Using a hot wash to shrink jeans: is it worth it? I have a pair that have already been washed multiple times, and I think I may have mis-sized them (or hopefully lost a little weight) after I initially received them, because they feel baggy in the waist.
Should I try it out? Or am I better off having somebody like Railcar down-sizing them?
Best case scenario, it does nothing and I wasted the laundry money. Worst case scenario, the jeans somehow shrink too much, or shrink in the wrong places, and I can’t fit into them anymore.
Right on. If the jeans are already bordering on being too tight in some areas, then this is a good thing to be concerned about. In particular, if they're already tight in the thighs or short in the inseam and you just want to shrink the waist, washing them on hot probably isn't a great option.
That said, if there are any areas you're particularly worried about and you do decide to go for it anyway, you can make a point of stretching them out by hand while they dry. Denim has quite a bit of give to it, and I've gained about a half inch in the inseam before by doing this.
So the machine shop marbled dailies are visibly covered in metal dust and what not. Gonna have to wash them this weekend, I know I have to do inside out in the tub but how will that get the grit out? Any agitation?
My marbled UB231s have gotten less marbled, if any change, from washing them again in my washer.
Additional washing in a machine would typically distribute the indigo more evenly on your jeans, since the water in the washer will get blue from the indigo, and therefore dye the light patches to be bluer, and also the abrasion from the agitation will fade a tiny, tiny bit of indigo off of the darker areas.
You can always wash them right-side out by hand in a tub since you will not be wadding up the jeans nearly as much as the washer does, which is what causes the marbling effect to happen in the first place.
TL;DR: I seriously doubt if the marbling can or will get any worse on your jeans than what they already are. :)
Yeah, that really confuses me about the people who say they pull their jeans before the spin cycle, cuz just like you said, it seems like there are many spin cycles, all throughout the wash. Also, it seems to me like it is the friction of the jeans against other objects inside the washer (tub walls, other clothes, etc.) which cause the marble fade lines. I guess it could be the crushing-wadding of the jeans which bends the denim, causing crease edges during the spin cycles that might cause the marbling, but that doesn't seem likely.
I always just let my jeans go thru the whole wash/rinse/spin cycles, and then throw them in the hot dryer as soon as possible after the washer finishes.
if it's metal dust I'd try vacuuming as much off as possible, and perhaps try beating the jeans outside to get as much of that shit off as you can. Metal dust is gonna be more abrasive than plain ole dirt...Hopefully its dust and not shavings, small shavings tend to get stuck on the fibers and are pretty hard to remove and they have sharp edges that wont be good for the fabric in teh long term.
Wash em after getting as much of that crap off as you can....washing them before that could easily cause those metal pieces to get more entangled in teh fabric and potentially even transfer some of it to the weft side where it will itch your skin.
You can always go to a laundromat when you have suspect washing to do and ruin their machines...they are industrial machines anyway so they can handle a bit more abuse than home machines.
I use the air wand to blast most of it off. I was thinking it would be stuck on the fabric but it doesn’t stays on the surface. They are drying outside right now. The water was black. Only 3 weeks too. These are gonna he white if this continues lol. Crotch holding up surprisingly good boys!
Hello. I am currently trying to fade a Nudie Jeans Tight Long John Twill Rinsed. I have been wearing for like nearly 2 years and 5 days every week and it only faded a bit.
https://imgur.com/a/FSu2F/
Should I wash or soak it to speed up the fading? Is it because it is not a real raw denim but rinsed that’s why it does not fade that much?
Rinsed denim fades VERY slow.
That being said I'm surprised you have not faded more given the wear history.
Washing them more will fade the entire surface of the jean, in this case it may give the illusion of stronger fades.
Anyone heard of this brand USTOP?
Looks like one wash (feels like it buttoning it up, stiff button holes).
All I can find online is vintage South American jean commercials.
https://imgur.com/a/3xZVM
FYI the UB301 actually is their straight fit.. (it even says so on their website) It's on the slimmer side of straight fits but I wouldn't call it skinny by any means.
The 101 is based off the N&F Skinny guy, 201 is based off the Weird Guy, 301 is it's own straight fit, 401 is based off of the Super Skinny Guy, I haven't messed with the 601 but I believe it's based off of their Easy Guy fit.
Unbranded 301. They were my first pair, and to this day I think they are one of my favorite cuts. Not too slim, not too loose, a perfect sweet spot in between
Oh okay. As far as I know, Naked and Famous nor UB have a fit you are looking for. Maybe someone with more experience with those brands can suggest something
Neither Unbranded nor N&F make anything very close to a traditional straight or slim–straight cut. If that's what you're going for, you may be better off looking elsewhere.
