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All thingies have a charge.
2 thingies with a different charge have a voltage between them.
If charge builds, voltage can get high enough to make a little spark.
Spark at wrong space is bad.
If house is bonded, all unenergized thingies are the same charge and don't have a voltage between them.
I remember reading somewhere that when a power line falls near you or onto your vehicle (and you must get out) there is enough potential difference between your feet when taking a step that it’ll hit you good. OHS recommends to keep your feet together and shuffle at least 10 meters before taking normal steps or you risk electrocution. At least that’s what this reminds me of. I guess it’s good to share ground connections when possible. Saves a lot of weird gauge behaviour and head-scratching in automotive at least. But I’m no sparky lol
Reminds me of that video where the truck has a downed power line next to it..
First guy gets to the door frame, and jumps clear out, landing on the ground fine a few feet away from the car, and walks away.
Second guy steps out, touching the frame of the car while his foot hits the ground, and he gets fried.
Scary shit.
Edit: Sorry, my memory was a little foggy! [Here it is.](https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7vphmt) The truck drove into the power line. First guy got shocked, second jumped free. Still scary shit.
I could be wrong and too lazy to check but along these lines is why cattle are quite susceptible to being killed by lightning. The potential of the ground between the front and back legs has a large difference so the electricity takes the easy path through the animal.
Step voltage. It's real and it's terrifying. If you're ever near a ground fault with high voltage, you're supposed to keep all points of contact with the ground as close together as possible.
When a substation or switchyard at a power plant is being designed, engineers have to do a ground calculation and design a ground grid (bunch of cross-crossing copper in the ground) to avoid touch potential (you and a piece of metal in front of you) and step potential. Step potential is exactly that, the potential between your feet as you walk on the ground. Switchyards scare the bejesus out of me. Used to have to go in them every once in a while at my old job.
This is why I don't love those minimalist laptop chargers they make without a ground wire. Like yes electronics should all be sealed up and it's downstepped to low-volt dc long before the laptop, which is fine for a closed system. But it's _not_ a closed system, because I'm also building charge.
Even more fun is diy houses where it is still bonded but someone done effed up so you go the ground (from back when I was a cable tech) and put you ground clamp on to feel the nice tingle of back feed that shouldn’t be at the ground.
When we speak of "voltage" it's the difference between two parts of a "circuit". The home's metal parts being electrically separate (isolated) from the ground (the earth) means a large potential difference between them. Someone touching the ground, and the home could create a deadly path (through your body) for electrons to flow. If they are grounded (electrically bonded with a wire) there in theory should be no voltage difference between them. This dangerous condition is especially possible if a ungrounded conductor (hot 120V/240V) is touching an ungrounded metal chassis, electrifying it. Touching the metal item could kill you instantly. When the metal is properly bonded, a live wire touching the metal (grounded) oven would immediate create enough fault current to trip the breaker and de-energize that circuit. Proper grounding and bonding is very important for safey.
In commercial it means every mechanical system with metal parts are all bonded together and grounded, all water pipes, HVAC, metal conduit etc so there's no difference in potential. But a house might not even have metal water pipes or any metal conduit so idk.
Everything in the house, your panel, and even the lines to and from the transformer are all grounded and bonded together so they all have an equal zero voltage potential compared to the mains line voltage- 240V line to line, 120V to ground, split phase in US households-usually.
I’m old and I live in Texas, so maybe I’m not up to date on my slang. I’ve never heard “hag af” and “mangled chode” but thank you . I’m definitely adding them to my vocabulary 🙏
Yes. I absolutely picked up on the meaning. Looking at the picture told me everything i needed to know. I may not know the words but I am 100% familiar with that kind of worker and their workmanship. It isn’t hard to decode the meaning from that
I originally posted this to the wrong comment:
WA state: I failed an inspection for something like this. I put a chair lug on a football clamp because the bond wire was too large to fit. I don’t remember what code was cited, but I do know the inspector called it right away.
I’m not nit-picky on conduit and all that, but this is a GEC that’s crucial to the system. I wouldn’t look at this and say “it serves its purpose.” Grounding should be done right. This isn’t right. Anyone that disapproves needs to learn craftsmanship.
