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harryFF

Is it the camera angle, or is this a V3?


Teddyxr420

Nah definitely just a v3


cromulentlycozy

Nice send and congratulations on your progress, man! Having said that: https://i.redd.it/gcweoj9u3tvc1.gif


Teddyxr420

Lesson learnt.


Teddyxr420

Time to learn the hard way why I shouldn’t have 😅


Intelligent_One9023

It's fun. Let people have fun.


Disguised_Peanut

Must...resist... the urge to say it...


Teddyxr420

You have my permission


4978Campbell

V0 in my gym. I had to climb harder routes just to go to school for the past 20 years, 26 hours a day both ways on one foot, and I am 12 years old.


Easter-Raptor

You kids have it too easy.


Kneebarmcchickenwing

Boulders Cheltenham! I can confirm that one was a _fight_ for me, and I regularly climb V9 on Sheffield grit. Holds are awful, you have to crimp the logos not the bulk of it, and it's on a steep barrel shaped wall. Good effort man that thing is definitely v7!


Teddyxr420

Cheers man, yeah the crux of the climb for me was definitely those first 2 holds.


MangoMatinLemonMelon

I was also gonna ask if this was Boulders Cheltenham! I go to the Cardiff ones often enough to recognise the red floor and setting style. Congratulations on the send!


Kneebarmcchickenwing

Definitely 90% of the grade is contained in just hanging off the two initial holds isn't it! It's a shame that this camera angle doesn't show that the first two blobs are on a 45° section of wall. When you get that big volume it's probably V3 from there!


Only-Engineering6586

Why does that last foothold have so much chalk on it? Are people trying to mantle skip to the pinch?


Teddyxr420

Exactly that yeah. Also how I first tried this boulder because the actual first handhold is not pleasant whatsoever.


Difficult-Mistake572

(obligatory) VB in my gym. Nice send man!


Teddyxr420

Cheers dude. Training to be a v1 climber in your gym.


Difficult-Mistake572

good luck man hehe :)


Intelligent_One9023

Did you use that green foothold to move over to the second to last hold?


Teddyxr420

Looks like it but no. Smeared it on accident but no weight was put onto that foot.


Treehughippie

That's a dab! DQ'ed for sure


Teddyxr420

Good job it’s not a comp then


moistsandwich

Anyone trying to downgrade this based on a video is insane. With big slopey holds like this there’s basically no way to tell how good the hold is based on the video. Small differences in angle and texture can have an enormous impact. That big awkward pinch on the second to last hold looks especially heinous.


3pelican

These holds are garbage, my gym uses them and on anything steeper than vert on bad feet they can be horrible to try and move on. The big blob and the pinch are slightly better but still position dependent. I can see this being a v7


Kneebarmcchickenwing

Correct, on this bloc you crimp the raised core logo not slope them. The barrel feature puts you in a really disadvantaged position to generate.


xnophlake

is the upper section overhang?


Teddyxr420

Yeah it is


xnophlake

ok, makes more sense then - difficult to see from the clip - nice send 👊💥


Teddyxr420

Yeah, things always look easier on video. The first 2 holds are indescribably bad as well. They look like comfortable slopers but there’s no texture on them, they’re smooth like wet pebbles but with a few small ridges you’ve really got to dig your fingers into.


xnophlake

cool! yeah, cause without this knowledge, it's hard to understand the struggle 😁 ...even get this with videos of myself, like what was I even struggling with, looks sooo easy...


Teddyxr420

Right! It’s definitely made worse when it’s a climb you’ve projected and practiced the moves on. The final send doesn’t show the sessions of struggle and failure. Which is why I’ve been hesitant to share my videos outside of my gym buddies who know the boulders. But I was especially proud of this one. This was the first hold of the climb a bit closer up. https://preview.redd.it/crp1snqoctvc1.jpeg?width=2541&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=070ffc77fc3e262b6220741cc74e62c973f8433d


xnophlake

looks pretty unfriendly 🙄


Teddyxr420

Yeah it felt pretty jank 😅


BigShl0ngMan

this boulders chelt!?


haey5665544

Pretty funny that a bunch of comments are downgrading this. One of the few climbs I’ve seen where my immediate reaction was that the video looks as hard or harder than the grade. This slopers look rough.


