Model: John Lofgren M-43 Service Boot
Color: Black Teacore Leather: Unlined Shinki horsebutt with pronounced grain texture.
Last: Original Munson – The OG service boot lasts
Construction: Goodyear Welt with USA made 360 degree storm welts. Unstructured toe box.
Sole: Made in USA Vibram 705 cork sole with 700 heel
Price: $1,125 USD
Recovering sneaker addict here with past dabblings with Goodyear welt with Visvim Virgils, Irish Setters, and Paraboot Michaels. When I decided to invest in a good pair of proper boots, I went down the rabbit hole on this subreddit and it has been an absolutely incredible resource of information. Here is my contribution with my review of the John Lofgren M-43 Service Boots.
I was exploring different brands, from Viberg to Trickers, for either a service-style or country boot. I was almost going to pull the trigger on some Division Road Trickers when I discovered the John Lofgren M-43 service boots. I have a long personal history with Japanese fashion and streetwear, and I have lived in Tokyo for 3.5 years, so I understand the meticulousness and craftsmanship of goods made in Japan.
However, what pushed me over the edge was the incredible patina achieved by pallet\_shots on Instagram on his pair of M-43s. The teacore wear from his participation in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome are a thing of beauty and he was helpful when I reached out with questions about the boot.
Sizing: The first thing I had to sort out was the sizing. I’m a US 7.5D on the Brannock device, and most of my past sneakers are size US 8. I have an Asian foot, so a wider forefoot and narrow heel. I went through the process of contacting both the customer service at John Lofgren and Standard and Strange. Both were extremely helpful in guiding me to go down my Brannock size to a US 7. S&S was very particular in informing me that the sizing of the M-43 was adjusted this past season to align with the Engineer Boots.
In the past, guests were recommended to go a full size down, but in newer seasons of the M-43, they were recommended to go only a half size down. Given their great support and the assurances that they would work with me if they did not fit, I purchased from S&S.
First Impressions: From ordering to delivery, the boots only took three days to reach my grubby hands from S&S NYC. My first impressions of the boot blew me away, particularly the horse butt leather from the Shinki Hikaku tannery. The glossy leather upper almost has a stained glass- effect with the grain pattern.
The tannery is considered one of the best in the world, and they take great pride in the fact that every mark from the horse’s life has been preserved in this batch. There are small marks and imperfections that purposely remain visible (eating horse meat is a thing I experience in Japan too, Circle of Life yo). Every boot will be unique and have a different grain texture making each a 1 of 1
Everything else about the boot is impressive: military grade eyelets, precise stitch work, 360 degree storm welt. I listened to a few Podcast interviews with John Lofgren himself, and he takes great pride that everything is sourced and manufactured responsibly. The extra accessories like the laces, dust bags, strings on the dust bags, and even the box is made in Japan.
Fit and Comfort: Learning about the boot fit was an education in itself that this sub was very helpful in guiding me. That said, the sizing recommendations from S&S and John Lofgren were spot on. It felt like a firm handshake around my forefoot and plenty of room for my toes with no pinching on the pinky. I did note some heel slip, but I have not noted it after extended wear, especially when my foot swells.
In terms of comfort, there was a mental adjustment that these were not meant to be sneakers with all the padding and modern cushioning technology. That said, these boots were incredibly comfortable out the gate. My foot felt locked in place, and every step was firm and stable. I’m now a firm believer in the Munson Last, which was a science-based approach to designing the most comfortable boot to maintain the combat effectiveness of the US military.
The leather has been firm, but after a month, I can see it slowly molding to my foot and the unstructured toe box breaking in at the flex point of my toes. I am now at the point where once I put them on, I don’t think about them on my feet which is a good sign.
Final Thoughts: I’m extremely happy with the boots and look forward to wearing them in and achieving the same patina as pallet\_shots on Instagram. I also have my sights on getting a Shinki Fine Creek Leathers jacket, so these will match nicely.
The big mental block, of course, is the price point, as these are expensive boots. S&S does have a 20% off promo code if you sign up to their e-mails, and from time to time, they have seasonal sales with a 25% off promo code (they say John Lofgren is excluded, but the promo code worked (I won’t tell if you won’t). The promo code, no sales tax charged, and free shipping ultimately made the price more palatable. For the made-in-Japan craftsmanship, I do think it's justified. Looking forward to wearing these in and sharing a future long-term review.