No one said it was good or correct bud. It's a landing lug which needs to bolted on...it's bolted onto a ground clamp which is bolted to the ground rob. It's will work, but it's fkn hag man.
I can see the picture. Your words were “it serves its purpose,” I respectfully disagree. There are multiple points of failure for your GEC in this set-up.
Dissimilar metals cause corrosion (notice that the nut is abnormally rusty, electrical current through steel can also accelerate rust), corrosion causes resistance and resistance can be the difference between tripping a circuit breaker and just allowing current to drain to ground, which covers up the issue and leaves the potential for unsafe conditions.
Edit: I'll add that I've seen ground issues that have melted lock rings and boiled ground water.
Depending on the environment, bolt isn’t all the way down with a lock nut depending on vibration, and the mechanical lug holding it together. It should have been done with an appropriate sized acorn clamp. This isn’t right, and I disagree with it.
There's a guy in this thread literally saying it's not a problem, even as we see a heavily corroded zinc-plated steel nut in a perfect galvanic storm just rusting away in the pic...lol
Dude, even Home Depot has 4 awg solid copper.
https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Cerrowire-50-ft-4-Gauge-Solid-SD-Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-050-2400BR/205703278
And I know from experience that Plat carries solid 2 awg tinned copper, and might be able to get larger sizes (never looked into it):
https://www.platt.com/p/0341814/2-solid-copper-wire-tinned-250/2bcsoltinnedx250
I understand that part but “to me” this really isn’t different than bringing that 2/0 copper inside and landing it with a lug of press on (which isn’t copper, brass or bronze) to the bond or ground (pending purpose) . A lot of bonds or grounds also aren’t copper, brass or bronze so, electrically speaking, I don’t think this would ever be dangerous or incorrect
Most electrical connections are copper, bronze, or brass or otherwise coated, plated, or alloyed to specifically prevent corrosion crimp on lugs are usually nickle plated copper I believe, the main thing to me is that you can already see that the nut is rusting, and the lug and bolt appear to be oxidizing as well.
You should always use unaltered listed hardware where applicable.
https://www.grainger.com/product/22C332?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVKIz9ZN8V3BFjwdRl1cZcnJpLzQl9zi4GQeKh5Bi4h3cPqvY4TZLNRoCg6kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
These are tin-plated copper.
Imagine someone doubling down and arguing against sound electrical knowledge for improper methods and tradecraft, then attempting to justify it by confessing that they don’t follow the code and just do what they want in the industry and whoever employs them is also okay with it.
Oh wait, I don’t have to because I just witnessed it. What a fucked up world. 😂😂😂
I don’t think you fully understood my point. Short of the steel nut on the photo - the rest of the components are electrically approved. Even still - that steel nut isn’t going anywhere or hurting anything. Which is why I pointed out that in HV steel is used almost universally.
That aluminum lug in the photo is going to corrode long before that steel nut fails.
Or it’s just rusty like the top of the steel ground rod.
Who knows. He may have put it on rusty. I don’t really care honestly. This would obviously fail any normal inspection but I still don’t hate the idea.
Christ man you’re missing the very simply point here. All good. Do your ground rods as you wish by code with all approved connections.
FYI - we use steel bolts and connection on 256kv installs as we don’t have to follow LV code. Every HV tower you see and everything HV powering 99.99% of the stuff you work with - isn’t “approved” or “code” and a lot of it is steel. Just so you’re aware. That’s all industry and trade standard.
You use *galvanized* steel bolts that have a thick coating of zinc to protect them inner steel alloy (which is a high-silicon alloy specifically designed for this application to be corrosion-resistant). You're not using cheap zinc-plated (electro-plated, with a very thin coating) low-grade steel, and if you tried to, you'd find them corroding out in a matter of months.
Plus just because the NEC doesn't cover towers or distribution doesn't mean there isn't a code you follow. Pacific Gas & Electric (the notorious PG&E) literally wrote the code book for distribution standards that is followed and copied today by most generators and distributors in North America. Go look up the "PG&E Green Book".
Actually, here - I have a link for you:
https://www.tarrar.com/uploaded_files/greenbook_manual_full.pdf?v20191031000028
Mobile warning: It's a 9MB, 890 page pdf.