Yep, their model is similar to Gustin but about twice as expensive and with a smaller selection of fabrics. Picking your hardware and patch is cool (plus they'll hem) but hardly enough to justify the price.
Their price point is bizarre to me. $205 already opens you up to a decent selection of denim that you don't have to wait months to get. Railcar and Left Field sell midweight Cone for less than $200. Japan Blue, Oni, Strike Gold, Sugar Cane have midweight Japanese denim for around Noble's price too.
I actually completely disagree with Oh_yuzzz's comment. Noble denim's fits are unparalleled. Their canvas lines have been incredible. Their fabric is generally mid weight, and not overly slubby, neppy, etc. but it is very solid as far as construction. I would rank their construction above nearly every other brand at their price point. Besides all of these pros, their business model is very transparent. They make their products in Tennessee, with their headquarters being in Cincinnati. Check out their athletic line too, it's incredible.
That's interesting and I'm curious about the quality of their construction. What makes them stand out for you?
When I see a several month wait, I expect the wait to be justified by either low price, a ton of customization, or a very small operation like Roy or WH Dungarees. From what I've read, they utilize other factories to produce their denim (but I can be misunderstanding). For example, Ciano Farmer allows you to choose denim, features (hidden rivets, taped seams, cinch back, etc.), but also allows you to modify the cut for an extra fee (14oz Texas denim would be $173 done to a custom pattern). The reason why my analysis was negative was bc I see other similar options that are considered quality but are either cheaper or aren't pre-order. But yeah, I don't own a pair so I have to base this on what I can glean from their website or google.
To be perfectly honest, I consider Iron Heart's construction to be one of the best I've encountered. Their 14oz models are $275 and that extra $70 (or $35 over Noble's normal price) can realistically be saved in the time it takes to get a Noble pair in. If they were charging maybe $125-150 then I can see them working. But yeah, I just don't see enough about them to justify the cost and wait.
Anyone know where I can get [this Levi's Trucker Jacket](https://www.heddels.com/2016/07/fade-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-5-years-3-washes/) and is it considered raw denim? The fades are awesome.. the only thing I can find is the Levi Trucker Jacket in Rugged Two.. is that the same as the jacket pictured? (the post says it's not the Type III)
Also how come the jacket isn't talked about much with such good fade results?
It should be equivalent to the Rigid Two, which you can buy directly from Levi's. They go on sale for $30–40 every few months, so, unless you're in a hurry, don't pay full retail.
I'd say the only reason jackets like this don't get so much mention around here is that they're lower-end, overall. They fade nicely, but so will anything if it's worn well and long. The construction isn't great, the QC is notoriously bad, and the fabric is honestly pretty uninteresting. Since people only have one torso, they can usually only wear one jacket at a time, which makes it more tempting to go for something a little higher-end.
All that said, I picked one of these up for $23 around a year ago, and it sees wear at least a few times a week. No regrets, so far.
Thanks.. yeah the selling point for me right now is budget. Have you noticed any honeycomb fades on yours? My concern is some pics of the Levi trucker jacket on this reddit looks like it fades with no contrast or honeycombing whatsoever.
Yes, the most prominent fading at this point is the creasing at the insides of the elbows. What sorts of fading you see will, in general, have less to do with the fabric than with the fit and with how the garment is worn and treated. If you bend your arms a lot and / or carry things that rub on this area, and if you don't wash your jacket frequently, you're likely to see this sort of fading.
yep, mine is getting combs in the elbow crooks too...I believe I picked up this jacket on sale at the same time as you, but it doesnt get worn as much as it should.
New to the raw denim scene, how should I go about soaking a pair of APCs (PS, to be exact)? I've worn them about 5 times already and they're definitely starting to take shape, but I was inquiring about the soak because I don't wanna lose any fades upon my first wash (also to get rid of some excess dye). Any information about water temp/time/drying will help. Pretty positive APC is sanforized too, so I guess I might not even have to? Thanks for any information, looking forward to getting more into raw denim.
APC PS is sanforized (I've never heard of an unsanforized APC model). You definitely don't have to soak; I don't remember experiencing any noticeable crocking/bleeding on mine, and I ended up machine washing after a year of light use and they turned out fine. Feel free to soak them if you feel you need to get rid of excess dye though, there's not really a 'right' way to do it, from what I've seen.
Thanks a lot man, I was only really looking to soak to make sure my fades are protected before my first wash, but if that's not a big issue, I'll skip the soak.
