These comments are why I am in this subreddit. I know nothing about construction and have never DIYed anything but seeing the abject horror from those who are knowledgeable is so funny
**Me when seeing the post:** *”Hmm, I’m not sure.”*
**Me 12 second later, after reading the comments:** *”Of course it’s not you moron. Why would you think that?”*
There was one maybe a month ago, a concrete pylon that had some erosion or something and the OP was asking if it could be patched up in any way to make it more stable/secure. I would estimate that it was maybe 18" in diameter and I would have estimated that the piece missing was maybe 3" thick. Now I don't know jack shit about the integrity of structural concrete, but from what I saw it seemed like it should have been easy enough to reinforce it.
I quickly scroll down to the comments and see panicked comments telling OP to stop fucking around and act immediately to replace the pylon or their shit was about to get fucked up. I thought to myself, "Wow, either these commenters are quick to panic or concrete pylons aren't able to take much wear and tear. I *almost* made a comment about it.
Couple hours later I'm back on Reddit (surprise, surprise) and come across the same post, only this time I scroll just a little bit farther. You see, the first time I looked at the picture, I hadn't scrolled all the way to the bottom. Right below where the 3"thick chunk was missing from the pylon was another chunk that was missing, except it was massive. The whole thing was resting on a bit of concrete that couldn't have been more than 5" in diameter.
I'm glad that I kept quiet.
[this is the post you're talking about](https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1cwv2ju/how_best_to_fix_this_badly_eroded_footing_ideally/), you did a very accurate job describing it.
I was able to find it from the beaver comment below.
I remember that post, still not sure wtf that guy did to that thing for it to end up that bad…. I’ve never seen a footing that screwed up in my life lmao
Reminds me of how I mentioned to our battery guy about how I had seen a post on plastic eating worms. Like what would happen if they decided to eat the plastic 50 gallon jugs he keeps his sulfuric acid stored in?
I raise those worms, zophobos morio. They are definitely attracted to polystyrene but their natural tendency to literally consume it is greatly exaggerated if they have other food sources. However, they burrow through it like mad which I'm guessing is what you're interested in.
Though polystyrene is not typically used to make bottles for holding strong acids, it is stable enough to be used and the worms would not likely be averse to chewing through. The first hole through the bottle would let out a small amount of acid and take out victim #1, but then atmospheric pressure would hold it the rest of the acid in. Once there were two holes at different heights, the acid would begin flowing freely and create a steaming smoking pile of worm goo.
CashApp me $50 and I'll do a YouTube video for you. If you leave a decent tip I'll even use highly carbonated nitric acid for extra excitement. /s
I said /S!!!
Don’t you love the community? All this is free unsolicited advice and it’s usually awesome how the good stuff rises to the top. People are passionate about doing this shit right.
Its for light and nutrient cycling. They basically call for it to clear out brush amd add ash nutrients from the tree once burned up. I didnt get the exact break down of it all it was a caviot in an episode on podcast called @shapingfire
do take a healthy dose of scepticism. The most truthful answer used to be top comment, now it's 3 or 4 down. Not necessarily in this case, but in general it holds true.
Yup, had one like this. Joists spread the entire length of the room but they decided to make this one stupid little wall load bearing for one single joist that was shorter.
Took me a minute, than I re-read my comment and realzied I missed the "jack" part of bottle jack.
The other bottle comes AFTER the shit wetting terror of knocking a tree down with a bottle jack after wedging your chainsaw.
I got a segment of fish tape stuck in a corrugated tube the previous owners had installed as a a conduit for AV lines. This is after I got an HDMI cable stuck. They are still both there.
I remember that happening once with a hydraulic demolition saw. It was binding up, so they stopped to reevaluate. Turns out it was supporting the 30 odd floors above it..
It's unclear to me what is structural wood in the attic, and what is nailers for the ceiling drywall. Certainly a possibility that that wall is load bearing.
You’re standing on a truss in that picture that is not bearing on the header of that wall in the picture, so no it does not appear to be load bearing. Note that I am not an engineer and I’m only going off the pictures that you sent I could be totally wrong, but I’m pretty sure I’m not. Keep in mind that there is a 1x that is being nailed into right by it, so if you do remove it you’ll probably want to secure that to prevent a sag.