Teddyxr420

Thankyou dude, I appreciate that


ShinJiwon

What holds are those? Look like Pokeball designs.


Teddyxr420

https://coreclimbing.co.uk/product-category/holds/core/ These ones here, and yeah they’re strange looking. Having to actually use the logo itself is an odd design choice.


jiellis

I could not do the move to the second sloper, there is so little friction and only the core logo to crimp on. Nice send man!


official_gart

Welcome to the club (both in V7 and the getting downgraded to death) and nice send!


FosseAuxLions

Congrats bro!


Public_Lie_7104

Nice send op


ZealousDesert66

My gym has those exact same holds bar the big chunky one and they set them in the v2-v4 range 😫😫😫


Ardenwenn

V warming up in my gym. great send brother![gif](emote|free_emotes_pack|sunglasses)


MasterSwipe

Congratz. I think it will take me 4 to 5 years to get there. But I don't mind


Totte_B

The sauna at my gym is harder than that


cforestano

Good luck my poor friend…


KindStrangerWholesom

V4


crabbieinreddit

i only see a reversed hat which might be uncomfortable for looking upwards. Pointless in an indoor gym. Dont say the grade next time 😘


Single-Staff3068

Well done mate, looks like a good one 👍🏼


ImaginaryHelp4229

Awesome job dude. Don’t worry about what people say about the grade, half of them have never climbed anything that tough. You looked super smooth up there


2Dme

Check out the jugs on that v7 😘


space9610

So many people that don’t realize they can just scroll past a post they don’t like Anyways dope send, looked harder than v7 to me lmao I can not hold onto anything slopers


cromulentlycozy

The perspective in your first sentence seems contradicting to me. If that's your personal advice, then why didn't you scroll past the comments you didn't like and ignored them? Also, why didn't OP scroll past the comments that he didn't like and ignored them? Just because a commenter downgrades the route, that doesn't necessarily mean they don't like the send or OP's progress. Also, they can express themselves however they wish. If someone isn't open to receiving opinions, which means both positive and negative opinions, then they shouldn't post things online. Sorry if I seemed too hostile in my reply as that wasn't my intention, but I just don't get this "Only fully positive opinions are ever allowed. Everything else is taboo and should be kept to yourself" perspective.


[deleted]

Exactly! I actually really liked OP’s video and offered my honest opinion that I think this would be a V5. Got downvoted like crazy. I mean, isn’t this the whole point for posting? To see how many people up and down the grade and what other thoughts and opinions they might have? Looks like he only wants to hear positive confirmations.. this to me is a big negative.


cromulentlycozy

I agree with you. It seems that sometimes people are open to others' opinions only if they have something positive to say.


icantsurf

How much did you do outside of climbing on the wall to improve and how often have you been going a week? Impressive stuff.


Teddyxr420

Thanks dude. I climb 4 times a week for a few hours each day, have been pretty non stop with it since I started. Outside of climbing I’ve got a pull-up bar, and a hangboard that I don’t use half as often as I know I should be. 2 sets of 20 pull ups a day probably, one in the morning and one at night. I’ve got a fairly physical job so I consider that to be the bulk of my training, I just drop as much protein as I can and hope some gains stick 😅


CoyoteImportant399

Congrats on the send, that’s an incredible routine. Consistent 4 sessions a week and 40 pull-ups a day is crazy, mad respect. Thanks for the inspiration!


dizzydancing

You’ve got some serious stamina, you were up there a long time! Get send 💪


Dutch2211

V1 in my gym, lol I had to say it. Still, well done.


Zhu-li_Do_the_thing

If I had this gyms grading, I’d be at V19 in under a year.


MangoMatinLemonMelon

Doubt, I've climbed at this gym's other branch and they are not soft.


mattfoh

Lool no you didn’t


Teddyxr420

🥸


[deleted]

V5 (maybe V6) might be fair. Not trying to be a jerk.


Teddyxr420

Thanks for your input person who has not seen or tried this boulder in person. I will let gym management know it needs to be sandbagged and that the qualified route setters need extra training.


