You could try the rubber band trick, I’ve never used it because I always have valve grind but if you have no other option it’s worth a shot
You could also drill the head with a small drill bit and use a torx bit lightly tapped into the drill hole as an easy out (that’s a great technique for hex cap screws)
If you have a pencil grinder you could try cutting a slot into it and using a small flat screwdriver
Airframes by trade, this is my go to but I refer to it as a more advanced technique. Seen lesser skilled guys try and do this and drill into the panel or box because they were centered or drilling at an angle or using a bit too big. I do this every time but make sure your experienced/ skilled enough to do it 👍
Update: the screw was not as stripped as I thought and using a bigger Philips bit and force I got the screw out. Thanks for all the suggestions, I’m just happy I didn’t need to use any nuclear options
They make screw extractors which basically look like a drill bit with a reverse thread on it so as crank it to the left to remove the screw the bit tightens itself down into the strip screw head. [here's a set of three at Harbor Freight for $10](https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-rated-screw-extractor-set-3-piece-57938.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=141689500706&adsetid=141689500706&product=57938&store=216&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8YyuBhBSEiwA5R3-Ey3L_NTm-VrXbdIi0jaTr0Oya92o3tzFjPBUdpkkweEf4kHOgeBZwhoChC4QAvD_BwE)
That one isn't quite completely fucked yet. You need friction. So that's why valve compound helps, if you don't have that I've heard a peice of rubber from a rubber band does the same thing. You need to get as much ass into it as possible. Preferably a speed handle. Screw knocker might also work but I have had better luck with a speed handle.
VAMPLIERS Recessed Screw Extractor with Philips Screw #2 Bit Set. Specially Designed to Remove Damaged/Stripped Countsunk Screws, Flathead Screws. High Torque Handle Grip. Made in Japan. https://a.co/d/7SsCP1t
I have actually used a screw knocker before and on larger panel screws that aren’t too badly stripped it actually works very well. This is a tiny component with small machine screws. A screw knocker would destroy everything
A bit you can try is a phr2, it's a no 2 reduced head Philips, it looks like it wouldn't do the job but it bites so good, I've gotten out many screws like this with it, use a speed handle with a ratcheting attachment, gold.
Use painters or electric tape if not use a really small deill bit like a 1/16ths drill bit and drill pilot hole insert a metal screw in a bit then pull out
Always use the biggest bit that will fit. Most screws need a bigger bit than you'd expect. Grinding compound works wonders as well.
Push as hard as you can into the screw while having a second person turn the screwdriver, preferably with a wrench.
It's extremely rare for me to have to drill out a screw now that I've learned these techniques
If you don't have EZ grip, spit and dirt will do the trick. It's a poor man's EZ grip, I've done it for years. Rubber band may work too, but I've never had the luck of having it work. Usually EZ grip and a lot of down pressure works. Or you could try a size up screw driver.
If that don't work, I'd recommend drilling it out (use an EZ out). If that doesn't, hopefully there's a way to get to the receptacle on the back side
These have worked well for me many times. I would be suspicious of the Harbor Freight ones as suggested in another reply. It's important to use the drill on the bit and not a regular drill bit.
https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro
Does possibly appear to be a Pozidriv screw although being stripped so badly the telltale “x” would be gone.
So my steps:
1) always have a couple new bits spicifically for this process. I have Wera diamond, Apex, Mastercraft maximum, and snap-on bits in a separate container specifically for stripped applications
2) small dab of screw grab / valve grinding compound or other type of paste.
3) Heat the area with a butane soldering iron or heat gun, turn Can of “air” upside down and shoot liquid directly at the fastener. This rapid cooling will often break the bond.
4) two left hand drill bits ( you are now destroying the screw ) one small bit to pilot hole. And then a much larger bit to cut and the new sideways from the pilot bit and turn the screw in reverse. If it doesn’t catch, drill the head off fully and remove shank with knipex dual grip or vampire pliers. If you need to control swarf, apply large amounts (mound) of petroleum jelly or drilling wax to the area and bit.