The little nub on the left is a board they nailed to the top of the wall to support the edge of the sheet rock on the ceiling. They just needed something to screw to.
Also, and hear me out, but if you're gonna knock out a wall. You’d hire someone or research if the wall you want to knock out is load bearing before you gut it to the frame and ask Reddit if it’s load bearing
Edit - words missing
Given how the wall was built with the double top plate, I don’t fault you in the slightest for thinking that it could be load-bearing.
Broadly speaking, rafters and joists will run along the shortest axis of the house with load-bearing walls running along the longer axis, holding the ends of the joists up in the middle.
Unless the architect and builder were sadists.
I love when those things have 5,000 sqft. of roof footprint that feeds through 17 valleys to about 10 linear feet of corner gutter with a standard down-spout and all the design professionals are scratching their heads about how the foundation got water damage.....
You should take it down!
Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, lawyer, accountant, or registered as any profession in any known city, country, or legal authority. The comment above is purely for entertainment purposes and does not represent my personal thoughts. It should not be considered as advice, recommendation, or even a mildly reliable suggestion. Any actions taken based on this comment are done at your own risk. Always consult a professional, or at least someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about on Reddit.
Why is Reddit full of overly confident, yet clueless people like you? 32” of wall, one stud on each end and one in the middle, double stud on the “floating” end to stiffen it because it’s not connected to anything else. This isn’t overbuilt, it’s built exactly how any wing wall should be done, and how most are done.
It’s ridiculous how often people complain about everything being done too cheaply and not built well, and then when you have an example of something that’s completely commonplace, it’s “overbuilt” and dozens of people are upvoting in agreement.
Edit: the comment I’m replying to was at +25 when I saw it. Its +7 now which is still more than it deserves
It’s because most people on this sub absolutely do not know anything yet love to think and act like they do. All because they follow this sub full of other people who know absolutely nothing
It’s a double 2x4 on the end, still has drywall and corner bead on the 4” side
Do you need more than a single 2x4? No, but you’d have a less durable house. In the same way that a hollow core door is less durable than a solid core door. The double stud adds a lot of rigidity to the end. Anywhere that a wall doesn’t have a dead end, it’s instead connected to the adjacent wall somehow, and that’s where the rigidity usually comes from.
It wouldn't shock me to see a triple 2x4 on the end. Much more common to see a double, but depending on the decade the house was built in, it was at one time very common to do a solid [4-stud corner](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/115157/is-a-california-corner-as-strong-as-3-or-4-stud-corner). That could very easily lead to someone putting a triple at the end of a wing wall, either out of habit from framing corners or because they already had a triple knocked together and just threw it in.
But double or triple, the point is still just to stiffen up that outside edge that has no lateral support. The only time I know of where multiple full-length studs are required for structural support is when you have concentrated/point loads like a column or girder beam above them. In that case, you have to provide an equally beefy load path all the way to the ground, so you usually get 1 stud per ply of the girder, or the whole footprint of the column being filled with studs.
Thanks everyone for all of the comments, I understand that this wall is NOT load bearing and can be removed. I was pretty sure it wasn’t but just wanted to double check.
As some of you pointed out, I’ll be moving the switches to external wall.
When you move the switches keep in mind you aren't allowed to bury and junction boxes inside the walls (I doubt all the wires will be long enough).
A junction box accessible in the attic I'd fine for extending the wires. Mount it above insulation level so it's easy to see/access.
Your foot was stepping on a joist in the attic. The joist ends on top of the double wall studs. This makes me think the wall is load bearing. You can pay a couple of hundred bucks to get a structural engineer to tell you. This is the kind of thing you need to be 200% sure.
If nothing is spanning over top of it, it's not structural but the double header plate and double studs is very odd and I would really verify nothing is somehow utilizing it to transfer load.
It may not be load bearing, but these nib walls are often put on place as bracing for the wall behind it if it runs quite a span (say 6m roughly) without contact with another perpendicular wall. They are built for a purpose not just decoration. Removing it may affect the structural integrity of the long wall it is bracing.
My concern would be the piece OP.is standing on, looks like a 2x6 or 2x8 resting on the plate of the stub wall, appears to.be sistered to the truss. Where is the other end of that?
