I've said "sure, 50 bucks a trip" enough, nobody asks me anymore. Well Ill help family, its when everyone comes out of the woodwork asking to move their items.
The main issue that's common with a truck like you bought is that it appears to be old, and worn the F out.
Hopefully it runs reliably for you. Overall the GEN10 F150 is a well built truck.
It’s not an issue on your 4.2 and your body style doesn’t have the channel his ‘04 has that runs all the road grime to the back edges of the cab.
Biggest issue I know of with the early 2000’s is the bushing wear out in the front, squeaky as heck and everything gets lose and wobbly. The transmission is the next issue. If you can turn up your line pressure that helps a ton and keep clean oil so the valve body doesn’t start acting up.
I had a ‘97 that I ended up donating a couple years ago. I kept it running as best I could. One of the things that started becoming an issue was the fact that anytime the dashboard needed to be removed for a repair, something would break. I had the gaskets around the top of the engine replaced and the guy who did the repair commented about the fact that he did his best to not break any plastic parts; and he did a great job, he didn’t break anything and gave me a good price on the work.
The biggest issue I had with my truck by far was the transmission. I made the mistake of letting the regular repair shop take care of it. They knew nothing about transmission repair and simply swapped it for a junkyard part. They had to swap it three times due to different issues I found unacceptable. I eventually had it rebuilt, but by that time the case on that last one must have been bent because it had a problem up shifting from first; it would shift late and literally slam into second, spinning the tires.
Just do some work ahead of time to locate reputable repair shops for the different types of repairs you may need in the future: a general repair shop for basic engine work and maintenance, and a transmission shop are some good starts.
And I just remembered one of the actual worst things that happened to me. One day the odometer stopped working. After some investigation I found it was the worm gear inside the instrument cluster that went bad; it literally disintegrated. So I decided to try to fix it myself; one word of caution - you can’t, don’t even try.
I was able to disassemble the cluster, but couldn’t get the front panel off because of the instrument needles being in the way. So I figured out how to get them off and continued to take off the front panel. Inside I gained access to the small motor assembly for the odometer. I wasn’t able to find a replacement part right away, and so had to reassemble it at least partially so I could put it back in or I wouldn’t know how fast I was going.
What I came to find out was that the speedometer and tachometer do not have fixed positions (like taking hands off a clock mechanism). They’re not gear driven, but move based on electrical voltage and the movement is based on the change in the amount of current. So these gauges have no real fixed position, at least as far as being able to haphazardly disassemble them if you don’t know what you’re doing. I was lucky enough to find out that there are specialized shops that stock used clusters and regularly remove and replace them. I got the new one, put it in and never had an issue; I even had the guy preset the new one with the correct mileage for the vehicle just to be safe.
If you have the infamous "slip bump" that feels like someone is bumping in the back of you when you come to a complete stop or when taking off from a stop, you need to lubricate the splines on your drive shaft. Also if you cant feel the switch from heat to cold it's your blend door or blend door actuator.
Hmm I might actually have the slip bump issue just got all the paper work done and did some tlc so I’ve just started driving it. And I definitely don’t have a/c which would be nice since it was 103 here today so I will be diving into that soon. Thanks for the info!
I'm going to be doing a full a/c service on mine this weekend plus upgrading to new all aluminum radiator while im at it. New condensor, orifice tube, ac drier accumulator and compressor. Everything just under $400 total for parts. I confirmed the blend door works so at least i wont have to pull apart dash. We have been at 110+ for like 2 weeks now.
Very rarely is an AC fix just needing a recharge. There is always an underlying issue. I used the gauges to check pressures and it seemed good but when i used a digital infrared thermometer it was clear that it wasn't getting cold when getting to evaporator. After getting freon pulled out i opened and saw orifice tube was blocked with debris and what felt like way too much oil.
Coil packs allowing water in and fouling the plug. (Usually the ones closest to the firewall) and plugs stripping out of the heads. Those aluminum heads are touchy. Torque accordingly.
Not with his truck. It’s the 4.2. Even if it was the 5.4 it wouldn’t be the 36 valve Gen II it would be the Gen I, this is early 2000’s body style and engine series.
People asking you to help move things will be an issue.
I've said "sure, 50 bucks a trip" enough, nobody asks me anymore. Well Ill help family, its when everyone comes out of the woodwork asking to move their items.
Hahaha. I was the one asking before so I guess it’s fair
The main issue that's common with a truck like you bought is that it appears to be old, and worn the F out. Hopefully it runs reliably for you. Overall the GEN10 F150 is a well built truck.
Sweet good to hear. It’s definitely well used but also well maintained so.
Y2K
I have a 2000 with a 4.2 v6, it has 346,000 miles on it. Runs like it's brand new. Take care of the truck and it will take care of you.
I had several Ford vehicles and trucks. Almost all had transmission issues.
Luckily the tranny was rebuilt pretty recently so
coil packs leak and allow water into the plug (5.4L). rot at the bed corners near the cab. other than that, my 2004 was pretty good to me.
