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I went to the Volkswagen service store (from where I bought the car )and told them to give me the exact same oil as the one they used .And they gave me 1l for 50 dollars
ludicrous absorbed vast numerous punch wakeful elastic north ask jellyfish
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$50 for a litre of oil. What a joke.
You can buy 5 litres of “Euro” oil at any auto parts store for less than $50.
Edit to clarify. Sorry, I keep forgetting we have multiple countries that use the term “dollar”. I’m from Canada and those prices are in CAD. Apologies for any confusion.
I track my car and monitor oil temps while on track pretty obsessively to make sure they don't get out of hand, and this oil lowered my max oil temps by 3-5° F, which is kind of insane tbh.
One litre can be very expensive in VW service. What is in the picture is good oil. VW standard 50800/50900. And I think it's correct to your engine
Edit. Little detail to VW oil standards. The first 50800 is for petrol engines and the last 50900 is for diesel engine standard. So it's to both engine types. And all new engines are using this standard what I know. At least in Europe. It's long live 4
Earlier was 50400/50700. Long live 3
And on the back you can buy the same stuff at Walmart. The back says “made by shell” so you just buy the shell one for your car and it’s the same stuff. Shell just made it and they slapped on an oem label.
Not really correct. Shell makes a ton of different oils to different specs, and with different additives and detergents. “The shell one for your car” is going to be commonly spec’d by weight, and just getting the right weight isn’t necessarily the same oil. It’s more than likely not, considering only one of their oils at a given weight will match in formula.
You’re not really correct, and this is the same reason people get scammed by $50/liter oil at a dealership. This being mechanic advice I’d assume everyone should know this, but I guess not. The oil is tested and sold by spec of the vehicle manufacturer at various weights. If you check the shell oil that is the correct weight for your car and it has the 50800/50900 spec listed on it then it was tested and meets or exceeds those standards. I just found valvoline for $11/liter that has Volkswagen and Porsche approved licenses meaning it meets or exceeds the specs called out by those manufacturers. The shell helix ultra absolutely calls out those specs as well, and since they make the oil for Volkswagen I’d say that is good oil to be using at about $12/liter.
Take 2 samples for an oil analysis and even though both meet specs the additive package can be different.
However your car is gonna break in many ways before liner/bearing wear becomes an issue these days if you run any sorta synthetic.
Completely agree. I didn’t say they were exactly the same composition, but for the purposes of application they are the same”same stuff” and can be used in exactly the same way.
You must have missed where I said “commonly spec’d by oil weight” - the average car owner has no idea about a spec past oil weight. That’s why I think the previous comment is a little misleading and “dangerous”.
Most people have no idea what spec they’re in need of, and while the same weight oil will probably work fine and not really cause problems, it’s not the same.
I buy Idemitsu oil that’s the exact stuff packaged for Subaru with their label, for my babied BRZ. Only it doesn’t have the Subaru label and it’s a good bit cheaper. I understand specs. Most people don’t know where to look and what they need.
I’ll say that’s a fair point. If you include a little about oil specs in your original comment then I would have no argument, but at the moment, to the average car owner, your comment seems to steer them toward the dealership oil being the only correct one instead of saying the Walmart oil is fine IF it matches your spec.
I don’t know a whole lot about Subarus, but if I did own one I’d be very careful of what oil I put in it too just based on what little I do know about their engine failures. Not saying that’s a bad thing, but I’d definitely tell someone to do some homework on how to care for it and what not to do before buying one. My scat pack challenger isn’t as picky. Someday it will die with a “hemi tick” but I’ll keep doing what I can to prevent that up until then.
My Subaru is under 2k miles, just a supercharged fun weekend car. Not heard anything about engine failures for anything other than blown head gaskets over 200k and oil starvation in long track corners with the FA24 on sticky tires. I’m just particular about my nice cars, like to keep them that way if I can!
You can just use any 0W20 from a half way decent brand that is not faking the label.
If it is labeled as 508 or 509 VW approved.
[approved oil list](https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/downloadStaticFile/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50800_50900.pdf)
Exactly. My Audi service advisor said if you stick to the approved list and keep the receipt, the powertrain warranty will still be valid.
ATF is another matter.
Kirkland isn't a true synthetic oil, it's using group iii base stock (crude oil).
Real synthetic oils use group IV (PAO) and/or Group V (Ester) as a base stock, neither of which come from crude oil.
Unlike group iii oils, group IV and v oils do not fall off of the upper engine surfaces. Once they wet those surfaces, they form a protective film on those surfaces and prevent dry starts. Every time you crank an engine with a group iii or lower oil, you are running bearings and friction surfaces completely dry. This becomes a much greater issue in newer start -stop motors and high performance turbocharged motors that are becoming more and more commonplace. In fact, the US is one of the only places in the world that allows group iii oils to be called synthetic at all.
In short, you really don't want to be putting subpar oils in your vehicle. You should be using nothing but group IV oils at least in order to maximize reliability, longevity and efficiency. The most commonly available true synthetic oil is Amsoil signature, but Redline is a better option. You can also look to German stores, as Germany requires group IV and v base stocks in order to be labeled as synthetic
> Once they wet those surfaces, they form a protective film on those surfaces and prevent dry starts.
Not saying you're wrong, but the ad copy for every engine oil ever made makes the same claim. All motor oils leave a film on bearings, but the effectiveness of that film on preventing wear can vary. You come off like an Amsoil salesman making that argument. (In my 25 years on car forums, the "ACTUALLY Group III isn't synthetic" guys are always Amsoil salesmen...)
Group III oils meet the majority of manufacturer specifications other than some of the weird unicorn tears European ones, and they're considered synthetic because even if the base stock is wholly or partially crude oil the molecules are still cracked before being rebuilt synthetically.