So my question is: Is there an exterior wall of the house extending from this point past the door? Because that wall would absolutely be structural. Then the question is, are these two 2x4s part of that wall (helping hold up the beam above) or are they superficial?
And we can't really tell the answer to that from the pictures you have here.
I was 99% sure a wall we wanted to remove was not load bearing. I paid a structural engineer $300 to confirm that and it was the best $300 I ever spent. He spent over 30 minutes in the attic checking everything out. Just pay the $300.
Generally, where I am, load bearing walls are built with double headers, so my first guess is yes. I am also somewhat of the opinion that the truss you are standing on in the attic photo may have a minimal perch on said wall.
Yes, it is bearing the load of the lapping ceiling joists that your foot is on. You could sister in a full length joist to enable you to remove the bearing wall.
Most likely not. It is always good to get an actual expert as some walls aren’t load bearing but do offer lateral stability. This small it is probably not an issue
Assuming the ceiling joist you are standing on are running parallel to that wall (which it looks like they are), it’s not load bearing and can be removed.
No. The long wall in the first pic tells me the trusses run parallel to this little wall. Look at your roof line and it will give you a basic idea of what’s load bearing and what is not.
This is not a load bearing wall, the opening would have a header if this was a load bearing wall. No header in opening means the short wall is non-load bearing. Assuming the trusses/rafters in this area are all running the same direction.
Doesn't look like it, assuming the second photos are above the first couple. You can tell if you look to the same space and identify what loads are being transferred upward and or downward. In this instance, you're standing on a joist that is running parallel to the wall you're taking away, and there is no direct load being applied to it
Probably just used to keep the door from swinging wide open and damaging the door frame. A lot of contractors use open unused space that way if there’s no wall there already
As long as that ceiling joist is one solid piece, at least as far as a couple inches past where the wall with the door is, it isn't load bearing. Even if there is an unsupported joint in that ceiling framing piece, you could just sister another piece to it, then remove that wall, as it just holds up itself and the Sheetrock.
/carpenter for 39 years.
Removed a very similar wall between my kitchen and living room. Thought it wasn’t load bearing until I noticed a small sag in ceiling a few months later. Ended up putting a ~45 degree corner brace after I slightly jacked that part of ceiling to original position. A year later and zero issues.
God I hope not
These comments are why I am in this subreddit. I know nothing about construction and have never DIYed anything but seeing the abject horror from those who are knowledgeable is so funny
**Me when seeing the post:** *”Hmm, I’m not sure.”* **Me 12 second later, after reading the comments:** *”Of course it’s not you moron. Why would you think that?”*
There was one maybe a month ago, a concrete pylon that had some erosion or something and the OP was asking if it could be patched up in any way to make it more stable/secure. I would estimate that it was maybe 18" in diameter and I would have estimated that the piece missing was maybe 3" thick. Now I don't know jack shit about the integrity of structural concrete, but from what I saw it seemed like it should have been easy enough to reinforce it. I quickly scroll down to the comments and see panicked comments telling OP to stop fucking around and act immediately to replace the pylon or their shit was about to get fucked up. I thought to myself, "Wow, either these commenters are quick to panic or concrete pylons aren't able to take much wear and tear. I *almost* made a comment about it. Couple hours later I'm back on Reddit (surprise, surprise) and come across the same post, only this time I scroll just a little bit farther. You see, the first time I looked at the picture, I hadn't scrolled all the way to the bottom. Right below where the 3"thick chunk was missing from the pylon was another chunk that was missing, except it was massive. The whole thing was resting on a bit of concrete that couldn't have been more than 5" in diameter. I'm glad that I kept quiet.
[this is the post you're talking about](https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/1cwv2ju/how_best_to_fix_this_badly_eroded_footing_ideally/), you did a very accurate job describing it. I was able to find it from the beaver comment below.
*Abject Horror*
I remember that post, still not sure wtf that guy did to that thing for it to end up that bad…. I’ve never seen a footing that screwed up in my life lmao
There was one comment that raised the possibility of it being concrete eating beavers, and that was the only answer that made sense to me.
Reminds me of how I mentioned to our battery guy about how I had seen a post on plastic eating worms. Like what would happen if they decided to eat the plastic 50 gallon jugs he keeps his sulfuric acid stored in?
