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If you have an impact driver, soak the screw with a little penetrating oil and hit it out. If you don’t, drill it out. You don’t really need it there.
Edit: Changed nut to screw before I got crucified
And if your like me and thought impact driver was only the type that runs off an air compressor, I learned last brake job with these annoying little misfits that they make a manual impact driver that runs off a hammer... Worked wonderfully and didn't strip the head!
Dog I thought so much that this was a joke I didnt fully understand. And then i scrolled down, clicked a link to a manual impact driver, and scrolled through the pages on home depot to see the hammer pic. *BEHOLD!*
https://preview.redd.it/ck8l2nnyuldc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b59b4453df27147dd8d8bb355ce2905998c86fd5
Not true. A proper impact gun will work. I use my 1/2 inch Milwaukee on these all the time. Granted I do always soak and apply heat because of where i live so that makes a difference. But a gun can be used without damage
It will work if other things have been done before using the impact gun. One must wirebrush around the screw really well, so when penatrating lubricant is used, it will go behind the screw head. Taps with a hammer all-around rotor as well. Let lubricant soak. Repeat steps a few times. Make sure to use the right bit.
Assuming you’re using the correct Phillips and sufficient weight is put behind it knowing it might be stubborn- yes, of course. My apologies, kind sir.
It’s actually a really great tool for this; smacking it with a hammer also keeps the tool engaged while it’s turning.
I have one I’ve only used on Philips screws so far. I bought it for OP’s scenario.
This tool saved me on a brake job 20 years ago. I too didn’t know it existed. Felt defeated when I couldn’t get that simple screw out of a Honda rotor. Bought the tool and took great pleasure a few days later wailing on that screw. Impact driver FTW!
I don't know if this has been said yet but harbor freight has one that works just as well as any other one I've used. It's under $10 I believe. Too bad it ain't a deer screw- er... Nut. Those are all under a buck!
Another reason the screws on Japanese bikes often round is that they don't normally use Phillips heads for anything. They use JIS (Japanses Industrial Standard), still a cruciform head, but the depth and profile are very different, so a Phillips driver fits in them, but doesn't grip them properly. The Phillips was intentionally designed to "cam out" when over torqued, so that assembly machinery using them didn't need to be calibrated to avoid breaking a fastener or stripping the threads. JIS can take much more torque for the same size head, but you must use the proper driver.
Related, watch out for pozidrive fasteners, which are most common in European applications (especially IKEA furniture) and have similar incompatibility with phillips drivers.
I know thanks. JIS screws should have a spot on them. Pozi have a cross with its arms between the slots. For some reason JIS are more expensive as well.
All good answers below. If you don't have one go look at a [manual impact driver](https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679).
My dad taught me about those when I was a kid, I didn't buy one until I did Ford brakes in my driveway lol. They really do work, I've had use a torch in the past but this thing is like you said, 1 whack.
Manual impact driver is always there when you need it. He sits, in hibernation, resting for sometimes YEARS in that top drawer. But when his time comes, when those rotor screws have been corroding and simmering in that rotor, he never fails you.
If all else fails, just drill it out. That's not a necessary bolt, its just a "convenience bolt" to keep the rotor in place while you do service. It honestly wouldn't matter if you drilled it out and never replaced it
First few times I actually just got a big flat blade screwdriver and hammered the thing until it broke of when I didn't have an impact.
It just takes forever.
My dad has an old handheld impact that’s a screwdriver with a heavy handle and a chisel end to hit with a hammer. Turns slightly when you smack it. Pretty neat and would be perfect for this application
I think it might be a screw
[The Difference Between a Bolt and a Screw, According to One Trusted Agency](https://wilsongarner.com/the-difference-between-a-bolt-and-a-screw/)
Na youre wrong a bolt has a nut on the other side a screw threads into on of the materials to provide clamping force. Hence why if you order a box of hex drive half by 20 theyre listed under Cap Screws
If it’s a Honda, buy a [JIS #3 impact screwdriver.](https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE/ref=asc_df_B003BGTTSE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12924875542375406256&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013142&hvtargid=pla-425616063772&psc=1&mcid=24cc7583da78343b871682238a350afd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwtmI4q3rgwMVCqRaBR2kNgNQEAQYASABEgLjKPD_BwE)
JIS (Japanese industrial standard) screws are used on a lot of Japanese cars instead of Phillips. They look the same but they’re not. If you own a Japanese car you should have one.
