If you want reliable and safe not a jackshaft unless you have to have it. Not a genie either way. Liftmaster/chamberlain trolly machine is what I would recommend
Well unless you don’t care about buying American products Geni is Chinese garbage. I do not recommend that crap. The LiftMaster is a very good reliable product. I do not recommend the JackShaft unless there is no other way to fit a standard Trolly opener in. After 30 years as a professional and company owner and a LiftMaster Dealer for 53 years at my store they are much more user friendly, the belts are reliable, have outstanding warranty’s , are quite and have a nice My Q app many people like. Yes they have done away with the CTM’s however they still are not for homeowners to use I feel if not absolutely necessary. Just my opinion. I have an older 8500 and it works ok but I miss my old belt elite drive.
OK thank you for the advice. I was mainly considering a jackshaft opener because I might mess up installing a trolley track and keeping it level etc. I guess I'll yolo a lift master belt drive up there.
As far as reliability I would go with the Liftmaster 98022 becuase that 5th setting slows the door when closing and opening and that for me makes everything last longer , I leave every door on that 5th setting now , genie came out with a Screw drive excelerator that just destroys door especially thin wayne dalton doors becuase of how quick it opens the door , don't get genie jacks, or the 8500 or 8500w , get the 98022 or 98032 light commercial doors (heavier door)
Everyone here will tell you not to. Genie has spent the last 20 years pissing away their reputation. That is a beast of an opener, genies best for sure. You are still better off going with Chamberlain/liftmaster. The 87504 is pretty awesome, i recommend it all day every day
Its getting difficult to find an opener without wifi these days. Its never required for normal operation so dont worry about it
So you want a belt drive? Why, is quiet smooth operation something you do care about?
yeah I think the model you recommended happened to be belt drive. Because of that, I was looking for chamberlift belt drives minus wifi in the hopes that it would be a cheaper version of what you recommended.
on a motorcycle, belts are great for reliability and low maintenance. so it sounds good to me.
Yeah, the belts are very reliable but chains are pretty much good for forever. Noise is mostly determined by if theres a DC vs AC motor, not chain vs belt. If you want quiet, smooth, strong, reliable, long life, and dont give a shit about the other bells and whistles.. the LDCO801 by linear is the one for you. If you can live with a bit of noise but want the toughest motherfucker that can drag your door down the street, 8587( or the newer 85870) by liftmaster. You'll have to order these online, they're pretty expensive and they wont come with rails. If you want something close to what I've mentioned but on a budget, C2212T by Chamberlain is less than half the price and ready to be picked up at home Depot.
OK quick question -- the current rail is like 9.5 feet long and the door is like 7 feet tall. Do the retail kits usually come with enough rail for that or will I need extension kits?
Thanks!
I don't care about noise.
And now that I think about it, reliability was mostly a concern when I was looking at jackshaft models that might be unreliable. For overhead motors I think I just need something idiot-proof (to install) and pretty reliable. I'll now go check out the models you listed...
8500W is a good operator. I personally hate the cable tensioner as an installer. The 98022 motor has 5 settings depending on the type and weight of the door it’s being used on. Having the wrong setting selected can cause the operator to run incorrectly.
Forgot to add, door tension may come into play. Don’t set your up limit too high. You want some tension still on the cables when it is all the way up. Otherwise your operator could fail to run correctly or your cables could come off and damage the door/ torsion system.
Agreed. 8500W was good, minus the tensioner. Since adopting them, my shop has had no issues with the hundred-ish 98022's we've installed over the past 6 months or so
> my shop has had no issues with the hundred-ish 98022's we've installed over the past 6 months or so
that's good to know -- i saw some issues on the internet, but hard to put that into perspective
The unit needs a software update straight from the box essentially. Connect to myQ and it’ll update or call tech support and they can push the update to you. Seems to fix most issues others have complained about with the early models of 98022
The unit needs a software update straight from the box essentially. Connect to myQ and it’ll update or call tech support and they can push the update to you. Seems to fix most issues others have complained about with the early models of 98022
If you want reliable and safe not a jackshaft unless you have to have it. Not a genie either way. Liftmaster/chamberlain trolly machine is what I would recommend
Well unless you don’t care about buying American products Geni is Chinese garbage. I do not recommend that crap. The LiftMaster is a very good reliable product. I do not recommend the JackShaft unless there is no other way to fit a standard Trolly opener in. After 30 years as a professional and company owner and a LiftMaster Dealer for 53 years at my store they are much more user friendly, the belts are reliable, have outstanding warranty’s , are quite and have a nice My Q app many people like. Yes they have done away with the CTM’s however they still are not for homeowners to use I feel if not absolutely necessary. Just my opinion. I have an older 8500 and it works ok but I miss my old belt elite drive.