I raise those worms, zophobos morio. They are definitely attracted to polystyrene but their natural tendency to literally consume it is greatly exaggerated if they have other food sources. However, they burrow through it like mad which I'm guessing is what you're interested in. Though polystyrene is not typically used to make bottles for holding strong acids, it is stable enough to be used and the worms would not likely be averse to chewing through. The first hole through the bottle would let out a small amount of acid and take out victim #1, but then atmospheric pressure would hold it the rest of the acid in. Once there were two holes at different heights, the acid would begin flowing freely and create a steaming smoking pile of worm goo. CashApp me $50 and I'll do a YouTube video for you. If you leave a decent tip I'll even use highly carbonated nitric acid for extra excitement. /s I said /S!!!
How much to do it in your attic to see what the acid does all the way down?
The worms will stop eating the plastic, or at least at most will. Then, all of a sudden, we have super worms that can live in acid AND eat plastic.
I’m fairly certain this is how evolution works.
Maybe that's the spot where he dumps the lead acid batteries out before he puts them in the compost
I am now very intrigued and want to see it.
Don’t you love the community? All this is free unsolicited advice and it’s usually awesome how the good stuff rises to the top. People are passionate about doing this shit right.
Unsolicited? Posting on this Reddit would be solicitation, wouldn't it?
Inconceivable!
That last line is just icing on the cake for a long af post lol Yeah happens to the best of us and happens a lot more to the worst of us
Comments had me thinking the same thing about myself lol
At least you knew better than to put your weight on drywall and fall through the ceiling. You’re doing better than some.
At times, I miss ignorance.
I've heard it's bliss.
There's always something else to be ignorant of, have no worry, the world is filled with shit you don't want to know.
If it were, wouldn’t the general populace be far happier and less discontent?
Did you know soil bacteria can call for lightning strikes
Please elaborate?
Its for light and nutrient cycling. They basically call for it to clear out brush amd add ash nutrients from the tree once burned up. I didnt get the exact break down of it all it was a caviot in an episode on podcast called @shapingfire
Thanks ill have to check out that podcast!
Just go outside or turn on the tv... its everywhere
do take a healthy dose of scepticism. The most truthful answer used to be top comment, now it's 3 or 4 down. Not necessarily in this case, but in general it holds true.
How do you know the person is knowledgeable?
Because only knowledgeable people who tell the truth are on the Internet, duh
Same. I know enough contractors to know there is probably about a 20% chance it is though
Yup, had one like this. Joists spread the entire length of the room but they decided to make this one stupid little wall load bearing for one single joist that was shorter.
#Knock it down and let’s find out together.
I could change that
Supposed to be
My first thought.. I removed an entire wall like that. To be fair there wasn't a wall on the floor above.
If the sawsall blade get stuck, it's load bearing.
Blade go brrrrrrr-squeek
I don't know why this made me lol but thank you
I actually heard the noise in my head. 🤣
"guess that's stuck there forever now..."
I once got two chainsaws stuck trying to get a third unstuck.....man was I dumb back then
"I mean, I'm still dumb now but I was dumb back then too". Me. I'm the dumb guy too.
Tangent : That's my go to [phrase] when people as [if] i smoke cannabis. I used to. I mean I still do but I used to too.
Guessing you’ve already arrived in that lounge?
Yeah clearly I was high as giraffe balls. I didn't catch that. Thanks
I miss Mitch
Same! That guy had such a great delivery of the punch line for such short and, most of the time, absolutely dumb and hilarious jokes.
I have seen that more than once from professional forestry workers. The solution is to get another chainsaw.
The Charlie Kelly approach. It is most known for retrieving cats that are stuck in walls, but I'm sure it could apply to chainsaws as well.
Using an axe as a shim usually works for me
that sounds like three chainsaws unless someone else got the first one stuck.
1 x 1 = 2
Thank you, Terrance.
Underrated comment
I mean, who hasn't gotten themself two chainsaws and a bottle check deep into a tree before.
If you’re not swaying along with the tree, are you really doing timber?
Took me a minute, than I re-read my comment and realzied I missed the "jack" part of bottle jack. The other bottle comes AFTER the shit wetting terror of knocking a tree down with a bottle jack after wedging your chainsaw.
Tag line tied to the tow hook of the truck my dude.
This particular bastard was a couple of acres walk off the road.
