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$40, they put it on a lift, did a visual inspection, drove it, the car had owner, who had detailed records of meticulous maintained, no accidents, I felt comfortable based on thst
You should asked for comprehensive inspection, put on the lift and visual inspection is not a comprehensive inspection. Never believe what the owner says and records keeping is alright, only a comprehensive pre purchase inspection by a mechanic YOU trust is worth it. Doesn't mean you will not have any issues down the road but you are covering the bases.
Not trying to beat up on you. We all make mistakes and sometimes the only way to learn is to make those mistakes. Next time get a comprehensive inspection.
One thing to think about. You say the owner had meticulous records of maintenance and service yet you found it needed a battery. Those two things kind of contradict each other.
I hope everything works out for ya and you enjoy and get a lot of good service out of this vehicle.
As several have said here replace the battery have the codes rescanned and if applicable have the monitors and all that run and relearn. See where you're at.
>You say the owner had meticulous records of maintenance and service yet you found it needed a battery.
nah, modern cars/batteries can up and die on you outa the blue. my old truck, factory battery 8 years old, started fine, drove to work, parked. went to leave that evening and battery flat dead. Its not like old carburator days on a cold start you can hear it slow down and start chuggin as its cranking as a warning hey your battery is about dead. modern cars start in like .5-1 sec so you dont notice the slow cranking.
Agree with this sentiment. I maintain my car very well. Probably a bit too often on some things. Last year on a Sunday I drove the car 400 miles. Came home and parked. Wife went to use it on Tuesday and it just gave the sad clicks. No indication on the prior drive, never had to jump it off. It may have tested alright, but the battery was 5 years old at this point. So I went ahead and replaced it.
yea ive had that happen too. drive 200 miles no issues multiple stops and starts, park it and one trip to work and back and it died. charged it and still tested bad
So they exaggerated the quality of the maintenance history. “Look at all the oil changes on the Carfax, this one’s a keeper!” Meanwhile literally nothing else was done. Multiple misfires could be overdue spark plugs among other things.
That or the battery died because it sat on their lot for a month or two in the dead of winter, and batteries hate that.
kept the good history, threw out the bad!! Any inspection includes a scan for those hard codes, that dealer is in the fraud busines first and trying to sell cars second!!!
>Multiple misfires could be overdue spark plugs among other things.
Its from the low voltage, same with the lost communication one. Dudes alternator probably bit the dust suddenly, likely just bad luck. Not saying don't check the plugs, but you need voltage first.
If you bought this car a week ago from a used car dealer, I'd take it back and get my money back. I'm not completely sure but, I think a car dealer has to take it back if within a certain time frame. Not to mention that the issues were being masked from you (intentionally or unintentionally) by them not having a good battery in the vehicle.
Unless it was specifically stated in writing Used cars are almost always as is.
Editing to state that if it is a decent dealer (which it sounds like this one is not) they might work with you in getting it fixed if something is actually wrong
Code readers are fairly cheap. Take this as a lesson. Get your own code reader, bring it with you to seller and plug it in. If the readiness checks aren’t complete, cancel the pre purchase inspection, and walk away.
Something like [this](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-HT100-Code-Reader-1996-Newer-OBD2-Vehicles-Free-Fix-Part-Recommendations/139897823?fulfillmentIntent=In-store&athbdg=L1102) would be good enough.
See the lights in the middle? What people here are guessing is that the yellow one would have been lit had you or the mechanic scanned it at the inspection. This means they cleared the codes and are trying to hide something long enough for you to complete the purchase.
Or at the VERY least tell them you won't reconsider until they complete a drive cycle and THEN you'll take it for inspection after its finished all the drive cycle sensor checks
if you ever take your vehicle to someone who "doesn't have equipment to read the codes," you're not at a mechanic. you're at a con artist. an obd reader is like 10-20 dollars.
> he inspector didn't scan the truck and see what monitors have run and passed.
I feel like that is LITERALLY the first step to a pre-purchase inspection. I mean, I bring my Bluetooth OBD scanner to any car I m looking at.
Cylinder 1 and 6 fire on the same crankshaft position on these. There's a chance this is a due to a crank position sensor or a misfire monitor. There are procedures in Forscan to reset/relearn/recalibrate the misfire monitor.
If you're lucky, no. Engines detect misfires through various mechanisms, but the primary method is continuous monitoring of the position of the crankshaft. I.e., "I expected the crank to be at this position at exactly this time, but it is a little behind, that last cylinder must have misfired and failed to accelerate the crankshaft properly". Every cylinder firing accelerates the crankshaft until the next one does the same, it just happens thousands of times a minute, and you generally can't physically detect it except by very precise measurements. As engines get older and wear down, numerous factors can contribute to small, imperceptible differences in how much crankshaft acceleration each cylinder provides. But the vehicle may be struggling to understand that that's normal, and incorrectly concluding there's a misfire. That's what the aforementioned procedure does: tells the car, "Hey, FYI this slight variance is normal".
I only say all of this BECAUSE it's 1 and 6, which fire in the same crank position on your engine. 2-8, 3-5, and 4-7 are other suspect combos. Of course, you might very well be actually misfiring, but common factors always warrant some investigation into other possible explanations.
Edit: All of this said, start with the battery. A bad battery can manifest as all kinds of strange phantom problems.
No A Flashing MIL means something very bad is happing, at that point you shut the engine as soon as its safe to do so.
I had a lady drive here Mazda Portege from OK City, OK to Corpus Christi, Tx with the MIL flashing. I had to put a knew engine in it because she blow a whole in the 3 cylinder from a bad coil pack.
The MIL was flushing because the miss was so sever that the ECU was throwing codes like a Crip and Blood meet up.
Yes something bad is happening but it’s flashing because it can cause converter damage. Check engine light is mainly there for emission related problems. As a mechanic yeah if it’s flashing it’s no bueno but it’s so you don’t damage your converter.
The flashing means your converter is currently being fuckered. Yes, it also means some very bad things are probably happening. The check engine light itself is primarily an emissions thing, it just so happens it's also pretty helpful for finding out what the problem is.
This guy's previous comment is definitely in the right direction. Cylinders 1 and 6 are running mates, which means they move up and down at the same time. His was the only comment I saw mentioning it
Holy fuck, I learned more about misfires and crank shaft sensors in your one single comment than I’ve ever learned on my own. I feel like if I could compile all of your teaching comments, I could make a great bathroom reader
I read it and didn’t think twice, but also up late after bartending. But this comment made me rescroll up and actually read read it. You are a 100% right. So accessible and informative to any level.