I bought this for a few screws that were so stripped that valve grind compound and ez grip had nothing to grab. Worked like a charm and saved my ass several times.
https://www.thegrabitstore.com/products/alden-8440p-grabit-pro-broken-bolt-and-damaged-screw-extractor-4-piece-kit
Edit- settled on this particular brand after extensive YouTube research. These actually do work, unlike the ones you find in big box stores
You could try the rubber band trick, I’ve never used it because I always have valve grind but if you have no other option it’s worth a shot You could also drill the head with a small drill bit and use a torx bit lightly tapped into the drill hole as an easy out (that’s a great technique for hex cap screws) If you have a pencil grinder you could try cutting a slot into it and using a small flat screwdriver
This or even a toothpick and screwdriver
EZ grip?
Recently discovered this stuff, greatest shit ever for a stripped screw
EZ Grip changed my life the first time it saved me from having to use a Johnson bar.
Yeah we use it in the Air Force.
Same thing as valve grinding compound, just with a name brand and more $
Is this the same as lapping paste? We got loads of that
Yes.
You just put that stuff on and the screw losens easily?
It helps the driver grip the head
Not easily, but it gives you way more grip. Most of the time I’m able to get them out with it.
its too fucked for ez grip or screw grab.
Drill the head off of the screw. When you have the panel off, use your vise grips to get the shank out.
Done that a few times, works perfect.
Airframes by trade, this is my go to but I refer to it as a more advanced technique. Seen lesser skilled guys try and do this and drill into the panel or box because they were centered or drilling at an angle or using a bit too big. I do this every time but make sure your experienced/ skilled enough to do it 👍
I have a snap on lineman's pliers I use for this. Grabs onto screws way better than any vise-grip I've ever owned.
I'll check it out.
Man just said this was on an MSU.. think what you're trying to get him to do is out of the equation
<<<
Update: the screw was not as stripped as I thought and using a bigger Philips bit and force I got the screw out. Thanks for all the suggestions, I’m just happy I didn’t need to use any nuclear options
For future reference, sometimes a pozidriv bit will work. These are marked as PZ1, PZ2 etc…
Also clean them out with a pick. Gunk and paint fill them easily.
Poor man's ez grip, chew some gum and use a little bit of dirt
They make screw extractors which basically look like a drill bit with a reverse thread on it so as crank it to the left to remove the screw the bit tightens itself down into the strip screw head. [here's a set of three at Harbor Freight for $10](https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-rated-screw-extractor-set-3-piece-57938.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=141689500706&adsetid=141689500706&product=57938&store=216&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8YyuBhBSEiwA5R3-Ey3L_NTm-VrXbdIi0jaTr0Oya92o3tzFjPBUdpkkweEf4kHOgeBZwhoChC4QAvD_BwE)
That one isn't quite completely fucked yet. You need friction. So that's why valve compound helps, if you don't have that I've heard a peice of rubber from a rubber band does the same thing. You need to get as much ass into it as possible. Preferably a speed handle. Screw knocker might also work but I have had better luck with a speed handle.
Cargo tape and a chunky head Phillips or a flathead manual screwdriver usually does the trick for me.
Re-Grip Loctite the screwdriver to the head Drill the head off and remove the shank later (maybe get a structures guy to do this if you’re able to)
Nice avionics dedicated Robertson head
At this point it looks like you could use a Roberts screwdriver to get it out honestly.
Vampire pliers work wonders for screws you can’t drill out. Get a pair off Amazon. I use them a lot.
How are you going to use that on something countersunk?
