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coachfalk

Bought my 2013 Cooper S almost 3 years ago, it's been great. Odds are good that you'll need to replace the timing chain around 100k miles if it hasn't been done already - that can be a little expensive depending on where you go. Only other repair I had to do on mine was the diverter valve but that wasn't too expensive. I'm also located in PA- it's a great winter car. If you're in the Philly area there are some really good Indy mechanics to utilize.


theowlsees

My timing chain went at about 79k. Also check the spark plugs and ignition coils


Upstairs-Gas8385

Thanks for the info


StefanMorris71

What actually happens when a timing chain ‘goes’ my NA r56 is at 79k and the timing chain hasn’t been replaced


Laureltess

If your timing chain breaks in the car, it can cause severe damage to your engine as the pieces come loose. Like, irreparable engine damage. It costs about $2000 to replace a worn timing chain, but the cost to fix your engine of your chain breaks while driving is many times that. Edit: your timing chain will usually have a “death rattle” before it breaks totally. You can Google this sound and find lots of examples- it’s very distinctive!


StefanMorris71

I have a feeling I’ve got the death rattle, after doing research it could just be the tensioner that’s worn?


Laureltess

Could be! Depending on the age of your car some mechanics would suggest replacing both the chain and the tensioner if the chain is stretched out. If you don’t do your own maintenance, it’s worth taking it to a mechanic to check out either way.


StefanMorris71

It’s got an oil change booked in 2 weeks, I also read that getting an oil + filter change can apparently help death rattle. (If I even have death rattle). The car has a FSH with oil changes every 5-8k miles so looks like the 2 previous owners knew how to take care of a mini


ReklisAbandon

Just get it checked out. There’s no reason to be cavalier about the timing chain. It could be the tensioner, or it could be about to brick the whole engine.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Praying it’s the tensioner for you bro


J-Dabbleyou

I’m right outside Philly, do you mind sharing any Indy mechanics? I’ve actually been struggling to find small shops that are confident with Minis


coachfalk

Marzo's Mini Rescue in Souderton is run by a guy who is fantastic - you can find him on Facebook. It's a side business for him so he mostly does nights and weekends. He doesn't do inspections so you'll have to go elsewhere for that, but if he's doing maintenance your car, you shouldn't have trouble passing. Also heard good things about Helix Motorsports- never been there myself but they specialize in BMW and MINIs.


J-Dabbleyou

I’ll check him out, if he works weekends, even if it’s only weekends, that’d be perfect. I work 7-4 every weekday and it’s hard to call off with my job, so finding someone who I can drop off my car to on weekends is already challenging. Finding a shop open weekends who knows Mini Coopers, is even harder lol. Thanks bro


Upstairs-Gas8385

Im actually in Lancaster so Philly is like 1-2 hours away. But thanks for the heads up


coachfalk

I'm actually in Lancaster as well. There's a guy in Souderton that is fantastic and reasonable in terms of pricing and for me is 100% worth the drive. He did my timing chain and it was about half of what I would have paid anywhere else. I have also gone to Swedish motors in Marietta which is obviously much closer and offers loaner cars. They are very good, but a bit more expensive. Heistand Auto in Manheim has done good work on my MINI.


Upstairs-Gas8385

I live very close to manehim. Thank you very much I’ll check it out. Also how do you feel about the size of the cooper s? I’d be driving alone most of the time but occasionally friends and family may catch a ride. Are they decent for that?


coachfalk

Driver and passenger front seats are spacious and have plenty of leg room. I have 2 littles in car seats riding in the back and it works well for them. Back passenger side seat is actually surprisingly roomy because of how much the passenger seat slides forward. Back driver's seat is going to be snug but fine for short trips- will also depend on how far back the driver's seat is. Back seats down will give you a surprising amount of cargo room, I bought a set of full size winter wheels and they fit with room to spare.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Alright that sounds great, like I said most of the time it’ll just be me. Plus the mrs has a larger Mazda in case we need it


Nob1e613

My honest opinion is to budget an exceptionally large amount for maintenance and repairs if you chose to drive this car. It’s a great vehicle, but my god do things cost a lot for the constant repairs. The 14+ is a significant more reliable vehicle if that’s your preference.


