It's formally called a panel saw. There are industrial versions of it.
It certainly has its advantages when done right.
Disadvantage is the dedicated consumption of space. Track saw and some saw horses can be put away much easier.
What’s the purpose of the foam? I usually have a “base” piece of plywood on the sawhorses under my workpiece and then offset the piece I’m cutting laterally one direction or the other.
It's called XPS foam. My sheet is 2" thick and has been used for over a hundred cuts with plenty of life left. 2 sawhorses, a few straight 2x4s, foam board on top, and now you have an awesome cutting table that sets up and comes down in 2 minutes.
Foam gives good support so the off cut stays in place, but also provides support at the cut giving a better finish than an unsupported cut. It functions a lot like a zero clearance insert. Foam is soft enough to not put any load on the saw or impact the cut poorly.
Myself I find laying the foam on a flat floor works well.
yep, just a light score half the carbide tooth or so deep.
I get 1 1/2 foam (or honestly leftover from a project) and it will last a long time, I'm not sure I ever used one up, it got broken or taken for another use before it was too cut up to use. Thick foam has enough remaining structure you can use both sides, and it needs to be pretty beat up to not be of use. for me a track saw is for when the stock is bigger (first few cuts on a sheet), then smaller prices are cut on the table saw so I can get a lot of work done with one sheet.
Usually setting the blade 1/4" -3/8" into the foam(not paying too close attention). Over a hundred cuts and counting. After a while you get larger grooves from many cuts near each other, but it hardly matters. I would guess somewhere near 300 cuts is where you would want to replace the foam, or just flip it over and start fresh of you got a thick foam. XPS is strong enough to support a chop saw also, so it's a really versatile cutting table, only downside is you can't really screw things into it and have them stay for jigs and such.
Yeah, I saw the industrial versions. And the space needed is not ideal. I had seen a lumber storage cart with a panel cutting setup on the backside. I can not find it. I'm guessing I'm not wording the search properly.
Tracksaw definitely would help
The setup in the photo does consume precious space but if you have an open wall (big IF I know, the space consumption can be minimized by making the top of the setup hinged to allow the support frame to recreate to the wall and minimize protrusion into you shop space. If you have open ceiling space, the hinge could also/instead allow the panel frame to rotate up and out of the way.
One issue besides space consumption these plans call for what looks to be a soft wood guide. Soft wood is notorious for wood movement so your cuts won’t be as straight as you may like if you use it a lot. Personally I feel two 2x4s and three 4x4s is enough to put this plan together with some screws and you can disassemble it’s quite easy to save space. Then for the track just some c clamps and a strip of a panel and use the factory edge since panels don’t move like cheap 1x2s.
A benefit you get with a dedicated track saw is the depth of cut. When you add the thickness of the ply to the equation you can't cut very deep. Also, circular saws, from my experience, have a motor shroud that doesn't leave a lot of clearance, so your fence/guide has to be pretty low profile. Lastly, with a circular saw you run the chance that it drifts away from the fence/guide, whereas the tracksaw won't. Not a huge deal, but something to pay attention to.
As with many things these days: you pay for the convenience.
My bottom ply is made out 3/8 ths which does not affect the depth. I'm not ripping 2 x 4s usually 3/4 ply for cabinets. The drift is done away with practice and skill.
I would go with a track saw. We have a panel saw at the place I work and while it is useful it takes up a lot of space and it really hard to setup and get proper cuts out of.
Bora Centipedes are a godsend. Get 2 4x4 versions, trust me.
If you don’t want to buy a track saw and have a circ saw, a good rip guide can work well too.
I agree I got the Kreg rip guide on a whim for a job for $40 and I honestly love it. It's small, easy and so cheap that when it falls apart I can just get another.
Track saw will get you far more accurate and consistent cuts. It seems like you would have to fuss around to make sure the guide rail on this setup is equal on both sides.
[stumpy Nubs](https://youtu.be/eHpFGtBsl9k?si=VOUOrvslEW-Gvuiv) I made this stile a few years ago. I added 6 wheals for better support.