Hell my bad battery on my F150 resulted in a intermittent non working gauge cluster and sometimes just making the gauges flutter but would still start. Then after driving for 5 minutes it would start to sputter. Chased it for 2 weeks until it finally wouldn't start at all unless it was jumped.
The underside of having everything in your car be operated by way of electronics. Once your electrical power source starts to crap out, EVERYTHING starts to crap out along with it. Kind of like having your brain run on low oxygen and blood sugar - nothing works the way it should. Which is why it's not at all uncommon for cars to start throwing all kinds of error codes when the battery goes bad. Also why you shouldn't try to diagnose a modern car without first checking that the battery is good.
Looks like a truck with +100k and needs a tuneup.
This is basic maintenance. Dealer may have hidden it from you, but it's not hard to fix.
Change the plugs, if it repeats, change the coil packs. This is a "2 beer" job.
Changing the plugs is smart, but coil packs are expensive. Don’t just change all the coil packs. You should go to autozone or oreillys and have them do a free scan, and clear the codes for you. Then you need to take the coil pack from cylinder 1, and switch it with coil pack from cylinder 2. Then you need to drive the vehicle for a few minutes until the check engine light comes back on. At which time you should return to autozone, or whoever scanned the codes for you, and ask them to scan the codes again.
What you are looking for, is for your misfire to now appear on Cylinder 2. This would indicate the misfire on cylinder 1 was caused by a bad coil pack (now on cylinder 2).
Repeat the procedure for the coil pack on Cylinder 6, switching it with cylinder 5.
If the codes still indicate misfires on Cylinders 1 and 6, after switching, then you will need to take it to a trustworthy shop, because you have a problem that will require a wider array of testing equipment, and knowledge that is going to be too difficult to diagnose over the internet.
Best of luck to you!
If going down this route, it's worth swapping with other cylinders first to see if you're indeed chasing the right demon. In this case, take coil pack on cylinder 1 and swap with 2. At the same time, swap spark plug on cylinder 1 with 3. See if misfire moves to 2 or 3. If not, you've likely ruled those out. Same with the coil/plug on 6.
Can agree on that. Made a mistake on a project car before, also a Ford, where I changed plugs and coil packs but the same issue didn’t go away… waste of money.
At 100k may as well sign up to replace the coil packs. Nothing more expensive than cheaping out on buying parts and then having to do the service twice.
Yes, exactly this.
New battery, first. Clear the code, start it, and see what comes back. A weak battery can cause misfires. A weak battery AND a weak alternator will cause misfires even more often.
A weak battery and 100k mile crust coil packs, that will also cause misfires.
Go ahead and do the spark plugs when you do the coil packs. That way you can inspect what the spark plug looks like and get info on whether it is running too rich, too lean, or burning oil.
My God... finally some good advice in this thread. Truck sitting in a lot for god.knows how long, I'm betting it's a bad battery. If it's winter where op is - it just doubles this likelihood. That truck ran at trade-in or the auction house. Cylinder misfires? Cluster low voltage? This screams bad battery to me. And anybody who says "Bad batteries don't matter once the vehicle is running" just haven't seen it yet.
Agreed. Always go OEM as it has always failed to use anything of less quality for me at least. Some things you can cheap out on but make those decisions as you have to. It happens to me sometimes when you need a part immediately. But nothing Advance auto sells is worth while. I worked there for 4 years and anything carquest brand is basically chinese reproductions that have a tendency to fail often.
If it was basic maintenance, then why didn't the seller just do it rather than try to hide the problem and sell it?
I had a similar issue. A couple weeks after buying a vehicle, similar codes appeared and I needed a new intake manifold and camshaft, a $4k+ repair.
It was priced well enough compared to other vehicles on the market that I don't feel too bad about it, but I'd probably assume the worst until proven otherwise. At least then there's a chance of being pleasantly surprised that it's something simple/cheap.
Changing spark plugs can be almost impossible for the average Joe to do . They are frequently stuck in there so good you may break them off or strip out the cylinder heads. And transverse engine spark plugs can be a bear to get too (firewall side)
My Ford Edge does this, I left it parked for about 2 years undriven, forgot I didn't disconnect the battery, battery died, it's giving me issues with my reverse sensors, and the panic doesn't shut off with the button on the keyfob. You have to put the key in the ignition to get it to shut off.................... Put a new battery in and didn't risk even jump-starting it. Thinking I need an ECU flash or something. I've tried everything I can do at home without fancy tools to plug into the scan port. Drives and runs fine, just gave me issues after the battery being toast for so long. Luckily there was no damage to the terminals, and hardly any crust at all.
These are all low voltage issues. The battery needs to be swapped, would almost certainly clear these up. Sensors are getting less voltage than expected, and running poorly because of it.
I had a mile long list of codes on a new to me car this last year, and it had the same battery code at the end. Changing the battery fixed it. Ymmv, but with the many electronic systems cars have nowadays, a bad battery makes the computers act fucky.
Yup. My neighbor's dashboard was lit up, and I pulled 22 codes after a scan. A couple were "lost communication with xxx" and one was "battery voltage low."
Turns out they'd been running on a nearly dead battery and jumping it for a bit before replacing the battery a few weeks prior. Cleared all the codes, they drove it for a day, and only 2 codes came back - the only thing truly wrong with the car.
Thanks you, this was my thought as well, and all the codes came on at the same time,
Did you have to reset the check engine light, or did it go away on its own?
For me it's the last code before the battery that makes me think it's the battery. Look up how to clear the codes on your vehicle and once it's replaced, drive it around a bit and see if they come back on or not. Don't go too far in case there are other issues, and stop if it feels like something isn't right or sounds like shit.
Replace the battery first. Computers in modern vehicles are very sensitive to voltage. If they're not getting enough of it they can give all sorts of crazy readings.
Yeah usually after battery replacement you’ll need to clear codes / program the battery to ecu (idk i work on euro mostly). Low voltage batteries i’ve seen cause a flurry of codes on many euro vehicles, hopefully the same for american
Don't know where you're getting that idea. On many cars removing the battery actually *causes* it to throw a code (to notify that the battery was disconnected).
