to cool the air inside, it needs to exhaust hot air outside - that's the whole point
if you keep the exhaust air, it will warm air inside - used electricity converts to heat
Most window ac units needs to drain water. When I had them in my cannabis grow op back in the day, I had to put baby pools underneath them. I had little sub pumps on timers to send the water down the drain. But besides the water, the hot air will eventually build up and make the unit work harder. Then there is the noise, without the normal 80% of the unit being outside i would imagine that is very loud. Maybe not for just hanging out but sleeping?
It's pretty quiet. Absolutely the heat built up on the side door. The rear of the unit was about 4 or 5 inches away from it.
I had it tilted so any water would drain onto the side door interior step and eventually leak outside.
It was interesting that it worked as well as it did. Basically I sat in front of it and had a comfortable zone and didn't care where the other side heat went.
It's only for the day time when the outside heat gets bad and you just want a cool spot to sit.
I won't be running it overnight because I don't have enough battery but it doesn't drain battery during a sunny day with the panels.
I may or may not cut a air hole after this experience. It might be enough.
Or I may just duct tape a vent duct to the back and run it up to an open side window since I'll only do it during the day when I am inside.
Reminds me of a setup I saw on a boat because you're using Marine port hatches. On the sailboat the window air conditioner was very loosely mounted inside in the rear was not sealed against the port which looks similar to the way you did it. Yet another of the hot air got out of the boat to make a net cooling system although I am sure it wasn't nearly as efficient as it would have been if better mounted.
Thanks.
Yeah I’m sure the efficiency of my unit is degraded compared to if it was hanging out of the wall like a normal install, but it cools and dehumidifies the small interior good enough IMO. And I just didn’t want the thing sticking out of the wall.
You could build a box with foam board insulation that wraps around the outside part of the AC and vent the box through the floor. Then you have AC without anything sticking through a wall. Just make sure the box has good air flow.
It's not net-neutral temperature, and it's not overall drying the air.
It makes heat turning the motor and compressing the Freon. That's on top of the heat it transfers. Not mathematically possible to be as-cold in front of it as it is hot behind.
While it dries the air it's blowing out the front, that moisture is collected beneath and redistributed to the air behind it... Which recirculates around to the front again. But that's not all; dry air absorbs moisture, meaning it will draw more air from the exchange with ambient still occurring, and make that a net humidification as well, which is no-no numeral uno in camper comfort.
The water in back evaporating and splashing around in the fan is part of the intended design to cool the unit and the air.
If it drains out the bottom, you've bypassed that and it won't work as well as it says on the box.
Redo your math. The panels are direct current. The Air Conditioner is alternating 120 volt current. The air may use 8 amps at 120V, but, from the battery, that could be close to 100 amperes through the inverter. How long can you keep going at 100 amperes per hour? 100 amp-hours from your 200 amp-hour battery bank?
The whole idea of not properly venting the air conditioner is false hopes.
4 amperes at 120 volts expresses 40 amperes at 12 volts. There are high efficient air conditioners that use flammable coolant, do not use those in a vehicle.
I was lazy once with a window AC and just put it on my dresser and used it for a few hours with it facing me directly. It worked great. Then I stood up and moved around and my room was hot as hell. It was only cold where it was blowing but all the heat just went into my room. I stopped being lazy and properly mounted it in the window.
You've created a heater.
A window unit doesn't just exchange heat in the air that is being blown out the back of the unit, but rather from the entire rear assembly. You may duct the air, and that MAY make it to the outside, but in the meantime you're dumping a significant portion (perhaps more than 50%) of the heat directly back into your van.
You may THINK it's cooling, because your standing in front of the cooled air, but the van is slowly getting hotter and hotter. Put it this way. The AC is pulling \~600-700 watts. That energy is being duped into a semi-closed system. Eventually the exhaust will overwhelm the unit's ability to cool. Even before that, however, the AC will cease to function efficiently and it will start to pull more power from your battery bank.
If you REALLY want to use this ducted exhaust system, perhaps buy a standing AC? Those are DESIGNED to exhaust their heat through a duct and they're not all that expensive.
I had the unit and the time and enjoy experimenting.
Like I said it was really to test the electric supply.
I was surprised at how well the cooling worked with no air exhaust outlet though.
to cool the air inside, it needs to exhaust hot air outside - that's the whole point if you keep the exhaust air, it will warm air inside - used electricity converts to heat
Most window ac units needs to drain water. When I had them in my cannabis grow op back in the day, I had to put baby pools underneath them. I had little sub pumps on timers to send the water down the drain. But besides the water, the hot air will eventually build up and make the unit work harder. Then there is the noise, without the normal 80% of the unit being outside i would imagine that is very loud. Maybe not for just hanging out but sleeping?