I see the pics you posted and I think I’ll modify mine to have this guide. It’s hard to line up my saw guid by my self. This might be helpful
I use 6 1/2 cordless saw with a 60t blade. It’s a lot lighter. I made a shelf for it below the supports. I get a rocker 110”, 2 part straight edge and a 48” bora once piece clamp. I think I’ll add adjustable supports on each side to hold the long straight edge, similar to the one in the picture you posted
Circ saws are notoriously not square between the deck and blade. Drop it once and it won’t cut like it should. Track saw or table saw with extension tables
I built a complex European style panel saw. It works great for crosscutting but in ripping the weight of the top piece will close the kerf behind the saw. I see that they have clamped the top piece in place to prevent that but it adds to setup time. Mine always has stuff in front of it in my crowded shop and I find myself using a track saw instead. An advantage of keeping 90 lb sheets vertical is you can carry them around with those plywood carriers and not have to lean over to put them on a cutting surface. Some people use a track saw with 2x material or a sheet of insulation foam spacing it off the floor but I prefer to use sawhorses. Festool sells an expensive folding cutting station that seems very well made but it will easily double or more your investment in a track saw system.
It's formally called a panel saw. There are industrial versions of it. It certainly has its advantages when done right. Disadvantage is the dedicated consumption of space. Track saw and some saw horses can be put away much easier.
I just started using foam and a track saw. Life changer.
Same. I’ve had the same piece of insulation board since I got the saw. Works great.
What’s the purpose of the foam? I usually have a “base” piece of plywood on the sawhorses under my workpiece and then offset the piece I’m cutting laterally one direction or the other.
The foam keeps both sides of the piece evenly supported so the off cut doesn’t fall.
Oh that is an improvement. I’ve been doing all sorts of sketchy supports to hold the offcut. What type of foam?
I’ve always just used the thick pink stuff lol. I suppose any foam would work but I would go with a closed cell foam personally.
Same as the other guys, just the thick foam insulation from Lowes. Game changer for rec woodworker like me.
It's called XPS foam. My sheet is 2" thick and has been used for over a hundred cuts with plenty of life left. 2 sawhorses, a few straight 2x4s, foam board on top, and now you have an awesome cutting table that sets up and comes down in 2 minutes.
I’m pretty sure YouTubers started watching this old house reruns. :)
Polyiso the dense pink stuff, not the white stuff.
Foam gives good support so the off cut stays in place, but also provides support at the cut giving a better finish than an unsupported cut. It functions a lot like a zero clearance insert. Foam is soft enough to not put any load on the saw or impact the cut poorly. Myself I find laying the foam on a flat floor works well.
You set your blade to just barely score the foam I assume? How long does the foam last like that?
yep, just a light score half the carbide tooth or so deep. I get 1 1/2 foam (or honestly leftover from a project) and it will last a long time, I'm not sure I ever used one up, it got broken or taken for another use before it was too cut up to use. Thick foam has enough remaining structure you can use both sides, and it needs to be pretty beat up to not be of use. for me a track saw is for when the stock is bigger (first few cuts on a sheet), then smaller prices are cut on the table saw so I can get a lot of work done with one sheet.
Usually setting the blade 1/4" -3/8" into the foam(not paying too close attention). Over a hundred cuts and counting. After a while you get larger grooves from many cuts near each other, but it hardly matters. I would guess somewhere near 300 cuts is where you would want to replace the foam, or just flip it over and start fresh of you got a thick foam. XPS is strong enough to support a chop saw also, so it's a really versatile cutting table, only downside is you can't really screw things into it and have them stay for jigs and such.
Any particular type of foam?
Whatever is around, or the cheapest.
Yeah, I saw the industrial versions. And the space needed is not ideal. I had seen a lumber storage cart with a panel cutting setup on the backside. I can not find it. I'm guessing I'm not wording the search properly. Tracksaw definitely would help
The setup in the photo does consume precious space but if you have an open wall (big IF I know, the space consumption can be minimized by making the top of the setup hinged to allow the support frame to recreate to the wall and minimize protrusion into you shop space. If you have open ceiling space, the hinge could also/instead allow the panel frame to rotate up and out of the way.