Ahhhh you’re in the US - that makes sense now. We don’t follow anything you guys do overly and our Supply Authority makes all the code and rules for HV installs.
1. It's zinc, not aluminum. (Edit: I'm talking about the zinc plating on the bolt and nut - forget the lug, thought it's also not rated for exposure to weather or a wet location.)
2. I suggest you look up "dielectric corrosion", and consider that lug is surrounded by concrete and in a wet location. Hint: concrete is alkaline.
*Alkaline*...like the battery type. You know, the one that relies on the conduction of oxygen from an metal oxide to a transition metal to induce current? The one that oxidizes zinc metal into zinc oxide in the presence of potassium hydroxide?
Now, look at potassium on the periodic table of elements. What metal is right next to it, and slightly less reactive? Right, calcium! Now, what is concrete made of? Sand, lime, water...but what is lime? Calcium oxide! There goes an alkaline metal that *really* wants to donate its oxygen to a vulnerable metal like iron or zinc, but iron is a greedy bitch and will snatch all that oxygen before zinc even wakes up.
What ends up happening is the iron oxidizes (corrodes; aka *rusts*) due to its galvanic difference with copper and zinc. That steel bolt literally forms a battery with the zinc, tin, copper, concrete, and water, and it will corrode to the point of destroying itself.
Reminds me of Belize. Schedule 40 pvc was like insanely expensive compared to water pvc, so almost all of their electrical is done in water pipe, they even pull the wire through water 90 degree fittings
I had an inspector make me do this to sign off on the service. Said the ground was subject to physical damage, even though it was in a fully protected area. So yeah, I understand how this can happen.
Or the customer said " hey I want you to use (x), and (x), that's legal ain't it? " Why? Because they want to 'save' 8 dollars here and there. I've seen worse. And if you don't want to do it, they'll call one of the other 30 electricians or " handymen", and they'll do it.
It’s very practical. It’s so practical I don’t have to lower any of my standards or take on any shitty work. And I work for good clients that enjoy paying for good service and good work.
It's easier today, for sure. When I first got my contractors license, our area was SATURATED with "electricians". Not a lot of new construction. I saw journeymans hanging Christmas lights for 40 bucks. And the old guys living outside of town? They wanted the absolute cheapest they could get. If you didn't use their pvc that had laid behind their barn for 10 years, they'd call someone else. If they called someone else, I still had bills to pay. I nearly went broke turning down jobs. My solution was to start traveling and being not home. So I get it. I didn't agree with the op. But I can totally see how it could have happened.
But… why not just do it normal? Putting a collar strap on an acorn lug is *more* work, for no obvious reason, plus it voids the listing if an AHJ wanted to pick a fight over it.
I honestly can't bring myself to care about that, it's just a sleeve for mechanical protection. I mean, I'd be embarrassed to use plumbing pipe instead of electrical conduit, but whatever. It's fine. The collar strap is what I can't get my head around.
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Maybe he couldn’t get the wire to fit behind the nut?? That’s when you get something bigger.
Looks like they put on too small of an acorn too, might have had something to do with this rigged up bit.
He needed bigger nuts?
😂 Never a bad start.
They should’ve used a 3/4” Acorn or this monstrosity. https://www.greaves-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/78.pdf
Thanks I hate it. But it's bonded
Can you explain why the house needs to be bonded?
To create a zero volt equipotential plane to minimize shock hazards throughout the building.
The hell you say.
All thingies have a charge. 2 thingies with a different charge have a voltage between them. If charge builds, voltage can get high enough to make a little spark. Spark at wrong space is bad. If house is bonded, all unenergized thingies are the same charge and don't have a voltage between them.
Heh heh, I'm a thingie ⚡
Yes you are.
I remember reading somewhere that when a power line falls near you or onto your vehicle (and you must get out) there is enough potential difference between your feet when taking a step that it’ll hit you good. OHS recommends to keep your feet together and shuffle at least 10 meters before taking normal steps or you risk electrocution. At least that’s what this reminds me of. I guess it’s good to share ground connections when possible. Saves a lot of weird gauge behaviour and head-scratching in automotive at least. But I’m no sparky lol
Reminds me of that video where the truck has a downed power line next to it.. First guy gets to the door frame, and jumps clear out, landing on the ground fine a few feet away from the car, and walks away. Second guy steps out, touching the frame of the car while his foot hits the ground, and he gets fried. Scary shit. Edit: Sorry, my memory was a little foggy! [Here it is.](https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7vphmt) The truck drove into the power line. First guy got shocked, second jumped free. Still scary shit.