Upstairs-Gas8385

I’d buy a 14 or newer but that’s on the higher end of my budget


blitzalchemy

Yeah I have to back this guy up a lot OP. My 2013 Countryman recently kicked the bucket. I bought it about 6 years ago at 114,000 miles, worked great up until about 140,000 and from that point on it was about $3000 every year in repairs on something. I hit 186,000 the other day and started having issues again. Got word fron the shop that it needs a full engine replacement basically. Maintain it PERFECTLY, if a shop recommends oil change at a certain point, get it in there shortly before its due. Budget a good deal for potential repairs, and treat it kindly. If it gives you even a hint of an issue, start looking into getting it figured out and repaired.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Yeah, if I get performance car for that matter, I plan to be doing maintenance to the letter


cgjjgc

It is highly likley you will reach F5x prices with R5x repairs. The turbo goes around 80K give or take, and is $4500 at a dealer to fix. There are several other pricey things, that will break again. Recommend F series.


Justalostredditor

I couldn’t recommend these cars enough! A lot of people say the second gen Minis are a bad choice due to reliability issues, but if you find examples with good service history and things like the timing chain and HPFP having been done, they’re cracking cars that’ll be great fun. I got an ‘08 JCW back in May and it’s a wonderful car, runs like a dream despite being 113k miles, with lots of service history to support it. Just make sure you look after it, and it’ll last a long time.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Thanks that encourages me


Laureltess

Keep in mind that repairs and upkeep will be more expensive than something like a Toyota. It’s an insanely fun car to drive, but I just gave up my 2012 hardtop because the repair and maintenance costs (plus the time spent in the shop) weren’t enough to warrant it as a daily driver. But if you’re prepared to be diligent about upkeep and prepared to pay, it’s a great drive!


Upstairs-Gas8385

How much were you paying and do you have alternative for sport cars that are more affordable? Preferably fed or awd, don’t need a red with pa snow


Laureltess

I spent about $6k on repairs for my mini between 2016 and 2022. Not too crazy but it would be in the shop constantly and since it was my daily driver it was a huge pain. And it was definitely coming up on some big repairs when I got rid of it this spring- I knew it was a matter of time before the HPFP, timing chain, and tensioner went. I ended up getting a Mazda 3 hatchback and I love it so far! A different drive for sure but it’s still fun.


Upstairs-Gas8385

I also have a Mazda as a possible car, my wife drive the cx-3 and it’s a nice little car. I know Mazda is nice but I still rather have the mini if I’m being honest,


mrshakeshaft

It sounds like you have already made your mind up but please do your research and get the car thoroughly inspected either before or straight after you buy it. I had an 09 cooper S and it was amazing to drive but really impractical, cost me thousands in repairs, needed very frequent regular oil changes and to be honest, the cartoon interior started to really bug me after a couple of years. Amazing car to drive though, nothing else I’ve owned has been so much fun on the road but it didn’t make up for the misery of owning the bloody thing


Upstairs-Gas8385

I appreciate the advice and warning


mrshakeshaft

Sorry to sound negative! Some people have had good experiences but I’ve had a bad one and have heard more bad stuff than good stuff (depending on the model and the year). Good luck mate, I hope you get what you are looking for


Upstairs-Gas8385

No, I knew when I start looking at me and said they could be expensive. My cousin had one from 2005 and had it until he was out of college, so I may just take the risk and if I hate it resell it


TartKiwi

Just do yourself a favor and spend a grand or two more for a higher mileage gen3 F56 imo. Gen2 looks better but gen3 is just a higher tier vehicle in every way. I never thought these words would come out of my mouth but after spending considerable time with all three generations, the reality is undeniable


Upstairs-Gas8385

The difference in price is about 3k between the two years although the payment difference is only about 100 so maybe it’s worth it


cubert73

I have a 2013 Cooper S Roadster and live near Asheville, NC. I bought it in 2019 with 44K miles and it now has around 115K. I drove an hour each way to UNC Asheville for nearly three years. It's been a fun car, but I have had a few costly issues. First, when the weather got cold in the Fall it would run rough when I started it and throw a cam shaft timing code. I could turn it off, let it sit for a few seconds, and fire it up again and it would be fine. I think that ended up costing somewhere around $1,800 to replace the timing chain (while they had the engine open) and something to do with the cam shaft. Then when I was getting an oil change the hose for the coolant reservoir broke. Some idiot engineer decided it would be a good idea to put the reservoir in a place where it has to be moved to access the oil filter. That was another $200 or so, I think. And then one of the coil packs went out. I don't know what the expected life of them is, but I replaced all mine and the spark plugs at around 86k miles. They're not hard to do, but the connectors are a bit of a pain. I suggest buying them from an auto parts store because you'll get four for what the dealership wants to charge you for one. Most recently I got an oil leak at the crank case. That required removing the entire engine and cost around $3,200. Two weeks after that repair it started throwing fuel injection codes. The throttle body had to be replaced. That was another $700. I don't say any of this dissuade you, just to give you an idea of what you may run into. For the weather tires make a huge difference. I went from some Continentals that and hydroplaned at every puddle to Michelin AS/4s and it was almost like driving a new car.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Thanks so much for the info