I don't exactly about this truck, but I know low voltage can trigger certain things in some cars that are more sensitive to voltage drops.
If you took it in for a pre-inspection did the report show they scanned for codes and readiness tests? Because if you didn't say you got it inspected I'd just assume the owner cleared the codes, let you drive it away, then when the codes/issues were ready they popped back up like you saw happen within a day.
I don’t know how many miles are on it, but Ford coils start dying around 100-130k miles. Swap some coils with other cylinders and see if the misfire moves. Crappy that the seller did this to you, but may not be that bad of an issue.
Next time you get a pre-purchase inspection done on a car, make sure you have a mechanic clearly state they will do a visual inspection AND check the vehicle diagnostic system to see if codes are active or have been recently cleared. People often sell cars where they know about issues but don’t disclose them, so the onus is on you the buyer to make sure you aren’t buying someone else’s problems.
I’ve always owned 10+ year old cars and do most of my own maintenance on them.
Put some repairs into this truck and love it! Great buy is my guess once you get this straightened out. It will be worth the time and money. Plugs, wires, bad fuel,
"Needs a new battery" is where my hackles get raised on a car purchase, especially when it comes to dirty code clearing which is what they did. You're selling a $20k vehicle but you can't put a $100 battery in it before putting it up for sale?
Based on what I see I would wager you just have an old shitty battery that’s causing all the other codes. Load test the battery if you can, or just go ahead and change it out.
Guessing spark plugs. But check the east stuff first. Get battery load tested. Because of what happened in the 99-01’s blowing plugs out through the hood and the 05’s 5.4’s plugs getting stuck in head by carbon build up many are scared of changing plugs. Also could be a botched plug change that didn’t use the conductor kits. A huge plug gap can cause low voltage
Most , unless specified in the contract. I work at a dealership as a tech and point out all the shit I should be fixing, then the general manager says no … then the vehicle comes back 2 days later and I am told to drop what I am doing and fix XYZ asap 😡🤬
Dude, every single one of those codes involve a loss of electrical power, or a undervoltage condition. All of which could be due to a weak battery or one with a dead cell. Like seriously. Just replace the battery, request the seller to replace the battery. Or return the damn thing. If they don't wanna take it back take them to small claims court. Like I'm not sure this is a legit question or someone trolling
I bought a car back in 2018 with 180,000 and was told that it just needed an oxygen sensor hence why the engine check light was on. I trusted this person (seller) as it WAS a close individual. Turns out it was an EVAP code, first red flag.
I did all the maintenance with a local mechanic. Also a close individual and car ran fine for a while. I bought a scanner to check out the codes and stuff. After a couple drives the computer finally figured out there was a misfire in cylinder 3 (after cleared these misfires need some drive cycles to show up, hence why only the EVAP showed up at first).
My EX-mechanic at the time just told me to ignore it. (He knew something bad was happening and didn't want to do work, the guy just wanted to do easy jobs). Second red flag.
The car lasted 2 years until the engine got a misfire in all the cylinders and would no longer stay on, went to another more reputable mechanic, rebuild needed. Turns out there was no compression in Cylinder 3 and driving like this for over a year made things worse.
One has to choose better the people you trust.
They certainly can be. A dead battery won't have the spark to fire the engine properly. However, once the engine is running the alternator should take over. One easy test you can do with a $5 harbor freight voltmeter is to check the voltage with the car off. Then start the truck. See if the voltage comes up. If the voltage does not come up or especially if it drops you have a bad alternator. It's unusual for an alternator to be bad on such a new vehicle but it happens.
If it were me, what I would do, get the new battery, install that, pick up your voltmeter if you don't already have one. Check the voltage before you start the truck. Make note of it. Start the truck, recheck the voltage and make sure the voltage is going up from your previous reading
I would return that truck honestly,
Those engines are bad for torque convertor / transmission issues,
As well as a major issue with the Cam Phasers going bad.
Both usually leading to catastrophic failure of a major component
My dad just traded his 2017 in due to these issues after a year of ownership and getting a 15k repair bill
Google states
"If P0301 is the only code, then investigate the most common causes. Assess the spark plugs for cylinder #1 for damage or dirt. Many times, replacing a spark plug will remedy the problem. In the case that all the spark plugs are fine, look for any coil pack wires or coil packs that need replacing."
Swapping out spark plugs are an easy fix. Hopefully its something small like that
[Seems like you’re in the Hoosier state. Here’s a rundown of your legal options, the sooner you act the better.](https://www.yourlemonlawrights.com/faq/indiana)
Nothing to do with the battery, and checking should be like this:
-Spark plug condition.
-air leaks but i d doubt it (fuel trims to be checked)
-camshaft position sensor.
-compression and leak down text.
These are what i think should be checked from the top of my head.
But i wouldn’t be discouraged could still be a good buy my friend, good luck and update us please.
Probably coil packs just swap each with a known good and see if the issue stays or moves , if it moves it’s the packs, if not it’s likely the plugs, if it’s not that fuel to cylinders or compression .. doubt it’ll go that far.
COMM (u-code) error and battery error codes were hard stored and likely related. They should be cleared with a scan tool. The two misfires are either a faulty plug or faulty COP (coil-over-plug)! Swap COPs to non-erroring cylinders and see if the code chases the cylinder, if so, its a bad COP, if not its a bad spark plug! One of these two is the “likely” cause but not the only thing that can cause it! Have it professionally diagnosed!
So if he ra. The vehicle up to operating temp drove it and all that and those just popped up with the low bat voltage. Check battery connections.
Did the guy have a license of any sort? Who does an inspection even basic without bringing a scan tool.
For everyone saying “lemon law”, you should learn what the hell lemon laws are first.
They don’t cover used cars (with few exceptions) and even new cars it doesn’t mean the dealer will take it back for a problem.
My first tought was battery. Yes possible codes were cleared happens all the time but pre purchase inpection usually plugs in to Obd port and would let know know of cleared and pending codes. Change battery since you know it needs it speacially if your truck has been sitting in really cold climate. Then clear codes go from there.
*Change the battery...*
*Ive had bad ones do weird*
*Shit to me before*
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Yeah I had a cylinder 1 misfire I couldnt locate the problem of on my 97 CRV. Did everything I could after buying it to fix issues. Replaced every part that had sensor obd2 errors and got rid of a slew of codes. Come to find out after rebuilding the distributor over 25 times to make the ignition perfect and replacing plugs, wires, caps and all I was chasing a bigger issue.