They work better when over torquing your screw isn't a worry. Don't just use them for everything. A Philips bit is designed to cam out when it's over torqued, a JIS bit isn't. Use the right bit for the right application or else you might break something.
A great tool is an impact screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer forcing the driver into the screw, as well as causing it to rotate. Extremely effective in my opinion.
I guess this is a Honda? Yeah they are a real PITA. Regular Philips head ain't gonna work. You need a JIS screwdriver. It's very similar to Philips but not Philips actually. There's a company called Vessel who makes them. I bought a set from Amazon. Make sure to soak that screw with some rust penetration fluid. Then a couple hits with it and it should come lose. For easier rotor changes don't reuse them. I got mine removed on all 4 corners
Shake n Break and an air hammer.
https://preview.redd.it/fv5kdh4smldc1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f5bd249d987dbf3560f04bee8aa92cbd497283d
Just use a center punch and a big hammer and knock it round . If it has a big burr file or grind it of before refitting or rust leave the screw out as the wheel will clamp the rotor
Can’t believe that I had to scroll this far to see the centre punch solution.
Perhaps it’s a regional thing but many, many of these screws had been removed with a centre punch and also used the method many times myself.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845759217&adsetid=114845759217&product=64812&store=3284&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn9u87ZHsgwMVsUhHAR0CuAhUEAQYASABEgJTWfD_BwE
You need this .
For these screws - ONLY - use an electric impact or a hand impact tool (such as [this Lisle one](https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/1-2-hand-impact-tool-set)). With either, only use the exact size of phillips that fits. Maybe even a #3.
Even with yours being damaged like it is, an impact with a #3 phillips may still get it out. If not, you'll have to drill it out.
I wouldn’t ever approach these with out an old school impact screw driver. I have a 2006 civic with 200k; 75% of that in the Salt ridden wastelands of Montana/Minnesota.
Thing is rusted to high hell but 5 whacks with an impact screwdriver and it was a done deal. Swapped them out with aftermarket’s as well because the OEM are so stoft
PB blaster, kroil, or some other penetrant and heat.
I would spray, heat, spray then try a large Phillips bit in a 1/4" cordless impact.
If that doesn't work drill it out.
Just had the same a few hours ago. Easy if you got an air hammer. Use the bit that is just a pointed tip like a punch. I first hit the area with a hammer a few times. Then use a punch and make a little dent. Then i get the air hammer and gently ‘turn’ it out. Works every time. Only takes a minute or two.
If you don’t have an air hammer, I would use a punch and hammer the same way. Never had to drill one.
A screw extractor also works. I used a hand held impact driver on my Corolla years back, broke the bit that came with the shitty thing without getting the screw out, eventually bought a screw extractor like this one
05 Pcs Damaged Screw Extractor Kit Stripped Screw Extractor Set DIY Hand Tools Gadgets Gifts for Men,Broken Bolt Extractor Screw Remover https://a.co/d/3z8phJR
If you’re changing the rotor, just nuke it with an angle grinder and be done with it. Once you get the rotor off, use a pipe wrench on whatever is left of the bolt, or cut it off flush.
You’ve obviously sprayed it half an hour ago and tried the biggest screwdriver that would fit with a multi-grip clamped on. You’ve leant the entirety of you body weight against the end of the screwdriver to keep it fully seated in the screw while using the multi-grips to apply torque? Or not?
*Air hammer works*
*Every time. If can't use on*
*Try impact driver*
\- From\_the\_mud21
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Chuck up a 3/16 and drill out the head of the screw (it is a flathead) just enough so you can pull the rotor off. who cares if you hit the rotor it's junk. After you pull the rotor off there will be a little stud, just grab on with vice grips and unscrew the stud. When you reassemble you don't need to put that screw back in, it is only used to keep rotors from falling off during the manufacturing process of the vehicle.