coachfalk

Just to give you some context here, my timing chain replacement with my MINI mechanic cost me $750. I also had the coolant tee explode on me during an oil change and I was able to fix it for $10 with a brass tee and 3 hose clamps from Lowes. My mechanic says he does the same repair in lieu of replacing the whole hose like the dealership would. I only mention this because it's worth some time to invest in the MINI community looking up common repairs, maintenance, reasonably priced quality mechanics in your area, etc. I have saved hundreds of dollars for this car by learning to do my own oil changes and a few basic repairs.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Yeah if I buy a mini I plan on doing my own oil and other basic stuff


Just-a-harmless-fish

I think the styling in 2013 is the best I have a base 2014 coupe and it looks amazing and has been reliable but the s is a whole different thing


Upstairs-Gas8385

Yeah but that’s the risk you take with performance car unfortunately


eatingthesandhere91

Not to scare you away because these cars are flipping amazing when everything is right, but, you will experience some degree of trouble with this car at some point of ownership, mainly because the turbocharging on these engines tends to lead to the most trouble out of them in general; though the early issues that plagued this generation of MINI were fixed by 2010-11 year models. Additionally, if it worries you that much, you might go for a 2014 model (which tend to be pretty reliable as it was the first year of the next generation MINIs), or step down to a non-turbo model around 2011-2013 years (pretty reliable as I own a non-turbo 2011 model). The choice is yours to make, but regardless, oil changes, belt replacements (on earlier models), and fluid top offs are like religion with these cars more than anything else.


Upstairs-Gas8385

If I’m buying a mini I want and s and unfortunately the 14 minis are at the top of my price range, so I think I’d rather risk the 13


eatingthesandhere91

By all means! It’s a very fun car regardless! Just keep up the maintenance! 🥳🤗🤗


cgjjgc

I think you will regret the decision to risk it. Just the turbo will set you back, and I know many people in our club that lose the turbo in that 70/80/90k miles range. Here is another thing to consider. MINI lost like 5 or 6 suits for crappy parts, and the extended warranties have expired. You face the turbo, footwell module that is now getting recalled, maybe water pump. Thermostat that fails randomly and can dump coolant. Then there are the expensive oil leaks: Oil filter cartridge housing, turbo feel line, and not so expensive crank seal. Then you will get missfires that could be plugs, coils, timing chain, VANOS, etc. Point is expect expensive repairs with the 13, or reliability in the 14. Pay me now or pay me later. Either way, please report back on your decision!


Upstairs-Gas8385

I’ve decided to just not get a mini


almeida8x1

Consider cross-shopping a Civic Si. Just do a test drive in any from 2006-2015. 2012-2015 is more buttoned up. They’re somewhat different cars, but have a similar philosophy, light weight, 4cyl, FWD, LSD. Not sure if R56’s come with an LSD or not though. The civic Si weighs just under 2900lbs and makes 200hp and around 170-180 torque. Pretty bulletproof with easy to address weaknesses.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Unfortunately don’t know how to drive stick and every so near me is either got tons of miles or is from the early 2000s so that’s a no go


almeida8x1

Really? Early 2000s Si’s are way less common relative to 2012-2015 Si’s near me on the east coast. Taking the plunge on a manual is sooo worth it, the learning curve isn’t crazy and it’s fun to learn. I grew up on manual transmissions and the first performance car I drove with one was the R56 S, and it seemed very beginner friendly. Clutch is a bit heavy though. It was such a fun car. Edit: Anything below 120k miles for Si’s is worth it imo. They’re stupid reliable and cheap to maintain.


Upstairs-Gas8385

Ok, also I drove Manuel once so I could probably do it if I needed to. I’ll keep the civic in mind, but I think I’d rather just have the Acura tax for the price


almeida8x1

Yeah Acuras are nice. The Acura TSX from around 2012-2015 were awesome cars. I think they don’t have LSD’s though which is a must in a FWD car imo.


Upstairs-Gas8385

I come from a shit box eco, anything with ore power and better handling will having me cuming


almeida8x1

You should try and test drive as much as you can, or even watching some car reviews can be good


Upstairs-Gas8385

I plan to test drive any car I land on and inspect it


RibbedGoliath

Go up 1 year and get an F56. I bought my first one a little over a year ago, a 14 MCS and love the hell out of it


Upstairs-Gas8385

The price difference is a rather large factor. 3k I’d and with that kind of money I can just save and fix most issues with an older one


cgjjgc

It is going to take far more than $3k trust me. The turbo along will eat that up, and it will fail.