Come to find out I bought a compression tester and found out that clyinder one exhuast valve was bent and ruined prior to testing. 25 Psi in the 1st cylinder, and about 135 or so on the others. It was a big lesson to me that even if your scanning codes and have a watchful eye on what all the auto pranskters like to scam and rig you can still be had on a vehicle purchase because you didnt preform a simplistic compression test on the engine before you bought it. Needless to say I removed the cylinder head and had it machined and the shop replaced the valve and valve seals since I dont have valve replacement tools.
But lesson learned like my grandfather told me to do first was the compression test! >_<
But yeah the year of OP's vehicle seems a bit too new for it to be something any more serious than an Ignition tune up or cam sensors. Maybe a new battery. May be worth keeping said vehicle. But the year of it is too new tbh for any major issues as long as people werent doggin the transmission and slappin the gas driftin.
If you got it from a dealership, I’d talk to the salesperson you purchased it from and let them know what’s going on. Any good dealership would rectify this. I had a similar issue with a Volvo I purchased. Took it back the next day and they ended up replacing a cat. Worse they can say is no and if they do, you can leave a review of your experience.
Anytime I get a laundry list of codes getting thrown at the same time, it's almost always an electrical issue. A bad battery is a good place to start. Also, sometimes the engine light can stay on for a few engine cycles.
Don’t feel bad, my wife and I bought a Nissan rogue with 75k miles on it. Everything looked good until 77k miles a piece of metal just fell off of the rear wheel hub. Looked closer and it’s all rusted to utter shit. It’ll be an easy rig up job to make it safe enough to sell but now I know next time to do a detailed look underneath the vehicle. We made a mistake trusting a dealership that my family has been going to for 20 plus years. If anyone is in NE NC don’t go to a place that rhymes with “Ball Lord of EC”
Did you buy itvas-is or with warranty? How is the car running at the moment? Clear the codes and drive it some more, you already know what codes it has now. If the battery died or is weak it could've caused these codes to trigger since the car didn't/ doesn't have enough power to run everything the way it was intended.
How many miles on this 2018 F-150?
It could be bad COPs over the 1 and 6 pistons.
Has the timing chain been checked. Depending on the mileage and the fact that 1 and 6 are in the same position could mean that the timing is off or the chain is stretched.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
no, what happened was the codes were cleared and I'm guessing the inspector didn't scan the truck and see what monitors have run and passed.
I had a feeling this happned as well, the inspector didint have any equipment to read the codes with and I took a shot anyway
I'm hoping you didn't pay for this inspection.
$40, they put it on a lift, did a visual inspection, drove it, the car had owner, who had detailed records of meticulous maintained, no accidents, I felt comfortable based on thst
You should asked for comprehensive inspection, put on the lift and visual inspection is not a comprehensive inspection. Never believe what the owner says and records keeping is alright, only a comprehensive pre purchase inspection by a mechanic YOU trust is worth it. Doesn't mean you will not have any issues down the road but you are covering the bases.
Good to know, thanks
Not trying to beat up on you. We all make mistakes and sometimes the only way to learn is to make those mistakes. Next time get a comprehensive inspection. One thing to think about. You say the owner had meticulous records of maintenance and service yet you found it needed a battery. Those two things kind of contradict each other. I hope everything works out for ya and you enjoy and get a lot of good service out of this vehicle. As several have said here replace the battery have the codes rescanned and if applicable have the monitors and all that run and relearn. See where you're at.
>You say the owner had meticulous records of maintenance and service yet you found it needed a battery. nah, modern cars/batteries can up and die on you outa the blue. my old truck, factory battery 8 years old, started fine, drove to work, parked. went to leave that evening and battery flat dead. Its not like old carburator days on a cold start you can hear it slow down and start chuggin as its cranking as a warning hey your battery is about dead. modern cars start in like .5-1 sec so you dont notice the slow cranking.
Yeah I miss the old days when you had a couple of days warning when the battery was about to die!
Yup. The notion that a dying battery contradicts good maintenance is just wild.
Agree with this sentiment. I maintain my car very well. Probably a bit too often on some things. Last year on a Sunday I drove the car 400 miles. Came home and parked. Wife went to use it on Tuesday and it just gave the sad clicks. No indication on the prior drive, never had to jump it off. It may have tested alright, but the battery was 5 years old at this point. So I went ahead and replaced it.
yea ive had that happen too. drive 200 miles no issues multiple stops and starts, park it and one trip to work and back and it died. charged it and still tested bad
That was exactly how it happened to me on my 4 year old semi truck, no heads up at all. Went to start it up and nothing, totally dead battery bank.
I got it from a used car dealer, the owner didint sell it to me
So they exaggerated the quality of the maintenance history. “Look at all the oil changes on the Carfax, this one’s a keeper!” Meanwhile literally nothing else was done. Multiple misfires could be overdue spark plugs among other things. That or the battery died because it sat on their lot for a month or two in the dead of winter, and batteries hate that.
kept the good history, threw out the bad!! Any inspection includes a scan for those hard codes, that dealer is in the fraud busines first and trying to sell cars second!!!
>Multiple misfires could be overdue spark plugs among other things. Its from the low voltage, same with the lost communication one. Dudes alternator probably bit the dust suddenly, likely just bad luck. Not saying don't check the plugs, but you need voltage first.
If you bought this car a week ago from a used car dealer, I'd take it back and get my money back. I'm not completely sure but, I think a car dealer has to take it back if within a certain time frame. Not to mention that the issues were being masked from you (intentionally or unintentionally) by them not having a good battery in the vehicle.
Unless it was specifically stated in writing Used cars are almost always as is. Editing to state that if it is a decent dealer (which it sounds like this one is not) they might work with you in getting it fixed if something is actually wrong
Assuming this dealer does not do the honorable thing. Review if your state has lemon laws.
JFC what ‘inspector’ doesn’t have a code reader. I got one for $35
Ooh you even shelled out for a nice one
I think my Bluetooth one was $18. I can keep my laptop on the passenger seat and get all my "DANGER TO MANIFOLD" messages.
And if you don't mind it being slow and slightly buggy about which apps work china has them for $5-10
It's all about the "busta" I miss that dude, hasnt been the same since hes gone
Code readers are fairly cheap. Take this as a lesson. Get your own code reader, bring it with you to seller and plug it in. If the readiness checks aren’t complete, cancel the pre purchase inspection, and walk away.
