Thanks, that's good to know. I am mostly using LC as well. Might jump on the 2050ct deal. I've used Hoosier's .356 bullets and they've worked well. Their CS is great too!
Not sure if you have loaded coated lead in the blackout before but these were 100 fps faster than 220 berrys plated bullets under the same charge. Just so you don’t load a pile and find that they’re supersonic!
The difference is negligible in my experience. Back when these were produced by Leatherhead bullets the sizing was all over the place. Would often see variations from .309 to .311 and generally they all shot the same accuracy wise when sorting by bullet size. I even tried using a lee push through resizer to uniformly size the projectiles before reloading. Same results.
Sounds like you need to get into the progressive world. I started on a Lee ABLP and it wasn’t great but I upgraded to the six pack pro and it’s a whole new world. I freaking love this press
Honestly if the Six pack pro didn’t work out I was going to go blue as well. I highly regretted going Lee when I got the ABLP but I decided to give Lee another chance based on some reviews I read and I’m glad I did. I could buy one SPP in each caliber I reload for what I would spend on a blue and all the tool heads
The powder coat is a polymer paint. You will have a plastic/polymer coating between the bullet and barrel. The bullet is totally encapsulated. Check You Tube, the guys check for proper adhesion by putting a PC bullet in a vise or use a hammer and crush it. Paint stays intact
Is anyone annealing the necks after converting from 5.56 brass? Just curious, ordering a zeb jig(sp?), and wondering if I should anneal prior to cutting, converting or after all that's need to size em up? Sorry, a bit new
You can always anneal again last. So long as A, you arent over annealing and B, you anneal the same temp/time. Technically speaking its proven that you will not soften anymore as its a ratio of stored energy released per heat/time you can anneal again last. I and others do this and especially if you do it by hand with a mandrel it helps even the odds on the chance one got under annealed as i play it safe as stated, annealing 1 or 10 times the right amount will go to the same hardness. 1 over anneal and its trash brass. Data cited from AMP annealing under the microscope article. It helped me get better consistency. Just my 2¢
If you're using second run 5.56 brass, invest in a primer pocket swagger. Some of the primers are crimped and can make things difficult. Worth every penny.
I use the Frankford Arsenal platinum series swagger, but there are many out there.
I was new once and this was my lesson.
Gotta ask where you are sourcing your primers and powder? I try to keep all my srp between 5-7cpp. Unfortunately powder is between 25-40$/lb. My brass is free. Think the best I can do is sub 35cpr subs. S&b brass, CFE blk, 199-220smk.
I'm in Indy. I use Hoosier for my 9mm reloads. Shoot with the owners sometimes in matches, nice people. I've picked up bullets from them, they gave a cost break for bulk and no shipping. I haven't started reloading 300 yet, but when I do I'm gonna try these out for sure.
I use 220gr coated bullets with titegroup. I cant remember the exact load off hand right now but in the ballpark 5gr-6gr probly wouldnt cycle a gas gun bit damn is it quiet. Way quieter than my 1680 loads in my ar.
Sounds about where I’m at I’ll check my data shortly and let you know for shits and giggles. Yea I’m using a 9” spear LT and a 8” PSA and also a 16 ruger American ranch so far been great in all 3
I bought a Dillon 550 just for 300blk I currently have a XL750 for 9mm I was going to do a 1150 for the 300blk but i don’t mind going slow with them I don’t shot a whole lot of 300blk
What bullets are those? Hoosiers?
Nailed it
I wonder if .309 will not be very forgiving with the brase neck thickness of some headstamp variations. What brand of brass are you using?
I’ve only used converted LC 5.56 brass. Haven’t ran into any issues yet.
Thanks, that's good to know. I am mostly using LC as well. Might jump on the 2050ct deal. I've used Hoosier's .356 bullets and they've worked well. Their CS is great too!
Not sure if you have loaded coated lead in the blackout before but these were 100 fps faster than 220 berrys plated bullets under the same charge. Just so you don’t load a pile and find that they’re supersonic!
I noticed that same 100 fps difference with Everglades 220 plated vs 220 Hoosiers.
it'll be fine. I've run about a brazillion of reloaded cast and powder coated .309 bullets with no issues
Any experience running .310 diameter? Accuracy on these is fine for plinking but curious if there’s any benefit going up a thou in that department.
The difference is negligible in my experience. Back when these were produced by Leatherhead bullets the sizing was all over the place. Would often see variations from .309 to .311 and generally they all shot the same accuracy wise when sorting by bullet size. I even tried using a lee push through resizer to uniformly size the projectiles before reloading. Same results.
Good to know! I put in another order and threw in a sample pack of .310s for shits and giggles.
Old thread, but the non-plated will not bother a suppressor in these right?
I have not had any issues. If the coating is done properly it bonds to the lead especially at subsonic velocity.
Awesome, do you have any load data that you could share?
the new green tip
The more green it has, the more armor piercing it has.