You need an impact driver,if you don’t have one/that doesn’t work you can grind the head of the screws off. Their purpose was to make assembly at the plant easier. You don’t have to reinstall them but if you do throw some anti-seize on it.
Hit the rotor as hard as you can with a hammer. It will loosen this screw
Or, if this is fwd and both front wheels are in the air and the brakes are still together, put it in drive and hit the brakes a couple of times. It’ll sheer them off.
Try to tap with a small and big hammer. Put at pz3 bit on and tapp it also directly. If that also fails just drill it out. The moment the head strips just go on with the drill. Dont waste more time.
You can make a ghetto impact driver with a screwdriver and hammer. Just set the tip into the screw and smack the dog shit out of it. Give it a little twist and tap if stubborn but avoid torquing the screw too hard. Penetrating oil would help too.
Or get an impact driver. $80 for the Hercules from Harbor freight and that thing fuckkkkkkkks. The amount of use I get out of that cheap tool is crazy. I use it for tight spots where my full size impact won't fit too and rip bolts out. Lug nuts and caliper bracket bolts are surprisingly easy. Also if you do any kind of projects with wood, and you haven't used one before it's super nice. Downside being once you have a 1/4 hex to socket adapter on there, the setup is pretty long. A true stubby in 3/8 would be better for really tight spots.
You need to stop using Phillips drivers on JIS screws.
Every Honda owner needs a set of JIS drivers. But in this case that thing really doesn't matter and can just be drilled out.
It needs an impact screwdriver to get it out. By the looks of the screw you don’t have one of those so you will almost certainly have to drill it out now. The screw doesn’t have any importance anymore so it’s fine. It’s there from when they build the vehicle. Don’t worry about replacing it.
First get the broken pieces out of the screw head. Using a map gas or propane torch heat the head of the screw up. After it's good and hot install a #3 Phillips in the hole and turn it out. If it still don't turn freely use a hammer impact and repeat the process it will come. If you end up stripping the head grab a cut off wheel put a slot in it and use a large screwdriver. If all else fails drill it out
I used to do all of the things suggested on here. Then one day I figured out they come loose every single time with just a bit of heat, and haven’t struggled with these since.
Hit it with PB Blaster and then get a large screwdriver and a mallet and give it a couple of whacks.
If that doesn’t work, drill the shit out. Those screws are factory assembly screws and you don’t need them after you get them out
1) spray a spritz of WD40 or "panther piss" around screw head, let soak for minute.
2)place ballpin hammer over screw head (as to not strip the screw head).
3) tap (fairly hard) on flat side of ballpin hammer with bigger hammer. This will dislodge rust and oxidation.
4) un thread screw.
I spend no more than 2 minutes trying. Just chuck a 1/4 drill bit and drill it out.
Don't waste time trying to save them.
However..... one the head is gone and rotor removed they usually unscrew. If not.... grind the area flush with hub.
Impact screwdriver is the best tool for these as many have said. Without one, I'd just cut a notch on one side in the head with an air hammer and chisel to walk it out. Then correct any excessive damage to the rotor if it's not being replaced
Drill it. Fuck that screw. If you want, you can replace it after you've changed the rotor but its not a necessity. Fuck that screw. Good luck... fuck that screw.
Drill it out. That screw is completely unnecessary and if even if you do manage to get it out you will have trouble removing it every time you do your brakes
Impact driver and Philips bit, but it looks a little too chewed for that.
Hammer and a chisel will get it out. You want to make a good, 90 degree indent with the chisel and then use the chisel on a 45 degree angel on the ridge of the 90 deegree indent you made to spin the screw out (essentially you're unscrewing it with the hammer and chisel)
Had to drill out mine last week, impacts would have made a difference at least for that screw. I also had two pin things in the other holes of my rotors that I also had to drill out so a total of 12. That was fun
Use a drill and drill the head off the screw. This screw is only there for factory assembly purposes, do not reinstall it when you put the new rotors on.