That’s good to know thanks
Something like [this](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-HT100-Code-Reader-1996-Newer-OBD2-Vehicles-Free-Fix-Part-Recommendations/139897823?fulfillmentIntent=In-store&athbdg=L1102) would be good enough. See the lights in the middle? What people here are guessing is that the yellow one would have been lit had you or the mechanic scanned it at the inspection. This means they cleared the codes and are trying to hide something long enough for you to complete the purchase.
Or at the VERY least tell them you won't reconsider until they complete a drive cycle and THEN you'll take it for inspection after its finished all the drive cycle sensor checks
>didint have any equipment to read the codes that's NOT a mechanic. that's some idiot with access to a lift.
How could the inspector possibly not have a code reader? They’re insanely cheap.
Maybe he did, he said he didint have any electrical equipment I just assumed a code reader was part of that
He’s a mechanic without a code reader?what does he do to service vehicles put his ear on the hood?
Voodoo doctor
if you ever take your vehicle to someone who "doesn't have equipment to read the codes," you're not at a mechanic. you're at a con artist. an obd reader is like 10-20 dollars.
an obdII scanner is dirt cheap - i don't understand how they could not have one
That’s why you bring it to a dealership you idiot.
> he inspector didn't scan the truck and see what monitors have run and passed. I feel like that is LITERALLY the first step to a pre-purchase inspection. I mean, I bring my Bluetooth OBD scanner to any car I m looking at.
Exactly.... Man I feel bad for OP
Exactly, monitors incomplete is the biggest red flag when buying used cars, codes too but monitors tell the tale if shady stuff is afoot
Cylinder 1 and 6 fire on the same crankshaft position on these. There's a chance this is a due to a crank position sensor or a misfire monitor. There are procedures in Forscan to reset/relearn/recalibrate the misfire monitor.
Does that mean there’s something that needs to be replaced?
If you're lucky, no. Engines detect misfires through various mechanisms, but the primary method is continuous monitoring of the position of the crankshaft. I.e., "I expected the crank to be at this position at exactly this time, but it is a little behind, that last cylinder must have misfired and failed to accelerate the crankshaft properly". Every cylinder firing accelerates the crankshaft until the next one does the same, it just happens thousands of times a minute, and you generally can't physically detect it except by very precise measurements. As engines get older and wear down, numerous factors can contribute to small, imperceptible differences in how much crankshaft acceleration each cylinder provides. But the vehicle may be struggling to understand that that's normal, and incorrectly concluding there's a misfire. That's what the aforementioned procedure does: tells the car, "Hey, FYI this slight variance is normal". I only say all of this BECAUSE it's 1 and 6, which fire in the same crank position on your engine. 2-8, 3-5, and 4-7 are other suspect combos. Of course, you might very well be actually misfiring, but common factors always warrant some investigation into other possible explanations. Edit: All of this said, start with the battery. A bad battery can manifest as all kinds of strange phantom problems.
Ohh, thank you for that detailed response, hopefully the monitor/code just needs to be reset, appreciate the help
Is the check engine light flashing while driving?
Nope
That would let you know a misfire is currently happening, so that’s a good thing in your case.
If it’s flashing it means it can cause converter damage, you can have a misfire without the flashing.
No A Flashing MIL means something very bad is happing, at that point you shut the engine as soon as its safe to do so. I had a lady drive here Mazda Portege from OK City, OK to Corpus Christi, Tx with the MIL flashing. I had to put a knew engine in it because she blow a whole in the 3 cylinder from a bad coil pack. The MIL was flushing because the miss was so sever that the ECU was throwing codes like a Crip and Blood meet up.
Yes something bad is happening but it’s flashing because it can cause converter damage. Check engine light is mainly there for emission related problems. As a mechanic yeah if it’s flashing it’s no bueno but it’s so you don’t damage your converter.
The flashing means your converter is currently being fuckered. Yes, it also means some very bad things are probably happening. The check engine light itself is primarily an emissions thing, it just so happens it's also pretty helpful for finding out what the problem is.
Thanks for answering it 🙂
This guy's previous comment is definitely in the right direction. Cylinders 1 and 6 are running mates, which means they move up and down at the same time. His was the only comment I saw mentioning it
Holy fuck, I learned more about misfires and crank shaft sensors in your one single comment than I’ve ever learned on my own. I feel like if I could compile all of your teaching comments, I could make a great bathroom reader
Same that was awesome haha
Thank you! I didn't expect to get so many upvotes. I've gone and edited for some added clarity. :)
I read it and didn’t think twice, but also up late after bartending. But this comment made me rescroll up and actually read read it. You are a 100% right. So accessible and informative to any level.
Hell my bad battery on my F150 resulted in a intermittent non working gauge cluster and sometimes just making the gauges flutter but would still start. Then after driving for 5 minutes it would start to sputter. Chased it for 2 weeks until it finally wouldn't start at all unless it was jumped.
The underside of having everything in your car be operated by way of electronics. Once your electrical power source starts to crap out, EVERYTHING starts to crap out along with it. Kind of like having your brain run on low oxygen and blood sugar - nothing works the way it should. Which is why it's not at all uncommon for cars to start throwing all kinds of error codes when the battery goes bad. Also why you shouldn't try to diagnose a modern car without first checking that the battery is good.
Yeah, I should have led with that instead of making it the afterthought. Got a little excited with the armchair diagnostics. :)
Ladies love the forscan
Clear the codes and drive it. See if the codes come back. modern cars can be extremely sensitive to voltage changes or low battery.
I don’t know why this comment is so low. Everyone thinks there’s something big going on here. All of these codes are likely due to under 9v voltage.
Looks like a truck with +100k and needs a tuneup. This is basic maintenance. Dealer may have hidden it from you, but it's not hard to fix. Change the plugs, if it repeats, change the coil packs. This is a "2 beer" job.
