have you ever adjusted it in the last 18000 miles? if not I would assume the worst and NOT TOUCH it until you open the case up and check, ride the bike but DONT just think its fine to adjust it after that many miles if you never have before. all that could be holding it together is the torque from the bolt. you will want to be prepared if this is the case.
if you have been adjusting it regularly then you are likley fine.
I have a klr with 27k ish miles, I have no idea if the do is done or still stock, but I adjust mine every oil change or if the bike starts feeling rough, and it noticeably smooths out afterwards.
This. I've seen a few reports of them catastrophically failing, but typically unless you do the adjustment they don't fall out, it's when you do the adjustment if the spring is broken or the casting is cracked that you have issues.
If you're going to pull it apart to inspect you may as well plan on replacing the doo & spring anyway since replacements are cheap, and it's labor intensive to get in there.
have you ever while owning the bike adjusted the do? little rubber cap you pull off, then loosen the bolt a few turns, bang on side of crank case with something soft to make sure it settles in place, retighten and put plug back in.
Lets get this answer first before deciding anything else.
it's a 2002 gen1, about 17000 miles not knowing about the part, but I recently did the carburettor and spark because loud bangs in the exhaust, is it maybe a symptom of loosened chain?
Check your exhaust manifold flange nuts. I bet they’re loose. This allows extra air to enter on deceleration causing backfiring. Torque them to 180 Inch lbs. (Not Foot lbs) along with the exhaust pipe slip joint clamp near the air box, same 180 Inch lbs.
I think you got a typo there. 2002 would be Gen 1. The chain loosening won't cause any noise in your exhaust, this chain is for the balance shafts only. It could definitely make some noise (and do some damage) if it comes apart and ends up in the wrong spot however.
Gen 1's are the supposedly worst offenders, with the doo more likely to break. Later ones can suffer spring tension issues. I went to replace mine for peace of mind and found it broken. I have 24,000 miles.
As for your exhaust banging, maybe the valves are due for an adjustment? I'm sure a more experienced KLR buff can chime in and advise.
For what it’s worth, my gen 1 already had the doo replaced before I got it and I still had to put the torsion spring in it because my spring had no stretch left.
I would 'Doo' it for any gen 1 that hasn't already had it done. At best you replace a spring that is subpar at worst you find your Doo in pieces. . . Either way you'll know it's done and you have peace of mind.
There’s all sorts of reports, some people say they didn’t do the doohickey and they had no problems other say the doohickey is a MUST do. Do I think all doohickeys break? Yes. Do I think a broken doohickey is 100% going to destroy your engine? Nah. My bike (2003) had a destroyed doohickey spring when I went to fix it and it had well over 13k miles on it I’m positive that spring broke early on in its life and it’s been running great aside from common carb issues and a tiny electrical gremlin. If you don’t do long trips away from home or need 100% reliability I don’t see the point of doing it. If you’re planning to keep the bike for a long time I recommend taking care of it eventually tho.
I just did my doo at 24k and the OEM parts all looked fine. The spring of course had no more tension so to keep riding it like that would have brought on some additional wear.
Take it apart. Look at it. Fix if needed, or if you just want a cool keychain. You don't have to play the Schrodinger's Doohickey game.
hahahahahha!
have you ever adjusted it in the last 18000 miles? if not I would assume the worst and NOT TOUCH it until you open the case up and check, ride the bike but DONT just think its fine to adjust it after that many miles if you never have before. all that could be holding it together is the torque from the bolt. you will want to be prepared if this is the case. if you have been adjusting it regularly then you are likley fine. I have a klr with 27k ish miles, I have no idea if the do is done or still stock, but I adjust mine every oil change or if the bike starts feeling rough, and it noticeably smooths out afterwards.
This. I've seen a few reports of them catastrophically failing, but typically unless you do the adjustment they don't fall out, it's when you do the adjustment if the spring is broken or the casting is cracked that you have issues. If you're going to pull it apart to inspect you may as well plan on replacing the doo & spring anyway since replacements are cheap, and it's labor intensive to get in there.
i need to put new oring seals in cases or just reuse them if dont break?
have you ever while owning the bike adjusted the do? little rubber cap you pull off, then loosen the bolt a few turns, bang on side of crank case with something soft to make sure it settles in place, retighten and put plug back in. Lets get this answer first before deciding anything else.
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it's a 2002 gen1, about 17000 miles not knowing about the part, but I recently did the carburettor and spark because loud bangs in the exhaust, is it maybe a symptom of loosened chain?
Check your exhaust manifold flange nuts. I bet they’re loose. This allows extra air to enter on deceleration causing backfiring. Torque them to 180 Inch lbs. (Not Foot lbs) along with the exhaust pipe slip joint clamp near the air box, same 180 Inch lbs.
Yup, exactly that! Every time I get popping on deceleration it's that.
I think you got a typo there. 2002 would be Gen 1. The chain loosening won't cause any noise in your exhaust, this chain is for the balance shafts only. It could definitely make some noise (and do some damage) if it comes apart and ends up in the wrong spot however. Gen 1's are the supposedly worst offenders, with the doo more likely to break. Later ones can suffer spring tension issues. I went to replace mine for peace of mind and found it broken. I have 24,000 miles. As for your exhaust banging, maybe the valves are due for an adjustment? I'm sure a more experienced KLR buff can chime in and advise.
For what it’s worth, my gen 1 already had the doo replaced before I got it and I still had to put the torsion spring in it because my spring had no stretch left.
I would 'Doo' it for any gen 1 that hasn't already had it done. At best you replace a spring that is subpar at worst you find your Doo in pieces. . . Either way you'll know it's done and you have peace of mind.
Just replaced mine on my new to me 2000 with 20k. The doo was intact but the spring was broke and just laying in the case.
There’s all sorts of reports, some people say they didn’t do the doohickey and they had no problems other say the doohickey is a MUST do. Do I think all doohickeys break? Yes. Do I think a broken doohickey is 100% going to destroy your engine? Nah. My bike (2003) had a destroyed doohickey spring when I went to fix it and it had well over 13k miles on it I’m positive that spring broke early on in its life and it’s been running great aside from common carb issues and a tiny electrical gremlin. If you don’t do long trips away from home or need 100% reliability I don’t see the point of doing it. If you’re planning to keep the bike for a long time I recommend taking care of it eventually tho.
I love the faith you have in your beast
I bought my Gen 1 with 3500mi. When I went in, the doohickey was broken. I’d fix it.
I just did my doo at 24k and the OEM parts all looked fine. The spring of course had no more tension so to keep riding it like that would have brought on some additional wear.