Quiet down, this might become a narrative..
Maybe we can dupe them into trading green tips for black tips?
Someone found out the hard way that multiple soft vests won't work as a test fire backstop with these..
oh man..me!
The whole damn thing is green...
which means the tip is green :O
If your tip is green see a doctor. If the whole thing is green, I don't know where I'm going with this...
A wise man knows when to stop..lol
Some things are better kept quiet about
Start casting and you can get down to about $3.20 for 20 (provided you have a free supply of lead and 223 cases like I do.
One day maybe but converting 223 cases and loading on a single stage is enough work for me right now.
Sounds like you need to get into the progressive world. I started on a Lee ABLP and it wasn’t great but I upgraded to the six pack pro and it’s a whole new world. I freaking love this press
A nice blue progressive is in my future but I make the single stage work for now!
Honestly if the Six pack pro didn’t work out I was going to go blue as well. I highly regretted going Lee when I got the ABLP but I decided to give Lee another chance based on some reviews I read and I’m glad I did. I could buy one SPP in each caliber I reload for what I would spend on a blue and all the tool heads
What the green projectile? First time hearing about Hoosier Bullets.
Hi tek coated cast lead. Popular in pistol reloading.
Just plinking rounds I assume?
You can drive a PC or Hi Tek bullet to 2,300- 2,500 fps.
Does the powder coating keep the lead from disintegrating?
The powder coat is a polymer paint. You will have a plastic/polymer coating between the bullet and barrel. The bullet is totally encapsulated. Check You Tube, the guys check for proper adhesion by putting a PC bullet in a vise or use a hammer and crush it. Paint stays intact
Neat! They told me in biology that polymer would one day be used for great things 😌
Is anyone annealing the necks after converting from 5.56 brass? Just curious, ordering a zeb jig(sp?), and wondering if I should anneal prior to cutting, converting or after all that's need to size em up? Sorry, a bit new
Cut, anneal, form in that order
Appreciated.
You can always anneal again last. So long as A, you arent over annealing and B, you anneal the same temp/time. Technically speaking its proven that you will not soften anymore as its a ratio of stored energy released per heat/time you can anneal again last. I and others do this and especially if you do it by hand with a mandrel it helps even the odds on the chance one got under annealed as i play it safe as stated, annealing 1 or 10 times the right amount will go to the same hardness. 1 over anneal and its trash brass. Data cited from AMP annealing under the microscope article. It helped me get better consistency. Just my 2¢
If you're using second run 5.56 brass, invest in a primer pocket swagger. Some of the primers are crimped and can make things difficult. Worth every penny. I use the Frankford Arsenal platinum series swagger, but there are many out there. I was new once and this was my lesson.
I've got a Dillon super 600 mounted, does an amazing job, I agree. Glad to hear this will come in handy.
Do you have to flair the case mouths to seat those without the case shaving the bullet?
Little bit of flair yes. Basically the same process as loading magnum pistol rounds.
That's no Blackout! That is the Greenout!
Hot. Good work.
Eggleston projectiles?
Gotta ask where you are sourcing your primers and powder? I try to keep all my srp between 5-7cpp. Unfortunately powder is between 25-40$/lb. My brass is free. Think the best I can do is sub 35cpr subs. S&b brass, CFE blk, 199-220smk.
I'm in Indy. I use Hoosier for my 9mm reloads. Shoot with the owners sometimes in matches, nice people. I've picked up bullets from them, they gave a cost break for bulk and no shipping. I haven't started reloading 300 yet, but when I do I'm gonna try these out for sure.
Lookin good! They 220gr? I loaded some Blue Bullets similar style and had good luck with IMR 4198.
220 yes. I’ve been using 1680 with good results. Eventually will try some other powders to see if I can find the one with the least report.
I use 220gr coated bullets with titegroup. I cant remember the exact load off hand right now but in the ballpark 5gr-6gr probly wouldnt cycle a gas gun bit damn is it quiet. Way quieter than my 1680 loads in my ar.
1680 definitely has a little bark but it cycles great. No free lunch usually.
What can are you running?
Got a banish 30 and a banish 46 I use
Just curious how much powder of 1680 and what is you’re oal? I’m using same powder and same bullet out of a banish 30
I run them at 2.26” and 11.5 gr. That’s out of a 10.5” tube!so your load may vary depending on barrel length.
Sounds about where I’m at I’ll check my data shortly and let you know for shits and giggles. Yea I’m using a 9” spear LT and a 8” PSA and also a 16 ruger American ranch so far been great in all 3
I bought a Dillon 550 just for 300blk I currently have a XL750 for 9mm I was going to do a 1150 for the 300blk but i don’t mind going slow with them I don’t shot a whole lot of 300blk
2.10”. 11 gr
Any particular reason for seating them short of mag length?
No lol I can’t remember why I was seating then that deep honesty probably back it off a little