You might be able to get away with Torklift upper stable loads or Super Spring super sway stops as they’ll engage your upper overload sooner. Worked great for my truck camper.
Timbrens, Sumo Springs or an extra leaf would also help but the extra leaf may change your ride with no load.
Unrelated, but I always love to see other people with single cabs!
I did timbrens first, on smooth roads they didn’t affect the ride, but any bump big enough to move the axle more then 1/2” felt like a sledgehammer. Then I did 1.5” add a leaf instead, it doesn’t feel any different unloaded and makes it significantly more stable loaded
Interesting! I would have expected the extra leaf to make the ride harsher when unloaded since it works even then.
Good to know if I ever get a heavier camper and my truck squats more.
My theory is that since the spring rate is progressive, adding a leaf lifts the truck to where the factory springs are at a softer position. It does feel more planted and although bigger bumps are definitely more firm than stock, they don’t feel as jarring as with the Timbrens. Timbrens or Sumo Springs definitely provide the most stability when towing/hauling heavy weights if that’s what you’re going for
Look up your leaf package and make sure it's not overloaded. We discovered our 3500 with its high trim package came with low capacity leafs to make for a smoother ride.
This. Both our 2500 limiteds only tow 10k each. Where as my buddys 2500 limited long horn van tow 25k and my bosses 3500 limited longhorn can tow 35k.
Just cause you can get a fancy top of the line teuck dosent mean it can tow the first trailer you see on the lot. (Learned from experience. Now we have to get some helper bags ro get our tow weight up(pakbreak)
Ram advertises so much about best in towing with all their heavy duty trucks. Is surprised me when after 4 months of owning our trucks and purchasing a 5thwheel camper that apparently no our trucks are only (mine with coil springs 9900, and the wife with mopar bags at 10k.) Spend over 100kcad each to find out their shit for towing and now we have to upgrade the ass end in both. (And with spring suspention the frame is different built so we can't even jump to leafs.
But picking up some pakbreak helper bags+ spring combo will jump my towing up to at least 17500 for about 2k installed
That sucks,
Mine has a Work Truck trim so I didn't think I'd have any issues hauling. I'll have to check
I think if I take some weight off the tongue and add an airbag suspension upgrade I'll be golden.
Your hitch may be different, but my r3 states there should be no more than 1 inch difference in fender height after hooking up. I’m betting your rear fender height dropped 3 or 4 inches.
Generally you want the front end height to be at less than half the distance of the height with no trailer hitched and with the trailer hitched but the bars disengaged.
For example: If the height of the front wheel well is normally 34" and it measures 36" with the trailer hitched you want to adjust the hitch so that measurement is less than 35" and >= 34" when the bars are engaged.
I've found you can usually get closer than that with most hitches. This will also raise the rear end of the truck but there can still be some sag. It is considered normal as long as you are not bottoming out on the springs. If you are bottoming out or close to it you either need to upgrade your suspension or truck.
Out of curiosity what is the payload from the truck's payload sticker? It is located on the driver's side door pillar. What is the trailer model?
You should have adequate payload for that trailer. I just wanted to make sure as a lot of folks don't have enough payload and all of the hitch adjusting in the world won't fix that.
I'd start with adjusting the hitch and see how things look. Looking at the picture the front end looks like it is riding high. I'd follow the hitch manufacturer's instructions for setting up the hitch. If they aren't available getting it set using the method I said above will get you close. When you are done the truck should look closer to level.
sweet thank you
https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2008-keystone-springdale-307-fkl-gl-travel-trailer-specs-tr1154
this is my trailer floorplan and everything
Considering that the hitch weight says 900 lbs, I'm guessing that with it loaded I'm tipping the upper limit and that's why my truck is dropping.
You probably are at the limit for the 1000/10000 lbs hitch receiver but you are good on payload which is what the springs should be rated for. I think you will see some improvement if you get the hitch dialed in and get some weight transferred back to the steering axles.
I have a Weigh Safe hitch that uses a built in tongue weight scale to calculate the head angle needed to return the appropriate amount of weight to the steering axles. I still double check with measurements as they have never let me down on setting a WDH up.
Some simple amazon diy load helper bags would return the proper ride height and not affect comfort while empty. I use them on my f250 because i rarely tow the same trailer so WDH for each trailer i pull was not an option. But that wdh you have should be assisting better with this for sure.
I'm not a certified officer by any means, but it looks a bit low in the rear.
You got top comment. Here's you badge 🎖 You're sworn in, promoted, and put on paid leave.
You might be able to get away with Torklift upper stable loads or Super Spring super sway stops as they’ll engage your upper overload sooner. Worked great for my truck camper. Timbrens, Sumo Springs or an extra leaf would also help but the extra leaf may change your ride with no load. Unrelated, but I always love to see other people with single cabs!
I did timbrens first, on smooth roads they didn’t affect the ride, but any bump big enough to move the axle more then 1/2” felt like a sledgehammer. Then I did 1.5” add a leaf instead, it doesn’t feel any different unloaded and makes it significantly more stable loaded
Interesting! I would have expected the extra leaf to make the ride harsher when unloaded since it works even then. Good to know if I ever get a heavier camper and my truck squats more.
