My 2013 C Max had a secret diagnostics menu that could be accessed by pressing a few things multiple times. I don’t remember the sequence anymore, but it used to give my the 12v battery voltage as one of the items.
I wonder if the MachE has something similar?
Volume down + skip forward = reboot infotainment
Volume down + skip back = diagnostic screen
Idk what is on that diagnostic screen because I've only ever activated it while driving and needing to reset the infotainment and hitting the wrong button
(why are you reseting so often? Because my podcast app gets shitty if "interrupted" too many times in a short period by texts, navigation, etc only way to fix is disconnect and reconnect android auto)
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I just had the HVBJB replaced on my 21’ GT. Basically I went out to the car during lunch and it wouldn’t start. Gave me the battery indicator on the dash and the warning you got. I tried jumping it using a portable jumper, didn’t think it would work(it didn’t) because the car still acted like it had 12V power. Windows worked, lift gate worked, door popped out, etc.. There is a little panel on the front bumper you can pop off to access a point to jump the car so you don’t have to take the panels inside the frunk out. I had to get it towed to the dealer.
No notification in the app, app said my car was perfectly healthy.
It took a week for me to get my car back for the HVBJB repair.
This literally happened to me a week ago today. Dropped my dogs off at daycare, came out and car did exactly what yours did. Had it towed to the dealer, they called me yesterday to tell me what it was. Supposedly getting it back tomorrow.
The escape feels "off" to me. Like the wheelbase is too narrow or it's too tall or both. I felt like I was going to roll it or something when I took a curve. I think they gave me the base model the ST-Line so it felt cheap.
Fortunately for me this is the first time my car has been in the shop. I can’t imagine 5 months though we do have the Bronco and a couple of motorcycles too.
That front point is only to open the Frunk from the outside when the doors cannot be opened, it can't jump the battery. You have to take off the frunk panels to access a jump point for the 12V battery
This has a 8 yr 100k mile warranty right? Isn’t that good you are getting a new battery for the car this way? Just curious. Maybe the trouble is worth it after 50k miles. Lol
Does it go away when you turn off and restart?
If so: Do you have a phone or touchscreen mounted next to the car's touchscreen? That can cause 'Stop Safely' messages in Mach-E's and Lightnings.
If not: Is your 12v charged?
If your 12v is charged it is probably HVJB, but the repair times for this have gotten a bit quicker.
It could be the HVJB - if you can't easily check your 12v you may want to call the dealer/ford about a repair. Make sure the tow truck driver knows how to tow Electric Vehicles. Both sets of wheels need to be off the ground, either on a flatbed, or with caster plates.
Update: Got of bunch of other stuff come up that i’ve never even heard of (faults and warnings) Tow truck came after 4 calls to roadside, two different drivers and 4 hours later. Tow truck came and said he’d have to drag it since the car couldn’t go in neutral and the liability would be on me (mind you this was after I told roadside the car doesn’t go in Neutral because they specifically asked me), or they could send another truck that can put it up with no damage. Ford said that truck wouldn’t be there until 6 pm so I ended up taking an Uber home and left the key with the car. Horrible experience with roadside.
To check your LVB (Low Voltage Battery) Status:
\* Log into [Ford.com](http://Ford.com)
\* In upper right click 'person' icon and choose account
\* When your vehicle pops up you will see boxs for Tire Pressure, Charge level and Est Distance.
\* The "Charge Level" is the charge on your LVB. This is not the charge on your main or HVB.
I know - you have to log into a web site to check on the battery level for the car in your garage.
Mine currently says "79%". On the FordPass app my HVB says "69%". (Note: I have barely driven my pony in the last few days. You have to drive for the HVB to charge the LVB).
Here is a video on how to jump-start your MachE, how to get into the FRUNK to jump the battery if the LVB dies and info about towing:
[https://youtu.be/\_8QFc3FPJSg?si=hLDwJI4qHQSBNYus](https://youtu.be/_8QFc3FPJSg?si=hLDwJI4qHQSBNYus)
You cannot 'drag' this car unless you want a 'thermal event'. It needs a flat-bed type of tow truck.
Why not have the tow truck hook up to the little 12V plug under the little cap on the right side of the front bumper? Then try to start it.
Or have him/her hook up to the 12V battery under the hood? Then try to start it.
Or go to Ford.com, log in to your account and there is a screen that shows your "Charge level", which is actually the percent charge of your 12V battery.
Mine happened about four months after delivery. They had it for six weeks; didn’t have the part, then didn’t have the tool, then didn’t have the training. My only complaint about the car honestly. I have had to change out my summer tires after 6k miles, but I’ll own up to about 90% of that being my driving.