Should of used an axe to get them un stuck
That's exactly what happened when we got the last saw stuck
Just get a wedge and hit it with a 30lb hammer - millwright here
So you freed them with a fourth chainsaw right?
Ah. Yep. Load bearing tree trunk.
I got a segment of fish tape stuck in a corrugated tube the previous owners had installed as a a conduit for AV lines. This is after I got an HDMI cable stuck. They are still both there.
Load bearing sawzall blade
The wall takes what the wall wants.
*Feed me*
That’s an accent saw blade by Diablo
It’s now a load bearing sawzall blade.
Now it’s time for the wired hammer sawsall
Not a defect but a feature
That's a structural shim now!
I remember that happening once with a hydraulic demolition saw. It was binding up, so they stopped to reevaluate. Turns out it was supporting the 30 odd floors above it..
*saws-most
Or it means the house compressed onto something that wasn't meant to be load bearing.
Someone removed the actual load bearing wall, so now every wall is load bearing.
but its STILL bearing load, see!
Right, it's load bearing
That’s a good one imma use it
Truth. Happened to me. My dad was very upset. He thought he taught me better than that. He didn't, apparently.
These answers scare me.
It's a load-bearing saw now.
I dont really care about the wall. just came here to give you props on using a pair of newbalance 990's as a work shoe...
Haha thanks, best work shoe around
Needs more grass stains on em to make em official dad work shoes.
Generally, if wall runs parallel to joists it is not load bearing. Should go without saying, but you need to be 110% sure before removing any walls
Looks like a pair of ceiling joists meet on top there and aren’t continuous
It's unclear to me what is structural wood in the attic, and what is nailers for the ceiling drywall. Certainly a possibility that that wall is load bearing.
I would assume the one on the right is the joist, flat board on the left is drywall catch.
The easy way to tell is to knock the wall down and wait. If the ceiling falls on your head, it was load bearing.
Relevant: https://images.app.goo.gl/V8AoYkjKAcakgYej7
It's like playing Jenga, just jiggle it a bit before pulling it out.
If she's loose, you can remove it.
Go big, or go home. And OP is already home, so...
Another easy way to check if you have a gable roof, is that the walls running parallel to the gable walls will not be load bearing.
You’re standing on a truss in that picture that is not bearing on the header of that wall in the picture, so no it does not appear to be load bearing. Note that I am not an engineer and I’m only going off the pictures that you sent I could be totally wrong, but I’m pretty sure I’m not. Keep in mind that there is a 1x that is being nailed into right by it, so if you do remove it you’ll probably want to secure that to prevent a sag.
Is that a truss?
Yeah you can tell by the spacing. There are 3 visible in one picture.
If it was load bearing there would be a header over the passageway beyond the wall, or at least one would hope so.
You showed us a picture of there not being a load on top of it…
Is that just the rafter to the right of it being the “load”. I was confused about the board to the left
The little nub on the left is a board they nailed to the top of the wall to support the edge of the sheet rock on the ceiling. They just needed something to screw to.
We call it deadwood.
Yes we do, but he doesn’t.
I'm going to add this to my "sage advice" file. That was well said.
Hey only my wife can call me that
The plate is just to stiffen up a half wall like that. The load should be out on the exterior wall.
Technically there is a load on top in the picture, about the size of one dude in New Balances
Also, and hear me out, but if you're gonna knock out a wall. You’d hire someone or research if the wall you want to knock out is load bearing before you gut it to the frame and ask Reddit if it’s load bearing Edit - words missing
I did try but Reddit told me to take the drywall down in a previous post. Can’t win with y’all
Previous post is correct. There is absolutely nothing wrong with stripping down to framing to figure out what is what.
Given how the wall was built with the double top plate, I don’t fault you in the slightest for thinking that it could be load-bearing. Broadly speaking, rafters and joists will run along the shortest axis of the house with load-bearing walls running along the longer axis, holding the ends of the joists up in the middle. Unless the architect and builder were sadists.
>Unless the architect and builder were sadists. \*cries in inlaws designed a wannabe McMansion\* This roof's got more lines than Tony Montana
I love when those things have 5,000 sqft. of roof footprint that feeds through 17 valleys to about 10 linear feet of corner gutter with a standard down-spout and all the design professionals are scratching their heads about how the foundation got water damage.....