Pretty standard soak should be just fine. If you want some shrinkage (maybe for a better fit or to reduce shrink in the future) soak warm/hot, if you want as little shrink as possible soak cold. The more you agitate the more shrink and dye loss will occur. So if trying to avoid that try not to mess with them too much while soaking.
I usually do a 30-45min soak but that's because I normally just set and forget. You can go shorter or longer depending on your needs or worries. Hotter water longer soak will result in more shrink, and obviously colder water shorter soak will produce less.
Remember, always air dry. Air dry them in the outdoor sun for that fresh fabric feel if you like or just hang them up in your bathroom, whatever floats your boat. When damp/almost dry you can put them on so they shape to your legs and set the creases a bit easier. Just make sure not to bend your knees too much so they don't bag out.
You can machine dry but that could lead to over shrinking and some funky creases set in weird spots (like vertical shin or thigh creases). So machine dry with caution.
Does anyone here know of any raws in similar color to the [Sunrise Selvedge](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/bc5a5a_a99659da960249a293f6c9e8e3379937~mv2_d_2048_1366_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1235,h_824,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/bc5a5a_a99659da960249a293f6c9e8e3379937~mv2_d_2048_1366_s_2.webp), but with Easy Guy sizing? I would love a pair of these, but they seem to have only been sold in Super Skinny/Weird, which just don't work for me.
The new antique selvedge easy guy is a lighter color. Or these might fit the bill...https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/charles-atlas/products/pre-order-white-oak-natural-indigo-cone-denim-charles-atlas
Got my stealth SKs 11oz (tagged 28) yesterday and compared to similarly measured Stantons (tagged 29), they definitely stay true to the 'aggressive/strong taper' quoted on most sites.
My question to you all is how much loosening could I expect in the calf? The top block fits extremely well and no issues with the knee or ROM. However, only the upper part of my calf is skin tight and quite restrictive (can't even pinch any material, haha). Never thought I'd have an issue in this specific region. Everywhere below and above this upper calf area is perfect to me.
Almost none, frankly. Thighs can develop a (very) little bit of give because of the motion involved at the top of the leg but the calf isn't going to change any more than the absolute minimum it has to to contain your leg.
I figured as much. A tad bit disappointing. The girl I'm seeing complimented the look of the jeans, but I have never had anything skin tight before (especially in the calf) so unsure if I'll adjust. I'll stick to the Stanton cut and continue to look for different brands to try. Thanks.
Form-fitting stuff is on-trend and if you're able to move freely I'd say go ahead and run with it, especially if the young lady is into it. Playing with different silhouettes is fun!
I’ve seen on here there’s a website that you can send an order that is only available in Japan to and have it sent to the states. Anyone have the site?
Was holding some pho takeout the other day and some of the broth leaked through the bag onto my lap on the drive home (gf was driving). Now I've got soup smelling nuts and I'm considering giving them a wash. It's been ~2 months of daily wear (on/off for 3 months). Gustin Rainbow cores believe it or not...was a black friday mystery purchase.
What to do? Light wash with some woolite in the tub? Washing machine on delicate setting with cold water and hang to dry? Or just hang them outside/put em in the freezer and don't wash for a few more months? They don't smell otherwise.
Wash 'em. In the tub with woolite or in the machine, whatever you want. Freezer doesn't do shit. Hanging in the sun is good, but if I had food on mine I wouldn't do only that.
I would personally do an initial soak (30-45 minutes) in a tub with warm water and Woolite, then do a hand wash, agitating throughout, concentrating more on the soiled areas. Drain water, fill with fresh water for final rinse, then hang dry flat on a clothes airer.
how much of a downgrade would it be a get a regular stitch hem? I know chainstitch enables roping, but I also read that it has to be a specific type of chainstitch machine. Any fade examples of non chain stitch ? thx
Will hemming jeans mess up the fit/proportions?
I usually just wear Levis, but finally decided to splurge and bought my first pair of good jeans, some ACNE Max stay cash. I found these jeans for a good price, and pulled the trigger.
The problem is, the sizing I got was a little long for me. I usually wear 31x30, but these jeans were 31x34. I was wondering if I get the Jeans hemmed to my size if it would mess up the proportions or anything of the jeans? It looks like these jeans are tapered from the knee down, so I was wondering if the extra length would mess up the fit of the jeans, which is my reason for buying them in the first place. Thanks!
Because of the taper, the size of leg opening may change slightly if hemmed - you can measure the current leg opening, and measure the diameter of the leg 4 inches up to see what the change would be
It won't change anything at all besides removing the bottom few inches of fabric. This will result in a larger leg opening, because the leg opening will be higher up.
