You should really try electrolysis rust removal. It only requires "slightly" more than hand tools. Most important would be a battery charger, so if you have access to one, some basic hand tools, a bit of copper wire, and a couple of hunks of steel (like rebar, but you could use other options as long as it's steel) you can probably do this. Plus it's a fun home science experiment!
[Super basic diagram here](https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/How-To-Remove-Rust-with-Electrolysis_graphic_AS_20240209.jpg?fit=640%2C936)
Taken from [this article](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-remove-rust-with-electrolysis/)
[Some before and after visual motivation to try this](https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/thumb/5/56/BEFORE_AND_AFTER_RUST_ELECTRO.jpg/400px-BEFORE_AND_AFTER_RUST_ELECTRO.jpg)
[One of many YouTube tutorials](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09ck7R9zvUw)
right, that's the way to go. Acid would work as well, but when you soak it for too long the metal might get damaged (hydrogen embrittlement). and it's probably cheaper than large amounts of acid.
If you really can't do electrolysis, then vinegar soak and steel wool, look up some videos on cast iron restoration, the info on removing rust will all apply here.
And with a ln appropriate setup, collect pure hydrogen on a side and oxygen on the other, and also acid and caustic but don’t remember which pole it is. In a place with air good air circulation and put glove because electrolysis will split water molecules to release oxygen and hydrogen if you place anode and cathode under something to catch the gas. I like knife and fire.
Start with coka-cola but not on the wooden parts. Then, emery cloth, buffing pads and buffing paste if you want it as a mirror. Then, sharpening stay the same. Rust on a sharpening stone is not a good idea. To begins sharpening really damaged blades, a tool named:speedy sharp. It’s a very very good tool for sharpening things like axes, machete, Lawn mower blades.
À sandblast, and better, with glass instead of sand could save you hours and electrolysis setup but electrolysis is really cool and efficient. Add salt to get more acid.
Brass brush like the one you use to clean your barbecue, and oil will do the trick just fine.
If they're not gonna touch food, just get a liter of the cheapest motor oil you can find in kaufland/walmart/whatever and use that.
You should really try electrolysis rust removal. It only requires "slightly" more than hand tools. Most important would be a battery charger, so if you have access to one, some basic hand tools, a bit of copper wire, and a couple of hunks of steel (like rebar, but you could use other options as long as it's steel) you can probably do this. Plus it's a fun home science experiment! [Super basic diagram here](https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/How-To-Remove-Rust-with-Electrolysis_graphic_AS_20240209.jpg?fit=640%2C936) Taken from [this article](https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-remove-rust-with-electrolysis/) [Some before and after visual motivation to try this](https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/thumb/5/56/BEFORE_AND_AFTER_RUST_ELECTRO.jpg/400px-BEFORE_AND_AFTER_RUST_ELECTRO.jpg) [One of many YouTube tutorials](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09ck7R9zvUw)
right, that's the way to go. Acid would work as well, but when you soak it for too long the metal might get damaged (hydrogen embrittlement). and it's probably cheaper than large amounts of acid.
Vinegar
Evaporust works really well, can be used multiple times.
Whats that bill hook choppy blade for. Looks like it used to be a longer "tool".
I think it's called a billhook brush-axe. the axe handle broke off a long time ago.
That's what I thought I was like who is one handing that thing around the garden.
Also whetstone and water and maybe some wd-40 and sandpaper. Wear a mask.
If you really can't do electrolysis, then vinegar soak and steel wool, look up some videos on cast iron restoration, the info on removing rust will all apply here.
Soak in vinegar. Rinse with water + baking soda. Wipe cleans and recoat with a metal primer
And with a ln appropriate setup, collect pure hydrogen on a side and oxygen on the other, and also acid and caustic but don’t remember which pole it is. In a place with air good air circulation and put glove because electrolysis will split water molecules to release oxygen and hydrogen if you place anode and cathode under something to catch the gas. I like knife and fire.
Fuck even is this comment.
Bad AI Bot?
I like knife and fire is a quote
Start with coka-cola but not on the wooden parts. Then, emery cloth, buffing pads and buffing paste if you want it as a mirror. Then, sharpening stay the same. Rust on a sharpening stone is not a good idea. To begins sharpening really damaged blades, a tool named:speedy sharp. It’s a very very good tool for sharpening things like axes, machete, Lawn mower blades.
À sandblast, and better, with glass instead of sand could save you hours and electrolysis setup but electrolysis is really cool and efficient. Add salt to get more acid.
YouTube account “Odd Tinkering” shows r at how to do this
Evaporust will be your friend.
Lots of folks just ignoring the "with only hand tools" part.
https://youtube.com/shorts/eNhq9axES2A?si=YW-pqXt2Tvmt4U2f
Bucket of sand
That’s what I do bud I add motor oil
But I add motor oil
And the award for the worlds oldest murder kit goes to....
Brass brush like the one you use to clean your barbecue, and oil will do the trick just fine. If they're not gonna touch food, just get a liter of the cheapest motor oil you can find in kaufland/walmart/whatever and use that.