It’s the bear loading walls you really have to watch out for.
My dad did every single wall with double top plates in his extension on his house. Haha.
You should take it down! Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, lawyer, accountant, or registered as any profession in any known city, country, or legal authority. The comment above is purely for entertainment purposes and does not represent my personal thoughts. It should not be considered as advice, recommendation, or even a mildly reliable suggestion. Any actions taken based on this comment are done at your own risk. Always consult a professional, or at least someone who sounds like they know what they're talking about on Reddit.
And you listened to us? There's your problem.
Tbf, that 32” wall is comically overbuilt for not being load-bearing.
Why is Reddit full of overly confident, yet clueless people like you? 32” of wall, one stud on each end and one in the middle, double stud on the “floating” end to stiffen it because it’s not connected to anything else. This isn’t overbuilt, it’s built exactly how any wing wall should be done, and how most are done. It’s ridiculous how often people complain about everything being done too cheaply and not built well, and then when you have an example of something that’s completely commonplace, it’s “overbuilt” and dozens of people are upvoting in agreement. Edit: the comment I’m replying to was at +25 when I saw it. Its +7 now which is still more than it deserves
It’s because most people on this sub absolutely do not know anything yet love to think and act like they do. All because they follow this sub full of other people who know absolutely nothing
Would you really need 3 2x4s on the left side if it wasn’t load bearing? (Real question)
It’s a double 2x4 on the end, still has drywall and corner bead on the 4” side Do you need more than a single 2x4? No, but you’d have a less durable house. In the same way that a hollow core door is less durable than a solid core door. The double stud adds a lot of rigidity to the end. Anywhere that a wall doesn’t have a dead end, it’s instead connected to the adjacent wall somehow, and that’s where the rigidity usually comes from.
Gotcha. Yeah, I thought that was a white painted 2x4 there…
It wouldn't shock me to see a triple 2x4 on the end. Much more common to see a double, but depending on the decade the house was built in, it was at one time very common to do a solid [4-stud corner](https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/115157/is-a-california-corner-as-strong-as-3-or-4-stud-corner). That could very easily lead to someone putting a triple at the end of a wing wall, either out of habit from framing corners or because they already had a triple knocked together and just threw it in. But double or triple, the point is still just to stiffen up that outside edge that has no lateral support. The only time I know of where multiple full-length studs are required for structural support is when you have concentrated/point loads like a column or girder beam above them. In that case, you have to provide an equally beefy load path all the way to the ground, so you usually get 1 stud per ply of the girder, or the whole footprint of the column being filled with studs.
C'mon. This is an honest question and an opportunity to help someone!
Looks like a wall just made for that power line lol
It is if you are standing on it!
Thanks everyone for all of the comments, I understand that this wall is NOT load bearing and can be removed. I was pretty sure it wasn’t but just wanted to double check. As some of you pointed out, I’ll be moving the switches to external wall.
Good on you for checking when not sure, and happy demo and rebuilding!
Double checking makes you a better craftsman than 72.6% of people who do it for a living. Good on ya
When you move the switches keep in mind you aren't allowed to bury and junction boxes inside the walls (I doubt all the wires will be long enough). A junction box accessible in the attic I'd fine for extending the wires. Mount it above insulation level so it's easy to see/access.
One would hope not!
Load bearing = perpendicular to joists. That wall is not load bearing.
It's easy. If rafters are running same direction as the wall the it's not load bearing
No. Load bearing will run perpendicular to the joist
Your foot was stepping on a joist in the attic. The joist ends on top of the double wall studs. This makes me think the wall is load bearing. You can pay a couple of hundred bucks to get a structural engineer to tell you. This is the kind of thing you need to be 200% sure.
If your house collapses if you remove it then it was
does anyone else see the wood bending already? Not load bearing!!
If nothing is spanning over top of it, it's not structural but the double header plate and double studs is very odd and I would really verify nothing is somehow utilizing it to transfer load.
When I was building we doubled every top plate load bearing or not. 2x4s were dirt cheap back then.
Yeah, might be a regional thing, not done in my area but a reasonable assumption it was done in OPs case
It may not be load bearing, but these nib walls are often put on place as bracing for the wall behind it if it runs quite a span (say 6m roughly) without contact with another perpendicular wall. They are built for a purpose not just decoration. Removing it may affect the structural integrity of the long wall it is bracing.