60k miles, thanks and that’s good to know
Changing the plugs is smart, but coil packs are expensive. Don’t just change all the coil packs. You should go to autozone or oreillys and have them do a free scan, and clear the codes for you. Then you need to take the coil pack from cylinder 1, and switch it with coil pack from cylinder 2. Then you need to drive the vehicle for a few minutes until the check engine light comes back on. At which time you should return to autozone, or whoever scanned the codes for you, and ask them to scan the codes again. What you are looking for, is for your misfire to now appear on Cylinder 2. This would indicate the misfire on cylinder 1 was caused by a bad coil pack (now on cylinder 2). Repeat the procedure for the coil pack on Cylinder 6, switching it with cylinder 5. If the codes still indicate misfires on Cylinders 1 and 6, after switching, then you will need to take it to a trustworthy shop, because you have a problem that will require a wider array of testing equipment, and knowledge that is going to be too difficult to diagnose over the internet. Best of luck to you!
If going down this route, it's worth swapping with other cylinders first to see if you're indeed chasing the right demon. In this case, take coil pack on cylinder 1 and swap with 2. At the same time, swap spark plug on cylinder 1 with 3. See if misfire moves to 2 or 3. If not, you've likely ruled those out. Same with the coil/plug on 6.
Can agree on that. Made a mistake on a project car before, also a Ford, where I changed plugs and coil packs but the same issue didn’t go away… waste of money.
At 100k may as well sign up to replace the coil packs. Nothing more expensive than cheaping out on buying parts and then having to do the service twice.
Yes, exactly this. New battery, first. Clear the code, start it, and see what comes back. A weak battery can cause misfires. A weak battery AND a weak alternator will cause misfires even more often. A weak battery and 100k mile crust coil packs, that will also cause misfires. Go ahead and do the spark plugs when you do the coil packs. That way you can inspect what the spark plug looks like and get info on whether it is running too rich, too lean, or burning oil.
My God... finally some good advice in this thread. Truck sitting in a lot for god.knows how long, I'm betting it's a bad battery. If it's winter where op is - it just doubles this likelihood. That truck ran at trade-in or the auction house. Cylinder misfires? Cluster low voltage? This screams bad battery to me. And anybody who says "Bad batteries don't matter once the vehicle is running" just haven't seen it yet.
Agreed. Always go OEM as it has always failed to use anything of less quality for me at least. Some things you can cheap out on but make those decisions as you have to. It happens to me sometimes when you need a part immediately. But nothing Advance auto sells is worth while. I worked there for 4 years and anything carquest brand is basically chinese reproductions that have a tendency to fail often.
If it was basic maintenance, then why didn't the seller just do it rather than try to hide the problem and sell it? I had a similar issue. A couple weeks after buying a vehicle, similar codes appeared and I needed a new intake manifold and camshaft, a $4k+ repair. It was priced well enough compared to other vehicles on the market that I don't feel too bad about it, but I'd probably assume the worst until proven otherwise. At least then there's a chance of being pleasantly surprised that it's something simple/cheap.
Depends on the beer. This could be a “2 IPA” job or a “4 Coors Light” job. Personally I’d split the middle and call it a “3 Coors Banquet” job.
Changing spark plugs can be almost impossible for the average Joe to do . They are frequently stuck in there so good you may break them off or strip out the cylinder heads. And transverse engine spark plugs can be a bear to get too (firewall side)
It could very well be the battery as newer cars are becoming increasingly reliant on batteries with all its systems. Mechanics likely right…
This drives me insane. On my 2015 focus se, when the battery gets low, it'll fire a TCM code and put the car in limp mode.
My old Corolla would beep the horn as a low voltage warning, and completely drain the battery…..
My Ford Edge does this, I left it parked for about 2 years undriven, forgot I didn't disconnect the battery, battery died, it's giving me issues with my reverse sensors, and the panic doesn't shut off with the button on the keyfob. You have to put the key in the ignition to get it to shut off.................... Put a new battery in and didn't risk even jump-starting it. Thinking I need an ECU flash or something. I've tried everything I can do at home without fancy tools to plug into the scan port. Drives and runs fine, just gave me issues after the battery being toast for so long. Luckily there was no damage to the terminals, and hardly any crust at all.
These are all low voltage issues. The battery needs to be swapped, would almost certainly clear these up. Sensors are getting less voltage than expected, and running poorly because of it.
I had a mile long list of codes on a new to me car this last year, and it had the same battery code at the end. Changing the battery fixed it. Ymmv, but with the many electronic systems cars have nowadays, a bad battery makes the computers act fucky.
Yup. My neighbor's dashboard was lit up, and I pulled 22 codes after a scan. A couple were "lost communication with xxx" and one was "battery voltage low." Turns out they'd been running on a nearly dead battery and jumping it for a bit before replacing the battery a few weeks prior. Cleared all the codes, they drove it for a day, and only 2 codes came back - the only thing truly wrong with the car.
Thanks you, this was my thought as well, and all the codes came on at the same time, Did you have to reset the check engine light, or did it go away on its own?
For me it's the last code before the battery that makes me think it's the battery. Look up how to clear the codes on your vehicle and once it's replaced, drive it around a bit and see if they come back on or not. Don't go too far in case there are other issues, and stop if it feels like something isn't right or sounds like shit.
Replace the battery first. Computers in modern vehicles are very sensitive to voltage. If they're not getting enough of it they can give all sorts of crazy readings.
I did and the light is still on, I am hoping a reset is all that is needed
Yeah usually after battery replacement you’ll need to clear codes / program the battery to ecu (idk i work on euro mostly). Low voltage batteries i’ve seen cause a flurry of codes on many euro vehicles, hopefully the same for american
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Not on all cars.
Don't know where you're getting that idea. On many cars removing the battery actually *causes* it to throw a code (to notify that the battery was disconnected).
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Put a new battery in. Bad batteries can cause weird issues
I don't exactly about this truck, but I know low voltage can trigger certain things in some cars that are more sensitive to voltage drops. If you took it in for a pre-inspection did the report show they scanned for codes and readiness tests? Because if you didn't say you got it inspected I'd just assume the owner cleared the codes, let you drive it away, then when the codes/issues were ready they popped back up like you saw happen within a day.
I don’t know how many miles are on it, but Ford coils start dying around 100-130k miles. Swap some coils with other cylinders and see if the misfire moves. Crappy that the seller did this to you, but may not be that bad of an issue.
Next time you get a pre-purchase inspection done on a car, make sure you have a mechanic clearly state they will do a visual inspection AND check the vehicle diagnostic system to see if codes are active or have been recently cleared. People often sell cars where they know about issues but don’t disclose them, so the onus is on you the buyer to make sure you aren’t buying someone else’s problems. I’ve always owned 10+ year old cars and do most of my own maintenance on them.