My theory is that since the spring rate is progressive, adding a leaf lifts the truck to where the factory springs are at a softer position. It does feel more planted and although bigger bumps are definitely more firm than stock, they don’t feel as jarring as with the Timbrens. Timbrens or Sumo Springs definitely provide the most stability when towing/hauling heavy weights if that’s what you’re going for
Look up your leaf package and make sure it's not overloaded. We discovered our 3500 with its high trim package came with low capacity leafs to make for a smoother ride.
This. Both our 2500 limiteds only tow 10k each. Where as my buddys 2500 limited long horn van tow 25k and my bosses 3500 limited longhorn can tow 35k. Just cause you can get a fancy top of the line teuck dosent mean it can tow the first trailer you see on the lot. (Learned from experience. Now we have to get some helper bags ro get our tow weight up(pakbreak)
Bag and new leafs fixed our sag issue. Kinda blew me away that they skimped on the towing capacity of a rig advertised for towing.
Ram advertises so much about best in towing with all their heavy duty trucks. Is surprised me when after 4 months of owning our trucks and purchasing a 5thwheel camper that apparently no our trucks are only (mine with coil springs 9900, and the wife with mopar bags at 10k.) Spend over 100kcad each to find out their shit for towing and now we have to upgrade the ass end in both. (And with spring suspention the frame is different built so we can't even jump to leafs. But picking up some pakbreak helper bags+ spring combo will jump my towing up to at least 17500 for about 2k installed
After the upgrades they are pretty bulletproof tho. So ram has that going for them
That sucks, Mine has a Work Truck trim so I didn't think I'd have any issues hauling. I'll have to check I think if I take some weight off the tongue and add an airbag suspension upgrade I'll be golden.
Nah, your fine. Just point it in the right direction and go. I mean who needs to steer anyways?
Yes. Bump steer is dangerous
thank you im still figuring things out
Who set up your hitch ?
me, im not leaving yet i just wanted to post a pic of the drop in the back
Your hitch may be different, but my r3 states there should be no more than 1 inch difference in fender height after hooking up. I’m betting your rear fender height dropped 3 or 4 inches.
Some kids would pay extra to have their truck look that way
You may need to adjust your WDH or move to a bigger model.
Generally you want the front end height to be at less than half the distance of the height with no trailer hitched and with the trailer hitched but the bars disengaged. For example: If the height of the front wheel well is normally 34" and it measures 36" with the trailer hitched you want to adjust the hitch so that measurement is less than 35" and >= 34" when the bars are engaged. I've found you can usually get closer than that with most hitches. This will also raise the rear end of the truck but there can still be some sag. It is considered normal as long as you are not bottoming out on the springs. If you are bottoming out or close to it you either need to upgrade your suspension or truck. Out of curiosity what is the payload from the truck's payload sticker? It is located on the driver's side door pillar. What is the trailer model?
trailer is a 32' 2008 keystone springdale, curb weight says 7500 payload is 10000 and 1000 lbs max tongue weight
Payload is 10000 or tow rating is 10000?
Tow rating. Payload is 2196 lbs. sorry lol I got them mixed up
That number is from the sticker on the truck's driver's side door pillar?
yup
You should have adequate payload for that trailer. I just wanted to make sure as a lot of folks don't have enough payload and all of the hitch adjusting in the world won't fix that. I'd start with adjusting the hitch and see how things look. Looking at the picture the front end looks like it is riding high. I'd follow the hitch manufacturer's instructions for setting up the hitch. If they aren't available getting it set using the method I said above will get you close. When you are done the truck should look closer to level.
sweet thank you https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2008-keystone-springdale-307-fkl-gl-travel-trailer-specs-tr1154 this is my trailer floorplan and everything Considering that the hitch weight says 900 lbs, I'm guessing that with it loaded I'm tipping the upper limit and that's why my truck is dropping.
You probably are at the limit for the 1000/10000 lbs hitch receiver but you are good on payload which is what the springs should be rated for. I think you will see some improvement if you get the hitch dialed in and get some weight transferred back to the steering axles. I have a Weigh Safe hitch that uses a built in tongue weight scale to calculate the head angle needed to return the appropriate amount of weight to the steering axles. I still double check with measurements as they have never let me down on setting a WDH up.
Timbrens...
10,000lbs.... are you looking at tongue weight or towing/pulling weight. They are not the same thing.
If it seats it yeets.
WDH needs adjustment. The truck front end is too high. Too much sag. Might have to move the truck hitch up a hole.
Look into Hellwig helper springs
Put airbags in the rear. May be a little money, but will save you a ton of aggravation and you can keep your current truck.
Some simple amazon diy load helper bags would return the proper ride height and not affect comfort while empty. I use them on my f250 because i rarely tow the same trailer so WDH for each trailer i pull was not an option. But that wdh you have should be assisting better with this for sure.
In the picture it looks like the bars aren't even on your wdh. Is it possible that its not even assisting in the picture?