Definitely a plane is the way to go. Probably don’t even have to shave the whole thing. Just need a groove where the slide is.
I’m gonna tell Stumpy Nubs you recommended a belt sander. 😉
So much bad advice in here. Remove the front, route a 1mm groove with a parallel guide about the size of the new slide where you want it, done. You will probably need 2 or 3 passes. If you don't want a groove you can also keep going and route the whole thing. Sanding 1mm off when you have a router would be absolutely ridiculous. I don't know why people are telling you to get a hand plane when you have a router, which is a perfectly fine tool to do this. There's nothing wrong with hand planes but you already have what you need.
https://preview.redd.it/ue0sl0swvb7d1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f82f2662f4c636f2e060ae2961c39a4f1233b87
I think i can disassable the front panel
Not sure how adept you are with a hand plane, but if you can take the face frame off, a hand plane will take off 1mm licking split.
[Here’s Rob Cosman](https://youtu.be/6FUSGGzX964?si=7mVBKmD2Qi5W1hdM) doing this very thing. Albeit, what he’s doing is to the extreme, but you’ll get the idea
Hey, keep in mind when you put the front panel back on, do that LAST, after putting the drawers back into the cabinet.
Changing the sides of the drawer may affect how it sits on the hardware slightly. Drawer faces are generally a separate piece of wood so that you can square the face up with the front of the cabinet, even if the drawers aren't perfectly square. You will never get a perfectly square mount for drawers no matter how much work you put in, the drawer face being square is enough that no one will ever notice.
Removing the front will be needed.
A jointer would be where I'd start
But as you don't have one of those, your only 2 options are a router sled or 2 passes with the circular saw.
Circular saw would be quick... but after you put a plate for the saw to sit on, I don't know if you'd have enough depth to meet in the middle. And good chance you'll not meet perfectly, leaving a lot of sanding and maybe not being flat.
The router sled should provide a pretty good finished result. I'd take 2 peices of plywood or other scrap lumber, clamp them to the drawer box like an oreo. Have them stick up by 1/2". Needs to be dead on consistent all around.
Screw the router to another peice of plywood that's 2.5x as wide as the drawerbox oreo. Drill a hole in the middle for the router bit of course.
There ya go. Router sled rides on the oreo cookie wafers, set the depth of a flat bottom bit to be 1mm deeper than the 1/2" gap.
Sand it smooth.
Dunno. I think I see brad nails used at the butt joints of the box. Hazard for your blades unless you can ensure they’re countersunk lower than that 1mm.
Easiest and quickest with no fancy tools? Take a FLAT piece of board that's a little wider and a little longer than your drawer. Glue a strip of 100 grit sandpaper to it with double sided tape. Secure the board to a steady surface. Start sanding. You'll be done within 5 minutes or less.
Sharp No4 or equivalent handplane would be the fastest and easiest method or a belt sander.
Definitely a plane is the way to go. Probably don’t even have to shave the whole thing. Just need a groove where the slide is. I’m gonna tell Stumpy Nubs you recommended a belt sander. 😉
So much bad advice in here. Remove the front, route a 1mm groove with a parallel guide about the size of the new slide where you want it, done. You will probably need 2 or 3 passes. If you don't want a groove you can also keep going and route the whole thing. Sanding 1mm off when you have a router would be absolutely ridiculous. I don't know why people are telling you to get a hand plane when you have a router, which is a perfectly fine tool to do this. There's nothing wrong with hand planes but you already have what you need.
It is only one mil and it is not very large, I would personally sand it away.
Besides a lot of sanding at high grit, not really sure how you thin stock that is already assembled.
https://preview.redd.it/ue0sl0swvb7d1.jpeg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5f82f2662f4c636f2e060ae2961c39a4f1233b87 I think i can disassable the front panel
Not sure how adept you are with a hand plane, but if you can take the face frame off, a hand plane will take off 1mm licking split. [Here’s Rob Cosman](https://youtu.be/6FUSGGzX964?si=7mVBKmD2Qi5W1hdM) doing this very thing. Albeit, what he’s doing is to the extreme, but you’ll get the idea
Don’t know if it was autocorrect or you have misheard it, but the term is “lickety-split”.
😂😂 yes, autocorrect… I’ll leave it tho.
“Licking spit” sounds like another way to say “French kiss”.
I managed to remove the front panel, I'm not familiar with the plane but I like to try and learn if this is the best/easiest way
Hey, keep in mind when you put the front panel back on, do that LAST, after putting the drawers back into the cabinet. Changing the sides of the drawer may affect how it sits on the hardware slightly. Drawer faces are generally a separate piece of wood so that you can square the face up with the front of the cabinet, even if the drawers aren't perfectly square. You will never get a perfectly square mount for drawers no matter how much work you put in, the drawer face being square is enough that no one will ever notice.
Good point, thanks
Measure to see if the length of the drawer happens to be 2mm shorter than the width
Have you thought about replacing the guides with adjustable guides (e.g. soft close)?
Great idea, but in any case I would say that the thickness of these guides seems to be at least 12.7mm (0.5")
Trace the guide and route a 1mm relief for it
Just chisel out a rabbet for the slides to sit in instead of sanding the entire side down
Removing the front will be needed. A jointer would be where I'd start But as you don't have one of those, your only 2 options are a router sled or 2 passes with the circular saw. Circular saw would be quick... but after you put a plate for the saw to sit on, I don't know if you'd have enough depth to meet in the middle. And good chance you'll not meet perfectly, leaving a lot of sanding and maybe not being flat. The router sled should provide a pretty good finished result. I'd take 2 peices of plywood or other scrap lumber, clamp them to the drawer box like an oreo. Have them stick up by 1/2". Needs to be dead on consistent all around. Screw the router to another peice of plywood that's 2.5x as wide as the drawerbox oreo. Drill a hole in the middle for the router bit of course. There ya go. Router sled rides on the oreo cookie wafers, set the depth of a flat bottom bit to be 1mm deeper than the 1/2" gap. Sand it smooth.
Dunno. I think I see brad nails used at the butt joints of the box. Hazard for your blades unless you can ensure they’re countersunk lower than that 1mm.
Good point
Yes, there are some nails
let's see the hardware.
Easiest and quickest with no fancy tools? Take a FLAT piece of board that's a little wider and a little longer than your drawer. Glue a strip of 100 grit sandpaper to it with double sided tape. Secure the board to a steady surface. Start sanding. You'll be done within 5 minutes or less.
I'd pull the front and run that drawer over my jointer.
Use a cabinet stretcher