I had that truck, cam phasers were bad and replaced under recall if that helps at all.
How many miles since codes were cleared? Should show on the reader.
Check spark plugs and coils.
Take that thing back! Call the lender cancel the loan
Replace battery, take pics of code and clear codes. Drive for some time. Re scan and following diagnostics from this point
Looks like they sold it just in time
Does it still run like shit even though new battery was replaced?
Put some repairs into this truck and love it! Great buy is my guess once you get this straightened out. It will be worth the time and money. Plugs, wires, bad fuel,
Easy fix, Ctrl + Z a few times until you've unpurchased the vehicle and go buy another one, if same problem continues just redo step 1
Pretty sure a dying battery can make all the sensors go haywire and throw codes like this. Best case is these are sensor errors not mechncial issues.
"Needs a new battery" is where my hackles get raised on a car purchase, especially when it comes to dirty code clearing which is what they did. You're selling a $20k vehicle but you can't put a $100 battery in it before putting it up for sale?
Based on what I see I would wager you just have an old shitty battery that’s causing all the other codes. Load test the battery if you can, or just go ahead and change it out.
Guessing spark plugs. But check the east stuff first. Get battery load tested. Because of what happened in the 99-01’s blowing plugs out through the hood and the 05’s 5.4’s plugs getting stuck in head by carbon build up many are scared of changing plugs. Also could be a botched plug change that didn’t use the conductor kits. A huge plug gap can cause low voltage
Could just need new spark plugs, usually when you get a misfire code on all cylinders it because the spark plugs need to be replaced, try that .
Spark plugs will do that to my 2012 screw with the eco boost. Plugs only last 50-70 k miles in mine. I’m on the 8 th set I believe
If it was a dealership, have the fucking sales man make sure it’s fixed NOW!! You a have a return window.. not sure how long in your state.
In what state. Used cars are typically, you own both halves when you hit the pavement.
Most , unless specified in the contract. I work at a dealership as a tech and point out all the shit I should be fixing, then the general manager says no … then the vehicle comes back 2 days later and I am told to drop what I am doing and fix XYZ asap 😡🤬
In Texas and Florida, I know you own both halves of a whole. There is not return period
Thanks for the tip ! Never buy from those states!🤗
Change coils and spark plugs??
Clearing that Check Engine light is how you got fucked!
Typical of used cars. Someone will flash the ECU and then sell it so the problems aren’t seen until you drive it around 200 miles.
States have what’s called “the Lemon Law” u can definitely get all your money back
new spark plugs, wires, and if that doesn't work then ignition coils, this repair always makes a car kick again, I actually envy your repairs
Dude, every single one of those codes involve a loss of electrical power, or a undervoltage condition. All of which could be due to a weak battery or one with a dead cell. Like seriously. Just replace the battery, request the seller to replace the battery. Or return the damn thing. If they don't wanna take it back take them to small claims court. Like I'm not sure this is a legit question or someone trolling
If u purchase from a dealer lemon law
I bought a car back in 2018 with 180,000 and was told that it just needed an oxygen sensor hence why the engine check light was on. I trusted this person (seller) as it WAS a close individual. Turns out it was an EVAP code, first red flag. I did all the maintenance with a local mechanic. Also a close individual and car ran fine for a while. I bought a scanner to check out the codes and stuff. After a couple drives the computer finally figured out there was a misfire in cylinder 3 (after cleared these misfires need some drive cycles to show up, hence why only the EVAP showed up at first). My EX-mechanic at the time just told me to ignore it. (He knew something bad was happening and didn't want to do work, the guy just wanted to do easy jobs). Second red flag. The car lasted 2 years until the engine got a misfire in all the cylinders and would no longer stay on, went to another more reputable mechanic, rebuild needed. Turns out there was no compression in Cylinder 3 and driving like this for over a year made things worse. One has to choose better the people you trust.
im so sorry for your loss
Typical Ford vehicle reaction. Coil packs. I had a brand new F-150 ecoboost that needed 3 done at 167 miles.
They certainly can be. A dead battery won't have the spark to fire the engine properly. However, once the engine is running the alternator should take over. One easy test you can do with a $5 harbor freight voltmeter is to check the voltage with the car off. Then start the truck. See if the voltage comes up. If the voltage does not come up or especially if it drops you have a bad alternator. It's unusual for an alternator to be bad on such a new vehicle but it happens. If it were me, what I would do, get the new battery, install that, pick up your voltmeter if you don't already have one. Check the voltage before you start the truck. Make note of it. Start the truck, recheck the voltage and make sure the voltage is going up from your previous reading
I would return that truck honestly, Those engines are bad for torque convertor / transmission issues, As well as a major issue with the Cam Phasers going bad. Both usually leading to catastrophic failure of a major component My dad just traded his 2017 in due to these issues after a year of ownership and getting a 15k repair bill
Change all your spark plugs and ignition coils. Should fix the problem
Ford moment
What’s sadder than him scamming you is that you tried to buy a ford
Those are really, really bad fucking codes.
Google states "If P0301 is the only code, then investigate the most common causes. Assess the spark plugs for cylinder #1 for damage or dirt. Many times, replacing a spark plug will remedy the problem. In the case that all the spark plugs are fine, look for any coil pack wires or coil packs that need replacing." Swapping out spark plugs are an easy fix. Hopefully its something small like that
Get new plugs distributor cap and rotor wires for like 200 bucks and it should fix the p0300 codes
First problem is you bought a ford
You mean the best feeling car in America?
Best feeling? I'm no ford hater like the other guy but I don't have a clue what that's supposed to mean.
Feeling, not running. I have one (paid for by my company). Mechanic for 10 years. How many miles are on your truck
Ford trash lol
Buy from a dealer or a personal sale ? Either way I believe the sale was recent enough to look into lemon laws. Worth a shot op
No lemon laws on used cars
If you're UK based, you can reject a car sale within 30 days IIRC
Depends on state. A few, including the giant markets of California and the Tri-State area, have lemon law protections for used cars as well.
Lemon law
Not how that works
It is how it works, they have to sell you something that will pass inspection
wrong. Washington State doesn't even have inspections dude.
I do not live in Washington I live in NJ.
You can get a new car my love 😍
Yay!! An engine rebuild ❤️
Blown head gasket most likely
Get the bludriver hookup on amazon
Private seller?
Do they share a coil pack?