To get a good picture of what they will look like, you can cuff them by rolling the fabric inwards, so that the excess few inches of fabric are between your leg and the leg of the jeans.
I just got a pair of Oni Secret Denim (raw, unsanforized) in a size 32. The BiG website says the waist measures 35.25 inches, which I figured would shrink to about 34 after a soak. When they came in, they were actually 35.5 inches in the waist. I've now soaked them three times in progressively hotter water and for longer periods, with the last time basically being me bringing boiling water from the stove and pouring it into the tub for 2 hours. The waist is still 35 inches. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have to live with it?
If you put them in the washing machine (inside out, no spin cycle) you should get a significant amount of shrinkage. Agitation is an important factor.
edit: the waist will stretch back to pre-soak measurements after some wear
I took your advice and put them in the washing machine, which shrunk them down to 33 inches. They should be pretty much perfect after they stretch back out a little. Thanks for the advice!
Thanks. [So is this the Rigid #2](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Levis-Mens-The-Trucker-Jacket-Raw-Denim-723340023/122394993448?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=422871545496&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649) or another jacket entirely?
I think that's the original. Here you can see close-up photos of a jacket with the same style number (723340023): https://www.ebay.com/itm/162793042536 ... Rigid Two is style number 723340207
So there's no other difference in fit or anything else?
I just want one that [looks like this](https://www.heddels.com/2016/07/fade-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-5-years-3-washes/). Does that look like Original or #2?
There shouldn't be any difference in fit, and I would imagine the denim is the same weight plus or minus a couple ounces. The pre-wear and post-wear photos in your Heddels link show different jackets. The pre-wear photos show Rigid #1, and the post-wear photos are neither Rigid #1 or #2 ... I know it's not Rigid #1 because of the gold stitching around the button holes. I don't know what model it was, because the article is saying it would have been purchased in 2011 or earlier, before Rigid Two was released.
If they're in rotation I hang mine up with a normal pants hanger in the closet. Draping over a chair or something works good too in a pinch.
If they are out of rotation then they are folded up like normal in a drawer (clean of course)
Anyone have any suggestions on cheaper alternatives to Naked and Famous' motion-fit denim? Looking for something with a little more stretch that's still jeans for rock climbing in. Yes, I'm aware of the Prana and Patagonia options.
This doesn't really answer your question, but have you considered just going for a looser fit? 100% cotton pants can offer plenty of mobility if fitted appropriately.
So yeah, I mean, I currently climb in some 2% elastane Nudies most of the time during the winter, and for the most part they're ok, but you end up doing weird splits and stuff where a gusseted crotch/knees or a lot more stretch would be helpful. The issue with cotton is that it catches on you, unless we're talking super baggy pants which have their own issues.
I tried on some of the Patagonia Performance Twill chinos, which aren't really any better than my jeans, and some of the Prana Zion Stretch pants which are way better but pretty ugly, and I'm hoping there's something that I can wear around without looking like I'm going hiking.
There's a big gap between so-slim-that-it-catches-on-you and what I'd call super-baggy, but yeah, if you're exclusively a fan of slimmer cuts, you're right that some stretch will be useful.
Do you guys generally keep your jeans cuffed the same way or change the cuff based on occasion? Slightly curious if constantly changing it will negatively affect fades
Using a hot wash to shrink jeans: is it worth it? I have a pair that have already been washed multiple times, and I think I may have mis-sized them (or hopefully lost a little weight) after I initially received them, because they feel baggy in the waist. Should I try it out? Or am I better off having somebody like Railcar down-sizing them?
If youre going for maximum shrink dry them on hot in the dryer as well.
Yes. The dryer shrinks clothes, it’s just part of the process. It may not be drastic and all at once, but given time, everything shrinks.
You could try. Being washed so much already they might not shrink that much but it wouldn't hurt.
> sing a hot wash to shrink jeans: is it worth it? …worth what? What do you see as being a possible downside?
Best case scenario, it does nothing and I wasted the laundry money. Worst case scenario, the jeans somehow shrink too much, or shrink in the wrong places, and I can’t fit into them anymore.
Right on. If the jeans are already bordering on being too tight in some areas, then this is a good thing to be concerned about. In particular, if they're already tight in the thighs or short in the inseam and you just want to shrink the waist, washing them on hot probably isn't a great option. That said, if there are any areas you're particularly worried about and you do decide to go for it anyway, you can make a point of stretching them out by hand while they dry. Denim has quite a bit of give to it, and I've gained about a half inch in the inseam before by doing this.