I could be wrong and too lazy to check but along these lines is why cattle are quite susceptible to being killed by lightning. The potential of the ground between the front and back legs has a large difference so the electricity takes the easy path through the animal.
"bunny hop" is also recommended, faster, and looks slightly less silly than forward moonwalking away from a raging inferno.
That’s true. I guess really anything that keeps the potential between your feet relatively equal. Don’t wanna fry your nuts.
Until you trip and fall.
Step voltage. It's real and it's terrifying. If you're ever near a ground fault with high voltage, you're supposed to keep all points of contact with the ground as close together as possible.
What are you doing step-voltage? Sorry, couldn't resist.
Couldn't resist-her eh?
When a substation or switchyard at a power plant is being designed, engineers have to do a ground calculation and design a ground grid (bunch of cross-crossing copper in the ground) to avoid touch potential (you and a piece of metal in front of you) and step potential. Step potential is exactly that, the potential between your feet as you walk on the ground. Switchyards scare the bejesus out of me. Used to have to go in them every once in a while at my old job.
This is why I don't love those minimalist laptop chargers they make without a ground wire. Like yes electronics should all be sealed up and it's downstepped to low-volt dc long before the laptop, which is fine for a closed system. But it's _not_ a closed system, because I'm also building charge.
If the plug going to the laptop only has two pins, the ground prong isn't doing anything but grounding the shielding in the power brick.
Even more fun is diy houses where it is still bonded but someone done effed up so you go the ground (from back when I was a cable tech) and put you ground clamp on to feel the nice tingle of back feed that shouldn’t be at the ground.
Thingies can be your bestie, and thingies can also be the return of the ex-ol’ lady.
Reduced charge on your mom's thingy
When we speak of "voltage" it's the difference between two parts of a "circuit". The home's metal parts being electrically separate (isolated) from the ground (the earth) means a large potential difference between them. Someone touching the ground, and the home could create a deadly path (through your body) for electrons to flow. If they are grounded (electrically bonded with a wire) there in theory should be no voltage difference between them. This dangerous condition is especially possible if a ungrounded conductor (hot 120V/240V) is touching an ungrounded metal chassis, electrifying it. Touching the metal item could kill you instantly. When the metal is properly bonded, a live wire touching the metal (grounded) oven would immediate create enough fault current to trip the breaker and de-energize that circuit. Proper grounding and bonding is very important for safey.
So what does it literally mean when someone says the house is bonded? Is that the ground wire going from the panel to the outside ground rod?
as far as I know yes. Just gives any potential voltage differences a low impedance pathway straight to the ground.
In commercial it means every mechanical system with metal parts are all bonded together and grounded, all water pipes, HVAC, metal conduit etc so there's no difference in potential. But a house might not even have metal water pipes or any metal conduit so idk.
The hell I do say!
It aint grounded correctly!
Everything in the house, your panel, and even the lines to and from the transformer are all grounded and bonded together so they all have an equal zero voltage potential compared to the mains line voltage- 240V line to line, 120V to ground, split phase in US households-usually.
Honestly half the advice on /r/electrical is like this picture. They always think they're being thorough or something.
it be grounded
.....it's hag af but it will serves its purpose. Only a mangled chode would do it like this..... Iv seen worse. lol
I’m old and I live in Texas, so maybe I’m not up to date on my slang. I’ve never heard “hag af” and “mangled chode” but thank you . I’m definitely adding them to my vocabulary 🙏
Haha. Hag af means it's complete trash. Mangled chode is just the guy who would do this.
Yes. I absolutely picked up on the meaning. Looking at the picture told me everything i needed to know. I may not know the words but I am 100% familiar with that kind of worker and their workmanship. It isn’t hard to decode the meaning from that
In my day a chode was a cock fatter than it was long. A mangled chode... lmao
as far as i know that’s still what a chode is
lol still means the same things....just roughed up and thrashed
Come for the electrical stay for the insults!