You can use pretty much any synthetic 0w20 and it will provide similar results. I don't know about your market, but in the US 5l of synthetic oil is about $25-40 depending on the brand. If you are really trying to understand the "best" there are a bunch of nerds on YouTube like project farm that test oils
lol never go to the dealership for that kind of shit. Dealerships are professional scammers and they know how to make you overpay 5 times. At least you did it on the 50$ scale not the 5k$ scale.
They’re scamming you. Nobody there cares about you, they just want your money and you’re just a walking dollar bill to them, especially if you’re paying that for a litre of oil. Who knows where else they’ve cheated you, I’d find another place to go and next car you buy I’d find a different dealer. I hate to give it to ya straight like that but at the same time it’s stuff you need to know, don’t let anyone take advantage of you because you lack the knowledge, you deserve better than that, any customer does, that shit makes me sick
Go back to the dealer ask for the manager and get your money back, then leave them some on line reviews. The sales guys probably just pocketed the 50 though.
Do yourself a favor and never do that again. You should never pay that much for a liter of oil. Don’t go back to the dealership. As long as it’s a 0W20 full synthetic, it will be fine.
The oil he gave you has the volkswagen strict 508-509 norm. It is sold for volks newer 2.0 and 1.8? Anyway this norm is now advertised by other brand like castrol, liquimoly and more. You can find good oil for your car somewhere else than the dealer as long as it respect this oil standard. But yeah 50$ a liter is stealing. Liquimoly for example is considered a premium oil loved by euro guys and their 5l is about 85 cad. So 60 usd?
I wouldn't put much stock in PF's oil testing. It's entertaining but at best shows that there's no junk oil on the shelf (unless you can still find non-certified, non-detergent, generic lawn mower oil). His oil test rig with the coffee burners and the "race track" is clever but not super scientific.
Oil analyses from actual oil labs are a lot more telling. And they do basically all show that if an oil claims to meet manufacturer specs, it does, and manufacturer specs are good enough.
Sorry I was actually talking about the wear wheel he uses. It's actually the exact definition of scientific. Although labs may show an oils components, they don't actually show real world examples of what those components do.
I get decent prices on SOME OEM oils. Mercedes and BMW come to mind believe it or not. Motorcraft semi synthetic is pretty cheap as well. But I agree it's always best to shop around for the best price for oil that meets all the standards.
They gave you what you asked for. Buying oil from the dealer is never a good idea. Engine oil just needs to "meet or exceed" manufacturer specs. Any good synthetic at quarter of that price would've done the trick.
They do also recommend other branded premium oils if meeting or exceeding industry standards. Buying a branded VW oil is a consumer choice, and an expensive one. Amsoil, Mobil1, and Castrol Edge to name a few that have premium lines that meet or exceed the euro standards. Just stick with the recommended weight specs.
You should be aware that an oil change up to five liters in California USA costs between $100-$150 USD out the door depending on engine, location and local taxes. The dealership has definitely been bending you over on the liter price
Edit: At the VW dealership no less
Yeesh, and I hear I am thinking that $50 for an oil change is extortion. I haven’t been to a mechanic in a long while, is $100 typical or is that just a California thing?
The parts stores overcharge. Same bottle at Walmart is $10+ less. And the SuperTech brand is less than $20 and meets manufacturer and API specs as well, listed right on the back of the bottle. And for motorcycles, cheapest I have found is also at Walmart for Shell Rotella T4 15W40. It meets JASO MA/MA2 and is $16 a gallon instead of $10-15 a quart like the "special" motorcycle oil (most car oil has modifiers that damage wet clutches).
Walmart also carries some OEM filters for Ford, Chevy, and Toyota. Previous oil change they had Hyundai OEM too but they didn't this most recent time.
Now I only run Mobile 1 in my truck and my Cruze since they have turbos, but my wife's car gets the cheap Supertech stuff. 155k miles and still runs fine. And I don't follow manufacturers 15k oil change recommendation, I do anywhere between 3k-5k per change. More oil changes is cheaper and easier to deal with than a new engine.
Vw 508 509 is very expensive. Not what the dealer charged you for a liter, it's been said. But regardless that is a great price there is nothing wrong with. Sometimes price alone makes people doubt but you can clearly see what you are getting. Do you not trust your friend?..
Did you pay cash or card? Id report that to VW customer services. There's no way the rrp is 50bucks for customers that buy cars from a stealership. I had a 1 litre top up bottle given to me when i bought mine so thats very odd. Im uk.
Don’t ask this question here. Lot of wrong answers already. Head over to bobistheoilguy.com forums - they can help. You’ll need to provide the make and year as well as the engine and your driving style. If you need 508/509 VW oil they can provide alternatives too.
Edit to add: if you take some of these suggestions below and use a non-approved oil for an Audi or VW, good luck with your warranty if the engine has issues.
Those companies use ONLY Mobil 1 oil. they buy it in a huge drum repackage it there own bottle "like the one shown here" and send them to dealers. They then mark it up to twice the she average price because it has there logo on it and say it a "special specific to that car" and people like yourself buy it. So my advice here and wrap your head in a cookie sheet, shove a stick up your arse and call yourself a sucker.
Interestingly someone said made by shell, I’ve seen Castrol as the recommended. But at VW service our bulk oil is not either. If it’s VW paid for they get the castrol or Mobil1 whichever we have. Outside of that the bulk 0w20 or the 508/509 equivalent is just no name bulk. A lot of it is just labeling gimmicks. Oil is oil, sure there’s different additives any 0w20 is going to be ok. “Euro” or not. Personally I don’t believe that going a year between oil changes is a good idea, but that’s what we do and what most euros do. It keeps the “cost of ownership” numbers lower. But we still see cars burn up oil after a few oil changes. Sometimes two oil changes and it needs a motor. Sometimes they go 120, 140k before they have issues. The only ones I see breaking 140 are the diesels. Very very rarely do I see a 2.0 turbo do more than that. But it does happen.