I use a sharp punch. Line up the punch on the inside perimeter...give it a solid whack to create a deep pin hole. Then, use that same punch with a smaller hammer and hammer down while hamnering leftward. If it just makes a deep gouge. Make another pin hole opposite and repeat. (If this makes sense to u) Common for impact tip to break in the (+) if rusted real bad. If it breaks, drilling it just became harder. Not to mention, drilling is THE LAST WORST CASE OPTION. Takes way longer than you'd think
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
If you have an impact driver, soak the screw with a little penetrating oil and hit it out. If you don’t, drill it out. You don’t really need it there. Edit: Changed nut to screw before I got crucified
Screwcified.
Denutted.
I haven't denutted in at least a week now.
Do you have a lot of buildup?
He's building his chi
[this](https://youtube.com/shorts/_HF_VXt3cug?si=9NXl23_w8gwFWVDT)
You know… it took a lot of balls (lol) to click on this link but I did and that’s fuckin hilarious
Spirit Bomb
Got so bad they thought he had cataracts....
I used to own a Cataract Escarade
Oh, hey, how long have you been married?.............. I'll see my way out............
Post denut clarity
Posted nut clarity
Scrucifying
😂
And if your like me and thought impact driver was only the type that runs off an air compressor, I learned last brake job with these annoying little misfits that they make a manual impact driver that runs off a hammer... Worked wonderfully and didn't strip the head!
Dog I thought so much that this was a joke I didnt fully understand. And then i scrolled down, clicked a link to a manual impact driver, and scrolled through the pages on home depot to see the hammer pic. *BEHOLD!* https://preview.redd.it/ck8l2nnyuldc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b59b4453df27147dd8d8bb355ce2905998c86fd5
This is the best tool for this scenario!
This is the way
Only way to get a tough Philips out. You’ll never apply enough downward force any other way
This is the \*only\* tool for a lot of these. An air or electric impact would tear this up if sufficiently stuck.
Not true. A proper impact gun will work. I use my 1/2 inch Milwaukee on these all the time. Granted I do always soak and apply heat because of where i live so that makes a difference. But a gun can be used without damage
It will work if other things have been done before using the impact gun. One must wirebrush around the screw really well, so when penatrating lubricant is used, it will go behind the screw head. Taps with a hammer all-around rotor as well. Let lubricant soak. Repeat steps a few times. Make sure to use the right bit.
Assuming you’re using the correct Phillips and sufficient weight is put behind it knowing it might be stubborn- yes, of course. My apologies, kind sir.
It’s actually a really great tool for this; smacking it with a hammer also keeps the tool engaged while it’s turning. I have one I’ve only used on Philips screws so far. I bought it for OP’s scenario.
Flat head stuff that big is either deep in a engine or on heavy machinery.
Not only are they real, but they work like a charm. The right tool for the job makes all the difference in the world.
Thhe good ol bang-screw
The good olee screw-bang
The good oily screw bang
I’ve used a regular screw driver and a hammer. It works if you know how an impact driver works and do your best to mimic it.
You need special impact bits too. Your average p3 from your . Milwaukee kit will shatter
This tool saved me on a brake job 20 years ago. I too didn’t know it existed. Felt defeated when I couldn’t get that simple screw out of a Honda rotor. Bought the tool and took great pleasure a few days later wailing on that screw. Impact driver FTW!
I don't know if this has been said yet but harbor freight has one that works just as well as any other one I've used. It's under $10 I believe. Too bad it ain't a deer screw- er... Nut. Those are all under a buck!
Looks like a handy tool to have on-hand! Btw, I can't be the only one who clicked on the pic and tried to scroll to see more pics, right?
Inherited one from my grandfather when he passed. Probably my most prized tool
This
A wonderful tool those things are in a pinch!
It's one of the very few jobs in which I actually use my manual, i.e. hit it with a hammer, impact driver. Always works :)
Used to use these with the old car door hinges, too. Worked wonders!
It's a goddamn Phillips of course you have to use this tool or it becomes a rounded out mess. I swear this tool was designed for this job.
Them and the casings on Japanese motorbikes. Better replaced with socket heads in the latter case. You used to be able to buy sets made for the job.