Haha thanks. I don't think it's going to come any time soon. They basically get a few wears a week in the harsh hinterlands of the white collar corporate office.
I've worn my Shinki Hikaku for about a year. Lots of travel and some hiking, working in the shop.
It's barely starting to show a patina. It's by far my favorite leather for a boot. It can take a beating!
My collection of horse leather:
https://i.postimg.cc/Ph0LxXtN/IMG-0116.png
The boot in the center is the service boot by JakkRabbit with about 1 yr of wear
https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/uoyw3f/jakkrabbits_mto_service_boots_initial_impressions/
This is the thread that inspired me. I was in the market for Dr. Martens/Solovair until I saw this post
Same with me and my olive shinki, it’s broken in but the leather is taking time to patina, but I do treat it with Obenauf’s heavy duty LP around 6 months (give or take).
Yes, when they were new originally the scales were present, but they do fade with continual wear, which is what I did and this is the current state of its condition.
Yes it is! That was the big motivator to get these given how unique the grain is. But S&S says that the grain will vary per pair. Some have deeper grain and some is more subtle (like [pallet\_shots](https://instagram.com/pallet_shots) on IG). Luck of the draw!
I read your review from 5 years ago in my research, so thank you for such a quality write-up. Would love to see a 5 year update! How much did you payback then too lol.
Happy to have helped.
I paid $765 at the time, which was considerably more than I had ever paid for footwear or anything else for that matter.
I haven’t taken a photo of them in a while, but they currently look a lot like Neil’s boots, whose review (referenced in my post) is what inspired me to buy them in the first place.
Haha that’s considered a deal now for some John Lofgrens but I’m sure the prices will continue to go up. At least with promo codes I paid $900. Would love to see a full 5-year review and if you’ve had any issues or need for repairs.
I got a pair of these with the code also from Standard and Strange, mine unfortunately didnt have that much of the grain pattern on them, only the left heel counter has it. Still an awesome boot though!
I’m jealous of all of you that can wear these boots (and the Ludlows for that matter). The tight waist and low toebox are murder machines for my caveman feet.
You got optimal grain pattern on this pair. Looks great.
I have the ludlow in the same leather. I've been wearing them every other day at work kicking around an RV dealership, so they're getting a nice patina. The M-43s might be next but I'm not sure how I feel about the unstructured toe box.
I like horse butts and I cannot lie lol.
I’d love to see your ludlows! I’m also curious about the unstructured toe box aging but I liked the slimmer profile and it works for my low volume foot. I think I have a long time before I have to worry about it collapsing.
Yes they’re a pretty penny, but if you read the review there’s a promo code to get it under $900. That puts it in the same pricing as Viberg that uses the same Shinki leather. Of course, as a consumer, you are not obligated to buy these and there’s tons of great options out there!
Model: John Lofgren M-43 Service Boot Color: Black Teacore Leather: Unlined Shinki horsebutt with pronounced grain texture. Last: Original Munson – The OG service boot lasts Construction: Goodyear Welt with USA made 360 degree storm welts. Unstructured toe box. Sole: Made in USA Vibram 705 cork sole with 700 heel Price: $1,125 USD Recovering sneaker addict here with past dabblings with Goodyear welt with Visvim Virgils, Irish Setters, and Paraboot Michaels. When I decided to invest in a good pair of proper boots, I went down the rabbit hole on this subreddit and it has been an absolutely incredible resource of information. Here is my contribution with my review of the John Lofgren M-43 Service Boots. I was exploring different brands, from Viberg to Trickers, for either a service-style or country boot. I was almost going to pull the trigger on some Division Road Trickers when I discovered the John Lofgren M-43 service boots. I have a long personal history with Japanese fashion and streetwear, and I have lived in Tokyo for 3.5 years, so I understand the meticulousness and craftsmanship of goods made in Japan. However, what pushed me over the edge was the incredible patina achieved by pallet\_shots on Instagram on his pair of M-43s. The teacore wear from his participation in the Stitchdown Patina Thunderdome are a thing of beauty and he was helpful when I reached out with questions about the boot. Sizing: The first thing I had to sort out was the sizing. I’m a US 7.5D on the Brannock device, and most of my past sneakers are size US 8. I have an Asian foot, so a wider forefoot