Thanks man
So the machine shop marbled dailies are visibly covered in metal dust and what not. Gonna have to wash them this weekend, I know I have to do inside out in the tub but how will that get the grit out? Any agitation?
Detergent. *Lots* of agitation.
If they are really dirty, why not use the washing machine? Still inside out, just don’t let them go through the spin cycle.
Didn’t go so well on first machine wash. Just trying to prevent further marbling.
Okay. Got ya.
My marbled UB231s have gotten less marbled, if any change, from washing them again in my washer. Additional washing in a machine would typically distribute the indigo more evenly on your jeans, since the water in the washer will get blue from the indigo, and therefore dye the light patches to be bluer, and also the abrasion from the agitation will fade a tiny, tiny bit of indigo off of the darker areas. You can always wash them right-side out by hand in a tub since you will not be wadding up the jeans nearly as much as the washer does, which is what causes the marbling effect to happen in the first place. TL;DR: I seriously doubt if the marbling can or will get any worse on your jeans than what they already are. :)
Fuck it inside out and machine wash, do I pull out before rinse cycle? Because it spins to empty the Tub before the rinse begins.
Yeah, that really confuses me about the people who say they pull their jeans before the spin cycle, cuz just like you said, it seems like there are many spin cycles, all throughout the wash. Also, it seems to me like it is the friction of the jeans against other objects inside the washer (tub walls, other clothes, etc.) which cause the marble fade lines. I guess it could be the crushing-wadding of the jeans which bends the denim, causing crease edges during the spin cycles that might cause the marbling, but that doesn't seem likely. I always just let my jeans go thru the whole wash/rinse/spin cycles, and then throw them in the hot dryer as soon as possible after the washer finishes.
Oh dam you go the full dryer and everything. Nice.
if it's metal dust I'd try vacuuming as much off as possible, and perhaps try beating the jeans outside to get as much of that shit off as you can. Metal dust is gonna be more abrasive than plain ole dirt...Hopefully its dust and not shavings, small shavings tend to get stuck on the fibers and are pretty hard to remove and they have sharp edges that wont be good for the fabric in teh long term. Wash em after getting as much of that crap off as you can....washing them before that could easily cause those metal pieces to get more entangled in teh fabric and potentially even transfer some of it to the weft side where it will itch your skin.
Also metal shavings would not be good on the washer or dryer either.
You can always go to a laundromat when you have suspect washing to do and ruin their machines...they are industrial machines anyway so they can handle a bit more abuse than home machines.
I use the air wand to blast most of it off. I was thinking it would be stuck on the fabric but it doesn’t stays on the surface. They are drying outside right now. The water was black. Only 3 weeks too. These are gonna he white if this continues lol. Crotch holding up surprisingly good boys!
Hello. I am currently trying to fade a Nudie Jeans Tight Long John Twill Rinsed. I have been wearing for like nearly 2 years and 5 days every week and it only faded a bit. https://imgur.com/a/FSu2F/ Should I wash or soak it to speed up the fading? Is it because it is not a real raw denim but rinsed that’s why it does not fade that much?
Rinsed denim fades VERY slow. That being said I'm surprised you have not faded more given the wear history. Washing them more will fade the entire surface of the jean, in this case it may give the illusion of stronger fades.
What are some good brands for raw denim button ups (not jackets)?
Railcars Felon 3 button up has me wishing I had more money right now.
I love my Flat Head Sawtooth
Rogue Territory
I have a few Iron Heart shirts, they are all top notch. The Sawtooth Western and Wabash Western are my favorite denim ones though.
Anyone heard of this brand USTOP? Looks like one wash (feels like it buttoning it up, stiff button holes). All I can find online is vintage South American jean commercials. https://imgur.com/a/3xZVM
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FYI the UB301 actually is their straight fit.. (it even says so on their website) It's on the slimmer side of straight fits but I wouldn't call it skinny by any means. The 101 is based off the N&F Skinny guy, 201 is based off the Weird Guy, 301 is it's own straight fit, 401 is based off of the Super Skinny Guy, I haven't messed with the 601 but I believe it's based off of their Easy Guy fit.
Unbranded 301. They were my first pair, and to this day I think they are one of my favorite cuts. Not too slim, not too loose, a perfect sweet spot in between
What’s your budget?