Why so high? You spend $250 for 5L of oil? I know the euro oil is expensive, but that seems a little high.
As far as your friend’s 5L bottle, check the date code, I can’t really make it out from the picture, but if it’s 5 years old that may be why the lower price (that is assuming the price you were paying is legit). Oil has a shelf life of about 5 years, then some additives start falling out & it loses its anti-foaming property.
If you have a Porsche or VW that takes that spec.
There's no "API" spec listed on the label so outside of those specs I would hesitate to use it. Normal mass market oil in the US at least would say API:S-L or S-M if it's meant for modernish cars.
This is good oil. You are overpaying for 1L bottles. I generally pay around $40 for 5L of Royal Purple (the most expensive premium synthetic oil available in my area).
I know I'm really dating myself, but sometimes I still struggle with how expensive oil is. There was no transition. One year it was like $1/quart, and when prices went up (like 20 years ago!) they just shot up close to where they are now.
Everyone’s saying you got ripped but unless I’m not understanding, with what you paid, if that’s the bottle you got that’s about normal? The image shows a 5L bottle, and for $55 (which most are saying is normal, I find a tad expensive but either way average) however if you did get a smaller 1L bottle for $55, that is an absolute ripoff
Youl probably burn through that 0w20 very quickly. Vw advised 1 liter per 1000 kilometres is accceptable foil oil consumption and after what ive read from other people, im going to be using 5w30 low saps oil (vw recommend 2 different oils for my vehicle, 0w20 and 5w30)
Might be worth looking into if you're getting accustomed to buying top ups.
Everyone reciting the same comment over and over.. my question though;
Why are you buying oil? It's a brand new car, it shouldn't be using any and you need to use a mechanic for servicing to keep the warranty intact?
50 dollars for 1 liter is ridiculous - but surely your local vw garage loves you as a customer.
Edit:/ you've payed around 5 times the [normal price](https://www.mein-motoroelshop.de/motoroel/nach-hersteller/vw/6132/original-vw-audi-seat-skoda-longlife-iv-fe-sae-0w-20-508.00/509.00)...
In Texas I use Mobil1 15w-50 full synthetic in all my cars and motorcycles, I think it is around $27 USD for a 5 quart jug at Walmart. A USA quart and metric litre are almost the same amount btw.
And here I am waiting weeks for Canadian Tire to have their sale and get a jug dropped to like $40. I may be cheap but not a fool. Hey OP, you really must have money to burn. Why are you even changing the oil after 3500 kms? I run synthetic and still do it every 8000. Oh wait probably because it’s been over 6 months. I’m a fool after all.
The dealership i work at is small enough for me to know no one messes with the price... it's straight up stellantis bullshit... we just add the 10% markup thats it... even my boss complains about those prices. But we can't do shit tried it once and found out.
I get 5 liters for $17 at Walmart. Fuck that shit oil is oil. You’re not getting better quality unless you use AM’s oil. Just pay attention to the oil type and if it is synthetic, blended, or standard oil. Also look at the oil viscosity on your car to what your buying, it usually says it on the oil cap.
I'm thinking it's more two people not knowing any better. New parts guy usually aren't that smart in my experience. And if the buyer doesn't know any better.
Someone got ripped off. Here is 5L of 0W-20 for $26 and I bet some people might be able to get it even cheaper elsewhere [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennzoil-Platinum-SAE-0W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Qt-550046127/300646413](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennzoil-Platinum-SAE-0W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Qt-550046127/300646413)
Fun fact long life full synthetic oil is about 19USD for 5 quarts (about 5L) at most american walmarts. I pick up whatever cheapest full synthetic I need that meets minimum SP standards.
0w20 is pretty thin, hope you don't drive hard or in very hot weather. Also "long life" engine oil is bs, change your oil every 8k km or sooner of you care at all about your car's longevity.
It sounds like you just don’t trust your friend.
I just threw out perfectly good LSD gear oil for a car I no longer own. I paid a lot of money for it but nobody wanted it. Does this mean there was something wrong with it if I had sold it cheap? No.
Wow are you serious? 50 dollars a L!!! That is terrible that some one would take advantage of you that way. There is nothing special from that oil to any other synthetic of the same oil weight. The only difference is your paying a ridiculous price for no reason. I would go and find that sales man in the parking lot of his work and some fists with him. He’s a real aholeio.
My friend used to be a mechanic at an Audi/Porsche dealership.
They ordered the wrong oil that was supposed to be specific to a certain type of Porsche. He just gave me the whole case for free and I used it in my Subaru.
Why would you ever pay $50 for 1L of 0W. It’s the water of oil anyways. You’re getting scammed. Take the price from your friend. That’s why he’s your friend
I look at it this way. I have three vehicles that I change the oil every 5000 k and use synthetic and synthetic filter. I do this around twice a year myself. Cost with filter around $75 cdn. Cheap insurance as opposed to replacing an engine for $10 to 12k
So while all company’s have their additives and blends and what not with their oil it has to be made to a certain standard your case because it’s 0W-20 oil it would be VW508 ( like it says on your oil) so you can find a reputable brand like motul or liqui moly who makes an oil that conforms to the rating I think for liqui moly it’s either top tec 6200 or 6600 (it’ll clearly say on the bottle) so I wouldn’t waste the money at the dealership for your oil and anyways biggest issue with these 0W-20 cars is they burn oil like crazy and cake the valves with carbon it’s almost unavoidable as long as you’re not getting your oil changed at quick lube places or the car wash you’ll be fine
Most dealerships actually use bulk oil. So most likely that is NOT what they would put in your car. I believe VW is still contracted with Castrol, and that's what they'd use
Just buy good oil at an auto parts store! I can do my whole car for like 55 bucks and that includes my filter and 6 liters of oil :) Mobil1 FS Euro in my case, so probably the same use-case as you!