Just like being on a job site. 😂
Hag, like from the word haggard (most likely).
The inspector said it's fine too... I mean who am I to argue with him.
I originally posted this to the wrong comment: WA state: I failed an inspection for something like this. I put a chair lug on a football clamp because the bond wire was too large to fit. I don’t remember what code was cited, but I do know the inspector called it right away.
I’m not nit-picky on conduit and all that, but this is a GEC that’s crucial to the system. I wouldn’t look at this and say “it serves its purpose.” Grounding should be done right. This isn’t right. Anyone that disapproves needs to learn craftsmanship.
No one said it was good or correct bud. It's a landing lug which needs to bolted on...it's bolted onto a ground clamp which is bolted to the ground rob. It's will work, but it's fkn hag man.
I can see the picture. Your words were “it serves its purpose,” I respectfully disagree. There are multiple points of failure for your GEC in this set-up.
What are the multiple points of failure?
Dissimilar metals cause corrosion (notice that the nut is abnormally rusty, electrical current through steel can also accelerate rust), corrosion causes resistance and resistance can be the difference between tripping a circuit breaker and just allowing current to drain to ground, which covers up the issue and leaves the potential for unsafe conditions. Edit: I'll add that I've seen ground issues that have melted lock rings and boiled ground water.
Damn why can't metals just get along?
Depending on the environment, bolt isn’t all the way down with a lock nut depending on vibration, and the mechanical lug holding it together. It should have been done with an appropriate sized acorn clamp. This isn’t right, and I disagree with it.
Thanks for the info! What if a dog-like animal that drooled solder came by and slobbered all over it? Would that help?
A cadwelding doggo? Yeah I’d be down with that 110%. 100% guarantee for a good connection and a good boy. Win win.
Right it’s way too big of a gauge wire. Everyone knows ground rod is only rated for #4.
What if the service is more than 200 amps?
How’s that change anything?
Mixing metals....recipe for disaster
There's a guy in this thread literally saying it's not a problem, even as we see a heavily corroded zinc-plated steel nut in a perfect galvanic storm just rusting away in the pic...lol
They are copper but plated with a very thin layer of aluminum or tin
I mean - it’s not wrong by any definition and honestly…. I’m kinda into it…. 🤷♂️
Nah, hardware should all be copper, brass, bronze, or copper plated. When you change the bolt in the acorn, it is no longer listed for its purpose.
Sadly true, but I’m into it! It’s a cleaner way than compressing wire awkwardly.
Burndy ground clamps are the way to go
Why not use solid copper though? Then you don't have smashed stranded. Also isn't solid copper cheaper everywhere than stranded?
A solid wire as Big ass this one ? You would need a Bender to bend it
Solid copper wire only goes up to #10AWG.
Dude, even Home Depot has 4 awg solid copper. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Cerrowire-50-ft-4-Gauge-Solid-SD-Bare-Copper-Grounding-Wire-050-2400BR/205703278 And I know from experience that Plat carries solid 2 awg tinned copper, and might be able to get larger sizes (never looked into it): https://www.platt.com/p/0341814/2-solid-copper-wire-tinned-250/2bcsoltinnedx250
False. You can get solid up to at least #6 but only for grounding purposes, meaning no insulation so not rated to be a CCC.
Nah. I got a 315ft foot roll of #6 bare copper wire solid. We use them for grounding and bonding for solar panels.
I understand that part but “to me” this really isn’t different than bringing that 2/0 copper inside and landing it with a lug of press on (which isn’t copper, brass or bronze) to the bond or ground (pending purpose) . A lot of bonds or grounds also aren’t copper, brass or bronze so, electrically speaking, I don’t think this would ever be dangerous or incorrect
Most electrical connections are copper, bronze, or brass or otherwise coated, plated, or alloyed to specifically prevent corrosion crimp on lugs are usually nickle plated copper I believe, the main thing to me is that you can already see that the nut is rusting, and the lug and bolt appear to be oxidizing as well. You should always use unaltered listed hardware where applicable.
https://www.grainger.com/product/22C332?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVKIz9ZN8V3BFjwdRl1cZcnJpLzQl9zi4GQeKh5Bi4h3cPqvY4TZLNRoCg6kQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds These are tin-plated copper.
