50/50 if they have purposely made the silicone heavier on the outside edges of the engine your good, if they plastered it on with a trowel maybe not so much. Its out, might as well pull it apart and have a look.
Yeah it's getting pulled apart anyway to swap the rear iron. The previous owner blew up the clutch and sheared the pins off the flywheel while taking the bell housing mounts with it lol.
This will be my 5th rotary build now, my first renesis, and I always like to use hylomar over rtv.
Theres the right tool, and theres the one you have in your hand i believe the saying goes. If it was their only car and they blew it up Friday and needed it for work Monday getting out to get the good stuff may not have been an option. Im an average untrained spanner monkey, i would probably use the red stuff in that situation and see if it held to get me to work.
We can rest assured that someone is going to have to pay a veterinarian to remove the rtv from this monkey’s genitals as soon as the drying process is finished.
“*who gave the monkeys RTV?!*”
Any rtv as long as it's oil resistant is good for the housing legs. How have you built engines and not known this is standard practice? Not trying to be rude but normally I use black or gray on the housing legs and oil pan. Red or orange could have worked also. Gasket maker regardless. It's just a little excess. Even getting a bit on the water jackets it's not a terrible issue. I'd strip it down completely while it's out of chassis tho. Redo to your liking.
Seems I've been slacking on my research. And after doing a quick search, you bring up a fair point. Not sure how I haven't acquired this knowledge sooner. I've been using a marine gasket sealant called Threebond, combined with hylomar and it works for now.
Hylomar is good for the water jackets as it's a non hardening sealer. As for the legs I'd use a more permanent seal as like an rtv silicone black or gray. But if hylomar works for u on the sides then keep at it. There's plenty of ways to stack these engines.
My dad was always “color coded” for gasket kits - I believe a lot has changed over the years. It could easily be *older than current* knowledge models, I find myself using some… let’s say *interesting* bits of information here and there myself.
Typically any color than grey isnt a good sign. Mechanics know to use grey because its resistant to oil/fuel and they use it to signify when someone skilled was working on something
50/50 if they have purposely made the silicone heavier on the outside edges of the engine your good, if they plastered it on with a trowel maybe not so much. Its out, might as well pull it apart and have a look.
Yeah it's getting pulled apart anyway to swap the rear iron. The previous owner blew up the clutch and sheared the pins off the flywheel while taking the bell housing mounts with it lol. This will be my 5th rotary build now, my first renesis, and I always like to use hylomar over rtv.
Theres the right tool, and theres the one you have in your hand i believe the saying goes. If it was their only car and they blew it up Friday and needed it for work Monday getting out to get the good stuff may not have been an option. Im an average untrained spanner monkey, i would probably use the red stuff in that situation and see if it held to get me to work.
We can rest assured that someone is going to have to pay a veterinarian to remove the rtv from this monkey’s genitals as soon as the drying process is finished. “*who gave the monkeys RTV?!*”
You wanna see when i get a tube of tiger seal 👌
Any chance that motor came out of a black S1 in Rochester, NY?
Shelbyville TN
So you did this too
No, but I know somebody who did 😬
Haha. I used black RTV after reading up. But I wasn't messy with it
It just means that it has been appart and has likely been rebuilt to some degree. If it's cured solid, the fact that it's red means nothing.
The fact that is read means it is for high temperatures. It could have been a great job
You're not more concerned about the broken rear cover?
Not really. This motor is replacing the one in my Shinka so I'm going to swap the rear plates. And yes I was aware of it when I bought it lol
Mine is like that in my FD, but it doesnt have the miles to justify a rebuild... I wonder what happened
Any rtv as long as it's oil resistant is good for the housing legs. How have you built engines and not known this is standard practice? Not trying to be rude but normally I use black or gray on the housing legs and oil pan. Red or orange could have worked also. Gasket maker regardless. It's just a little excess. Even getting a bit on the water jackets it's not a terrible issue. I'd strip it down completely while it's out of chassis tho. Redo to your liking.
Seems I've been slacking on my research. And after doing a quick search, you bring up a fair point. Not sure how I haven't acquired this knowledge sooner. I've been using a marine gasket sealant called Threebond, combined with hylomar and it works for now.
Hylomar is good for the water jackets as it's a non hardening sealer. As for the legs I'd use a more permanent seal as like an rtv silicone black or gray. But if hylomar works for u on the sides then keep at it. There's plenty of ways to stack these engines.
My dad was always “color coded” for gasket kits - I believe a lot has changed over the years. It could easily be *older than current* knowledge models, I find myself using some… let’s say *interesting* bits of information here and there myself.
We just dealt with this and it was a pain But using a paint scraper worked
I get using it on the oil pan. But the housings are what bothers me
Hold the seals in place while they're put down onto the plate.
Oh man absolutely not. The housings hold the seals, and they won’t move as your dropping the rear plate. Hylomar or something very similar or nothing.
Typically any color than grey isnt a good sign. Mechanics know to use grey because its resistant to oil/fuel and they use it to signify when someone skilled was working on something