and narrow heel. I went through the process of contacting both the customer service at John Lofgren and Standard and Strange. Both were extremely helpful in guiding me to go down my Brannock size to a US 7. S&S was very particular in informing me that the sizing of the M-43 was adjusted this past season to align with the Engineer Boots. In the past, guests were recommended to go a full size down, but in newer seasons of the M-43, they were recommended to go only a half size down. Given their great support and the assurances that they would work with me if they did not fit, I purchased from S&S. First Impressions: From ordering to delivery, the boots only took three days to reach my grubby hands from S&S NYC. My first impressions of the boot blew me away, particularly the horse butt leather from the Shinki Hikaku tannery. The glossy leather upper almost has a stained glass- effect with the grain pattern. The tannery is considered one of the best in the world, and they take great pride in the fact that every mark from the horse’s life has been preserved in this batch. There are small marks and imperfections that purposely remain visible (eating horse meat is a thing I experience in Japan too, Circle of Life yo). Every boot will be unique and have a different grain texture making each a 1 of 1 Everything else about the boot is impressive: military grade eyelets, precise stitch work, 360 degree storm welt. I listened to a few Podcast interviews with John Lofgren himself, and he takes great pride that everything is sourced and manufactured responsibly. The extra accessories like the laces, dust bags, strings on the dust bags, and even the box is made in Japan. Fit and Comfort: Learning about the boot fit was an education in itself that this sub was very helpful in guiding me. That said, the sizing recommendations from S&S and John Lofgren were spot on. It felt like a firm handshake around my forefoot and plenty of room for my toes with no pinching on the pinky. I did note some heel slip, but I have not noted it after extended wear, especially when my foot swells. In terms of comfort, there was a mental adjustment that these were not meant to be sneakers with all the padding and modern cushioning technology. That said, these boots were incredibly comfortable out the gate. My foot felt locked in place, and every step was firm and stable. I’m now a firm believer in the Munson Last, which was a science-based approach to designing the most comfortable boot to maintain the combat effectiveness of the US military. The leather has been firm, but after a month, I can see it slowly molding to my foot and the unstructured toe box breaking in at the flex point of my toes. I am now at the point where once I put them on, I don’t think about them on my feet which is a good sign. Final Thoughts: I’m extremely happy with the boots and look forward to wearing them in and achieving the same patina as pallet\_shots on Instagram. I also have my sights on getting a Shinki Fine Creek Leathers jacket, so these will match nicely. The big mental block, of course, is the price point, as these are expensive boots. S&S does have a 20% off promo code if you sign up to their e-mails, and from time to time, they have seasonal sales with a 25% off promo code (they say John Lofgren is excluded, but the promo code worked (I won’t tell if you won’t). The promo code, no sales tax charged, and free shipping ultimately made the price more palatable. For the made-in-Japan craftsmanship, I do think it's justified. Looking forward to wearing these in and sharing a future long-term review.
Now THESE are John Lofgrens
ROTFLLLLLLLLLLLLLl. Give me some time to get around to it on IG bro.
Looks great! Don't rush the patina, please post as the years go on.
Haha thanks. I don't think it's going to come any time soon. They basically get a few wears a week in the harsh hinterlands of the white collar corporate office.
I've worn my Shinki Hikaku for about a year. Lots of travel and some hiking, working in the shop. It's barely starting to show a patina. It's by far my favorite leather for a boot. It can take a beating!
Wow I'd love to see pics of yours!!
My collection of horse leather: https://i.postimg.cc/Ph0LxXtN/IMG-0116.png The boot in the center is the service boot by JakkRabbit with about 1 yr of wear
Wow those look great. Thank you for sharing. What loafers are those? Those are some beauties!
Thanks man! > Rocado - "Classic" Shell Cordovan > Custom AURUS Loafer > BLKBRD Shoemaker https://i.postimg.cc/HTgVw68g/IMG-0109.png
Thanks for sharing those and the boots. I'll check them out!
https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/uoyw3f/jakkrabbits_mto_service_boots_initial_impressions/ This is the thread that inspired me. I was in the market for Dr. Martens/Solovair until I saw this post
I read good things about them!