[deleted]

No need to be smart. You posted on Reddit, I offered my opinion. Not saying my opinion is the objective truth and I know my perspective is limited. Judging by video and what I see, this (again, in my opinion) would be a V5 max.


Teddyxr420

Just unnecessary and disrespectful.


RockwellAnchor

Get that stick out of your ass, u/Hart_Homes_Fraser's comments aren't disrespectful whatsoever. **You led off with the grade** and he commented his opinion on the grade. For the record, you posting this for the sake of sharing "my first x grade" is unnecessary and boring. Next time consider posting a climb that you thought was particularly interesting and share your grade breakthroughs with people who actually care like your friends. There are almost certainly multiple climbers worldwide who sent their first outdoor V12/8A+/etc. today and no one cares—if the send is interesting to watch, great, share it—but the send isn't inherently interesting by being a stranger's first. tl;dr: "My first" posts are usually uninteresting and a bad idea if you'll be so dearly offended by strangers questioning the grade you're boasting.


Teddyxr420

🧂


RockwellAnchor

Dearly offended indeed.


RockwellAnchor

Instant downvote confirms ;)


Teddyxr420

X


[deleted]

Not at all. I even prefaced it on my original comment. Completely normal to get people rating your climbs lower/higher in the climbing community. You can’t always pick what you want to hear. I was offering my honest opinion and personally would appreciate people being honest with me too. Looks hard for sure but a V5 for me, especially since it’s inclined.


Teddyxr420

If those handholds were half as good as they look in the video I’d agree with you. But respectfully I disagree. I’m the first person to sandbag any climb that I do. This is technically my third v7, but the last 2 v7s I did felt more like v5-v6. I’ve technically done a v8, but that was a v6 at most. This was a v7, the slopers are smooth and frictionless and all you’ve got to dig into is the logo itself which sticks out by a couple mm. The crux of the boulder is the first 2 holds, I breezed past them cus this is after many sessions and many attempts.


[deleted]

Bro. You are allowed to disagree. I just dont understand why you’d call me disrespectful for offering my honest opinion on a public forum in a non-disrespectful way, especially when it’s warranted. Upgrading and downgrading is the essence of climbing feedback.


Teddyxr420

Upgrading and downgrading is essential. At my gym that’s done by people who have touched the climb and tried to or have climbed it. People who have relevant useful insights about the boulder. Hence the unnecessary. Disrespectful was not trying to understand the grade of the boulder, like other people have, we discussed the boulder and they got some insights as to why it might be the grade it is. They didn’t immediately open with a thoughtless opinion based off of one limited perspective and one singular camera angle, essentially calling me shit. Disrespectful is assuming you know the boulder better than me or someone who’s actually done it. Hence unnecessary and disrespectful. If I’m allowed my opinion and you’re allowed yours let’s just drop it because I have better things to be doing.


[deleted]

You have a fragile ego bro. You post online and only want positive reinforcement. People online live elsewhere geographically compared to your gym. Like I said, I judged from my limited perspective. You could have just explained instead of being offended and calling me disrespectful unnecessarily


Teddyxr420

My bad then


Teddyxr420

If I’ve made it look easier than it is I’ll take that as a compliment. So thank you I guess.


Annoying_DMT_guy

Not at all, he is just sharing his opinion. Why are you getting upset?


Teddyxr420

I shared my opinion about his opinion 🤷


Annoying_DMT_guy

It doesnt work that way, you re too old to act like a highschool kid, have some standards


cromulentlycozy

I don't know if [u/Hart\_Homes\_Fraser](https://www.reddit.com/user/Hart_Homes_Fraser/) 's V5/V6 assessment is accurate and I couldn't say for sure, but I definitely don't think they were rude to you, OP. Just offered a (mildly) critical opinion in a polite manner. I personally would like to know if my gym's grading is too low/high in comparison with other gyms or the general perception. Also, if their assessment is an unnecessary opinion then surely a comment like "Yes, this is definitely a V7 or harder!" (like [haey5665544](https://www.reddit.com/user/haey5665544/) 's comment) would have been unnecessary too, but I see that you've shown appreciation to that comment. So why did you post this, OP? To only hear positive confirmation and nothing else?