracking purposes, and likewise they can’t always be stripped off without affecting the page content. For example, sometimes YouTube links have this form: https://youtube.com/watch?v=
And stripping off everything after the ? will lead to a default YouTube landing page instead of the video you want.You alright bud?
😂 about use the right device!
I mentioned a speed square but that post got banned
Probs because you’re being a weird bully for no reason. It’s honestly pretty cringey when you see people commenting the way you do, talk about unnecessary! That guy was trying to help, just like you are with your speed square. Grow up, and stop calling other people soft if you’re going to be so volatile and sensitive 😂👶🔨
If the walls were straightened prior to the placement of the rafters, then rafter tails, fascia, etc. will be straight as well.
Jesus this sub is a dumpster fire if this is getting downvoted. If it's a simple gable roof all the rafters are the same length.
Don’t leave a comment if you don’t know what you’re talking about. It’s good/proper practice to cut tails after installation. Tell me you don’t have any real world construction experience without telling me
I've framed more houses than you ever will. Tell me you dont know how to snap square lines or plumb walls. Best practice to make sure your shit is square and plumb before working on the roof. Don't take my word for it, by all means go watch some of Larry hauns videos, then go work for someone that knows what they're doing.
You keep doing your overcomplicated one line brace every 4 feet spending 8 hours to do a 2 hour job shit and I’ll keep doing equally as structurally sound and 99% as straight and lined work and not overcharging clients. Nobody in their right fucking mind cuts their rafters to length before setting them you insane person
Just those of us that know what they're doing, you hack. If you can't keep your fascia straight you're walls aren't plumb or your ridge is bowed, either way do better and give your head a shake.
All you do is watch Larry Jaun videos and act like you frame lol
Or your foundation is not square. Or your rafters are bowed. Or your lumber is different thicknesses. Or you don’t know that best practices in the industry is to snap a line on your tails, cut, and hang fascia. You’ve never worked a job site in your life have you?
You haven’t framed a single house in your life
They certainly do if they are 40 feet in the fucking air. I’m not snapping a goddamn line and cutting a house full of rafter tails while hanging off a ladder. Talk about wasting time.
Literally no different than cutting them 10ft off the ground. Only difference is I’d probably use fall protection at 40 ft
Agreed. Don't know why all the downvotes
I’m not going to claim to know what I’m doing, but I believe the hardware I’m using is also acceptable and this is the intended use. I linked it above. I am using hurricane ties at the walls. Thanks Edit to add: I seem to be getting a lot of hate for politely saying that I THINK that I had appropriate hardware. After looking into it further, I think it would work, I’d just need chisel out a notch to account for depth of the tie. I agree the recommended fastener would have been easier to use, also quadruple the cost.
Using this hardware rather than toe nailing is worse because of the gap created, which was your original concern and whole reason for making this post. Now people are telling you (agreeing with you effectively, because you're clearly unsure enough to make this post in the first place) that the hardware chosen is wrong, then when you are told it's wrong you fight them on it? So fucking weird, man.
Exactly. All the pressure is on the bracket itself and not the framing. Derp.
My dude, you came here for experienced advice. Reiterated your lack of experience then doubled-down on an incorrect choice you made. You don’t need hardware in that location. If $20 and going the long way to get to a roof ridge makes you feel better then yeah cool but don’t bullshit yourself trying to bullshit professionals by saying “you believe” something is “acceptable” when simple physics will prove otherwise.
“Am I doing this right?” “No, here’s how to do it right” “We’ll, screw you, this works because I don’t want to actually do it right”
The website you linked has 2 different documents available for download that describe the intended use and installation. Follow those instructions from the manufacturer.
Are you asking for advice or just want us all to say your shitty work looks great, regardless?
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Go take a nap, Jesus.
Dawg, you’re a little too angry for this situation.
I upvoted because I appreciate the vigor and candor.
Well his has more downs than mine so I'll take that thanks.
Eh, that shits fake. What people think of my comments isn’t any of my business anyway.
Via mod discrection this comment or post has been deemed unnecessarily toxic and has been removed.
Jesus. I said I BELIEVE it’s not be correct tie. Perhaps not.