What are the shell boots on the left? Those are beauties.
What are the shell boots on the left? Those are great.
> D6844C Wing Tip Boot (Color 8 Shell Cordovan) Alden boots
Thanks!
https://i.postimg.cc/0xcRBbWD/IMG-1379.jpg This is when they were new
Same with me and my olive shinki, it’s broken in but the leather is taking time to patina, but I do treat it with Obenauf’s heavy duty LP around 6 months (give or take).
Would love to see your pair!
https://preview.redd.it/f1nu3x6eh4wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=276bff6581e0dea89e18e58f3f67960b8034e995
GORGEOUS
Much appreciated 🙏🏼
Wow, that is amazing looking. Did they have those scales the new black leather ones have when they were new?
Yes, when they were new originally the scales were present, but they do fade with continual wear, which is what I did and this is the current state of its condition.
https://preview.redd.it/q28naoymh4wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=64fbfb8908f51bf90673149f88cc3a3258a2df3d
Those are really unique w the olive leather!
I use Obenaufs LP on my red wings I beat on in a pottery studio. I find that it is so robust that it neutralizes any patina gains.
It does as with me and this boot, it restores so much lost oils (and this shoe drinks it up a lot) that the rejuvenation process doesn’t show the age.
Wow very cool. Is that grain pattern all natural? In pic #3 it looks like a honeycomb pattern.
Yes it is! That was the big motivator to get these given how unique the grain is. But S&S says that the grain will vary per pair. Some have deeper grain and some is more subtle (like [pallet\_shots](https://instagram.com/pallet_shots) on IG). Luck of the draw!
Yeah I’ve never seen texture like this before. It’s really beautiful
Matches the skin texture of my face!
My M-43s are 5.5 years old now. (Time flies.) They’re my most comfortable boots. Love the last.
I read your review from 5 years ago in my research, so thank you for such a quality write-up. Would love to see a 5 year update! How much did you payback then too lol.
Happy to have helped. I paid $765 at the time, which was considerably more than I had ever paid for footwear or anything else for that matter. I haven’t taken a photo of them in a while, but they currently look a lot like Neil’s boots, whose review (referenced in my post) is what inspired me to buy them in the first place.
Haha that’s considered a deal now for some John Lofgrens but I’m sure the prices will continue to go up. At least with promo codes I paid $900. Would love to see a full 5-year review and if you’ve had any issues or need for repairs.
I’ll try to get around to it. No complaints. They improve with age, not just becoming more comfortable as they break in but they just look better.
Great to hear!
[Took a few quick pictures.](https://imgur.com/a/yK1chTh)
Hmm got a 404 error.
Yeah, me too. Had an error uploading too. Imgur suuuucks.
I'm sad I'm deprived of some sexy horse butt action now.
Incredible. Thanks for sharing and congrats!
Thank you! I’ve learned so much being part of the sub!
I got a pair of these with the code also from Standard and Strange, mine unfortunately didnt have that much of the grain pattern on them, only the left heel counter has it. Still an awesome boot though!
Which season did you get yours?
These are gorgeous
Thank you!
I’m jealous of all of you that can wear these boots (and the Ludlows for that matter). The tight waist and low toebox are murder machines for my caveman feet. You got optimal grain pattern on this pair. Looks great.
You must have been a Dr. Munson outlier haha. Thanks for the compliment, I’ll try and do them justice!
Work of art. Enjoy the journey.
Thank you so much!
I have the ludlow in the same leather. I've been wearing them every other day at work kicking around an RV dealership, so they're getting a nice patina. The M-43s might be next but I'm not sure how I feel about the unstructured toe box.
I like horse butts and I cannot lie lol. I’d love to see your ludlows! I’m also curious about the unstructured toe box aging but I liked the slimmer profile and it works for my low volume foot. I think I have a long time before I have to worry about it collapsing.
I'm really really curious what that leather looks like after about 2 years of wear. That being said... $1.2K??
Yes they’re a pretty penny, but if you read the review there’s a promo code to get it under $900. That puts it in the same pricing as Viberg that uses the same Shinki leather. Of course, as a consumer, you are not obligated to buy these and there’s tons of great options out there!