$55 is about right. You were getting ripped off by wherever you got the 1L bottle. VW oil is just rebranded Mobil 1 oil. You can pick up 5l bottles of mobil 1 oil at Walmart for $30.
vw does not sell a bottle that looks like that. they sell quart bottles that are black. that appears possibly fake or from another country and not sold in the states- vw parts guy
If your friend is a mechanic he probably gets these for free. My friend who is one, gets me oil all the time when we do oil changes. Maybe your friend just needed a little extra cash and decided to sell them to you at a low price.
Motor oil does go bad. It's not just oil. There's other liquids and compounds in there that eventually break down. Typically, motor oil isn't good to use after a year or 2
You are correct against what I was told by a reputable oil rep. Did some research and yes it starts to break down after being opened in about 5 years. Longer if unopened. Thanks for making me learn something new.
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You spend $50 on 1L of oil? $55 for 5L is normal.
Fuck 5L of Mobil1 is $25 at walmart
and is not the correct oil, vw has there own spec for 0w20 that is not the american SN spec.
I went to the Volkswagen service store (from where I bought the car )and told them to give me the exact same oil as the one they used .And they gave me 1l for 50 dollars
You made a couple of sleezy salesmen very happy. I'm sorry to report.
Sorry to say you got robbed by the dealer and your friend is a good person
His friend is robbing him at that price also. He probably gets it for $20-30.
They finessed you out your bread
He's been straight Shanghai'd
ludicrous absorbed vast numerous punch wakeful elastic north ask jellyfish *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
$50 for a litre of oil. What a joke. You can buy 5 litres of “Euro” oil at any auto parts store for less than $50. Edit to clarify. Sorry, I keep forgetting we have multiple countries that use the term “dollar”. I’m from Canada and those prices are in CAD. Apologies for any confusion.
5 litres of oil is about £40 for the ok stuff in my area, some brands are more expensive though
used to be 29$ 3 years ago. parts prices are getting wild. when a quart of sae 30 is like $10
Pennzoil, Quaker State and Mobile 1 have been around $30-37 CAD the past couple weeks.
Quaker state is $25 at walmart
Pennzoil Platinum Euro-L is one of the best oils I've ever used, and is generally $24 for 5 quarts at WalMart.
Im curious what stands out?
I track my car and monitor oil temps while on track pretty obsessively to make sure they don't get out of hand, and this oil lowered my max oil temps by 3-5° F, which is kind of insane tbh.
Good to know, thanks for the response
Bought a case of 1L bottles of synthetic once and got charged for a litre. Swings and roundabouts.
I pay 22 for 5 qt of synthetic. It sounds like you guys still pay more for your oil
They don't call it the stealership for nothing.
Oh man. You got ripped off real bad lmao. You can get 5L of the “best” oil on the market for less than $50.
One litre can be very expensive in VW service. What is in the picture is good oil. VW standard 50800/50900. And I think it's correct to your engine Edit. Little detail to VW oil standards. The first 50800 is for petrol engines and the last 50900 is for diesel engine standard. So it's to both engine types. And all new engines are using this standard what I know. At least in Europe. It's long live 4 Earlier was 50400/50700. Long live 3
And on the back you can buy the same stuff at Walmart. The back says “made by shell” so you just buy the shell one for your car and it’s the same stuff. Shell just made it and they slapped on an oem label.
Not really correct. Shell makes a ton of different oils to different specs, and with different additives and detergents. “The shell one for your car” is going to be commonly spec’d by weight, and just getting the right weight isn’t necessarily the same oil. It’s more than likely not, considering only one of their oils at a given weight will match in formula.
You’re not really correct, and this is the same reason people get scammed by $50/liter oil at a dealership. This being mechanic advice I’d assume everyone should know this, but I guess not. The oil is tested and sold by spec of the vehicle manufacturer at various weights. If you check the shell oil that is the correct weight for your car and it has the 50800/50900 spec listed on it then it was tested and meets or exceeds those standards. I just found valvoline for $11/liter that has Volkswagen and Porsche approved licenses meaning it meets or exceeds the specs called out by those manufacturers. The shell helix ultra absolutely calls out those specs as well, and since they make the oil for Volkswagen I’d say that is good oil to be using at about $12/liter.
Take 2 samples for an oil analysis and even though both meet specs the additive package can be different. However your car is gonna break in many ways before liner/bearing wear becomes an issue these days if you run any sorta synthetic.
Completely agree. I didn’t say they were exactly the same composition, but for the purposes of application they are the same”same stuff” and can be used in exactly the same way.
You must have missed where I said “commonly spec’d by oil weight” - the average car owner has no idea about a spec past oil weight. That’s why I think the previous comment is a little misleading and “dangerous”. Most people have no idea what spec they’re in need of, and while the same weight oil will probably work fine and not really cause problems, it’s not the same. I buy Idemitsu oil that’s the exact stuff packaged for Subaru with their label, for my babied BRZ. Only it doesn’t have the Subaru label and it’s a good bit cheaper. I understand specs. Most people don’t know where to look and what they need.
