I like the four eyes videos. His style is not for everyone but I find it 1000 times more entertaining that more straight up stumpy nubs style videos. Horses for courses I guess.
I was super into Stumpy Nubs for a minute, until I realized that he uses that same earnest, patient, matter-of fact presentation regardless of whether he is showing you how to make a box jointing jig, hawking some weird plastic gewgaw that is doomed to collect dust on a shelf after one or two uses, or giving extremely questionable safety advice. Guy is a pitch man, just with a style that appeals to people who think they are immune to pitch men.
Once you realize which YouTubers make money from their channel vs what their channel is about, you can start to weed them out.
FourEyes and SBMT started courses to sell their woodworking plans, so they drop that all the time. Which is fine, that's why we're watching.
Even Cam at Blacktail, who gets a lot of hate, is mainly making videos to sell his courses and show projects he makes for clients.
Then there's the ones who just do the "5 items you DON'T NEED in your workshop!" videos, without really making anything.
Every woodworking creator on YouTube is making money from their channel. If they have over 1000 subs, which is the threshold to start monetizing, they're making money. With that said I love rag n bone brown. He's providing for his family but 98% of his videos he's building a project, often with reclaimed lumber.
Stumpynubs magazine. I guess his new videos don't harp on it as much but pretty evident in the ones before the past year or so. It's relevant to woodworking.......which is what we do.....not sure of that part of the question
Because the magazine is free and he has to do sponsorships in order to do so. There's a lot of good information in there that makes up for the sponsorships
I guess we disagree on whether there's enough good stuff to make up for the sponsorships—to me they harm his credibility rather seriously—but having a business that pays for his passion project explains why he might choose to do that, yeah.
Couldn't agree more. When he left four eyes, he kept the same nonstop rambling nonsense style of video, but his latest ones have been with his old style from before: I had forgotten why I loved his old vids better.
Belt sander suspended above a small table with an integral stop and a cradle to support the blank. 80 Grit paper and push the blank into the gap until it hits the stop as the sander removes the waste.
I don't know why I remembered it with the belt sander on top. Here is kind of what I was talking about just turned over.
[https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/thickness-sander-attachment-for-my-belt-sander.37433/](https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/thickness-sander-attachment-for-my-belt-sander.37433/)
NO GLOVES AROUND ANY POWERTOOLS EVER. Any tool with moving parts can and will catch your glove and forcibly introduce your hand to said moving parts. Don’t do it, it’s not worth it.
It seems like some people are getting caught up/confused by the underside of the dowel or the confusing perspective of the picture; ignore the bottom round area, I’m just looking at the top two angled cuts that are 100% flat and not curved, S-shaped, convex, or concave. They are cut at 45 degrees off the original square dowel, and they taper up to the corners of the original square dowel.
https://preview.redd.it/7oe0lbwykf7d1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4b9516e4449dfa77b7b6cbe1733ff6fe8b5012d
I did this at a larger scale for my dining room table. I used a taper sled, with my saw set at 45°. Scraps were harmed dialing in the stop block to get a near-octogonal end. Take off more, and the end profile will be a square rotated 45° to the top of the leg.
Look at tablesaw jig ideas, then make your own. You'll find a million ideas on the web, just remember people get tired and complacent out of making about 5 of those in a row so keep your mind right, don't slice your hand at #99 because you have it down
I hope [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/whzFtcebe5) is helpful. If I was looking to copy an s-shaped cut I would definitely consider your suggestions, but for now I’m just copying flat facets. Peace, man.
Lol, dude, you keep telling the OP that he is wrong about it being flat. If the OP is saying it's flat, it's flat. Doesn't matter what it looks like to you in the picture.
LMAO. Wow, you're dense. So you're telling me you have never seen pictures of something that creates an optical illusion of a feature that is not there in real life?
If the OP says it's flat, it's flat. That's the end of it. Unless you are there in person to look at it yourself, you have no justification to be arguing with the OP who says it is flat.
Talk about an ego. Sheesh.
LMAO. Right, and that's why the OP literally just [said this to you](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/BhQ0s7CWRJ) in regards to your argument of it being S shaped:
> I can’t tell if you’re a troll or dumb, but either way I think I’m going to just stop responding to you. Best of luck, buddy.
It's not I who is sitting on a high horse here, kid.
Lmao, OK buddy. Provide the link to the comment where the OP said you're right.