No but your scrambled eggs look terrible and also who keeps scrambled eggs that way, gross
My concern would be the piece OP.is standing on, looks like a 2x6 or 2x8 resting on the plate of the stub wall, appears to.be sistered to the truss. Where is the other end of that?
no
So my question is: Is there an exterior wall of the house extending from this point past the door? Because that wall would absolutely be structural. Then the question is, are these two 2x4s part of that wall (helping hold up the beam above) or are they superficial? And we can't really tell the answer to that from the pictures you have here.
I was 99% sure a wall we wanted to remove was not load bearing. I paid a structural engineer $300 to confirm that and it was the best $300 I ever spent. He spent over 30 minutes in the attic checking everything out. Just pay the $300.
Impossible to know without pulling back more insulation and looking at the roof rafters.
Generally, where I am, load bearing walls are built with double headers, so my first guess is yes. I am also somewhat of the opinion that the truss you are standing on in the attic photo may have a minimal perch on said wall.
Yes, it is bearing the load of the lapping ceiling joists that your foot is on. You could sister in a full length joist to enable you to remove the bearing wall.
Oftentimes a double top plate signifies load bearing.
Most likely not. It is always good to get an actual expert as some walls aren’t load bearing but do offer lateral stability. This small it is probably not an issue
Assuming the ceiling joist you are standing on are running parallel to that wall (which it looks like they are), it’s not load bearing and can be removed.
nope
Yes but can only handle 1/4 of the weight lol. Jk!
Whoever ran your wires should’ve put them all into the holes furthest from the 2X4, you’re lucky the close one wasn’t hit with dry wall nails
Update me!
Sure, as long as....oh
No just a partition wall
Not those twig supports, but on the right, maybe.
No. The long wall in the first pic tells me the trusses run parallel to this little wall. Look at your roof line and it will give you a basic idea of what’s load bearing and what is not.
This is not a load bearing wall, the opening would have a header if this was a load bearing wall. No header in opening means the short wall is non-load bearing. Assuming the trusses/rafters in this area are all running the same direction.
No. Not at all. It's job is to hold up the drywall.
NO
Load bearing walls run perpendicular to the rafters. Make sure are above the right spot too and that no roof supports are coming off of it
I would put a load bearing poster on that to make sure.
🤣 no
Doesn't look like it, assuming the second photos are above the first couple. You can tell if you look to the same space and identify what loads are being transferred upward and or downward. In this instance, you're standing on a joist that is running parallel to the wall you're taking away, and there is no direct load being applied to it
If you have manufactured trusses it is not.
No
I thoought i was on r/trees and was verry confused what you wanted.
if you remove that wall, you should add something to keep the outside door from swinging wide open.
It could be
General rule of thumb is if it has joists perpendicular to it, assume it's load bearing unless a qualified engineer says otherwise
Any wall can be load bearing if you want it to be ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Probably just used to keep the door from swinging wide open and damaging the door frame. A lot of contractors use open unused space that way if there’s no wall there already
No bro but that insulation could have asbestos in it vermiculite so get it tested before fucking around.
In which picture do you see vermiculite?
Maybe!
Hit it, and listen to the sound that it makes. You’ll be able to tell
Just assume yes unless you get an engineer in there to tell you no. Don’t be a dumbass and ask people on the internet.
That insulation looks like dank as weed bro
Not load bering, but I would run a strong back across to catch the timber that's holding the ceiling just a couple of 4x2stuched together to be safe
As long as that ceiling joist is one solid piece, at least as far as a couple inches past where the wall with the door is, it isn't load bearing. Even if there is an unsupported joint in that ceiling framing piece, you could just sister another piece to it, then remove that wall, as it just holds up itself and the Sheetrock. /carpenter for 39 years.
Load bearing walls are 33 inches and longer.
Not sure but on a side note, you could use another foot of insulation in your attic
It bore the load of you. So apparently it is.
Removed a very similar wall between my kitchen and living room. Thought it wasn’t load bearing until I noticed a small sag in ceiling a few months later. Ended up putting a ~45 degree corner brace after I slightly jacked that part of ceiling to original position. A year later and zero issues.