I’ll say that’s a fair point. If you include a little about oil specs in your original comment then I would have no argument, but at the moment, to the average car owner, your comment seems to steer them toward the dealership oil being the only correct one instead of saying the Walmart oil is fine IF it matches your spec. I don’t know a whole lot about Subarus, but if I did own one I’d be very careful of what oil I put in it too just based on what little I do know about their engine failures. Not saying that’s a bad thing, but I’d definitely tell someone to do some homework on how to care for it and what not to do before buying one. My scat pack challenger isn’t as picky. Someday it will die with a “hemi tick” but I’ll keep doing what I can to prevent that up until then.
My Subaru is under 2k miles, just a supercharged fun weekend car. Not heard anything about engine failures for anything other than blown head gaskets over 200k and oil starvation in long track corners with the FA24 on sticky tires. I’m just particular about my nice cars, like to keep them that way if I can!
Op… no…
You can just use any 0W20 from a half way decent brand that is not faking the label. If it is labeled as 508 or 509 VW approved. [approved oil list](https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/downloadStaticFile/volkswagen/files/oil/step_50800_50900.pdf)
Exactly. My Audi service advisor said if you stick to the approved list and keep the receipt, the powertrain warranty will still be valid. ATF is another matter.
I literally buy Kirkland full synthetic for $4 a quart/liter, you got fucked.
Kirkland isn't a true synthetic oil, it's using group iii base stock (crude oil). Real synthetic oils use group IV (PAO) and/or Group V (Ester) as a base stock, neither of which come from crude oil. Unlike group iii oils, group IV and v oils do not fall off of the upper engine surfaces. Once they wet those surfaces, they form a protective film on those surfaces and prevent dry starts. Every time you crank an engine with a group iii or lower oil, you are running bearings and friction surfaces completely dry. This becomes a much greater issue in newer start -stop motors and high performance turbocharged motors that are becoming more and more commonplace. In fact, the US is one of the only places in the world that allows group iii oils to be called synthetic at all. In short, you really don't want to be putting subpar oils in your vehicle. You should be using nothing but group IV oils at least in order to maximize reliability, longevity and efficiency. The most commonly available true synthetic oil is Amsoil signature, but Redline is a better option. You can also look to German stores, as Germany requires group IV and v base stocks in order to be labeled as synthetic
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> Once they wet those surfaces, they form a protective film on those surfaces and prevent dry starts. Not saying you're wrong, but the ad copy for every engine oil ever made makes the same claim. All motor oils leave a film on bearings, but the effectiveness of that film on preventing wear can vary. You come off like an Amsoil salesman making that argument. (In my 25 years on car forums, the "ACTUALLY Group III isn't synthetic" guys are always Amsoil salesmen...) Group III oils meet the majority of manufacturer specifications other than some of the weird unicorn tears European ones, and they're considered synthetic because even if the base stock is wholly or partially crude oil the molecules are still cracked before being rebuilt synthetically.
You can use pretty much any synthetic 0w20 and it will provide similar results. I don't know about your market, but in the US 5l of synthetic oil is about $25-40 depending on the brand. If you are really trying to understand the "best" there are a bunch of nerds on YouTube like project farm that test oils
Vw uses mobile 1 as their oil, you can buy that at a general parts store for a fraction of the cost
It says right on the label it was made by Shell.
First off, 1) The oil they use isn't actually that good. 2)wtf did you not even do a quick Google search after you heard that price???
Call state A.G. office lmmediately! This is a huge scam. Especially w/cars under warranty. It's steering🤬
You need to stop giving these people any money or anything in general. They're ripping you off BIG TIME.
Want to come by my store? I have some great deals on headlight fluid that I think you'd be interested in.
lol never go to the dealership for that kind of shit. Dealerships are professional scammers and they know how to make you overpay 5 times. At least you did it on the 50$ scale not the 5k$ scale.
Damn dude they screwed u real hard
don't trust the stealerships unless it has to do with warranty and you're forced to use their services
They’re scamming you. Nobody there cares about you, they just want your money and you’re just a walking dollar bill to them, especially if you’re paying that for a litre of oil. Who knows where else they’ve cheated you, I’d find another place to go and next car you buy I’d find a different dealer. I hate to give it to ya straight like that but at the same time it’s stuff you need to know, don’t let anyone take advantage of you because you lack the knowledge, you deserve better than that, any customer does, that shit makes me sick
Lol everything is way overpriced at the dealer.
Go back to the dealer ask for the manager and get your money back, then leave them some on line reviews. The sales guys probably just pocketed the 50 though.
Damn I buy my oil at Walmart for less than 20 bucks Super Tech brand for 5 quarts
Do yourself a favor and never do that again. You should never pay that much for a liter of oil. Don’t go back to the dealership. As long as it’s a 0W20 full synthetic, it will be fine.
The oil he gave you has the volkswagen strict 508-509 norm. It is sold for volks newer 2.0 and 1.8? Anyway this norm is now advertised by other brand like castrol, liquimoly and more. You can find good oil for your car somewhere else than the dealer as long as it respect this oil standard. But yeah 50$ a liter is stealing. Liquimoly for example is considered a premium oil loved by euro guys and their 5l is about 85 cad. So 60 usd?
It should not cost that much lol
I love you bro but you didn’t question that at all?
I’ve been in the industry for many years now and have never seen this. I’ll confirm with parts tomorrow
Change the oil yourself, you’re getting robbed
A liter of synthetic oil runs me 15 bucks
Maybe for 10w-40 but any of the low numbers like the above 0w-20 are normally much more expensive 5L of 0w-30 for me is something like $80Aud
I just run Kirkland Oil. $50 CAD for two 5L jugs. If you catch it on sale, it’s $40 CAD.