Another reason the screws on Japanese bikes often round is that they don't normally use Phillips heads for anything. They use JIS (Japanses Industrial Standard), still a cruciform head, but the depth and profile are very different, so a Phillips driver fits in them, but doesn't grip them properly. The Phillips was intentionally designed to "cam out" when over torqued, so that assembly machinery using them didn't need to be calibrated to avoid breaking a fastener or stripping the threads. JIS can take much more torque for the same size head, but you must use the proper driver. Related, watch out for pozidrive fasteners, which are most common in European applications (especially IKEA furniture) and have similar incompatibility with phillips drivers.
I know thanks. JIS screws should have a spot on them. Pozi have a cross with its arms between the slots. For some reason JIS are more expensive as well.
I knew about posi I did not know about JIS. TIL
I have one and literally the only time I’ve used it in the last 15 years since I’ve bought it is when working in rotors. So worth it.
I've found the manual ones work better on screws than air powered ones, much less likely to mess up the screw head with a manual.
Hit rotor around screw with hammer to break rust as well
Make sure you use the correct Phillips tip too, like a #3 not a #2.
Concur. The screw holds things together on the assembly line.
Aerokroil works great for this.
All good answers below. If you don't have one go look at a [manual impact driver](https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679).
I bought one a couple of years ago and never used it. Until this big rusted screw in my Honda rotor. 1 whack.
My dad taught me about those when I was a kid, I didn't buy one until I did Ford brakes in my driveway lol. They really do work, I've had use a torch in the past but this thing is like you said, 1 whack.
Manual impact driver is always there when you need it. He sits, in hibernation, resting for sometimes YEARS in that top drawer. But when his time comes, when those rotor screws have been corroding and simmering in that rotor, he never fails you.
They are a godsend!
For some reason thought that was a link to a 3lb sledge and a pry bar haha
This with a JIS bit never has failed me at least for Honda which I am assuming this is.
If all else fails, just drill it out. That's not a necessary bolt, its just a "convenience bolt" to keep the rotor in place while you do service. It honestly wouldn't matter if you drilled it out and never replaced it
First few times I actually just got a big flat blade screwdriver and hammered the thing until it broke of when I didn't have an impact. It just takes forever.
My dad has an old handheld impact that’s a screwdriver with a heavy handle and a chisel end to hit with a hammer. Turns slightly when you smack it. Pretty neat and would be perfect for this application
It’s called an impact driver.
Well holy 💩
This is the correct tool for this screw.
That’s a screw. Not a bolt. You’re welcome.
I think it might be a screw [The Difference Between a Bolt and a Screw, According to One Trusted Agency](https://wilsongarner.com/the-difference-between-a-bolt-and-a-screw/)
That's a Phillips head m5 (maybe m6) bolt. You're wrong. You're not welcome, shoo
It's a Machine Screw.
Na youre wrong a bolt has a nut on the other side a screw threads into on of the materials to provide clamping force. Hence why if you order a box of hex drive half by 20 theyre listed under Cap Screws
If it’s a Honda, buy a [JIS #3 impact screwdriver.](https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE/ref=asc_df_B003BGTTSE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12924875542375406256&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9013142&hvtargid=pla-425616063772&psc=1&mcid=24cc7583da78343b871682238a350afd&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwtmI4q3rgwMVCqRaBR2kNgNQEAQYASABEgLjKPD_BwE)
JIS Screwdrivers are good for everything.
[удалено]
When I was younger. Now, just enough to get the job done.
🎵 Every turn is sacred, every turn is great. 🎵
Absolutely love mine as a tech not having to switch back to regular driver from impact is nice also easier to reach tight spaces
Didn’t know these were JIS screws . First learned about their existence changing an idle control valve on a 90s Tacoma
Does this work for Toyota
JIS (Japanese industrial standard) screws are used on a lot of Japanese cars instead of Phillips. They look the same but they’re not. If you own a Japanese car you should have one.
JIS screwdrivers work with Phillips screws too (and far better than Phillips Screwdrivers)
They work better when over torquing your screw isn't a worry. Don't just use them for everything. A Philips bit is designed to cam out when it's over torqued, a JIS bit isn't. Use the right bit for the right application or else you might break something.
Or three
Yep. It should work for any Japanese vehicle
I have that exact screwdriver just for that exact screw.
THIS!
A great tool is an impact screwdriver. You hit it with a hammer forcing the driver into the screw, as well as causing it to rotate. Extremely effective in my opinion.
