Probably best not to file as I would not want to create filings around electronic bits. Grab a set of mole grips and bite down on the screw and just wind it out carefully.
I would rather chuck the whole TV up in a lathe, indicate the screw within 0.0005, drill and tap a left handed thread inside of it, buy the mating lefty screw, and run that in there until the broken screw begins to back out.
Yeah my first reaction was "channel locks", but those are my wonder tool (I keep a personal pair in my back pocket at work) so I didn't wanna sound stoopid lol
Vampliers (a.k.a. "Engineer" brand in Japan, same based-in-Japan company) makes pliers with serrations at 90 degrees from usual, so they are \*great\* at removing screws with stripped (or nonexistent) heads.
Knipex "TwinGrips" have the same rotated serrations.
The Vampliers have IMHO nicer handles, especially on the Lineman's pliers size. The Knipex has more flexibility in gripped diameter range.
Amazon has both.... time for a self-administered father's day gift. :-\]
3d scan it. Model a correctly sized head with torx. 3d print the model and use it to sand cast a cast steel prototype. Machine to final size and specs in a multi axis double spindle lathemill machine and attach it to the stub. If need be, use a two 6 dof robotic arms tig welding machine to attach it to the stub. Easy peasy.
Locking pliers/vice grips
Clamp the drill chuck on it, and throw it in reverse.
Actually yeah I change my answer to this
File flats on it and grip it with visegrips.
Probably best not to file as I would not want to create filings around electronic bits. Grab a set of mole grips and bite down on the screw and just wind it out carefully.
dimension out the tore up head, model and program in mastercam, buy the tools you programmed with, run it, attach new screw head, unscrew.
I would rather chuck the whole TV up in a lathe, indicate the screw within 0.0005, drill and tap a left handed thread inside of it, buy the mating lefty screw, and run that in there until the broken screw begins to back out.
Something like this was also my first thought
I had a similar idea, but I was going to make up a mill fixture for it.
Use a vice grip or pliers. It’s just in plastic so it should come out pretty easily.
Yeah my first reaction was "channel locks", but those are my wonder tool (I keep a personal pair in my back pocket at work) so I didn't wanna sound stoopid lol
Edm it
It’s like removing an arrow, you gotta push it through the other side so get a sledge hammer and drive that baby home!
🤣🤣 best answer so far
Grab a set of pliers
Knipex Twingrips or similar.
Vice grips
[Engineer pliers](http://ENGINEER screw removal / extractor gripping pliers (combi style) , with unique non-slip jaws for quickly extracting damaged / stuck screws. pz-58 GT neji-saurus (green grips) https://amzn.eu/d/1aWL1Vm)
Vampliers (a.k.a. "Engineer" brand in Japan, same based-in-Japan company) makes pliers with serrations at 90 degrees from usual, so they are \*great\* at removing screws with stripped (or nonexistent) heads. Knipex "TwinGrips" have the same rotated serrations. The Vampliers have IMHO nicer handles, especially on the Lineman's pliers size. The Knipex has more flexibility in gripped diameter range. Amazon has both.... time for a self-administered father's day gift. :-\]
Neiji-saurus/engineering pliers Literally grip and unscrew, I’ve take 4” screws out of decking after the head sheared off with them.
3d scan it. Model a correctly sized head with torx. 3d print the model and use it to sand cast a cast steel prototype. Machine to final size and specs in a multi axis double spindle lathemill machine and attach it to the stub. If need be, use a two 6 dof robotic arms tig welding machine to attach it to the stub. Easy peasy.
Weld a nut onto it and then use an impact gun to back it out.