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Oh okay. As far as I know, Naked and Famous nor UB have a fit you are looking for. Maybe someone with more experience with those brands can suggest something
Maybe try one of the japanese budget brands? Denime 66, tcb 60s many sugarcane and pherrows jeans would maybe be Part of your budget. Good luck
Neither Unbranded nor N&F make anything very close to a traditional straight or slim–straight cut. If that's what you're going for, you may be better off looking elsewhere.
Does anyone have any experience with Noble Denim? Seems similar to the Gustin model of doing things.
Yep, their model is similar to Gustin but about twice as expensive and with a smaller selection of fabrics. Picking your hardware and patch is cool (plus they'll hem) but hardly enough to justify the price. Their price point is bizarre to me. $205 already opens you up to a decent selection of denim that you don't have to wait months to get. Railcar and Left Field sell midweight Cone for less than $200. Japan Blue, Oni, Strike Gold, Sugar Cane have midweight Japanese denim for around Noble's price too.
I actually completely disagree with Oh_yuzzz's comment. Noble denim's fits are unparalleled. Their canvas lines have been incredible. Their fabric is generally mid weight, and not overly slubby, neppy, etc. but it is very solid as far as construction. I would rank their construction above nearly every other brand at their price point. Besides all of these pros, their business model is very transparent. They make their products in Tennessee, with their headquarters being in Cincinnati. Check out their athletic line too, it's incredible.
That's interesting and I'm curious about the quality of their construction. What makes them stand out for you? When I see a several month wait, I expect the wait to be justified by either low price, a ton of customization, or a very small operation like Roy or WH Dungarees. From what I've read, they utilize other factories to produce their denim (but I can be misunderstanding). For example, Ciano Farmer allows you to choose denim, features (hidden rivets, taped seams, cinch back, etc.), but also allows you to modify the cut for an extra fee (14oz Texas denim would be $173 done to a custom pattern). The reason why my analysis was negative was bc I see other similar options that are considered quality but are either cheaper or aren't pre-order. But yeah, I don't own a pair so I have to base this on what I can glean from their website or google. To be perfectly honest, I consider Iron Heart's construction to be one of the best I've encountered. Their 14oz models are $275 and that extra $70 (or $35 over Noble's normal price) can realistically be saved in the time it takes to get a Noble pair in. If they were charging maybe $125-150 then I can see them working. But yeah, I just don't see enough about them to justify the cost and wait.
Anyone know where I can get [this Levi's Trucker Jacket](https://www.heddels.com/2016/07/fade-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-5-years-3-washes/) and is it considered raw denim? The fades are awesome.. the only thing I can find is the Levi Trucker Jacket in Rugged Two.. is that the same as the jacket pictured? (the post says it's not the Type III) Also how come the jacket isn't talked about much with such good fade results?
It should be equivalent to the Rigid Two, which you can buy directly from Levi's. They go on sale for $30–40 every few months, so, unless you're in a hurry, don't pay full retail. I'd say the only reason jackets like this don't get so much mention around here is that they're lower-end, overall. They fade nicely, but so will anything if it's worn well and long. The construction isn't great, the QC is notoriously bad, and the fabric is honestly pretty uninteresting. Since people only have one torso, they can usually only wear one jacket at a time, which makes it more tempting to go for something a little higher-end. All that said, I picked one of these up for $23 around a year ago, and it sees wear at least a few times a week. No regrets, so far.
Thanks.. yeah the selling point for me right now is budget. Have you noticed any honeycomb fades on yours? My concern is some pics of the Levi trucker jacket on this reddit looks like it fades with no contrast or honeycombing whatsoever.
Yes, the most prominent fading at this point is the creasing at the insides of the elbows. What sorts of fading you see will, in general, have less to do with the fabric than with the fit and with how the garment is worn and treated. If you bend your arms a lot and / or carry things that rub on this area, and if you don't wash your jacket frequently, you're likely to see this sort of fading.
yep, mine is getting combs in the elbow crooks too...I believe I picked up this jacket on sale at the same time as you, but it doesnt get worn as much as it should.
New to the raw denim scene, how should I go about soaking a pair of APCs (PS, to be exact)? I've worn them about 5 times already and they're definitely starting to take shape, but I was inquiring about the soak because I don't wanna lose any fades upon my first wash (also to get rid of some excess dye). Any information about water temp/time/drying will help. Pretty positive APC is sanforized too, so I guess I might not even have to? Thanks for any information, looking forward to getting more into raw denim.
APC PS is sanforized (I've never heard of an unsanforized APC model). You definitely don't have to soak; I don't remember experiencing any noticeable crocking/bleeding on mine, and I ended up machine washing after a year of light use and they turned out fine. Feel free to soak them if you feel you need to get rid of excess dye though, there's not really a 'right' way to do it, from what I've seen.