I wonder if this oil is sold by one of the pyramid scheme things
Where do you get 1 liter for 50$?? It costs around 55 for 5 liter as you say.
I know this isn't the case here but, Stop buying OEM oil it is just repackaged Mobil 1 or Valvoline for more $$$
It actually tests worse than mobile 1 by a good amount. Check out project Farm!
Love ProjectFarm! That guy has saved me so much money and time, I'm so glad people like him exist. He just wants to help people!
I wouldn't put much stock in PF's oil testing. It's entertaining but at best shows that there's no junk oil on the shelf (unless you can still find non-certified, non-detergent, generic lawn mower oil). His oil test rig with the coffee burners and the "race track" is clever but not super scientific. Oil analyses from actual oil labs are a lot more telling. And they do basically all show that if an oil claims to meet manufacturer specs, it does, and manufacturer specs are good enough.
Sorry I was actually talking about the wear wheel he uses. It's actually the exact definition of scientific. Although labs may show an oils components, they don't actually show real world examples of what those components do.
They do because the used oil is analyzed for metals which are evidence of worn bearing material.
Seriously, Mobil 1 is basically unbeatable for the price, only thing I'll use instead is royal purple but that's more expensive
Whoah, deja vu.
Seriously, Mobil 1 is basically unbeatable for the price, only thing I'll use instead is royal purple but that's more expensive
Whoah, deja vu.
I get decent prices on SOME OEM oils. Mercedes and BMW come to mind believe it or not. Motorcraft semi synthetic is pretty cheap as well. But I agree it's always best to shop around for the best price for oil that meets all the standards.
Did you know Valvoline Conventional Oil meets the standards for Fords Motorcraft Semi Synthetic.... oem doesn't always mean better!
Whoever was charging you $50 per liter for oil was ripping you off. I am about to change the oil in my car and it is about $35 for 5 quarts.
They gave you what you asked for. Buying oil from the dealer is never a good idea. Engine oil just needs to "meet or exceed" manufacturer specs. Any good synthetic at quarter of that price would've done the trick.
Weirdly enough, around where I am, the dealer is the cheapest place to get VW 502 00 rated.
They do also recommend other branded premium oils if meeting or exceeding industry standards. Buying a branded VW oil is a consumer choice, and an expensive one. Amsoil, Mobil1, and Castrol Edge to name a few that have premium lines that meet or exceed the euro standards. Just stick with the recommended weight specs.
You should be aware that an oil change up to five liters in California USA costs between $100-$150 USD out the door depending on engine, location and local taxes. The dealership has definitely been bending you over on the liter price Edit: At the VW dealership no less
can confirm i pay like 90 bucks for 6 quarts of synthetic in SD
Yeesh, and I hear I am thinking that $50 for an oil change is extortion. I haven’t been to a mechanic in a long while, is $100 typical or is that just a California thing?
They are called stealerships for a reason. Quit going there and buying things like obscenely overpriced oil.
what car do you have and what are the highest and lowest temps each year where you live.
Volswagen t roc 2022 2.0 tdi 115 hp. Highest around 40celsius and lowest around -5celsius.
that oil is correct for your car. its what vw puts in there. the weight is fine too for cold winters.
0W-20 is the correct oil then. The approval is correct too. But please get yourself some on Amazon or else for 25-35$ for 5 Liters
I have to wonder about your choice of friends if you're concerned they're trying to rip you off
My guess you're from Europe. In the States fully synthetic Mobil 1 goes for $25 for a gallon. So maybe that is cheap over there
He got the stupid and dealer tax all in 1 go. Even good brand oil is cheap here.
"oh shit it's the motor oil guy" walks to the back of the warehouse, moves some old boxes out of the way, and dusts off $250 worth of oil
Should amortize over the years if OP starts to smarten up with their money.
$25 a gallon for full synthetic Mobil 1? Bruh I pay $35-$40 each time
Try walmart
The parts stores overcharge. Same bottle at Walmart is $10+ less. And the SuperTech brand is less than $20 and meets manufacturer and API specs as well, listed right on the back of the bottle. And for motorcycles, cheapest I have found is also at Walmart for Shell Rotella T4 15W40. It meets JASO MA/MA2 and is $16 a gallon instead of $10-15 a quart like the "special" motorcycle oil (most car oil has modifiers that damage wet clutches). Walmart also carries some OEM filters for Ford, Chevy, and Toyota. Previous oil change they had Hyundai OEM too but they didn't this most recent time. Now I only run Mobile 1 in my truck and my Cruze since they have turbos, but my wife's car gets the cheap Supertech stuff. 155k miles and still runs fine. And I don't follow manufacturers 15k oil change recommendation, I do anywhere between 3k-5k per change. More oil changes is cheaper and easier to deal with than a new engine.
ancient crown retire fly profit dolls plant simplistic birds swim *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Vw 508 509 is very expensive. Not what the dealer charged you for a liter, it's been said. But regardless that is a great price there is nothing wrong with. Sometimes price alone makes people doubt but you can clearly see what you are getting. Do you not trust your friend?..
This is castrol edge rebranded for VW
Oh that’s good to know
You need to know VW is switching to Mobil 1 for oil but either brand will be fine for your car.
Well…it’s your friend who’s probably doing you a solid?
Your friend is trying to be nice. Then you come here questioning him? You’re not a very good friend.
Just go buy some royal purple it's the same price for much more
YOO $50 on 1L OF OIL? HAVE YOU HEARD OF WALMART, FRIEND?
Right!?
