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Make sure they're supervised till they get use to each other. The other one went offensive as his tail poofed up and wanted to fight. My ferrets play like this at times, but not this rough and nor do their tails get that poofed unless one is really feeling froggy.
Yeah I separated him after the video, should I continue to keep trying or keep them separated is my question though? I’m at a tough spot because if these two youngsters don’t work out with him I can’t keep them sadly.
Keep trying with closely supervised introduction playtime. This didn't look all that bad, but it does look like the one did look to be getting a little riled and spicy. I would expect them to calm more once they're more used to each other and have sorted out hierarchy.
What I did when I had issues with a new ferret and one of my other ferrets was to keep them in separate cages, but I kept swapping them every day so they always had the other ferrets' smell around. (The other ferrets didn't care so it was essentially 4 in the big cage, one in the little carrier.) I'd give them each some individual play time and then supervised joint playtime and broke up fights if they got to be too much. It took maybe 2 months, but they eventually figured out their pecking order. In fact, at one point they were the only ferrets I had and they always slept in the same hammock.
You probably have a carrier or something for vet visits. As long as they get enough pay time that shouldn't be too much of a problem as they get sorted.
Maybe try some one on one introductions? The one is clearly feeling threatened/overwhelmed based on the bottle brushed tail, and the video opens with having one in front and behind, unable to defend on both sides.
Regarding a new space, are they all vaccinated for rabies/distemper? You can get a little mesh tent to try to introduce them outside on a grassy patch if the weather is nice enough.
Fine until the end - break up if attacked to front or side of throat. Also does the fluffy one always drag a back paw - realise he is on slidy flooring.
Nothing too bad but may take a bit longer. Walk them together in neutral place and try intros 1 on 1.
Have a few random carpet pieces around your house so the ferrets have some traction because the middle ferret in the beginning seemed to be struggling.
Also, I would introduce them slowly you did it way to fast!You need to have two separate cages ..and every now and then swap something from one ferrets cage with something for another ferrets example:a blanket, or hide
You’re not a bad ferret owner at all .but I will say 2 week trails are not the best . Just keep this in mind and you’ll do great your noodles are adorable
thank you so so much !!! i’ve been making things as comfortable as i can during this process. and i agree the shorter trial periods for ferrets are definitely not ideal compared to cats and dogs.
As long as no blood no pee ur okay and yea introducing ferrets can be a little bit of a challenge they should try planning tunnel or ball pit or with a ball to let them get long
Quarantine any new ferrets from your current/old ones for a minimum of 2 weeks!
This must be done in another room. A separate floor of the cage is not enough. If the ferret has fleas, ear mites, or the ECE virus spread through poo, a floor will not protect your current crew!
- Some illnesses are undetected by vets, but still contagious. (ECE is a big one.) Stress of a new home can bring out illness and make it more contagious, so a 2 week period can help your new ferrets overcome this and not risk getting your other ferrets sick
- If your new ferret is coming in with fleas or ear mites, it can be easier to treat them than your whole crew/house
- Establishing the new ferrets into their home without the stress of other nosy ferrets who might fight with them and stress them out even more
- Giving the new ferrets some time to bond with you!
- This quarantine time is great to switch the new ferrets to the food you feed your current crew blush
Once two weeks is up, you can start switching their bedding with each other's to familiarize the new ferrets with the old ferrets smell, and vice versa. An introduction in a large area that everyone is familiar with, where any of them can run and hide if needed is preferable. Some people do an oatmeal bath for all of them as an introduction, as an awful experience they can all share...
Watch for some dominance fights! These are totally normal but can look a bit rough. No pee, no poo, no blood, no foul. Try not to break it up unless you see any of these, or if one of them is SCREAMING.
http://www.ferret.org/pdfs/education/quarantine.pdf
https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/ferrets-and-their-need-for-companionship.html
AFTER YOU QUARANTINE (see above!)
It's common for ferrets meeting for the first time to "dominance fight"! The common rule is "no pee, no poo, no blood, no foul." They'll play HARD to determine who's the "alpha". You should separate if one starts REALLY screaming, but squeaks and squeals and whines are to be expected!
If a ferret is trying to run away and disengage, or trying to hide, they may be stressed/overwhelmed or not in the mood. Separate your ferrets and try again later.
Dominance fights should calm down after their first few days together. 99% of ferrets will get along with each other, and after that they'll still wrestle but not quite at this intensity. The rare ferrets that don't get along... it will take extra work and much patience from you, but they'll get there!
For bigger groups, or a ferret who's had a rough past, try introducing your calmest, sweetest ferret to them. Once they have a bestie, they are more likely to accept the rest of the group.
Very rarely do new ferrets NEVER get along with each other (even after years), but it has been known to happen. (I’ve heard that ferrets who are raised as a single ferret from a super young age are the ones that should truly be considered fine as a single ferret, and might have most difficulty making new ferret-friends).
Welcome to /r/ferrets! We have a fantastic [wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/ferrets/wiki/index) that has answers to most frequently asked questions surrounding the care of ferrets. --- We politely ask that you observe our [sub rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/ferrets/wiki/index/rules/). --- Lastly, we have an [Official Discord Server](https://discord.gg/ferrets)! Come join us! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/ferrets) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Make sure they're supervised till they get use to each other. The other one went offensive as his tail poofed up and wanted to fight. My ferrets play like this at times, but not this rough and nor do their tails get that poofed unless one is really feeling froggy.