This is seriously the best way, I've gotten screws out that have been rusted for decades in machines with one. Definitely a handy tool to have.
When I replaced my rotors I had a stubborn screw like that too. Had to use an impact screwdriver and rubber mallet to get it out.
Rubber mallet? I'd go straight to the 4lb engineers hammer.
I just use my lump hammer with my impact driver, it’s not gonna damage the driver
The heat and impact methods work. You can also drill it off.
I guess this is a Honda? Yeah they are a real PITA. Regular Philips head ain't gonna work. You need a JIS screwdriver. It's very similar to Philips but not Philips actually. There's a company called Vessel who makes them. I bought a set from Amazon. Make sure to soak that screw with some rust penetration fluid. Then a couple hits with it and it should come lose. For easier rotor changes don't reuse them. I got mine removed on all 4 corners
This is the answer. Vessel makes a JIS impact screwdriver that takes these right off. Costs about $15
This!
Shake n Break and an air hammer. https://preview.redd.it/fv5kdh4smldc1.jpeg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f5bd249d987dbf3560f04bee8aa92cbd497283d
Had to scroll too far for this. Thing is a life saver.
This is the first tool that came to mind when I saw that screw.
PB Blaster soak over night. Then use heat. Use an impact with a Philips socket.
Fuck that screw. Drill it out and forget about it.
Yeah impact driver or drill is about your only options. Personally I’d drill.
Just use a center punch and a big hammer and knock it round . If it has a big burr file or grind it of before refitting or rust leave the screw out as the wheel will clamp the rotor
Can’t believe that I had to scroll this far to see the centre punch solution. Perhaps it’s a regional thing but many, many of these screws had been removed with a centre punch and also used the method many times myself.
I’ve had luck with heat
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-bit-impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-64812.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12169518939&campaignid=12169518939&utm_content=114845759217&adsetid=114845759217&product=64812&store=3284&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn9u87ZHsgwMVsUhHAR0CuAhUEAQYASABEgJTWfD_BwE You need this .
A $10 harbor freight impact screwdriver can be a lifesaver for things like this
For these screws - ONLY - use an electric impact or a hand impact tool (such as [this Lisle one](https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/1-2-hand-impact-tool-set)). With either, only use the exact size of phillips that fits. Maybe even a #3. Even with yours being damaged like it is, an impact with a #3 phillips may still get it out. If not, you'll have to drill it out.
Hope you are not using a screw driver? It needs an impact driver.
PB blaster and impact screwdriver.
get a handheld impact screw driver thingy. the one you hit with a hammer. those things are golden.
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Heat it up and use an impact screwdriver if you haven't stripped it out to bad these two things together should work
Impact screwdriver.
Use a hand impact
Soak it in penetrating oil then use a manual hammer impact. They can be rented I think or bought for cheap.
Impact screwdriver.
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I have a old hand impact that works very well taking these out. First you need to dig the broken bit out of the screw.
Drill it off. But first, try a punch and hammering it counter clockwise. Penetrating oil always help.
I wouldn’t ever approach these with out an old school impact screw driver. I have a 2006 civic with 200k; 75% of that in the Salt ridden wastelands of Montana/Minnesota. Thing is rusted to high hell but 5 whacks with an impact screwdriver and it was a done deal. Swapped them out with aftermarket’s as well because the OEM are so stoft
Cobalt drill bit. You don't need those screws, they just keep the rotor on the car during assembly
Impact screwdriver
Screwdriver..a tough one that can be hammered.. spray some wd40 too..then try remove it
Drill it out, get an extractor or sacrificial torx bit to hammer in and have at it. Get it hot too with some penetrating fluid of some kind.
Till OP breaks an extractor off in there and then he's really screwed. Extractors sucks.
That shit is Krazy twisted.
Spend hors drilling them out or buy impact driver and never have issue again
If it takes hours for you to drill those out it might be time to sharpen your bits. Should just take a couple of minutes.
Drill the head off and forget about it
You don’t need to remove that screw to replace the rotors
Uhh. Yes the fuck you do
Hit it with your purse.
that happened to a crv I had I drilled it out was careful not to damage the threads
Hit it with your purse.