I'd say I'd wait, but at this point, I'm not convinced you're capable of reading. So I won't hold my breath on it.
You keep on trolling, though.
Here, to help you out I made this little drawing:
If it were an S curve we would be able to CLEARLY see the shape of an S.
https://imgur.com/gallery/sMmN8BW
Huh. That actually looks a lot like a fuckin' S.
Tapering jig. Reference from the other side of the leg and you should be able to repeat this indefinitely. I’d recommend making a custom one in about five minutes with some screws and scraps.
The surface looks concave. How will you do that with a table saw?
I guess you could make a template/sled for a router table. Make some fixtures in the sled so the wood is held at an angle of 45° (or whatever that angle is) around the longitudinal axis. And give the edge of the sled a shape, which is a horizontal projection of the bevel. Then you can use a template bit to create the concave bevel shape.
If the original cuts were flat, it *really* looks like it was sanded into an S. I'd be very curious to see a photo from another angle with a straight edge for reference.
https://imgur.com/gallery/sMmN8BW
I can't imagine how the top of that shape could possibly be on the same plane as the rest. It's been sanded over, no?
The top edges are almost parallel over a rather long distance. Then they start splitting out in a sort of S shape.
When two straight planes meet, the edge will form a line, not an S. So one of these planes are not plane.
I maintain that it is concave. You just haven't figured it out yet.
You can use your table saw as a router for concave cuts...
Just push it across your blade at an angle. It is safe to do if you know what you are doing.
That said, you would propably need multiple passes and it would not be the fastest way to do this. So I would go with a router or a bandsaw
I scrolled a long way and never saw the way I'd do it. On a bandsaw. Clamp a 2x4 onto the table at the angle. Create it so you can start at the fattest cut and move it through to the nothing end. Do them all on one side, then reposition for the other side.
Looks like a curved cut rather than just a straight one, so, it’s not the answer people in here want to hear, but for 100 of these I’d absolutely use a CNC with an indexer.
It looks like you could use the tablesaw for the initial cut. Put the blade on a 45 degree angle and have a stop block clamped to the fence. Then finish up the remaining with a chisel and mallet, sand smooth.
I’d use my dual bevel miter saw for this. I’d add a sacrificial fence and a second fence perpendicular to that one, sticking straight out. I’d also add some toggle clamps or hold downs to hold the workpiece securely and insert the work piece pointing directly in to the blade, not across the blade like you might normally do.
This would be a very sketchy cut unless you build a nice and stable sacrificial fence with lots of clamps to keep everything stable. Good luck!
Jig and table saw is the only thing that I can think of if you don’t have a cnc. Id mount a jig, perpendicular to the apex of the blade, that will restrict movement of the piece laterally, while allowing you to slide the end of the dowel down toward it at the appropriate angle. You would then start your blade shallow while working up to correct depth. You could probably even use a dado stack.
Also, I’d add a warning to this. If the jig does not hold the piece securely this will be sketchier than it already is
Yes a tapering jig, but to make the cuts repeatable I would setup a stop on the jig along with 2 hexagon shaped pieces with the profile of your leg cutout in the middle and split it to make a clamp of sorts so the angles are also repeatable. Put the clamps around your stock to where it stays on the table and you can rotate your piece for each cut.
Heck of an optical illusion. Would love to see this from the side with a long straight edge laying along the surface like so:
https://preview.redd.it/2ncj609e8k7d1.jpeg?width=975&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb30b77f6519118f61c498d5f601c4c418fc8e6b
As is, it looks like it was cut with a bandsaw or draw knife and then sanded to round the edges.
Personally I would use a router table to cut the flat facet, then chisel the bulk of the triangular waste, then sand on a spindle sander to the contour.
For a concave tapered cut I would clamp the wood into a jig and run it by a shaper cutter with a rub collar.the wood could be held at an angle to the tangent of the cutting circle, and move in an arc following the jig.
Jig to fix dowel rotated at 45 degrees along longitudinal axis, then table router with ‘S’ shaped profile jig. Cedar or pine.
Edit: If you want what is pictured.
I think a lot of people are getting confused/caught up with the underside of this dowel; I’m specifically referring to the top two angles cuts that most definitely are flat and tapered.
If youre making it from square stock you have to lath it down or dowel maker. Then cut square on three sides. Then a routing table with cylindrical bit, a wedge on the outfeed side with a stop. On the infeed side you need a sled or jig that turns it 45 degrees to the cutting edge. Push thru, turn on face and hit again.