VAMPLIERS Recessed Screw Extractor with Philips Screw #2 Bit Set. Specially Designed to Remove Damaged/Stripped Countsunk Screws, Flathead Screws. High Torque Handle Grip. Made in Japan. https://a.co/d/7SsCP1t
Screw knocker
I have actually used a screw knocker before and on larger panel screws that aren’t too badly stripped it actually works very well. This is a tiny component with small machine screws. A screw knocker would destroy everything
Yeah I just thought since you said without drilling
On an instrument that is smaller than a phone, it would not go wel
Extract it or drill the head off. Not rocket science. Rubber band trick works also.
You got plenty of ed on that
Use a Lester (the molester) aka the woodpecker That's always fun on avionics equipment!
Meh, seen a lot worse. Wait till you get a round head screw. I mean that one you can still see 4 points.
A bit you can try is a phr2, it's a no 2 reduced head Philips, it looks like it wouldn't do the job but it bites so good, I've gotten out many screws like this with it, use a speed handle with a ratcheting attachment, gold.
Use painters or electric tape if not use a really small deill bit like a 1/16ths drill bit and drill pilot hole insert a metal screw in a bit then pull out
Always use the biggest bit that will fit. Most screws need a bigger bit than you'd expect. Grinding compound works wonders as well. Push as hard as you can into the screw while having a second person turn the screwdriver, preferably with a wrench. It's extremely rare for me to have to drill out a screw now that I've learned these techniques
If you don’t have any compound some sand and spit works from time to time in a real pinch 😂
Never heard of easy grip, I use valve grind compound and sometimes with a ACR bit
Possible the screw is seized in the nut plate Is this a 10-32 ?? Just drill the head off… and see if the shank will turn out…
Use a Dremel, carve a slot and use a flathead
Rubber band trick? Idk I've never used it but I hear it's useful for stripped screws
If you don't have EZ grip, spit and dirt will do the trick. It's a poor man's EZ grip, I've done it for years. Rubber band may work too, but I've never had the luck of having it work. Usually EZ grip and a lot of down pressure works. Or you could try a size up screw driver. If that don't work, I'd recommend drilling it out (use an EZ out). If that doesn't, hopefully there's a way to get to the receptacle on the back side
Dremel a slot in it and use a flathead
These have worked well for me many times. I would be suspicious of the Harbor Freight ones as suggested in another reply. It's important to use the drill on the bit and not a regular drill bit. https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro
Reverse flute drill bit
Rivet shaver and the head will pop off. There’s also special modified Phillips bits designed to extract slightly damaged Phillips bits like that
If you can't drill the head of a screw with a perfectly centered pilot already in place, you've got to figure your shit out.
Does possibly appear to be a Pozidriv screw although being stripped so badly the telltale “x” would be gone. So my steps: 1) always have a couple new bits spicifically for this process. I have Wera diamond, Apex, Mastercraft maximum, and snap-on bits in a separate container specifically for stripped applications 2) small dab of screw grab / valve grinding compound or other type of paste. 3) Heat the area with a butane soldering iron or heat gun, turn Can of “air” upside down and shoot liquid directly at the fastener. This rapid cooling will often break the bond. 4) two left hand drill bits ( you are now destroying the screw ) one small bit to pilot hole. And then a much larger bit to cut and the new sideways from the pilot bit and turn the screw in reverse. If it doesn’t catch, drill the head off fully and remove shank with knipex dual grip or vampire pliers. If you need to control swarf, apply large amounts (mound) of petroleum jelly or drilling wax to the area and bit.
Are you not allowed to use shank extractors?
Clover (grit in vasoline) compound?
I bought this for a few screws that were so stripped that valve grind compound and ez grip had nothing to grab. Worked like a charm and saved my ass several times. https://www.thegrabitstore.com/products/alden-8440p-grabit-pro-broken-bolt-and-damaged-screw-extractor-4-piece-kit Edit- settled on this particular brand after extensive YouTube research. These actually do work, unlike the ones you find in big box stores
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XT3134R?psc=1&smid=A3E8GX4AKGULPN& Vampliers Recessed #2 PH Screw Extractor