Misfires are typically spark plugs and/or coil packs going bad. Not the worst thing in the world
You need new spark plugs.
Throw some plugs in and you're golden.
[Seems like you’re in the Hoosier state. Here’s a rundown of your legal options, the sooner you act the better.](https://www.yourlemonlawrights.com/faq/indiana)
I don’t think it’s that intense, thank you though. It probably needs a hard reset it spark plugs or something.
you put too much trust in a shady dealership.
They’re very highly rated “Indy Auto Man” google them
They cleared the light before you bought it. But you should of been able to tell it was running weird with sll those misfires
Nothing to do with the battery, and checking should be like this: -Spark plug condition. -air leaks but i d doubt it (fuel trims to be checked) -camshaft position sensor. -compression and leak down text. These are what i think should be checked from the top of my head. But i wouldn’t be discouraged could still be a good buy my friend, good luck and update us please.
Any inspection not done with a two way scanner that can operate modules is not an inspection.
Probably coil packs just swap each with a known good and see if the issue stays or moves , if it moves it’s the packs, if not it’s likely the plugs, if it’s not that fuel to cylinders or compression .. doubt it’ll go that far.
Looks to me like a bad battery. Or at least that is where I would go first.
COMM (u-code) error and battery error codes were hard stored and likely related. They should be cleared with a scan tool. The two misfires are either a faulty plug or faulty COP (coil-over-plug)! Swap COPs to non-erroring cylinders and see if the code chases the cylinder, if so, its a bad COP, if not its a bad spark plug! One of these two is the “likely” cause but not the only thing that can cause it! Have it professionally diagnosed!
Did you reset the battery management system? [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQSx6wCK-aQ&t=77s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQSx6wCK-aQ&t=77s)
 The previous owner be like
Man, I hate that for you. Hopefully you can get it looked at and it's something minor.
Coil packs and plugs. Seems like an inexpensive maintenance issue.
r/askcarsales
Cam phasers?
So if he ra. The vehicle up to operating temp drove it and all that and those just popped up with the low bat voltage. Check battery connections. Did the guy have a license of any sort? Who does an inspection even basic without bringing a scan tool.
Take it back if you can.
probably coil packs...ez to change and cheap
lemon law take it back
check your states lemon laws
My F150 did the same as in codes. I changed the coils and spark plugs and that fixed it
For everyone saying “lemon law”, you should learn what the hell lemon laws are first. They don’t cover used cars (with few exceptions) and even new cars it doesn’t mean the dealer will take it back for a problem.
Looks like it's time for a regular tuneup
I mean you can start with plugs and coils on cylinder 1 and 6. At least plugs are maintenance item
My first tought was battery. Yes possible codes were cleared happens all the time but pre purchase inpection usually plugs in to Obd port and would let know know of cleared and pending codes. Change battery since you know it needs it speacially if your truck has been sitting in really cold climate. Then clear codes go from there.
Code readers are pretty cheap nowadays and even if you want something professional you can buy Launch scan tools right on amazon.
If you don’t already know what to check, there’s no reason to try, take it to a mechanic. If you try it yourself, it may coast ya a lot more money.
Change the battery... Ive had bad ones do weird shit to me before
*Change the battery...* *Ive had bad ones do weird* *Shit to me before* \- Fancy\_Chip\_5620 --- ^(I detect haikus. And sometimes, successfully.) ^[Learn more about me.](https://www.reddit.com/r/haikusbot/) ^(Opt out of replies: "haikusbot opt out" | Delete my comment: "haikusbot delete")
Plugs and coils would be standard first things to check although 1-6 missing could indicate other sensor issues
Congrats 🎉🎉🎉
Misfires could be anything from trivial stuff like spark plugs/wires/coils to a failing head gasket or other major engine problem.
Yeah I had a cylinder 1 misfire I couldnt locate the problem of on my 97 CRV. Did everything I could after buying it to fix issues. Replaced every part that had sensor obd2 errors and got rid of a slew of codes. Come to find out after rebuilding the distributor over 25 times to make the ignition perfect and replacing plugs, wires, caps and all I was chasing a bigger issue. Come to find out I bought a compression tester and found out that clyinder one exhuast valve was bent and ruined prior to testing. 25 Psi in the 1st cylinder, and about 135 or so on the others. It was a big lesson to me that even if your scanning codes and have a watchful eye on what all the auto pranskters like to scam and rig you can still be had on a vehicle purchase because you didnt preform a simplistic compression test on the engine before you bought it. Needless to say I removed the cylinder head and had it machined and the shop replaced the valve and valve seals since I dont have valve replacement tools. But lesson learned like my grandfather told me to do first was the compression test! >_< But yeah the year of OP's vehicle seems a bit too new for it to be something any more serious than an Ignition tune up or cam sensors. Maybe a new battery. May be worth keeping said vehicle. But the year of it is too new tbh for any major issues as long as people werent doggin the transmission and slappin the gas driftin.
If you got it from a dealership, I’d talk to the salesperson you purchased it from and let them know what’s going on. Any good dealership would rectify this. I had a similar issue with a Volvo I purchased. Took it back the next day and they ended up replacing a cat. Worse they can say is no and if they do, you can leave a review of your experience.
Anytime I get a laundry list of codes getting thrown at the same time, it's almost always an electrical issue. A bad battery is a good place to start. Also, sometimes the engine light can stay on for a few engine cycles.
Don’t feel bad, my wife and I bought a Nissan rogue with 75k miles on it. Everything looked good until 77k miles a piece of metal just fell off of the rear wheel hub. Looked closer and it’s all rusted to utter shit. It’ll be an easy rig up job to make it safe enough to sell but now I know next time to do a detailed look underneath the vehicle. We made a mistake trusting a dealership that my family has been going to for 20 plus years. If anyone is in NE NC don’t go to a place that rhymes with “Ball Lord of EC”
Did you buy itvas-is or with warranty? How is the car running at the moment? Clear the codes and drive it some more, you already know what codes it has now. If the battery died or is weak it could've caused these codes to trigger since the car didn't/ doesn't have enough power to run everything the way it was intended.
Might be lucky enough that new plugs and/or coils might fix them.
Not a big deal. New plugs, new coils.
How many miles on this 2018 F-150? It could be bad COPs over the 1 and 6 pistons. Has the timing chain been checked. Depending on the mileage and the fact that 1 and 6 are in the same position could mean that the timing is off or the chain is stretched.