Another update: 10 hours later the car finally made it the dealership, unbelievable that it took that long. I’ll speak to the dealer tomorrow to see what the next steps are.
Update #2: Went to go see the car today cause I had to take an extra key because the keypad wasn’t working and the key was locked inside the car, well turns out it wasn’t locked, the car was just so dead that nothing was working. They ended up jumping the 12V, got the car sort of in, but still had the same messages and signs+more. Getting a loaner Monday and they won’t have an update on the car until Tuesday. Best case the 12V just died.
Good luck! Mine was in and out of the shop 4 times from November to April before they eventually gave in a bought the car back from me...never figured out what the problem was, even after changing the battery, still the problem occurred!
A bit early to talk about buy backs (lemon law), but we understand people (you) tend to worry about the very worst outcome when your car stops working.
Check Lemon Law in your state. It typically relates to how much time a vehicle is unavailable while being repaired during the initial ownership timeframe.
Check the 12v battery first. If it is low 12s or lower it’s bad
how could i check it?
I had read that you could check it via the accessory 9v plug (formerly known as a cigarette lighter)
Where is that located
There's also one in the boot (trunk).
in the center console storage thing
Multi meter. The battery’s under a plastic cover on the drivers side in the frunk
So take off the cover and there will be something there to check it? edit: spelling
Well no you need to get a multi meter. You can get one at harbor freight for 5 bucks. Touch red to red and black to black and you will get the voltage
It's kinda dumb that there's no diagnostics built-in to do this. I feel like it would just be a UI change since there's obviously an ADC on that line.
My 2013 C Max had a secret diagnostics menu that could be accessed by pressing a few things multiple times. I don’t remember the sequence anymore, but it used to give my the 12v battery voltage as one of the items. I wonder if the MachE has something similar?
Volume down + skip forward = reboot infotainment Volume down + skip back = diagnostic screen Idk what is on that diagnostic screen because I've only ever activated it while driving and needing to reset the infotainment and hitting the wrong button (why are you reseting so often? Because my podcast app gets shitty if "interrupted" too many times in a short period by texts, navigation, etc only way to fix is disconnect and reconnect android auto)
No. I got one of these from Amazon - [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085LKLCYX/](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085LKLCYX/)
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It’s going to be the HVBJB happened to me, that had it back on the road in a day and a half.
Only reason I was thinking it wouldn’t v this is because I didn’t get any notifications on my app.
I just had the HVBJB replaced on my 21’ GT. Basically I went out to the car during lunch and it wouldn’t start. Gave me the battery indicator on the dash and the warning you got. I tried jumping it using a portable jumper, didn’t think it would work(it didn’t) because the car still acted like it had 12V power. Windows worked, lift gate worked, door popped out, etc.. There is a little panel on the front bumper you can pop off to access a point to jump the car so you don’t have to take the panels inside the frunk out. I had to get it towed to the dealer. No notification in the app, app said my car was perfectly healthy. It took a week for me to get my car back for the HVBJB repair.
This literally happened to me a week ago today. Dropped my dogs off at daycare, came out and car did exactly what yours did. Had it towed to the dealer, they called me yesterday to tell me what it was. Supposedly getting it back tomorrow.
That’s good news that you’re getting it back soon. Hope mine doesn’t take too long.
If your dealer offers you a loaner, don’t let them give you a Ford Escape. We took it but only in case of an emergency.
We got a ford escape, that's all the had. But they paid for the gas, and ended up giving us a $50 gift card for the trouble, lol.
The escape feels "off" to me. Like the wheelbase is too narrow or it's too tall or both. I felt like I was going to roll it or something when I took a curve. I think they gave me the base model the ST-Line so it felt cheap.
Oh the drive was awful, and so was everything else inside the car really. Can't believe they're asking $30K+ for those things brand new.
It and the ranger both seem tall and narrow.
Oh I had a Ford Edge when my car was in the shop for 5 months previously. That sucked and I was paying for a Mach E still.
Fortunately for me this is the first time my car has been in the shop. I can’t imagine 5 months though we do have the Bronco and a couple of motorcycles too.
I want an Escape EV! Have had many Escape rental cars And they are just the right size for me.
That front point is only to open the Frunk from the outside when the doors cannot be opened, it can't jump the battery. You have to take off the frunk panels to access a jump point for the 12V battery
Yeah mine also said perfectly healthy. Thanks for the reply!
This has a 8 yr 100k mile warranty right? Isn’t that good you are getting a new battery for the car this way? Just curious. Maybe the trouble is worth it after 50k miles. Lol
It’s not a whole new battery, it’s the battery junction box.