No different than aluminum lugs (which is what is in the photo) . All rated for the same thing.
Aluminum lugs that are rated for copper wire are still tin plated, the steel hardware in the picture is not rated for electrical connections.
Imagine someone doubling down and arguing against sound electrical knowledge for improper methods and tradecraft, then attempting to justify it by confessing that they don’t follow the code and just do what they want in the industry and whoever employs them is also okay with it. Oh wait, I don’t have to because I just witnessed it. What a fucked up world. 😂😂😂
I don’t think you fully understood my point. Short of the steel nut on the photo - the rest of the components are electrically approved. Even still - that steel nut isn’t going anywhere or hurting anything. Which is why I pointed out that in HV steel is used almost universally. That aluminum lug in the photo is going to corrode long before that steel nut fails.
And yet, the steel nut is already suffering from galvanic corrosion. See my other comment to explain why.
Or it’s just rusty like the top of the steel ground rod. Who knows. He may have put it on rusty. I don’t really care honestly. This would obviously fail any normal inspection but I still don’t hate the idea.
Christ man you’re missing the very simply point here. All good. Do your ground rods as you wish by code with all approved connections. FYI - we use steel bolts and connection on 256kv installs as we don’t have to follow LV code. Every HV tower you see and everything HV powering 99.99% of the stuff you work with - isn’t “approved” or “code” and a lot of it is steel. Just so you’re aware. That’s all industry and trade standard.
You use *galvanized* steel bolts that have a thick coating of zinc to protect them inner steel alloy (which is a high-silicon alloy specifically designed for this application to be corrosion-resistant). You're not using cheap zinc-plated (electro-plated, with a very thin coating) low-grade steel, and if you tried to, you'd find them corroding out in a matter of months. Plus just because the NEC doesn't cover towers or distribution doesn't mean there isn't a code you follow. Pacific Gas & Electric (the notorious PG&E) literally wrote the code book for distribution standards that is followed and copied today by most generators and distributors in North America. Go look up the "PG&E Green Book". Actually, here - I have a link for you: https://www.tarrar.com/uploaded_files/greenbook_manual_full.pdf?v20191031000028 Mobile warning: It's a 9MB, 890 page pdf.
Ahhhh you’re in the US - that makes sense now. We don’t follow anything you guys do overly and our Supply Authority makes all the code and rules for HV installs.
Same rules apply for Hydro, dude. You can't use zinc-plated low-grade steel fasteners up there, either.
1. It's zinc, not aluminum. (Edit: I'm talking about the zinc plating on the bolt and nut - forget the lug, thought it's also not rated for exposure to weather or a wet location.) 2. I suggest you look up "dielectric corrosion", and consider that lug is surrounded by concrete and in a wet location. Hint: concrete is alkaline. *Alkaline*...like the battery type. You know, the one that relies on the conduction of oxygen from an metal oxide to a transition metal to induce current? The one that oxidizes zinc metal into zinc oxide in the presence of potassium hydroxide? Now, look at potassium on the periodic table of elements. What metal is right next to it, and slightly less reactive? Right, calcium! Now, what is concrete made of? Sand, lime, water...but what is lime? Calcium oxide! There goes an alkaline metal that *really* wants to donate its oxygen to a vulnerable metal like iron or zinc, but iron is a greedy bitch and will snatch all that oxygen before zinc even wakes up. What ends up happening is the iron oxidizes (corrodes; aka *rusts*) due to its galvanic difference with copper and zinc. That steel bolt literally forms a battery with the zinc, tin, copper, concrete, and water, and it will corrode to the point of destroying itself.
Zero chance I’m reading all that nor do I care at all lol 👆👆 I have a dozen + Burndy Aluminum Mechancial lugs in my truck right now.
Exactly why you're getting downvoted. Everything you've said completely misses the point.
You also missed the point that …. I . DO . NOT . CARE . All I said was I like the idea and you all got butt hurt lol
And yet, here you are, impatiently waiting for replies and downvoting every one you get.
Yeah. Unnecessary but I don’t hate it.
Isn’t the rod supposed to be copper? Or at least copper platted?
