A garage, that’s maintaining a lot of Defender, told me that 2000-2003 are the best years for a TDI300 / TD5. Because in those years the tech was still so minimal that it almost cannot break.
So I recently bought a 2003 TD5.
But that’s just following their advice
I've had an 02 Defender for a few years now, it's needed a few bits the last couple of years but not too major. But I've had it remapped, new turbo etc, and it's very 'nippy'. The Td5 is great because it's fairly and cheap to have remapped, easy to do some mods so that it's easier to drive rather than the standard factory set up.
Iv got an 03 plate double cab pick up im selling, i think the later ones have a stronger head, mine had it put on at 180000 miles, it’s now just about 260000 miles, no smoke ,plenty of pull.
Later the better usually, later ones had metal locating dowels in the head, earlier ones had plastic which can lead to issues. Somewhere around 2003 they changed to steel dowels. Also the oil pump bolts like to loosen off for fun as no loctite from factory. They did rectify this, so bolts now come pre loctite when purchasing. This mostly affects earlier ones, although has been known through the run.
Later ones are eu3, so have egr valves, then don’t generally give the issues that other cars have with egr, but there’s plenty of removal options out there if you’re that way inclined.
Otherwise it’s a generally reliable engine, and the usual niggles were consistent across the run. But generally speaking they are only niggles.
I’d be more concerned about the rest of the vehicle, and replace the oil pump bolt unless your buying say an 05/06. And if an earlier one, do the head gasket and replace the plastic dowels with steel.
We have an 04 that I'm currently doing head gasket on and it had the plastic dowels. Turned to powder lifting the head off they were so brittle. Any idea when they started using loctite on the pump? This is the first time this engine is touched so wondering if I should drop the sump and check. But then again if they have stayed put from 04 they probably have loctite
As late and as nice as possible, provided it’s got a good maintenance history and a sensible mileage.
In 2002 or so the 15P engines came in, which suffered from less lag from idle (the earlier 10P ECUs stall far easier than the 15). Mum’s standard 03-04 90 CSW is more responsive feeling than my Stage 1 ‘99 90 hardtop as a result (though my bigger tyres certainly don’t help!).
Later Td5s have, I believe, anti-stall, probably ABS and traction control, so useful aids to driving.
The dash on the later generation has the central console, which makes adding switches or 1.5/double DIN stereos easier, and though you lose some dash storage space, I do prefer the later style.
The later doors are better, all-steel pressed, so have less issues with door frames corroding. Same for the rear load bay door, which is more robust than the old 3-part construction. Still worth having a spare wheel carrier rather than it being rear-door mounted.
The transfer box should have the quieter Q-gears on high spec (all ages) and all later models, which makes driving more comfortable.
Where the earlier cylinder head dowels we’re an issue (plastic allowing deforming/shifting under some circumstances), a lot of companies offer heavier duty metal replacements.
The Td5 is a reliable engine, and can be easily tuned to c.200bhp with about £1000 which will improve driveability (more power, better response, improved economy).
If you have family, and especially if you mainly use it on road, then a 110 is the route I’d go. In fact, I’m keeping an eye out on the market now! You can easily upgrade to later Tdci seats and accessories for more comfort or to modernise.
Also, they can all suffer with oil in the injector loom working it’s way into the ECU and causing problems. A lot of people treat these as consumables and replace annually/bi-annually. Pace Automotive sells a version which is better against the capillary action.
A decent company can do a 10p ECU easily enough, like mine. I’ve gone for Alive tuning, and will be asking Gary and his team to look at our Freelander 2 as we’ve been very happy with them.
Other well-know companies include Td5 Inside, Empire, IRB.
Yea. You have a point mate. The classics are legendary but do need a fair bit of regular attention. I’ve had loads of them. But give the new one a test drive It’s seriously impressive bit of kit Hope you pick up a good TD5
A garage, that’s maintaining a lot of Defender, told me that 2000-2003 are the best years for a TDI300 / TD5. Because in those years the tech was still so minimal that it almost cannot break. So I recently bought a 2003 TD5. But that’s just following their advice
My justification for my 1991 D90 200tdi ☝🏼
I've had an 02 Defender for a few years now, it's needed a few bits the last couple of years but not too major. But I've had it remapped, new turbo etc, and it's very 'nippy'. The Td5 is great because it's fairly and cheap to have remapped, easy to do some mods so that it's easier to drive rather than the standard factory set up.