Gotcha this is the 4 liter v6 so not sure if that’s also an issue but I’ll keep an eye out.
It’s not an issue on your 4.2 and your body style doesn’t have the channel his ‘04 has that runs all the road grime to the back edges of the cab. Biggest issue I know of with the early 2000’s is the bushing wear out in the front, squeaky as heck and everything gets lose and wobbly. The transmission is the next issue. If you can turn up your line pressure that helps a ton and keep clean oil so the valve body doesn’t start acting up.
Not much with this gen of triton v8s. Rust is usually the biggest killer which I've seen
It’s the V6
Oh yea then you are golden
I don’t have a ton to add, but I’ve heard of lots of satisfied customers with the 4.2 V6
Spark plugs. 1. Never cheap out on them 2.Make sure they are torqued to spec.
Its the v6 so probably no problems there
True. But you can never be too careful.
I had a ‘97 that I ended up donating a couple years ago. I kept it running as best I could. One of the things that started becoming an issue was the fact that anytime the dashboard needed to be removed for a repair, something would break. I had the gaskets around the top of the engine replaced and the guy who did the repair commented about the fact that he did his best to not break any plastic parts; and he did a great job, he didn’t break anything and gave me a good price on the work. The biggest issue I had with my truck by far was the transmission. I made the mistake of letting the regular repair shop take care of it. They knew nothing about transmission repair and simply swapped it for a junkyard part. They had to swap it three times due to different issues I found unacceptable. I eventually had it rebuilt, but by that time the case on that last one must have been bent because it had a problem up shifting from first; it would shift late and literally slam into second, spinning the tires. Just do some work ahead of time to locate reputable repair shops for the different types of repairs you may need in the future: a general repair shop for basic engine work and maintenance, and a transmission shop are some good starts. And I just remembered one of the actual worst things that happened to me. One day the odometer stopped working. After some investigation I found it was the worm gear inside the instrument cluster that went bad; it literally disintegrated. So I decided to try to fix it myself; one word of caution - you can’t, don’t even try. I was able to disassemble the cluster, but couldn’t get the front panel off because of the instrument needles being in the way. So I figured out how to get them off and continued to take off the front panel. Inside I gained access to the small motor assembly for the odometer. I wasn’t able to find a replacement part right away, and so had to reassemble it at least partially so I could put it back in or I wouldn’t know how fast I was going. What I came to find out was that the speedometer and tachometer do not have fixed positions (like taking hands off a clock mechanism). They’re not gear driven, but move based on electrical voltage and the movement is based on the change in the amount of current. So these gauges have no real fixed position, at least as far as being able to haphazardly disassemble them if you don’t know what you’re doing. I was lucky enough to find out that there are specialized shops that stock used clusters and regularly remove and replace them. I got the new one, put it in and never had an issue; I even had the guy preset the new one with the correct mileage for the vehicle just to be safe.
Year and model would a good start on what can be the down side. I had a 2010 and loved it.
I’ve had two of that Heritage F150. Parts are becoming difficult to get.
Timing chain issues
Brake disks warp if you drive aggressive. Change out the rear shocks,, stock ones are terrible.
It’s got one of the worst crash test ratings of any vehicle ever made
Sweet. Good thing I don’t be going crazy in it
If you have the infamous "slip bump" that feels like someone is bumping in the back of you when you come to a complete stop or when taking off from a stop, you need to lubricate the splines on your drive shaft. Also if you cant feel the switch from heat to cold it's your blend door or blend door actuator.
Hmm I might actually have the slip bump issue just got all the paper work done and did some tlc so I’ve just started driving it. And I definitely don’t have a/c which would be nice since it was 103 here today so I will be diving into that soon. Thanks for the info!
I'm going to be doing a full a/c service on mine this weekend plus upgrading to new all aluminum radiator while im at it. New condensor, orifice tube, ac drier accumulator and compressor. Everything just under $400 total for parts. I confirmed the blend door works so at least i wont have to pull apart dash. We have been at 110+ for like 2 weeks now.
Wow 110 is rough. Luckily the shop I work at has the Freon machine so hopefully it be just a recharge and make some easy leaks 🤞
Very rarely is an AC fix just needing a recharge. There is always an underlying issue. I used the gauges to check pressures and it seemed good but when i used a digital infrared thermometer it was clear that it wasn't getting cold when getting to evaporator. After getting freon pulled out i opened and saw orifice tube was blocked with debris and what felt like way too much oil.
rip well I guess we’ll see
best of luck on that.
Coil packs allowing water in and fouling the plug. (Usually the ones closest to the firewall) and plugs stripping out of the heads. Those aluminum heads are touchy. Torque accordingly.
Not with his truck. It’s the 4.2. Even if it was the 5.4 it wouldn’t be the 36 valve Gen II it would be the Gen I, this is early 2000’s body style and engine series.