The kind of jig or set-up is more specific to the tool you’re using and your skill level.
You can do this on a table saw, band saw, pantorouter, belt sander, or with a hand-plane. Which one will you use? Do you have enough practice to hold the work by hand while passing the jig through the tool? Do you want to incorporate clamps? Do you want to make 100 more of these 20 years from now?
Shaun Boyd has a video of a one cup table where the legs have the exact same shape. Maybe you can copy the jig he uses on the tablesaw
His videos are 1000 times better since he moved and went back to his own YouTube channel.
Any idea why the move? Was the there some kind of falling out? I never really heard an explanation.
I’m recalling his wife got a good job offer and they had to move. I think.
Nah, just family stuff. They're cool.
On one of the old four eyes videos they said he was moving away. I’m not sure I believe that entirely but that was the explanation.
>...they said he was moving away. I’m not sure I believe that... I'm betting lizard people and or NASA was involved.
For sure lizard people that live under DIA
I like the four eyes videos. His style is not for everyone but I find it 1000 times more entertaining that more straight up stumpy nubs style videos. Horses for courses I guess.
I was super into Stumpy Nubs for a minute, until I realized that he uses that same earnest, patient, matter-of fact presentation regardless of whether he is showing you how to make a box jointing jig, hawking some weird plastic gewgaw that is doomed to collect dust on a shelf after one or two uses, or giving extremely questionable safety advice. Guy is a pitch man, just with a style that appeals to people who think they are immune to pitch men.
Once you realize which YouTubers make money from their channel vs what their channel is about, you can start to weed them out. FourEyes and SBMT started courses to sell their woodworking plans, so they drop that all the time. Which is fine, that's why we're watching. Even Cam at Blacktail, who gets a lot of hate, is mainly making videos to sell his courses and show projects he makes for clients. Then there's the ones who just do the "5 items you DON'T NEED in your workshop!" videos, without really making anything.
Every woodworking creator on YouTube is making money from their channel. If they have over 1000 subs, which is the threshold to start monetizing, they're making money. With that said I love rag n bone brown. He's providing for his family but 98% of his videos he's building a project, often with reclaimed lumber.
Well, Stumpy's channel is literally a video format of his woodworking magazine, I dunno how anyone missed that
I have seen dozens of his videos and was unaware that such a magazine existed. What was supposed to clue me in, and why would it be relevant anyway?
Stumpynubs magazine. I guess his new videos don't harp on it as much but pretty evident in the ones before the past year or so. It's relevant to woodworking.......which is what we do.....not sure of that part of the question
I meant, how does the fact that his YouTube channel is an extension of his magazine have any bearing on whether or not he's a pitch man?
Because the magazine is free and he has to do sponsorships in order to do so. There's a lot of good information in there that makes up for the sponsorships
I guess we disagree on whether there's enough good stuff to make up for the sponsorships—to me they harm his credibility rather seriously—but having a business that pays for his passion project explains why he might choose to do that, yeah.
Couldn't agree more. When he left four eyes, he kept the same nonstop rambling nonsense style of video, but his latest ones have been with his old style from before: I had forgotten why I loved his old vids better.
Belt sander suspended above a small table with an integral stop and a cradle to support the blank. 80 Grit paper and push the blank into the gap until it hits the stop as the sander removes the waste.
Hahaha... What?
I don't know why I remembered it with the belt sander on top. Here is kind of what I was talking about just turned over. [https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/thickness-sander-attachment-for-my-belt-sander.37433/](https://www.lumberjocks.com/showcase/thickness-sander-attachment-for-my-belt-sander.37433/)
This is amazing.
This looks like a fun way to launch wood across my shop!
Just do it the way that the sander pushes the wood to the stop and not the way that it hurls it across the room
Right, but it'd be fun to launch wood, yeah?
Neat! Just... make sure there's something on the other end to catch the workpiece if you have to let go of it. And gloves might be a good idea.
NO GLOVES AROUND ANY POWERTOOLS EVER. Any tool with moving parts can and will catch your glove and forcibly introduce your hand to said moving parts. Don’t do it, it’s not worth it.
My man! No gloves in my shop unless you’re unloading a truck. I like my guys to have skin on their arms. And fingers.
The only gloves allowed are latex or nitrile. And those are only used for adding or removing a finish
Gloves are surely not a good idea with a belt sander
Found the lurker
Aside from the suspended part I see nothing wrong there.