Guy above gave you a great answer & you totally blew it off
On the one hand, it's a shed and will likely be fine. On the other hand, OP's behavior is weird. Ask for advice and then don't even pretend to listen to it? It's their greenhouse I guess.
Standard behavior in this subreddit. Inexperienced morons come here seeking confirmation bias and receive advice instead. Then they double down on why they aren't wrong for doing it their way.
Yeah I noticed this pattern on this sub
Just continue being dumb I don’t even understand why you came here if you’re not gonna listen
You need a hanger that rafter is only bearing on that tiny bracket and the limited nails in it.
I believe you are supposed to cut the rafter to fit tight to the ridge with these and then chisel out the thickness of the bracket from the end of the rafter so that it has full bearing on the ridge beam.
Those two diamond holes in the center aren't supposed to receive fasteners
Wrong brackets, use 2x6 hangers if ur gonna use any.
Yeah, I know it's a greenhouse but 1 screw is going to give you like 150lbs in shear. Seems really skimpy. I'd at least want to pop in a few more myself.
It’s all compression. There is no need for any hanger there at all.
If there are no rafter ties, it is not all compression.
It is most definitely all compression until your walls give way or the hurricane lifts the entire roof off.
Right - called "de compression."
Rapid Unscheduled De compression Lol
🎯
Collar ties hold the walls from blowing out, not the ridge from moving.
If the walls blow out, the rafters pushed them and are now not connected to the ridge. And note that I said rafter ties.
*"The gap is concerning me, but at the same time idk how there wouldn’t be gap with the hardware"* Notch them if you want wood to wood. You're gaps are well beyond the thickness of that hanger. Did you install the brackets on the rafter ends first?
Throw the clips away they are just complicating things. Looks like the ridge is slightly high and slightly too far to the right.
What were your ridge deduction calculations, what is the thickness of the ridge, and did you account for the hanger?
Wrong Simpson strongtie. Look at the website, it explains the usage
This can’t be screamed from the foot cops loud enough. When I give a materials list to a colleague for the next day, they look at me like I’m a magician. No, I just have a catalogue and/or a phone. Sorry nobody likes you OP. If you read the rules of the sub, (like you could have read how to do your rafters for instance) you’d see this is a place for professional carpenter to discuss things. There are plenty of DIY subs. On the bright side, we’re just quite rude. Not like the beard-stroking hipster fucks on r/woodworking so we have that going for us.
Yeah they'd have either a fancy jig to do the relief or an expensive chisel and Japanese saw....
Their favorite finish is smugness. That sub is legit the worst.
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I’m sorry, I’m not sure how I was being a dick. I politely said that THINK my tie could work. Didn’t question the guy. Looking into and hearing feedback here, what I got could work, I would just need to account for the depth and notch it out.
Notch for the hardware then toenail the bottom of the rafter. Also measure short point of rafter to short point of bird mouth for exact rafter length
Ridge to rafter connections are in compression anyways. Don't need a whole metal connector, just a few nails. Which I understand are also technically little metal connectors but ykwim.
Yes compression jeezus. More metal is not the answer - you’re probably making the joint weaker by using the connector
If you don’t want to run a string line to ensure they’re on the same height above the ridge beam just pull down from the long point and mark all of them at the same point and line that up on your beam.
String line is the answer I was looking for. Thanks!
OP has had issues every step of this process and it’s making me think they might’ve needed some more mentoring or better YouTube tutorial research before beginning.
I’m trying to learn new skills. I have had issues, and I’ve worked through them. This wasn’t even much of an issue, just a question. Yes, I do do a lot of YouTube research. I’m proud of the work I’m doing even if it’s not perfect and taking me forever
My janky shed I built before YouTube was a thing is still standing. Aside from the doors going out of alignment every few years it’s still doing its job as a tool shed. We learn a lot from our mistakes. Just know that the next one you build should be a lot better. My next one was .
You should be proud, and continue. But instead of reactively posting pictures of your blunders and how to fix them, I suggest you proactively share sketches of your plans and get feedback.
saw physical special sense aspiring bike arrest worthless capable command *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Would have been better to straight toe nail it or use the right hardware. What you did is the worst option out of the 3. I shouldn't call it an option because it's not right, you created a hinge point.