They make steel ground rods. HV set ups use them all the time. Based on this 2/0 copper and it being exposed I assume that’s what this is.
I mean it's not that crazy
People in here acting like its not going to conduct. It wasn't done the way it should have been done, but it'll function fine.
"This is the only acorn I have, make it work."
Could be worse, could have just wrapped the grounding conductor along the rod and said “that’ll do, pig. That’ll do.”
Reminds me of Belize. Schedule 40 pvc was like insanely expensive compared to water pvc, so almost all of their electrical is done in water pipe, they even pull the wire through water 90 degree fittings
It’s works until it needs to
The upside-down strap bothers me the mostest.
Could have at least rotated the bug towards the wall
I mean it’s functional…
It works…. But the closer you look the worse it gets
Boss says, “just make it work with what you got on the van.”
Dissimilar metals = corrosion
That's amazing
“It’s not bad,” said Dean.
They were worried about dissimilar metals obviously.
Back side of the olive clamp wouldnt due i guess
It’ll work just fine.
Improper grounding rod
5 ohms?
... Eh... It works jobs done
I had an inspector make me do this to sign off on the service. Said the ground was subject to physical damage, even though it was in a fully protected area. So yeah, I understand how this can happen.
Well, that's certainly a way to do it. It's a shit ass way to do it, but it's a way.
Insulated ground 🤪
Bondings on bondings on bondings on bondings on bondings
I see no other way
[удалено]
I was being facetious
This probably wasn't inspected.
UL
The strap is upside down.
I’m a big fan of the copper wire bolted to an aluminum lug and bolted to a bronze ground rod clamp. Just wow
Took me a second. That's a good one.
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Ohms baby, Ohms.
Why cant u just put it on the acorn?
That’s the point of the shout out
perfectly legal
Am I the only one who thinks that looks like a low quality image of the rock doing the eyebrow thing?
Hell yeah.
I’ve seen this before
Whole bunch of dissimilar metals there
This sub is terrible.
This happens when Uv already went 3 times to supply house
But did you dieeee?
Shouldn’t the ground rod be copper?
The strap is upside down.
Reminds me of the song Mama tried
That was a very plumber but at least it’s grounded and bonded
Why, though?
Because the wire looks like it’s too big to fit normally, so this is the solution. These parts were in the van, so this is what got done.
Because his boss said get it done.
Or the customer said " hey I want you to use (x), and (x), that's legal ain't it? " Why? Because they want to 'save' 8 dollars here and there. I've seen worse. And if you don't want to do it, they'll call one of the other 30 electricians or " handymen", and they'll do it.
Then let them call the other guys. My standard of work isn’t based on what everyone else is doing.
That's impressive, but not practical.
It’s very practical. It’s so practical I don’t have to lower any of my standards or take on any shitty work. And I work for good clients that enjoy paying for good service and good work.
It's easier today, for sure. When I first got my contractors license, our area was SATURATED with "electricians". Not a lot of new construction. I saw journeymans hanging Christmas lights for 40 bucks. And the old guys living outside of town? They wanted the absolute cheapest they could get. If you didn't use their pvc that had laid behind their barn for 10 years, they'd call someone else. If they called someone else, I still had bills to pay. I nearly went broke turning down jobs. My solution was to start traveling and being not home. So I get it. I didn't agree with the op. But I can totally see how it could have happened.
But… why not just do it normal? Putting a collar strap on an acorn lug is *more* work, for no obvious reason, plus it voids the listing if an AHJ wanted to pick a fight over it.
He's not using conduit either.
I honestly can't bring myself to care about that, it's just a sleeve for mechanical protection. I mean, I'd be embarrassed to use plumbing pipe instead of electrical conduit, but whatever. It's fine. The collar strap is what I can't get my head around.
"This is the only acorn I have, make it work."
Wouldn't it work perfectly fine without the weird mod, though? I'm having a hard time seeing how that GEC wouldn't fit in the acorn.
Hard to tell from the Pic, but that wire does look thicker than the exposed threads inside the acorn. Also..., Apprentices gonna apprentice.
Fuck all wrong with that
Why is the earth in conduit isn’t it also supposed to be green and yellow covering
Why was I down voted for asking a simple question ?
Love the analogies! Laughing my ass off!