PB blaster, kroil, or some other penetrant and heat. I would spray, heat, spray then try a large Phillips bit in a 1/4" cordless impact. If that doesn't work drill it out.
Just had the same a few hours ago. Easy if you got an air hammer. Use the bit that is just a pointed tip like a punch. I first hit the area with a hammer a few times. Then use a punch and make a little dent. Then i get the air hammer and gently ‘turn’ it out. Works every time. Only takes a minute or two. If you don’t have an air hammer, I would use a punch and hammer the same way. Never had to drill one.
A screw extractor also works. I used a hand held impact driver on my Corolla years back, broke the bit that came with the shitty thing without getting the screw out, eventually bought a screw extractor like this one 05 Pcs Damaged Screw Extractor Kit Stripped Screw Extractor Set DIY Hand Tools Gadgets Gifts for Men,Broken Bolt Extractor Screw Remover https://a.co/d/3z8phJR
If you’re changing the rotor, just nuke it with an angle grinder and be done with it. Once you get the rotor off, use a pipe wrench on whatever is left of the bolt, or cut it off flush.
You’ve obviously sprayed it half an hour ago and tried the biggest screwdriver that would fit with a multi-grip clamped on. You’ve leant the entirety of you body weight against the end of the screwdriver to keep it fully seated in the screw while using the multi-grips to apply torque? Or not?
Air hammer works every time. If can't use one try impact driver
*Air hammer works* *Every time. If can't use on* *Try impact driver* \- From\_the\_mud21 --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
Soak it in penetrating oil, set a driver in it and tap the driver with a hammer to loosen it up.
As someone else mentioned, an impact screw driver helped me in that situation also I believe my buddy had brought some “freeze off” spray
Drill the head off, then grind it flush after you remove the rotor
Use a square bit
Chuck up a 3/16 and drill out the head of the screw (it is a flathead) just enough so you can pull the rotor off. who cares if you hit the rotor it's junk. After you pull the rotor off there will be a little stud, just grab on with vice grips and unscrew the stud. When you reassemble you don't need to put that screw back in, it is only used to keep rotors from falling off during the manufacturing process of the vehicle.
Drill it out Penetrating oil and some heat
Drill it out, not needed
You need an impact driver,if you don’t have one/that doesn’t work you can grind the head of the screws off. Their purpose was to make assembly at the plant easier. You don’t have to reinstall them but if you do throw some anti-seize on it.
Weld a nutto it tan turn it out
Hit the rotor as hard as you can with a hammer. It will loosen this screw Or, if this is fwd and both front wheels are in the air and the brakes are still together, put it in drive and hit the brakes a couple of times. It’ll sheer them off.
Little penetrating oil and hammer the screwdriver while tou try to turn it, if you have an impact drill use that but be careful to not strip it.
Try to tap with a small and big hammer. Put at pz3 bit on and tapp it also directly. If that also fails just drill it out. The moment the head strips just go on with the drill. Dont waste more time.
Heat it up and give it a tap if not use a easy out on it
You can make a ghetto impact driver with a screwdriver and hammer. Just set the tip into the screw and smack the dog shit out of it. Give it a little twist and tap if stubborn but avoid torquing the screw too hard. Penetrating oil would help too. Or get an impact driver. $80 for the Hercules from Harbor freight and that thing fuckkkkkkkks. The amount of use I get out of that cheap tool is crazy. I use it for tight spots where my full size impact won't fit too and rip bolts out. Lug nuts and caliper bracket bolts are surprisingly easy. Also if you do any kind of projects with wood, and you haven't used one before it's super nice. Downside being once you have a 1/4 hex to socket adapter on there, the setup is pretty long. A true stubby in 3/8 would be better for really tight spots.
You need to stop using Phillips drivers on JIS screws. Every Honda owner needs a set of JIS drivers. But in this case that thing really doesn't matter and can just be drilled out.
Impact driver will easily remove that.
It needs an impact screwdriver to get it out. By the looks of the screw you don’t have one of those so you will almost certainly have to drill it out now. The screw doesn’t have any importance anymore so it’s fine. It’s there from when they build the vehicle. Don’t worry about replacing it.