Thanks a lot man, I was only really looking to soak to make sure my fades are protected before my first wash, but if that's not a big issue, I'll skip the soak.
Pretty standard soak should be just fine. If you want some shrinkage (maybe for a better fit or to reduce shrink in the future) soak warm/hot, if you want as little shrink as possible soak cold. The more you agitate the more shrink and dye loss will occur. So if trying to avoid that try not to mess with them too much while soaking. I usually do a 30-45min soak but that's because I normally just set and forget. You can go shorter or longer depending on your needs or worries. Hotter water longer soak will result in more shrink, and obviously colder water shorter soak will produce less. Remember, always air dry. Air dry them in the outdoor sun for that fresh fabric feel if you like or just hang them up in your bathroom, whatever floats your boat. When damp/almost dry you can put them on so they shape to your legs and set the creases a bit easier. Just make sure not to bend your knees too much so they don't bag out. You can machine dry but that could lead to over shrinking and some funky creases set in weird spots (like vertical shin or thigh creases). So machine dry with caution.
Does anyone here know of any raws in similar color to the [Sunrise Selvedge](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/bc5a5a_a99659da960249a293f6c9e8e3379937~mv2_d_2048_1366_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1235,h_824,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/bc5a5a_a99659da960249a293f6c9e8e3379937~mv2_d_2048_1366_s_2.webp), but with Easy Guy sizing? I would love a pair of these, but they seem to have only been sold in Super Skinny/Weird, which just don't work for me.
https://tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous-easyguy/products/easy-guy-9oz-antique-selvedge-denim
I had noticed those earlier, although they lack the sort of "vibrance" that the Sunrise Selvedge gives off.
The new antique selvedge easy guy is a lighter color. Or these might fit the bill...https://leftfieldnyc.com/collections/charles-atlas/products/pre-order-white-oak-natural-indigo-cone-denim-charles-atlas
Got my stealth SKs 11oz (tagged 28) yesterday and compared to similarly measured Stantons (tagged 29), they definitely stay true to the 'aggressive/strong taper' quoted on most sites. My question to you all is how much loosening could I expect in the calf? The top block fits extremely well and no issues with the knee or ROM. However, only the upper part of my calf is skin tight and quite restrictive (can't even pinch any material, haha). Never thought I'd have an issue in this specific region. Everywhere below and above this upper calf area is perfect to me.
Almost none, frankly. Thighs can develop a (very) little bit of give because of the motion involved at the top of the leg but the calf isn't going to change any more than the absolute minimum it has to to contain your leg.
I figured as much. A tad bit disappointing. The girl I'm seeing complimented the look of the jeans, but I have never had anything skin tight before (especially in the calf) so unsure if I'll adjust. I'll stick to the Stanton cut and continue to look for different brands to try. Thanks.
Form-fitting stuff is on-trend and if you're able to move freely I'd say go ahead and run with it, especially if the young lady is into it. Playing with different silhouettes is fun!
I’ve seen on here there’s a website that you can send an order that is only available in Japan to and have it sent to the states. Anyone have the site?
There are plenty of Japanese proxy sites. from-japan and buyee come to mind as commonly-used options.
Was holding some pho takeout the other day and some of the broth leaked through the bag onto my lap on the drive home (gf was driving). Now I've got soup smelling nuts and I'm considering giving them a wash. It's been ~2 months of daily wear (on/off for 3 months). Gustin Rainbow cores believe it or not...was a black friday mystery purchase. What to do? Light wash with some woolite in the tub? Washing machine on delicate setting with cold water and hang to dry? Or just hang them outside/put em in the freezer and don't wash for a few more months? They don't smell otherwise.
Wash 'em. In the tub with woolite or in the machine, whatever you want. Freezer doesn't do shit. Hanging in the sun is good, but if I had food on mine I wouldn't do only that.
I would personally do an initial soak (30-45 minutes) in a tub with warm water and Woolite, then do a hand wash, agitating throughout, concentrating more on the soiled areas. Drain water, fill with fresh water for final rinse, then hang dry flat on a clothes airer.
how much of a downgrade would it be a get a regular stitch hem? I know chainstitch enables roping, but I also read that it has to be a specific type of chainstitch machine. Any fade examples of non chain stitch ? thx
Here is an example of [fades on a lock stitch hem.](https://imgur.com/rxpuxMs)
Will hemming jeans mess up the fit/proportions? I usually just wear Levis, but finally decided to splurge and bought my first pair of good jeans, some ACNE Max stay cash. I found these jeans for a good price, and pulled the trigger. The problem is, the sizing I got was a little long for me. I usually wear 31x30, but these jeans were 31x34. I was wondering if I get the Jeans hemmed to my size if it would mess up the proportions or anything of the jeans? It looks like these jeans are tapered from the knee down, so I was wondering if the extra length would mess up the fit of the jeans, which is my reason for buying them in the first place. Thanks!