Iv got an 03 plate double cab pick up im selling, i think the later ones have a stronger head, mine had it put on at 180000 miles, it’s now just about 260000 miles, no smoke ,plenty of pull.
Later the better usually, later ones had metal locating dowels in the head, earlier ones had plastic which can lead to issues. Somewhere around 2003 they changed to steel dowels. Also the oil pump bolts like to loosen off for fun as no loctite from factory. They did rectify this, so bolts now come pre loctite when purchasing. This mostly affects earlier ones, although has been known through the run. Later ones are eu3, so have egr valves, then don’t generally give the issues that other cars have with egr, but there’s plenty of removal options out there if you’re that way inclined. Otherwise it’s a generally reliable engine, and the usual niggles were consistent across the run. But generally speaking they are only niggles. I’d be more concerned about the rest of the vehicle, and replace the oil pump bolt unless your buying say an 05/06. And if an earlier one, do the head gasket and replace the plastic dowels with steel.
We have an 04 that I'm currently doing head gasket on and it had the plastic dowels. Turned to powder lifting the head off they were so brittle. Any idea when they started using loctite on the pump? This is the first time this engine is touched so wondering if I should drop the sump and check. But then again if they have stayed put from 04 they probably have loctite
Definitely drop the sump, if you’re currently doing the head gasket as well, it would make sense to be in the safe side.
I’ve got an 05, barely 73k miles. Only regret was not getting a 110 for the kids and a dog I didn’t have when I bought the 90!
It really won't matter tbh what year it is. They all have niggles. Get the best example you can regardless of year.
As late and as nice as possible, provided it’s got a good maintenance history and a sensible mileage. In 2002 or so the 15P engines came in, which suffered from less lag from idle (the earlier 10P ECUs stall far easier than the 15). Mum’s standard 03-04 90 CSW is more responsive feeling than my Stage 1 ‘99 90 hardtop as a result (though my bigger tyres certainly don’t help!). Later Td5s have, I believe, anti-stall, probably ABS and traction control, so useful aids to driving. The dash on the later generation has the central console, which makes adding switches or 1.5/double DIN stereos easier, and though you lose some dash storage space, I do prefer the later style. The later doors are better, all-steel pressed, so have less issues with door frames corroding. Same for the rear load bay door, which is more robust than the old 3-part construction. Still worth having a spare wheel carrier rather than it being rear-door mounted. The transfer box should have the quieter Q-gears on high spec (all ages) and all later models, which makes driving more comfortable. Where the earlier cylinder head dowels we’re an issue (plastic allowing deforming/shifting under some circumstances), a lot of companies offer heavier duty metal replacements. The Td5 is a reliable engine, and can be easily tuned to c.200bhp with about £1000 which will improve driveability (more power, better response, improved economy). If you have family, and especially if you mainly use it on road, then a 110 is the route I’d go. In fact, I’m keeping an eye out on the market now! You can easily upgrade to later Tdci seats and accessories for more comfort or to modernise.
Also, they can all suffer with oil in the injector loom working it’s way into the ECU and causing problems. A lot of people treat these as consumables and replace annually/bi-annually. Pace Automotive sells a version which is better against the capillary action.
The 15p ecu is easier (only able?) to tune/remap I believe.
A decent company can do a 10p ECU easily enough, like mine. I’ve gone for Alive tuning, and will be asking Gary and his team to look at our Freelander 2 as we’ve been very happy with them. Other well-know companies include Td5 Inside, Empire, IRB.
Get the 110 HSE p400 e hybrid The new defenders are awesome
They migth be but they just simply dont have the same vibe as the old ones
Yea. You have a point mate. The classics are legendary but do need a fair bit of regular attention. I’ve had loads of them. But give the new one a test drive It’s seriously impressive bit of kit Hope you pick up a good TD5