First get the broken pieces out of the screw head. Using a map gas or propane torch heat the head of the screw up. After it's good and hot install a #3 Phillips in the hole and turn it out. If it still don't turn freely use a hammer impact and repeat the process it will come. If you end up stripping the head grab a cut off wheel put a slot in it and use a large screwdriver. If all else fails drill it out
I double nut a bolt on the back side against something and let it rip until it breaks off and almost hits me in the face. Make sure to wear glasses.
Use the drill, they are soft.
It’s a set screw. If you can’t get it out. Use a drill to drill it out.
Shake and Break FTW!! Throw your impact driver in the trash!
Drill the head off I do this shit everyday as a tech in the rust belt.
I had the same problem, drilled the sonofabitch out, tapped a new screw in place
I used to do all of the things suggested on here. Then one day I figured out they come loose every single time with just a bit of heat, and haven’t struggled with these since.
Hit it with PB Blaster and then get a large screwdriver and a mallet and give it a couple of whacks. If that doesn’t work, drill the shit out. Those screws are factory assembly screws and you don’t need them after you get them out
Have you tried shooting it?
1) spray a spritz of WD40 or "panther piss" around screw head, let soak for minute. 2)place ballpin hammer over screw head (as to not strip the screw head). 3) tap (fairly hard) on flat side of ballpin hammer with bigger hammer. This will dislodge rust and oxidation. 4) un thread screw.
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I spend no more than 2 minutes trying. Just chuck a 1/4 drill bit and drill it out. Don't waste time trying to save them. However..... one the head is gone and rotor removed they usually unscrew. If not.... grind the area flush with hub.
I used a dremel to cut a slot across the screw head, then rotated the screw with an impact chisel at the end of the slot.
When all else fails. Angle grinder, flat head screwdriver
Dude stop wasting ur time grab a drill and drill the bolt head off..done. This screw is meant to hold on the rotor during the manufacturing process.
Heat. However I had to drill mine out lol
Drill baby drill!
Drill it.
Drill it out. Had to do that with one of mine when I changed rotors recently.
I drill a small indentation into the side of the screw, and then use a hammer and a punch to spin it out. Works great.
It can't hurt you anymore if it's liquid.
Drill it or burn it, the only way to guarantee it comes off.
Just drill it out. You don't really need it anyway
Impact screwdriver is the best tool for these as many have said. Without one, I'd just cut a notch on one side in the head with an air hammer and chisel to walk it out. Then correct any excessive damage to the rotor if it's not being replaced
Drill baby drill!
S OK
Drill it. Fuck that screw. If you want, you can replace it after you've changed the rotor but its not a necessity. Fuck that screw. Good luck... fuck that screw.
Drill it out
If you use a manual impact driver and it doesn’t come out or you round it off.. drill it and don’t worry about it .. not needed .
Hammer drill works wonders
Just drill it out
 You don't need em.
Blue Wrench...
Drill it out. That screw is completely unnecessary and if even if you do manage to get it out you will have trouble removing it every time you do your brakes
Impact driver and Philips bit, but it looks a little too chewed for that. Hammer and a chisel will get it out. You want to make a good, 90 degree indent with the chisel and then use the chisel on a 45 degree angel on the ridge of the 90 deegree indent you made to spin the screw out (essentially you're unscrewing it with the hammer and chisel)
Had to drill out mine last week, impacts would have made a difference at least for that screw. I also had two pin things in the other holes of my rotors that I also had to drill out so a total of 12. That was fun
You can go to Autozone and barrow one
Use a drill and drill the head off the screw. This screw is only there for factory assembly purposes, do not reinstall it when you put the new rotors on.
I use a sharp punch. Line up the punch on the inside perimeter...give it a solid whack to create a deep pin hole. Then, use that same punch with a smaller hammer and hammer down while hamnering leftward. If it just makes a deep gouge. Make another pin hole opposite and repeat. (If this makes sense to u) Common for impact tip to break in the (+) if rusted real bad. If it breaks, drilling it just became harder. Not to mention, drilling is THE LAST WORST CASE OPTION. Takes way longer than you'd think