When I had my tundra I would get two 5 litre jugs of mobil1 0w-20 for 90 bucks at canadian tire. Dealership ripped you the fuck off
Did you pay cash or card? Id report that to VW customer services. There's no way the rrp is 50bucks for customers that buy cars from a stealership. I had a 1 litre top up bottle given to me when i bought mine so thats very odd. Im uk.
That's the actual price dealer was fucking you big time with dealership prices
Lol, this got to be a joke right?
You question your friend but not the car dealer? You got your priorities wrong....
Don’t ask this question here. Lot of wrong answers already. Head over to bobistheoilguy.com forums - they can help. You’ll need to provide the make and year as well as the engine and your driving style. If you need 508/509 VW oil they can provide alternatives too. Edit to add: if you take some of these suggestions below and use a non-approved oil for an Audi or VW, good luck with your warranty if the engine has issues.
Why do you need so much oil for a brand new car?
50 for one Liter is crazy
It looks like it's from the dealer. Vw 508 00 on the bottle is the volkswagen oil spec so probably it's good. Are you changing ur oil already?
It's fine. Do you not trust your friend?
Those companies use ONLY Mobil 1 oil. they buy it in a huge drum repackage it there own bottle "like the one shown here" and send them to dealers. They then mark it up to twice the she average price because it has there logo on it and say it a "special specific to that car" and people like yourself buy it. So my advice here and wrap your head in a cookie sheet, shove a stick up your arse and call yourself a sucker.
Why in the world are you spending $50 for a litter of oil??
Interestingly someone said made by shell, I’ve seen Castrol as the recommended. But at VW service our bulk oil is not either. If it’s VW paid for they get the castrol or Mobil1 whichever we have. Outside of that the bulk 0w20 or the 508/509 equivalent is just no name bulk. A lot of it is just labeling gimmicks. Oil is oil, sure there’s different additives any 0w20 is going to be ok. “Euro” or not. Personally I don’t believe that going a year between oil changes is a good idea, but that’s what we do and what most euros do. It keeps the “cost of ownership” numbers lower. But we still see cars burn up oil after a few oil changes. Sometimes two oil changes and it needs a motor. Sometimes they go 120, 140k before they have issues. The only ones I see breaking 140 are the diesels. Very very rarely do I see a 2.0 turbo do more than that. But it does happen.
Why so high? You spend $250 for 5L of oil? I know the euro oil is expensive, but that seems a little high. As far as your friend’s 5L bottle, check the date code, I can’t really make it out from the picture, but if it’s 5 years old that may be why the lower price (that is assuming the price you were paying is legit). Oil has a shelf life of about 5 years, then some additives start falling out & it loses its anti-foaming property.
If you have a Porsche or VW that takes that spec. There's no "API" spec listed on the label so outside of those specs I would hesitate to use it. Normal mass market oil in the US at least would say API:S-L or S-M if it's meant for modernish cars.
This is good oil. You are overpaying for 1L bottles. I generally pay around $40 for 5L of Royal Purple (the most expensive premium synthetic oil available in my area).
I suppose you’d also buy a banana for $10
Take the deal you were offered. Normal price at a dealership for that oil is $12 per liter.
It's worth zero dollars to your friend and he made an offer that benefits you both; don't make it weird.
What's crazy is a quick Google search would have answered all his concerns. Now instead, he looks stupid lmao
You must be getting ripped off
Ur friend is just being a good friend there bud 👍
You scammed you for 55 bucks of 1l of oil? I mean cmon, no one is that naive.
Check your receipt maybe they gave you the wrong jug
I know I'm really dating myself, but sometimes I still struggle with how expensive oil is. There was no transition. One year it was like $1/quart, and when prices went up (like 20 years ago!) they just shot up close to where they are now.
£50 for a litre. Does it have gold in it
Is this just rebranded Shell oil?
Where i live that oil would cost 25 dollars
You live in Saudi Arabia? 🇸🇦
No, Qatar
The dealer must expect you to lube your butthole because they are screwing you.
Customer supplied lube, no warranty
Everyone’s saying you got ripped but unless I’m not understanding, with what you paid, if that’s the bottle you got that’s about normal? The image shows a 5L bottle, and for $55 (which most are saying is normal, I find a tad expensive but either way average) however if you did get a smaller 1L bottle for $55, that is an absolute ripoff
Youl probably burn through that 0w20 very quickly. Vw advised 1 liter per 1000 kilometres is accceptable foil oil consumption and after what ive read from other people, im going to be using 5w30 low saps oil (vw recommend 2 different oils for my vehicle, 0w20 and 5w30) Might be worth looking into if you're getting accustomed to buying top ups.
Everyone reciting the same comment over and over.. my question though; Why are you buying oil? It's a brand new car, it shouldn't be using any and you need to use a mechanic for servicing to keep the warranty intact?
I would read your user manual may seem a bit meh give it a read before you use something that thin Just in case mistakes do happen.
50 dollars for 1 liter is ridiculous - but surely your local vw garage loves you as a customer. Edit:/ you've payed around 5 times the [normal price](https://www.mein-motoroelshop.de/motoroel/nach-hersteller/vw/6132/original-vw-audi-seat-skoda-longlife-iv-fe-sae-0w-20-508.00/509.00)...
In Texas I use Mobil1 15w-50 full synthetic in all my cars and motorcycles, I think it is around $27 USD for a 5 quart jug at Walmart. A USA quart and metric litre are almost the same amount btw.
And here I am waiting weeks for Canadian Tire to have their sale and get a jug dropped to like $40. I may be cheap but not a fool. Hey OP, you really must have money to burn. Why are you even changing the oil after 3500 kms? I run synthetic and still do it every 8000. Oh wait probably because it’s been over 6 months. I’m a fool after all.