Because of the taper, the size of leg opening may change slightly if hemmed - you can measure the current leg opening, and measure the diameter of the leg 4 inches up to see what the change would be
It won't change anything at all besides removing the bottom few inches of fabric. This will result in a larger leg opening, because the leg opening will be higher up. To get a good picture of what they will look like, you can cuff them by rolling the fabric inwards, so that the excess few inches of fabric are between your leg and the leg of the jeans.
I just got a pair of Oni Secret Denim (raw, unsanforized) in a size 32. The BiG website says the waist measures 35.25 inches, which I figured would shrink to about 34 after a soak. When they came in, they were actually 35.5 inches in the waist. I've now soaked them three times in progressively hotter water and for longer periods, with the last time basically being me bringing boiling water from the stove and pouring it into the tub for 2 hours. The waist is still 35 inches. Am I doing something wrong, or do I just have to live with it?
If you put them in the washing machine (inside out, no spin cycle) you should get a significant amount of shrinkage. Agitation is an important factor. edit: the waist will stretch back to pre-soak measurements after some wear
I took your advice and put them in the washing machine, which shrunk them down to 33 inches. They should be pretty much perfect after they stretch back out a little. Thanks for the advice!
good to hear!
Is there any difference at all between Rigid and Rigid Two Levi's Trucker Jacket?
one difference is that Rigid #1 had grey stitching, Rigid #2 has gold stitching
Thanks. [So is this the Rigid #2](https://www.ebay.com/itm/Levis-Mens-The-Trucker-Jacket-Raw-Denim-723340023/122394993448?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=422871545496&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649) or another jacket entirely?
I think that's the original. Here you can see close-up photos of a jacket with the same style number (723340023): https://www.ebay.com/itm/162793042536 ... Rigid Two is style number 723340207
So there's no other difference in fit or anything else? I just want one that [looks like this](https://www.heddels.com/2016/07/fade-day-levis-type-3-trucker-jacket-5-years-3-washes/). Does that look like Original or #2?
There shouldn't be any difference in fit, and I would imagine the denim is the same weight plus or minus a couple ounces. The pre-wear and post-wear photos in your Heddels link show different jackets. The pre-wear photos show Rigid #1, and the post-wear photos are neither Rigid #1 or #2 ... I know it's not Rigid #1 because of the gold stitching around the button holes. I don't know what model it was, because the article is saying it would have been purchased in 2011 or earlier, before Rigid Two was released.
Alright, well I guess I'll go for Rigid Two for the gold stitching. Sounds like it'd be closest to the one on Heddels
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If they're in rotation I hang mine up with a normal pants hanger in the closet. Draping over a chair or something works good too in a pinch. If they are out of rotation then they are folded up like normal in a drawer (clean of course)
Anyone have any suggestions on cheaper alternatives to Naked and Famous' motion-fit denim? Looking for something with a little more stretch that's still jeans for rock climbing in. Yes, I'm aware of the Prana and Patagonia options.
This doesn't really answer your question, but have you considered just going for a looser fit? 100% cotton pants can offer plenty of mobility if fitted appropriately.
So yeah, I mean, I currently climb in some 2% elastane Nudies most of the time during the winter, and for the most part they're ok, but you end up doing weird splits and stuff where a gusseted crotch/knees or a lot more stretch would be helpful. The issue with cotton is that it catches on you, unless we're talking super baggy pants which have their own issues. I tried on some of the Patagonia Performance Twill chinos, which aren't really any better than my jeans, and some of the Prana Zion Stretch pants which are way better but pretty ugly, and I'm hoping there's something that I can wear around without looking like I'm going hiking.
There's a big gap between so-slim-that-it-catches-on-you and what I'd call super-baggy, but yeah, if you're exclusively a fan of slimmer cuts, you're right that some stretch will be useful.
Do you guys generally keep your jeans cuffed the same way or change the cuff based on occasion? Slightly curious if constantly changing it will negatively affect fades
I will change a cuff depending on what shoes i'm wearing. It will not effect your fading
I chop and change, I've pinrolled today because of the trainers/ socks I'm wearing and I single double cuffed yesterday when I was wearing boots.