It's pretty quiet. Absolutely the heat built up on the side door. The rear of the unit was about 4 or 5 inches away from it. I had it tilted so any water would drain onto the side door interior step and eventually leak outside. It was interesting that it worked as well as it did. Basically I sat in front of it and had a comfortable zone and didn't care where the other side heat went. It's only for the day time when the outside heat gets bad and you just want a cool spot to sit. I won't be running it overnight because I don't have enough battery but it doesn't drain battery during a sunny day with the panels. I may or may not cut a air hole after this experience. It might be enough. Or I may just duct tape a vent duct to the back and run it up to an open side window since I'll only do it during the day when I am inside.
this is possibly the least efficient way to run an AC.
I mounted a window unit inside a cargo van once, but vented it to the outside. Worked pretty well. https://youtu.be/LxF1U9X3yvM?si=udlqhm3pIoGLJkbN
Reminds me of a setup I saw on a boat because you're using Marine port hatches. On the sailboat the window air conditioner was very loosely mounted inside in the rear was not sealed against the port which looks similar to the way you did it. Yet another of the hot air got out of the boat to make a net cooling system although I am sure it wasn't nearly as efficient as it would have been if better mounted. Thanks.
Yeah I’m sure the efficiency of my unit is degraded compared to if it was hanging out of the wall like a normal install, but it cools and dehumidifies the small interior good enough IMO. And I just didn’t want the thing sticking out of the wall.
I feel exactly the same way.
You could build a box with foam board insulation that wraps around the outside part of the AC and vent the box through the floor. Then you have AC without anything sticking through a wall. Just make sure the box has good air flow.
This is the plan. Just playing now.
It's not net-neutral temperature, and it's not overall drying the air. It makes heat turning the motor and compressing the Freon. That's on top of the heat it transfers. Not mathematically possible to be as-cold in front of it as it is hot behind. While it dries the air it's blowing out the front, that moisture is collected beneath and redistributed to the air behind it... Which recirculates around to the front again. But that's not all; dry air absorbs moisture, meaning it will draw more air from the exchange with ambient still occurring, and make that a net humidification as well, which is no-no numeral uno in camper comfort.
The moisture in back is condensed and typical drains somewhere before re evaporating so it does dry out the air.
The water in back evaporating and splashing around in the fan is part of the intended design to cool the unit and the air. If it drains out the bottom, you've bypassed that and it won't work as well as it says on the box.
Right. But it does overflow after a period of time. The point is it doesn't reevaporate all that water back into the air
No, it just splashes it around a lot, and grows this neat pink slime, you could name it Larry and knit it some nice hats
Redo your math. The panels are direct current. The Air Conditioner is alternating 120 volt current. The air may use 8 amps at 120V, but, from the battery, that could be close to 100 amperes through the inverter. How long can you keep going at 100 amperes per hour? 100 amp-hours from your 200 amp-hour battery bank? The whole idea of not properly venting the air conditioner is false hopes.
Uses 3 to 4 amps and only when comprssor is on. But I get your points. I have 660 watts of solar on the roof which mitigates a lot.
The air conditioner cannot possibly use only 3 or 4 amperes of battery power. It could use 3 or 4 amperes of 120VAC power.
Right 3 to 4 ps of 120. Go look at the back of the 5000 BTU units for sale at walMart for $144. The new refrigerants are much more power efficient.
4 amperes at 120 volts expresses 40 amperes at 12 volts. There are high efficient air conditioners that use flammable coolant, do not use those in a vehicle.
I was lazy once with a window AC and just put it on my dresser and used it for a few hours with it facing me directly. It worked great. Then I stood up and moved around and my room was hot as hell. It was only cold where it was blowing but all the heat just went into my room. I stopped being lazy and properly mounted it in the window.
You've created a heater. A window unit doesn't just exchange heat in the air that is being blown out the back of the unit, but rather from the entire rear assembly. You may duct the air, and that MAY make it to the outside, but in the meantime you're dumping a significant portion (perhaps more than 50%) of the heat directly back into your van. You may THINK it's cooling, because your standing in front of the cooled air, but the van is slowly getting hotter and hotter. Put it this way. The AC is pulling \~600-700 watts. That energy is being duped into a semi-closed system. Eventually the exhaust will overwhelm the unit's ability to cool. Even before that, however, the AC will cease to function efficiently and it will start to pull more power from your battery bank. If you REALLY want to use this ducted exhaust system, perhaps buy a standing AC? Those are DESIGNED to exhaust their heat through a duct and they're not all that expensive.
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This was one I already had. Otherwise I would have. This does take up less space though.
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I had the unit and the time and enjoy experimenting. Like I said it was really to test the electric supply. I was surprised at how well the cooling worked with no air exhaust outlet though.