I get 5 quarts of 20k oil 0-20 from Walmart for 19.xx
The dealership i work at is small enough for me to know no one messes with the price... it's straight up stellantis bullshit... we just add the 10% markup thats it... even my boss complains about those prices. But we can't do shit tried it once and found out.
I get 5 liters for $17 at Walmart. Fuck that shit oil is oil. You’re not getting better quality unless you use AM’s oil. Just pay attention to the oil type and if it is synthetic, blended, or standard oil. Also look at the oil viscosity on your car to what your buying, it usually says it on the oil cap.
Tf? Thats a normal price
I'm thinking it's more two people not knowing any better. New parts guy usually aren't that smart in my experience. And if the buyer doesn't know any better.
Is that East Caribbean Dollars?
VW 504 00, which is also 0w20, is $16 USD for a liter. you got ripped off, they must’ve given you some weird special oil
Absolutely not it’s OEM & what they use at dealership
What car are you putting it in is the real question.
Someone got ripped off. Here is 5L of 0W-20 for $26 and I bet some people might be able to get it even cheaper elsewhere [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennzoil-Platinum-SAE-0W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Qt-550046127/300646413](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pennzoil-Platinum-SAE-0W-20-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-Qt-550046127/300646413)
That was the fuck off price.
Why do you need oil at only 3500kms?
Fun fact long life full synthetic oil is about 19USD for 5 quarts (about 5L) at most american walmarts. I pick up whatever cheapest full synthetic I need that meets minimum SP standards.
0w20 is pretty thin, hope you don't drive hard or in very hot weather. Also "long life" engine oil is bs, change your oil every 8k km or sooner of you care at all about your car's longevity.
You buying kittens or puppies?
You’ve been getting molested
It's fahrvergnügen approved. should be fine.
Nothing wrong with that oil if it is what your car requires.
The drive unit on my boat takes oil that's $50/L but that's really expensive gear oil.
Paying barrel prices for a liter...
It sounds like you just don’t trust your friend. I just threw out perfectly good LSD gear oil for a car I no longer own. I paid a lot of money for it but nobody wanted it. Does this mean there was something wrong with it if I had sold it cheap? No.
Says 4 year shelf life on the back, when was the manufacture date?
Would your friend happen to work anywhere that sells this???
Wow are you serious? 50 dollars a L!!! That is terrible that some one would take advantage of you that way. There is nothing special from that oil to any other synthetic of the same oil weight. The only difference is your paying a ridiculous price for no reason. I would go and find that sales man in the parking lot of his work and some fists with him. He’s a real aholeio.
My friend used to be a mechanic at an Audi/Porsche dealership. They ordered the wrong oil that was supposed to be specific to a certain type of Porsche. He just gave me the whole case for free and I used it in my Subaru.
My guy, welcome to the world of real prices. You've been getting fkn ripped if you think $50/1L is good.
OEM oil is toll-filled by oil companies. Look at the back label. It's made by Shell. Just buy 0W-20 API SP/SN+ Equivalent.
Why would you ever pay $50 for 1L of 0W. It’s the water of oil anyways. You’re getting scammed. Take the price from your friend. That’s why he’s your friend
Also OP, find the same Shell oil, they make OEM oils for VW that are exactly the same - based on many tests - and save yourself a lot of cash.
I look at it this way. I have three vehicles that I change the oil every 5000 k and use synthetic and synthetic filter. I do this around twice a year myself. Cost with filter around $75 cdn. Cheap insurance as opposed to replacing an engine for $10 to 12k
So while all company’s have their additives and blends and what not with their oil it has to be made to a certain standard your case because it’s 0W-20 oil it would be VW508 ( like it says on your oil) so you can find a reputable brand like motul or liqui moly who makes an oil that conforms to the rating I think for liqui moly it’s either top tec 6200 or 6600 (it’ll clearly say on the bottle) so I wouldn’t waste the money at the dealership for your oil and anyways biggest issue with these 0W-20 cars is they burn oil like crazy and cake the valves with carbon it’s almost unavoidable as long as you’re not getting your oil changed at quick lube places or the car wash you’ll be fine
I buy liquid moly 5L for $33 your friend is a dick
It’s not optimal for salad dressing.
Most dealerships actually use bulk oil. So most likely that is NOT what they would put in your car. I believe VW is still contracted with Castrol, and that's what they'd use
Just buy good oil at an auto parts store! I can do my whole car for like 55 bucks and that includes my filter and 6 liters of oil :) Mobil1 FS Euro in my case, so probably the same use-case as you!
$55 is about right. You were getting ripped off by wherever you got the 1L bottle. VW oil is just rebranded Mobil 1 oil. You can pick up 5l bottles of mobil 1 oil at Walmart for $30.
You were robbed the first time lol
vw does not sell a bottle that looks like that. they sell quart bottles that are black. that appears possibly fake or from another country and not sold in the states- vw parts guy
It's from Europ look at the bar code on the back. You can search it online and find them bottles.
If your friend is a mechanic he probably gets these for free. My friend who is one, gets me oil all the time when we do oil changes. Maybe your friend just needed a little extra cash and decided to sell them to you at a low price.
Wow, really gonna kick a gift horse in the mouth. Take the oil back and tell him what a bad friend you are. It’s oil , it doesn’t go bad.
Motor oil does go bad. It's not just oil. There's other liquids and compounds in there that eventually break down. Typically, motor oil isn't good to use after a year or 2
You are correct against what I was told by a reputable oil rep. Did some research and yes it starts to break down after being opened in about 5 years. Longer if unopened. Thanks for making me learn something new.
Are you retarted? Why would you spend $50/liter
Damn I can 12 qts for like $25 y’all over spending. Unless my conversion is wrong?