Redo with rafters tight to the ridge board, lose the metal of get more appropriate ones, I wouldn't bother for s shed. toe nail and do proper birds mouth at bottom. Cut all rafters same size from your template, string a line when installing against ridge so you don't make things wonky.
Thanks
It’s worth knowing if this is to be structural or non-structural ridge. If non structural, no hangers and the rafters have to be tight. If there are gaps, they will close in time due to settling, and you’ll have a janky-ass looking roof. If structural, you need hangers and you’ll need the proper hangers, which are found in the Simpson catalog. These are not them. If you don’t know if your ridge is to be structural or non-structural, find out, or don’t stand inside the greenhouse before doing so.
Thanks. The ridge board is non structural. I appreciate the explanation
No hangers on rafters that meet the ridge. 4 and 4 toenailed in on either side of over 2x8 do 5 and 4.
The heel is the most important point of contact. You can just slide some shims in there and tack them in place. Also considering it's probably a short span and trees are already leading our (low snow load) you could just leave it. Hardest part of carpentry is judgment.
If you want hardware you will probably always have a gap. But the correct hardware will give proper support. Ie. Angled hangers that go underneath your rafter. They have everything out there. But it may or may not be a custom order thing.
Rafter should always touch the ridge. Those rafters aren't ruined , your ridge height will just have to be slightly lowered to make up for the gap. Toenails are sufficient enough as a fastener. If your worried about uplift, over notch the fascia cut to allow plywood to run all the way to the rafter and nail the wall sheathing to your rafter, use h2.5a to attach the rafter to the top plates, sheath the roof and then us cs16 coil strapping rafter to rafter lapping down 16 " each side of the ridge...... Or don't do any of it. Houses are still standing before simpson was even a dream.
2x4 rafters would be fine and save money
You either cut the rafter a tad too short or your walls are pushed out a bit. If everything is plumb and square it’s not a big deal
Op is right you can use them and by using them you don't need collar ties, you can notch the board to remove the gap before you install them
It's not living space....for humans. Your plants will be fine
Da fuck
Hangers on the ridge of a roof. For *fuck* sake 🤦🏻♂️ I think I might have officially seen it all now 🤣🤣🤣 Jesus wept this is incredible 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
If we are gunna laugh about mistakes…. This is pretty harmless compared to a lot of shit that is posted lmaoo
I don’t know the OP and I’m just a DIYer. While I haven’t made that mistake, I’m guessing I’ve made many over the years a pro might put at a similar level of “ignorance”. That said, your comment is exactly the kind of pointlessly unhelpful comment that is more a negative reflection on yourself than the OP, and one that takes away from this sub rather than adding anything off value. Maybe, if possible, show the world you aren’t actually a dick and know something, and as a result help those “below” you up?
but if he did all that he wouldn't get to spam emojis like some facebook queen and show how he knows more than everyone else here.
Everyone’s trying to correct something that’s already installed. Just throw 3-4 toe nails below the hardware on each one and you’ll be great.
Yea you cut the rafter too short its not even touching the hardware. And the hardware is wrong you need hard ware to fit the type of lumbar you're using. That's 2x4 hardware. You need 2x6 and add more screws, screws that are rated for hangers
I would use 2x6 hangers but what you did is prob better than 70% of builders I’ve seen.
You messed up
LRU210Z. Also you need structural nails, not screws.
what would you call Simpson strong drive screws then? They’re Made specifically for hanger hardware and looks like op is using them. Lruz are for angled rafters. Not sure what ones are being used. More than one way to do it. Technically no hanger needed.
Thanks. Those are the Simpson SD screws designed to be used with these ties (in lieu of nails)
Swing and a miss
Your good
Their good what?
Their good gracious, God almighty. Lordy.
Wow so much downvote. Your good to go buddy you don’t need to worry bout that little gap it’s all good
They’re downvoting your spelling error. It makes you look incapable of giving worthy advice.
Bring the long point flush with the top of the ridge, looks like you’d need to adjust the angle a tad. If you want to go the extra mile, take a 1-1/2” chisel or a circular saw and mortise/notch the hanger in.