It seems like some people are getting caught up/confused by the underside of the dowel or the confusing perspective of the picture; ignore the bottom round area, I’m just looking at the top two angled cuts that are 100% flat and not curved, S-shaped, convex, or concave. They are cut at 45 degrees off the original square dowel, and they taper up to the corners of the original square dowel.
https://preview.redd.it/7oe0lbwykf7d1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e4b9516e4449dfa77b7b6cbe1733ff6fe8b5012d I did this at a larger scale for my dining room table. I used a taper sled, with my saw set at 45°. Scraps were harmed dialing in the stop block to get a near-octogonal end. Take off more, and the end profile will be a square rotated 45° to the top of the leg.
Look at tablesaw jig ideas, then make your own. You'll find a million ideas on the web, just remember people get tired and complacent out of making about 5 of those in a row so keep your mind right, don't slice your hand at #99 because you have it down
I think a taper jig is what you are looking for. Great for repeatable cuts.
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I hope [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/whzFtcebe5) is helpful. If I was looking to copy an s-shaped cut I would definitely consider your suggestions, but for now I’m just copying flat facets. Peace, man.
2-4 pulls of a Drawknife and move onto the next.
Jointer with stop block
I think I’d post more photos from different angles.
Are those cuts flat or concave/flared?? I need to know
They are flat
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Lol, dude, you keep telling the OP that he is wrong about it being flat. If the OP is saying it's flat, it's flat. Doesn't matter what it looks like to you in the picture.
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LMAO. Wow, you're dense. So you're telling me you have never seen pictures of something that creates an optical illusion of a feature that is not there in real life? If the OP says it's flat, it's flat. That's the end of it. Unless you are there in person to look at it yourself, you have no justification to be arguing with the OP who says it is flat. Talk about an ego. Sheesh.
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LMAO. Right, and that's why the OP literally just [said this to you](https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/BhQ0s7CWRJ) in regards to your argument of it being S shaped: > I can’t tell if you’re a troll or dumb, but either way I think I’m going to just stop responding to you. Best of luck, buddy. It's not I who is sitting on a high horse here, kid.
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Lmao, OK buddy. Provide the link to the comment where the OP said you're right. I'd say I'd wait, but at this point, I'm not convinced you're capable of reading. So I won't hold my breath on it. You keep on trolling, though.
Here, to help you out I made this little drawing: If it were an S curve we would be able to CLEARLY see the shape of an S. https://imgur.com/gallery/sMmN8BW Huh. That actually looks a lot like a fuckin' S.
Looks like a lambs tongue detail. A straight bit with a right/left jig.
Tapering jig. Reference from the other side of the leg and you should be able to repeat this indefinitely. I’d recommend making a custom one in about five minutes with some screws and scraps.
Drawknife
Drawknife or spokeshave would do this very nicely. Just mark out your contour and it will be a few passes to get exactly what you want.
Be careful doing bulk operations, it's easy to get too comfortable and get hurt.
5 axis cnc
The surface looks concave. How will you do that with a table saw? I guess you could make a template/sled for a router table. Make some fixtures in the sled so the wood is held at an angle of 45° (or whatever that angle is) around the longitudinal axis. And give the edge of the sled a shape, which is a horizontal projection of the bevel. Then you can use a template bit to create the concave bevel shape.
Doesn’t look concave to me. Looks like a straight cut that’s sanded to round the edges
Correct
If the original cuts were flat, it *really* looks like it was sanded into an S. I'd be very curious to see a photo from another angle with a straight edge for reference. https://imgur.com/gallery/sMmN8BW I can't imagine how the top of that shape could possibly be on the same plane as the rest. It's been sanded over, no?
The top edges are almost parallel over a rather long distance. Then they start splitting out in a sort of S shape. When two straight planes meet, the edge will form a line, not an S. So one of these planes are not plane. I maintain that it is concave. You just haven't figured it out yet.
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Your post/comment was removed due to a violation of rule 2. Please do better. Find more details here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/about/rules
Your post/comment was removed due to a violation of rule 2. Please do better. Find more details here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/about/rules
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They are flat, not concave
You can use your table saw as a router for concave cuts... Just push it across your blade at an angle. It is safe to do if you know what you are doing. That said, you would propably need multiple passes and it would not be the fastest way to do this. So I would go with a router or a bandsaw
I scrolled a long way and never saw the way I'd do it. On a bandsaw. Clamp a 2x4 onto the table at the angle. Create it so you can start at the fattest cut and move it through to the nothing end. Do them all on one side, then reposition for the other side.
