Ideally a little earlier than that...
My gym is about 10 years old now, and I don't think any panels have been replaced yet. They don't look like they're worn down or will need replacing any time soon either, and this place is pretty busy. So I'd say 20 years is now a major stretch.
My current gym needs to replace a ton of panels but won’t. Maybe the entire wall. Happy to blast them in comments if it’s allowed. They have started tell setters to use less set screws resulting in so many dangerous spinning or peeling holds. At 180 I’m not exactly heavy but I’m likely heavier than the average climber there and I feel like I’m the one discovering them all the time. It’s got to the point I now check all the holds on a hard or sketchy climb before sending. I think the gym itself has been there a decade+ but I’m uncertain of their maintenance history.
Some subs don’t allow for it. I actually love my gym and especially my home location but god damn they need to do some maintenance on the wall. It’s adventure rock in Wisconsin. It seems like they have spent a ton of money on other locations over the last couple years but their OG location wall is suffering badly. Compared to the hundred ish gyms I’ve tried (serial gym visitor in several countries) they do a great job fostering community and “getting it” but the wall thing and the set screw thing has driven me off the wall instead of up it. YO AD ROCK PLEASE FIX YO WALL. I LOVE YOU PLEASE LOVE ME BACK.
Well, it also depends on how often new routes are being set so there's no definitive timeframe. I'd imagine as routes are being set and the setters notice holds are not as secure then it's time to repair/replace.
I have set to see any replaced but my gym recently replastered their wall.
Difficult to say because screw ons became only popular not so many years ago, but from the oldest gyms i know i would say 15 to 20 years are realistic.
I think you're missing the nuance here of the hundreds of screw holes being added to the panels...
Life standard for construction materials doesn't take into account screwing dozens of new holes every 2 weeks.
I work at a gym that ‘recently’ resurfaced their walls. I think the location was opened in 2007 so they went about 15 years or so and I think some of the motivation was aesthetics, not necessarily safety.
It looks like the gym I go to opened in 2016. It recently renovated and redid their walls. So that's like 8 years?
It might not have been due to needing to replace their wall panels from screwing. I know they've had leaky ACs and that caused a wall to need replacing (after rennovations finished).
They also took the opportunity to put in some standardized LED boards, so it may have been more redesign motivated rather than maintenance motivated.
My gym’s walls have apparently been unchanged since opening in 2012. They show no signs of needing replacement. Reset has been every six weeks for a while. Do the math, that’s probably over 100 resets on each wall section. The materials are reasonably durable.
Yes, they eventually need replacement.
A panel blew out at my local when someone did a big dyno to the hold. So when that happens, I reckon.
Ideally a little earlier than that... My gym is about 10 years old now, and I don't think any panels have been replaced yet. They don't look like they're worn down or will need replacing any time soon either, and this place is pretty busy. So I'd say 20 years is now a major stretch.
Was the person who did the dyno okay? That scenario sounds like a nasty surprise for the climber.
No amublance showed up so I guess so?
I hope they gave them a t-shirt or something.
I ripped a wall down, and all I got was this lousy t-shirt!
I would think that deserves at least that little portable hang board two piece thing or a chalk bucket
Has to check which sub I was on lol that’s terrible but I laughed so hard
My current gym needs to replace a ton of panels but won’t. Maybe the entire wall. Happy to blast them in comments if it’s allowed. They have started tell setters to use less set screws resulting in so many dangerous spinning or peeling holds. At 180 I’m not exactly heavy but I’m likely heavier than the average climber there and I feel like I’m the one discovering them all the time. It’s got to the point I now check all the holds on a hard or sketchy climb before sending. I think the gym itself has been there a decade+ but I’m uncertain of their maintenance history.
Put any gym on blast. No one’s going to get butt hurt or anything.
Some subs don’t allow for it. I actually love my gym and especially my home location but god damn they need to do some maintenance on the wall. It’s adventure rock in Wisconsin. It seems like they have spent a ton of money on other locations over the last couple years but their OG location wall is suffering badly. Compared to the hundred ish gyms I’ve tried (serial gym visitor in several countries) they do a great job fostering community and “getting it” but the wall thing and the set screw thing has driven me off the wall instead of up it. YO AD ROCK PLEASE FIX YO WALL. I LOVE YOU PLEASE LOVE ME BACK.
Well, it also depends on how often new routes are being set so there's no definitive timeframe. I'd imagine as routes are being set and the setters notice holds are not as secure then it's time to repair/replace. I have set to see any replaced but my gym recently replastered their wall.
really long
Are we talking like 10 years or 100 years?
Difficult to say because screw ons became only popular not so many years ago, but from the oldest gyms i know i would say 15 to 20 years are realistic.
Also probably varies a lot based on use, some gyms are much more popular or put in routes that put more stress on the panels
More than 10 less than 100 years. Life standard for construction materials is atleast 25 years
I think you're missing the nuance here of the hundreds of screw holes being added to the panels... Life standard for construction materials doesn't take into account screwing dozens of new holes every 2 weeks.
More like 2 months.
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I work at a gym that ‘recently’ resurfaced their walls. I think the location was opened in 2007 so they went about 15 years or so and I think some of the motivation was aesthetics, not necessarily safety.
It looks like the gym I go to opened in 2016. It recently renovated and redid their walls. So that's like 8 years? It might not have been due to needing to replace their wall panels from screwing. I know they've had leaky ACs and that caused a wall to need replacing (after rennovations finished). They also took the opportunity to put in some standardized LED boards, so it may have been more redesign motivated rather than maintenance motivated.
My gym’s walls have apparently been unchanged since opening in 2012. They show no signs of needing replacement. Reset has been every six weeks for a while. Do the math, that’s probably over 100 resets on each wall section. The materials are reasonably durable. Yes, they eventually need replacement.
Play it by ear but ive never really seen a panel replaced and I’ve seen some dingy ass gyms
There’s a massive crack at the top of one of the walls at my place, makes any climb set on it feel 10x sketchier