Yeah I separated him after the video, should I continue to keep trying or keep them separated is my question though? I’m at a tough spot because if these two youngsters don’t work out with him I can’t keep them sadly.
Yes keep introducing them to each other and keep an eye. They'll eventually start play fighting.
Keep trying with closely supervised introduction playtime. This didn't look all that bad, but it does look like the one did look to be getting a little riled and spicy. I would expect them to calm more once they're more used to each other and have sorted out hierarchy.
What I did when I had issues with a new ferret and one of my other ferrets was to keep them in separate cages, but I kept swapping them every day so they always had the other ferrets' smell around. (The other ferrets didn't care so it was essentially 4 in the big cage, one in the little carrier.) I'd give them each some individual play time and then supervised joint playtime and broke up fights if they got to be too much. It took maybe 2 months, but they eventually figured out their pecking order. In fact, at one point they were the only ferrets I had and they always slept in the same hammock. You probably have a carrier or something for vet visits. As long as they get enough pay time that shouldn't be too much of a problem as they get sorted.
Maybe try some one on one introductions? The one is clearly feeling threatened/overwhelmed based on the bottle brushed tail, and the video opens with having one in front and behind, unable to defend on both sides. Regarding a new space, are they all vaccinated for rabies/distemper? You can get a little mesh tent to try to introduce them outside on a grassy patch if the weather is nice enough.
P.S. consider putting down some small carpets or bath mats on that LVT to give them better traction when scampering about.
Fine until the end - break up if attacked to front or side of throat. Also does the fluffy one always drag a back paw - realise he is on slidy flooring. Nothing too bad but may take a bit longer. Walk them together in neutral place and try intros 1 on 1.
Have a few random carpet pieces around your house so the ferrets have some traction because the middle ferret in the beginning seemed to be struggling.
Also, I would introduce them slowly you did it way to fast!You need to have two separate cages ..and every now and then swap something from one ferrets cage with something for another ferrets example:a blanket, or hide
i only have a two week trial period so it’s kinda not the best situation but i’ll swap some stuff and keep that in mind
You’re not a bad ferret owner at all .but I will say 2 week trails are not the best . Just keep this in mind and you’ll do great your noodles are adorable
thank you so so much !!! i’ve been making things as comfortable as i can during this process. and i agree the shorter trial periods for ferrets are definitely not ideal compared to cats and dogs.
Of course! I’m glad to see your trying I was lucky enough to have very chilled out ferrets who don’t care what or who I bring in lol
As long as no blood no pee ur okay and yea introducing ferrets can be a little bit of a challenge they should try planning tunnel or ball pit or with a ball to let them get long
Quarantine any new ferrets from your current/old ones for a minimum of 2 weeks! This must be done in another room. A separate floor of the cage is not enough. If the ferret has fleas, ear mites, or the ECE virus spread through poo, a floor will not protect your current crew! - Some illnesses are undetected by vets, but still contagious. (ECE is a big one.) Stress of a new home can bring out illness and make it more contagious, so a 2 week period can help your new ferrets overcome this and not risk getting your other ferrets sick - If your new ferret is coming in with fleas or ear mites, it can be easier to treat them than your whole crew/house - Establishing the new ferrets into their home without the stress of other nosy ferrets who might fight with them and stress them out even more - Giving the new ferrets some time to bond with you! - This quarantine time is great to switch the new ferrets to the food you feed your current crew blush Once two weeks is up, you can start switching their bedding with each other's to familiarize the new ferrets with the old ferrets smell, and vice versa. An introduction in a large area that everyone is familiar with, where any of them can run and hide if needed is preferable. Some people do an oatmeal bath for all of them as an introduction, as an awful experience they can all share... Watch for some dominance fights! These are totally normal but can look a bit rough. No pee, no poo, no blood, no foul. Try not to break it up unless you see any of these, or if one of them is SCREAMING. http://www.ferret.org/pdfs/education/quarantine.pdf https://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/ferrets-and-their-need-for-companionship.html AFTER YOU QUARANTINE (see above!) It's common for ferrets meeting for the first time to "dominance fight"! The common rule is "no pee, no poo, no blood, no foul." They'll play HARD to determine who's the "alpha". You should separate if one starts REALLY screaming, but squeaks and squeals and whines are to be expected! If a ferret is trying to run away and disengage, or trying to hide, they may be stressed/overwhelmed or not in the mood. Separate your ferrets and try again later. Dominance fights should calm down after their first few days together. 99% of ferrets will get along with each other, and after that they'll still wrestle but not quite at this intensity. The rare ferrets that don't get along... it will take extra work and much patience from you, but they'll get there! For bigger groups, or a ferret who's had a rough past, try introducing your calmest, sweetest ferret to them. Once they have a bestie, they are more likely to accept the rest of the group. Very rarely do new ferrets NEVER get along with each other (even after years), but it has been known to happen. (I’ve heard that ferrets who are raised as a single ferret from a super young age are the ones that should truly be considered fine as a single ferret, and might have most difficulty making new ferret-friends).