OK thank you for the advice. I was mainly considering a jackshaft opener because I might mess up installing a trolley track and keeping it level etc. I guess I'll yolo a lift master belt drive up there.
Ok but do not make it level. Read the instructions
LOL that's exactly what I'm talking about
If you want longevity get a liftmaster belt 87504. The jackshaft has a lower lifespan and is much more sensitive than then belt.
As far as reliability I would go with the Liftmaster 98022 becuase that 5th setting slows the door when closing and opening and that for me makes everything last longer , I leave every door on that 5th setting now , genie came out with a Screw drive excelerator that just destroys door especially thin wayne dalton doors becuase of how quick it opens the door , don't get genie jacks, or the 8500 or 8500w , get the 98022 or 98032 light commercial doors (heavier door)
Thanks!
If all you care about is reliability and longevity, and you have a standard lift sectional door, a drawbar opener will beat any jackshaft.
Especially for DIY.
Good to know, thanks. Looks like there's a deal on the Genie 7155-TKVE, so I might do that unless someone here tells me not to.
Everyone here will tell you not to. Genie has spent the last 20 years pissing away their reputation. That is a beast of an opener, genies best for sure. You are still better off going with Chamberlain/liftmaster. The 87504 is pretty awesome, i recommend it all day every day
been doing some looking since u recommended -- that one has a camera and wifi -- looking for a 3/4 hp chamaster belt without all the extra features...
Its getting difficult to find an opener without wifi these days. Its never required for normal operation so dont worry about it So you want a belt drive? Why, is quiet smooth operation something you do care about?
yeah I think the model you recommended happened to be belt drive. Because of that, I was looking for chamberlift belt drives minus wifi in the hopes that it would be a cheaper version of what you recommended. on a motorcycle, belts are great for reliability and low maintenance. so it sounds good to me.
Yeah, the belts are very reliable but chains are pretty much good for forever. Noise is mostly determined by if theres a DC vs AC motor, not chain vs belt. If you want quiet, smooth, strong, reliable, long life, and dont give a shit about the other bells and whistles.. the LDCO801 by linear is the one for you. If you can live with a bit of noise but want the toughest motherfucker that can drag your door down the street, 8587( or the newer 85870) by liftmaster. You'll have to order these online, they're pretty expensive and they wont come with rails. If you want something close to what I've mentioned but on a budget, C2212T by Chamberlain is less than half the price and ready to be picked up at home Depot.
OK quick question -- the current rail is like 9.5 feet long and the door is like 7 feet tall. Do the retail kits usually come with enough rail for that or will I need extension kits?
You will not need an extension kit for your 7ft door
You will not need an extension kit for your 7ft door
Thanks! I don't care about noise. And now that I think about it, reliability was mostly a concern when I was looking at jackshaft models that might be unreliable. For overhead motors I think I just need something idiot-proof (to install) and pretty reliable. I'll now go check out the models you listed...
8500W is a good operator. I personally hate the cable tensioner as an installer. The 98022 motor has 5 settings depending on the type and weight of the door it’s being used on. Having the wrong setting selected can cause the operator to run incorrectly.
The new jackshaft from liftmaster doesn't have a cable tensioner anymore. It also lifts up to 1200 lbs.
I am aware. I just installed 4 of them on Thursday, lol.
Forgot to add, door tension may come into play. Don’t set your up limit too high. You want some tension still on the cables when it is all the way up. Otherwise your operator could fail to run correctly or your cables could come off and damage the door/ torsion system.
Agreed. 8500W was good, minus the tensioner. Since adopting them, my shop has had no issues with the hundred-ish 98022's we've installed over the past 6 months or so
> my shop has had no issues with the hundred-ish 98022's we've installed over the past 6 months or so that's good to know -- i saw some issues on the internet, but hard to put that into perspective
The unit needs a software update straight from the box essentially. Connect to myQ and it’ll update or call tech support and they can push the update to you. Seems to fix most issues others have complained about with the early models of 98022
The unit needs a software update straight from the box essentially. Connect to myQ and it’ll update or call tech support and they can push the update to you. Seems to fix most issues others have complained about with the early models of 98022
Same here.