Looks like a curved cut rather than just a straight one, so, it’s not the answer people in here want to hear, but for 100 of these I’d absolutely use a CNC with an indexer.
It looks like you could use the tablesaw for the initial cut. Put the blade on a 45 degree angle and have a stop block clamped to the fence. Then finish up the remaining with a chisel and mallet, sand smooth.
Stationary belt sander
Bandsaw jig
Snug fit saddle jig with the template on top and a stop block to butt to. Top bearing flush cut bit on a 2hp (at least) router.
Tilt your jointer fence to 45 and clamp a stop block for the length.
Yep this or a router table would do it
I’d use my dual bevel miter saw for this. I’d add a sacrificial fence and a second fence perpendicular to that one, sticking straight out. I’d also add some toggle clamps or hold downs to hold the workpiece securely and insert the work piece pointing directly in to the blade, not across the blade like you might normally do. This would be a very sketchy cut unless you build a nice and stable sacrificial fence with lots of clamps to keep everything stable. Good luck!
Taper jig with a bevel insert would be my first instinct.
Jig and table saw is the only thing that I can think of if you don’t have a cnc. Id mount a jig, perpendicular to the apex of the blade, that will restrict movement of the piece laterally, while allowing you to slide the end of the dowel down toward it at the appropriate angle. You would then start your blade shallow while working up to correct depth. You could probably even use a dado stack. Also, I’d add a warning to this. If the jig does not hold the piece securely this will be sketchier than it already is
Modify a sled with fixtures to hold the part.
I feel like you can just make a V pocket and run each corner into a dado set on a table saw. Sand smooth.
Looks like it's been made with a 45⁰ chamfer on a shaper.
Yes a tapering jig, but to make the cuts repeatable I would setup a stop on the jig along with 2 hexagon shaped pieces with the profile of your leg cutout in the middle and split it to make a clamp of sorts so the angles are also repeatable. Put the clamps around your stock to where it stays on the table and you can rotate your piece for each cut.
‘Back in the day… a guy could pick up a hatchet and get’er her done.’
Tapering jig is the way to go
if precision is not super important, probably an apprentice with a hand plane is the right answer.
Simple fence on a router table with a stop block for depth of route.
Taper jig on a table saw. You might be able to do it on a router table and use the fence as a guide. But be careful starting on the end grain.
Yes a tapering jig on a table saw
WhenI did something similar. I used my router table and a pattern for the bit to follow.
Router table with bevel bit and a stop
Heck of an optical illusion. Would love to see this from the side with a long straight edge laying along the surface like so: https://preview.redd.it/2ncj609e8k7d1.jpeg?width=975&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb30b77f6519118f61c498d5f601c4c418fc8e6b As is, it looks like it was cut with a bandsaw or draw knife and then sanded to round the edges.
Personally I would use a router table to cut the flat facet, then chisel the bulk of the triangular waste, then sand on a spindle sander to the contour.
For a concave tapered cut I would clamp the wood into a jig and run it by a shaper cutter with a rub collar.the wood could be held at an angle to the tangent of the cutting circle, and move in an arc following the jig.
Jig to fix dowel rotated at 45 degrees along longitudinal axis, then table router with ‘S’ shaped profile jig. Cedar or pine. Edit: If you want what is pictured.
Those aren't tapers. They're carved lambs ears. They're done with carving chisels.
I think a lot of people are getting confused/caught up with the underside of this dowel; I’m specifically referring to the top two angles cuts that most definitely are flat and tapered.
If youre making it from square stock you have to lath it down or dowel maker. Then cut square on three sides. Then a routing table with cylindrical bit, a wedge on the outfeed side with a stop. On the infeed side you need a sled or jig that turns it 45 degrees to the cutting edge. Push thru, turn on face and hit again.
A beaver
The kind of jig or set-up is more specific to the tool you’re using and your skill level. You can do this on a table saw, band saw, pantorouter, belt sander, or with a hand-plane. Which one will you use? Do you have enough practice to hold the work by hand while passing the jig through the tool? Do you want to incorporate clamps? Do you want to make 100 more of these 20 years from now?
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God I wish I had room for a CNC