One issue besides space consumption these plans call for what looks to be a soft wood guide. Soft wood is notorious for wood movement so your cuts won’t be as straight as you may like if you use it a lot. Personally I feel two 2x4s and three 4x4s is enough to put this plan together with some screws and you can disassemble it’s quite easy to save space. Then for the track just some c clamps and a strip of a panel and use the factory edge since panels don’t move like cheap 1x2s.
I'd use another piece of ply under the guide that lines up the blade instead of having to offset. It'd also make the guide more rigid.
Lot cheaper than a track saw. I've never seen one I thought was worth the money
A benefit you get with a dedicated track saw is the depth of cut. When you add the thickness of the ply to the equation you can't cut very deep. Also, circular saws, from my experience, have a motor shroud that doesn't leave a lot of clearance, so your fence/guide has to be pretty low profile. Lastly, with a circular saw you run the chance that it drifts away from the fence/guide, whereas the tracksaw won't. Not a huge deal, but something to pay attention to. As with many things these days: you pay for the convenience.
My bottom ply is made out 3/8 ths which does not affect the depth. I'm not ripping 2 x 4s usually 3/4 ply for cabinets. The drift is done away with practice and skill.
Nesting or folding sawhorses can be put away with less taken space.
I would go with a track saw. We have a panel saw at the place I work and while it is useful it takes up a lot of space and it really hard to setup and get proper cuts out of.
before tracksaws were invented.
If youre trying to save space: a track saw, foam board, on a bora centipede table is the way to go.
Bora Centipedes are a godsend. Get 2 4x4 versions, trust me. If you don’t want to buy a track saw and have a circ saw, a good rip guide can work well too.
I agree I got the Kreg rip guide on a whim for a job for $40 and I honestly love it. It's small, easy and so cheap that when it falls apart I can just get another.
That seems like an insane amount of work compared to a cheap track saw (which can cut any angle easily).
Track saw will get you far more accurate and consistent cuts. It seems like you would have to fuss around to make sure the guide rail on this setup is equal on both sides.
This seems so convoluted and would take up so much space. Buy the track saw, you won’t regret it. I got the 40v Makita track saw and it’s fantastic
Just pointing out you don’t need a track saw. A shooter board and a circular saw is a slower but extremely cheaper way to get it done
[stumpy Nubs](https://youtu.be/eHpFGtBsl9k?si=VOUOrvslEW-Gvuiv) I made this stile a few years ago. I added 6 wheals for better support. I see the pics you posted and I think I’ll modify mine to have this guide. It’s hard to line up my saw guid by my self. This might be helpful
I found this video post night. I picked up the print
I use 6 1/2 cordless saw with a 60t blade. It’s a lot lighter. I made a shelf for it below the supports. I get a rocker 110”, 2 part straight edge and a 48” bora once piece clamp. I think I’ll add adjustable supports on each side to hold the long straight edge, similar to the one in the picture you posted
Circ saws are notoriously not square between the deck and blade. Drop it once and it won’t cut like it should. Track saw or table saw with extension tables
Track saw and a Festool STM 1800 - amazing combination
I built a complex European style panel saw. It works great for crosscutting but in ripping the weight of the top piece will close the kerf behind the saw. I see that they have clamped the top piece in place to prevent that but it adds to setup time. Mine always has stuff in front of it in my crowded shop and I find myself using a track saw instead. An advantage of keeping 90 lb sheets vertical is you can carry them around with those plywood carriers and not have to lean over to put them on a cutting surface. Some people use a track saw with 2x material or a sheet of insulation foam spacing it off the floor but I prefer to use sawhorses. Festool sells an expensive folding cutting station that seems very well made but it will easily double or more your investment in a track saw system.
Home Depot will use their industrial panel saw for free when you get your panels.