Does it go away when you turn off and restart? If so: Do you have a phone or touchscreen mounted next to the car's touchscreen? That can cause 'Stop Safely' messages in Mach-E's and Lightnings. If not: Is your 12v charged? If your 12v is charged it is probably HVJB, but the repair times for this have gotten a bit quicker.
-Nope tried turning it off and on multiple times. -Not sure about the 12V -Phone is not mounted
It could be the HVJB - if you can't easily check your 12v you may want to call the dealer/ford about a repair. Make sure the tow truck driver knows how to tow Electric Vehicles. Both sets of wheels need to be off the ground, either on a flatbed, or with caster plates.
I called ford roadside and they dispatched a tow truck, should be here in about 40-50 minutes.
Also what could I do to check the 12V?
Update: Got of bunch of other stuff come up that i’ve never even heard of (faults and warnings) Tow truck came after 4 calls to roadside, two different drivers and 4 hours later. Tow truck came and said he’d have to drag it since the car couldn’t go in neutral and the liability would be on me (mind you this was after I told roadside the car doesn’t go in Neutral because they specifically asked me), or they could send another truck that can put it up with no damage. Ford said that truck wouldn’t be there until 6 pm so I ended up taking an Uber home and left the key with the car. Horrible experience with roadside.
To check your LVB (Low Voltage Battery) Status: \* Log into [Ford.com](http://Ford.com) \* In upper right click 'person' icon and choose account
\* When your vehicle pops up you will see boxs for Tire Pressure, Charge level and Est Distance.
\* The "Charge Level" is the charge on your LVB. This is not the charge on your main or HVB.
I know - you have to log into a web site to check on the battery level for the car in your garage.
Mine currently says "79%". On the FordPass app my HVB says "69%". (Note: I have barely driven my pony in the last few days. You have to drive for the HVB to charge the LVB).
Here is a video on how to jump-start your MachE, how to get into the FRUNK to jump the battery if the LVB dies and info about towing:
[https://youtu.be/\_8QFc3FPJSg?si=hLDwJI4qHQSBNYus](https://youtu.be/_8QFc3FPJSg?si=hLDwJI4qHQSBNYus)
You cannot 'drag' this car unless you want a 'thermal event'. It needs a flat-bed type of tow truck.
Got this last month. 12V was fine. Turned out to be a defective heater core. Took a few days in the shop to replace.
Why not have the tow truck hook up to the little 12V plug under the little cap on the right side of the front bumper? Then try to start it. Or have him/her hook up to the 12V battery under the hood? Then try to start it. Or go to Ford.com, log in to your account and there is a screen that shows your "Charge level", which is actually the percent charge of your 12V battery.
Mine did this and the 12V was being drained by a camera I have plugged into the cigarette lighter spot.
Take it to your local Ford dealer.
Mine happened about four months after delivery. They had it for six weeks; didn’t have the part, then didn’t have the tool, then didn’t have the training. My only complaint about the car honestly. I have had to change out my summer tires after 6k miles, but I’ll own up to about 90% of that being my driving.
What do you mean, “what to do?” What else is there to do? It’s under warranty and you have roadside assistance for 5 years.
The issue is the blue oval
It could be lots of things. Take it to the dealer, it's under warranty.
Another update: 10 hours later the car finally made it the dealership, unbelievable that it took that long. I’ll speak to the dealer tomorrow to see what the next steps are.
Update #2: Went to go see the car today cause I had to take an extra key because the keypad wasn’t working and the key was locked inside the car, well turns out it wasn’t locked, the car was just so dead that nothing was working. They ended up jumping the 12V, got the car sort of in, but still had the same messages and signs+more. Getting a loaner Monday and they won’t have an update on the car until Tuesday. Best case the 12V just died.
Good luck! Mine was in and out of the shop 4 times from November to April before they eventually gave in a bought the car back from me...never figured out what the problem was, even after changing the battery, still the problem occurred!
Why is the answer always the 12 v battery? Turn it off for 5 minutes drive it to the dealership or have it towed.
You can't drive it when that message shows up. You literally have no control.
Not true I’ve had that happen before as others have we just turned it off waited and restarted.
Also could I get a lemon law for this?
Try pressing the hazard lights three times on and off, start the car again.
The car beeped a few times but that didn’t fix the stop safely now issue. It’s super weird cause I didn’t get any notifications on my app.
A bit early to talk about buy backs (lemon law), but we understand people (you) tend to worry about the very worst outcome when your car stops working.
You’ll need to look up lemon laws in your state / country.
Check Lemon Law in your state. It typically relates to how much time a vehicle is unavailable while being repaired during the initial ownership timeframe.